Daisy Chain 30 amp Receptacles?

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JDAK

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Does anyone know if daisy chaining a 2nd 30amp 240v receptacle from my oven receptacle for the purpose of brewing would be safe? We would NOT be using both at the same time and there would be a 30 amp GFCI breaker installed on the panel.

Thoughts?
 
Well, it may not be up to code, but I did as much about 3 decades ago, re-purposed a 30amp 3 wire circuit that was for an electric dryer to use for a ~30Kbtu through-wall AC unit back when my wife decided to switch everything to gas :) But in that case I removed the receptacle and capped the box, so there was never a chance of someone inadvertently turning on the dryer while the AC was running. Have never had any problems.

If you do everything right connection-wise so nothing heats up it should be fine, but there will be that potential simultaneous use issue to manage...
 
what about an extension cord? buy two utility plugs, 10-15 feet of power cable (i think that's what they call it at home depot). one male plug, one female plug. impossible to use the same circuit twice.
 
I don't think that switch would work it's for 120 Volts.

If you look at the picture it says 120V-277VAC....That should be good no?

what about an extension cord? buy two utility plugs, 10-15 feet of power cable (i think that's what they call it at home depot). one male plug, one female plug. impossible to use the same circuit twice.

True, but then I have to reach under my stove and unplug it and plug the other thing in....it's dirty under there! Also that is way too elegant a solution for potential busy work in these times of isolation!
 
Does anyone know if daisy chaining a 2nd 30amp 240v receptacle from my oven receptacle for the purpose of brewing would be safe? We would NOT be using both at the same time and there would be a 30 amp GFCI breaker installed on the panel.

Thoughts?

in general, no limit to the amount of 30 amp receptacles on a single circuit, you could have a hundred if you wanted to. the onerous falls on the user to not overload the circuit. there are a few general rules like no single piece of equipment plugged in can draw more than 24 amps and certain types of equipment are goverend by other rules but in general, not a problem to have multiple receptacles.
 
If you look at the picture it says 120V-277VAC....That should be good no?



True, but then I have to reach under my stove and unplug it and plug the other thing in....it's dirty under there! Also that is way too elegant a solution for potential busy work in these times of isolation!
Interesting, I think you are correct then. One of the reviewers used it for two dryers as well.

What size circuit is your stove on right now?
 
in general, no limit to the amount of 30 amp receptacles on a single circuit, you could have a hundred if you wanted to. the onerous falls on the user to not overload the circuit.
I agree with this. Think about your general purpose outlets in your home. Multiple receptacles on a circuit and all can be used at the same time but still governed by the breaker. (as in the total load. ) Lots of farm/home shops several outlets for welders to be used in different areas for example. Now with that said I don't have a copy of the Nat. Elect. Code to cite from.
Cheers,:mug:
Joel B.
 
Come to think of it, I ran a 4-wire 40A circuit for my MIG rig with an outlet in the garage (right below the load center) and another in my work shop ~50 wire feet away. Looks totally legit - and I guess it might be :)

Cheers!
 
Ok. I have the following components lined up.

Leviton 1288 Switch

Document-34280-Wiring Diagram.jpg

Leviton L14-30R
Document-34533-Wiring Diagram.jpg

Leviton 278-S00 Dryer Outlet
712LjKuzQ3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg

I have a pretty good idea how to wire this all up but just wondering if someone can help put my mind at ease and sort me out with some fancy colored lines? Again, just looking to switch from using one receptacle or the other (on-off-on).

Any help is much appreciated!
 
Yes, you can wire multiple receptacles to a single breaker, as long as the breaker is sized at or lower than the outlet ratings and wire gauge. If you try to run both loads, the breaker will trip before any damage will be done to the wiring - which is the breaker's intended purpose.

It is critical to ensure that the wire gauge is large enough, which for a 30A 240V circuit generally means 10-3 AWG for copper or 8-3 AWG for aluminum. There is also the Voltage drop calculation for the wire length, but it's unlikely that you would have an issue with this sort of simple addition.
 
Thought I'd mention one thing before you get started and that is to keep in mind your electrical code rules for your location. You linked earlier to amazon Canada and I am not at all familiar with your codes. I think here in the US, the National Electric Code (NEC) would call for a dedicated line for an electric stove. Sometimes there's a caveat as well for appliances that the line be wired according to the manufacturer specifications. If you own the home, down the road you may sell it and if it is not up to code you will more than likely need to replace. Maybe with the switch your plan might qualify as dedicated too. Depending on how regulated your town is, maybe broach the subject with the code inspector or a licensed electrician. Another reason I mention this is that I was somewhat surprised that the amperage was only 30 for your existing stove. I'm just a DIY homeowner but when I replaced my wiring to the kitchen, it seemed like 50 amps was the standard size for the stove branch line. That's probably meant to be conservative, maybe it's the self-cleaning function on many stoves that needs this size. Again, as a homeowner, consider what might replace your current unit when it breaks.

That being said, this is the first time I have seen that type of switch mentioned. Seems like a potential solution to a common problem, particularly if it was a dryer line.
 
Thought I'd mention one thing before you get started and that is to keep in mind your electrical code rules for your location. You linked earlier to amazon Canada and I am not at all familiar with your codes. I think here in the US, the National Electric Code (NEC) would call for a dedicated line for an electric stove. Sometimes there's a caveat as well for appliances that the line be wired according to the manufacturer specifications. If you own the home, down the road you may sell it and if it is not up to code you will more than likely need to replace. Maybe with the switch your plan might qualify as dedicated too. Depending on how regulated your town is, maybe broach the subject with the code inspector or a licensed electrician. Another reason I mention this is that I was somewhat surprised that the amperage was only 30 for your existing stove. I'm just a DIY homeowner but when I replaced my wiring to the kitchen, it seemed like 50 amps was the standard size for the stove branch line. That's probably meant to be conservative, maybe it's the self-cleaning function on many stoves that needs this size. Again, as a homeowner, consider what might replace your current unit when it breaks.

That being said, this is the first time I have seen that type of switch mentioned. Seems like a potential solution to a common problem, particularly if it was a dryer line.

My home is fairly old. Built 1970s and updated early 2000s (before we bought it). Early enough that the kitchen receptacles near the sink are not GFCI outlets and are wired as split receptacle outlets that cannot be wired into a GFCI unless turned into 2 gang outlets.....as I understand it. So either the GFCI code wasn't in place when the remodel was done or they didn't have permits.

In any case I think your advice is the way to go the longer I think about it. $80 service call should answer all my questions and maybe come up with some answers I was not expecting. Money well spent if it prevents problems down the road. I would however like to have the idea fully formulated to explain to the electrician when they arrive.
 
My home is fairly old. Built 1970s and updated early 2000s (before we bought it). Early enough that the kitchen receptacles near the sink are not GFCI outlets and are wired as split receptacle outlets that cannot be wired into a GFCI unless turned into 2 gang outlets.....as I understand it. So either the GFCI code wasn't in place when the remodel was done or they didn't have permits.

In any case I think your advice is the way to go the longer I think about it. $80 service call should answer all my questions and maybe come up with some answers I was not expecting. Money well spent if it prevents problems down the road. I would however like to have the idea fully formulated to explain to the electrician when they arrive.
My perspective for these issues is filtered by I have a house that needed all the wiring replaced (1940s) and an unfinished basement. I have a newer panel now and access to a lot of the house, only the 2nd floor was hard to get to for lines. So I have room to work. If there is room in the electric panel, a new line might not be that much either, but depends on what it has to run through to get to where you want it. Also depends on your skill level, available tools, and comfort as far as cost to you. I personally try to keep all my branch circuits simple and conservatively in code. Particularly anything working with 240V. It was easy for me to run a new line for my brew stand from the panel (basement) to the garage and the joists were parallel for most of the run.

A lot of places have codes too where if you modify the branch circuit, you have to modify the whole circuit. Adding a box and a switch would qualify, so you might be needing a new line anyway. The less that turns up on the home inspection report, the more money you'll get in the eventual sale. Buyers use home inspection flags to push down offering prices. Plus you have to fix it and it's stressful.

If not an electrician, the code officer can be helpful too and free. Fine to ask here too, there's a lot of knowledgeable people here.
 
Ok. I have the following components lined up.

Leviton 1288 Switch

View attachment 684364
Leviton L14-30R
View attachment 684365
Leviton 278-S00 Dryer Outlet
View attachment 684366

I have a pretty good idea how to wire this all up but just wondering if someone can help put my mind at ease and sort me out with some fancy colored lines? Again, just looking to switch from using one receptacle or the other (on-off-on).

Any help is much appreciated!

from your panel, let's call line 1 black and line 2 red (the two hot 240v legs). so black from source panel goes to terminal L-1 on the switch and then black from A-1 to first receptacle, black from B-1 to second receptacle. red from source panel goes to terminal L-2 on the switch and then red from A-2 to first receptacle, red from B-2 to second receptacle. the neutral (white) from source panel goes into the switch box but doesn't connect to the switch. run white from each receptacle to the switch and wire-nut together with the white going to your source panel. ground (green) is similar as white but in the switch box, connect ground to the ground terminal on the switch as well.

as you can tell, there are going to be a lot of #10 conductors inside the switch box, a stud-depth single gang box may likely not be big enough so keep that in mind.

in reference to code, this is an interesting one. it could be argued that with the switch, you can never have both receptacles energized at the same time so are there really multiple receptacles on this circuit? i would argue no.
 
I was thinking the same @itsnotrequired in regard to the code, exceptions might exist. Commercial/industrial situations are probably normal, it's just not a switch common to most homes. Kind of why I mention the inspector. It could be helpful to have them look at it and sign off maybe even. They might just say it's absolutely fine.
 
from your panel, let's call line 1 black and line 2 red (the two hot 240v legs). so black from source panel goes to terminal L-1 on the switch and then black from A-1 to first receptacle, black from B-1 to second receptacle. red from source panel goes to terminal L-2 on the switch and then red from A-2 to first receptacle, red from B-2 to second receptacle. the neutral (white) from source panel goes into the switch box but doesn't connect to the switch. run white from each receptacle to the switch and wire-nut together with the white going to your source panel. ground (green) is similar as white but in the switch box, connect ground to the ground terminal on the switch as well.

Thanks for the info. Based on your description, how does this look?
Diagram01.jpg


Or because my brain has to see this too....

Diagram02.jpg


Thank you Microsoft Paint!
 
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My house already has 2 14-30's on the same circuit. Anyone tried running a B80 using 2 14-30's on the same circuit? It requires 2, 6-20's but I believe the elements are only 13 amps, and you can adjust them down lower. 26 amps total is 86% load for a 14-30. There is an 80% rule for constant current load (Like charging a car). 13 amps is over this limit at 86%, but I don't know it would be considered constant current...

Looking into charging solutions for my car, there is a product called a Dryer Buddy, that will allow you to only toggle one outlet at a time like the OP wants.

It's against code for an electrician to run more than one terminal on a circuit used for charging a car, so you might double check if you can do that for an appliance like a stove. Seems to be ok for Dryers though... weird.
https://www.hunker.com/13414122/size-of-wire-circuit-breaker-for-electric-stove" Wiring an outlet for an electric stove isn't the same as wiring standard outlets, because along with the water heater, furnace and central air system, the stove is a high-demand appliance that runs on 240-volt power. "

Maybe the dryer buddy would make it ok though I'm not 100%.
 
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