Customising Coopers IPA

Bonnakij · Mar 15, 2015

Hi everyone

So I'm fairly new to brewing, but have done a few extract brews and a few experiments using different sugars and adding fruits and berries to the beers (with varying results).

I am now trying for a Coopers IPA, which I would like to make as good as I possibly can. Though I realize this is an individual preference I would like to hear what you guys think of what I've thought of so far and whether you have any suggestions to changes I should make.

I have never done any extra hopping to brews before, and thought I would give it a go this turn around.

This is how my planned recipe looks so far:

1 Can (1.7 Kg) Coopers IPA
1.5 Kg Extra pale malt extract
300 grams light dry malt
200 grams dextrose

12 grams Goldings 10 minute boil
15 grams Cascade 3 minute boil
15 grams Galaxy dry hopping at 5 days

And then leave in the primary fermenter for about 4 weeks without racking to secondary.

Does anyone have any thoughts about this or any changes i should be making?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Laszlo · Mar 15, 2015

I did a quick calculation on Brewmate and these fermentables should yield around 1.060 OG in 5 gallons (19 liters or so). At this gravity I would put more hops in. You won't get much of the bitterness but the aroma we like in hoppy beers. You will improve the beer for sure.

Bonnakij · Mar 15, 2015

Thanks for the quick reply! I'm doing a 23 liter batch, so i guess that's not too much different?

Perhaps double the amount of hop addition on the different steps? I don't know the hop characteristics of the Coopers IPA, but I've heard the bitterness is quite sufficient. Wouldn't mind a nice hop aroma and flavour though and I've heard good things about citra. Perhaps 12 g Godlings and 15 g citra at 10 minutes, 15 g galaxy and 15 g cascade at 3 minutes and 15 g cascade and 15 g galaxy in the dry hop?

unionrdr · Mar 15, 2015

I'd add an ounce of golding @ 15 minutes, an ounce of cascade @ 10 minutes & dry hop the galaxy when FG is reached for 7 days. Always wait till the beer is at FG & settled out clear or slightly misty before dry hopping. otherwise, the hop oils will coat the yeast, etc that are settling out & go to the bottom. Also, add the Cooper's can @ flame out while the wort is still boiling hot. Never boil pre-hopped extract or the flavor/aroma additions start turning into bittering. And since pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F, flame out or late extract additions work fine.

Bonnakij · Mar 18, 2015

Thanks again! I do have another question though. Would it be possible to make a hop tea to add to the batch at a later stage if I find out that I would like more hop flavour? Say boil 15 g of goldings for 15 minutes and 15 g of cascade for 10 minutes in about a cup of water and then add that to the brew later on in the fermentation?

The brew is now in the fermenter, and I have encountered another problem. The tap is leaking... Would getting another fermenter tomorrow and pouring it in that one cause any potential problems?

unionrdr · Mar 18, 2015

Maybe try to tighten the spigot? Another fermenter is never a bad thing. But in this case, it'd have to be still fermenting to keep from oxidizing it.

Bonnakij · Mar 18, 2015

Yeah. I've tried tightening it before with no success. I forgot about the leak since it's been quite a while since the last batch and now I have the brew dripping over the floor... Might just get another fermenter tomorrow (and a new spigot)... And perhaps ingredients for a second batch as the air temperature here has been higher than expected and the temperature of the wort refused to go down in hours. Ended up putting some ice in and pitching the yeast at 34 degrees Celsius and I'm worried that'll end up ruining the brew. Wrapped the fermenter in some wet towels to try to cool it quicker, but I don't think it'll do much with 30 degrees in the air. I thought it was supposed to be winter (or less summer) by now...