Custom Spike TC eBIAB Build- stovetop plus 120v element

[trav77]

Here's the mash recirculation arm I'm planning on trying out.

How did the LocLine sparge ring work out for you when recirculating during the mash? Any issues with errant bits of grain/husk clogging it? Or does your bag do a good enough job of filtering that this is not an issue?

It looks in your update like you went back to a SS tube for recirc...

 

[trav77]

Ah... just noticed that this was already asked/answered. Thanks!

 

[SchankHaus]

Hi, I have a very similar set up and I wanted to know what you were doing to keep the bag off of the element, if you have started heating during mash. Are you depending on binder clips or do you have a false bottom sitting above the element?

 

[jmrybak]

Hi, I have a very similar set up and I wanted to know what you were doing to keep the bag off of the element, if you have started heating during mash. Are you depending on binder clips or do you have a false bottom sitting above the element?

So I am using the binder clips to hold the bag up. This minimizes the bag from pressing down on the element, but I'm certain it doesn't totally prevent it. Especially with the grain pressing down. I don't have a false bottom. I do preheat to the initial strike temp (with near full volume ~7g), add grain, let it sit and soak for 5- 10 min after initial mixing, then recirculate with my whirlpool arm which returns about 2" above the element running on 120v for ULWD. Additionally, while the element is holding my mash temp (extremely well), it's only intermittently on at partial power with my EZBoil. I have done a few step mashes and will help stir during this time, but not constantly. To date I have about 10 batches through with up to about 18 lbs of grain including a batch of 100% wheat malt with 3 steps (Grodziskie). Not the slightest sign of an issue.

Add some pictures of your setup if you can! Love to see it.

 

[SchankHaus]

The Brewery

Thanks! I have a whirlpool fitting bottom and top but wasn't sure if I was going for a mesh bag or basket from Arbor Fab or what. I still need to get a 3rd elbow and I may just get the normal one and throw a silicone hose on it instead of the length of pipe you have on yours.

 

[bisforbrew]

for a system like this, would you guys suggest in line temp probe or in kettle?

 

[jmrybak]

I personally use an in the kettle probe position. I like this set up because it gives you a usable temp even when you aren't recirculating.

 

[SchankHaus]

for a system like this, would you guys suggest in line temp probe or in kettle?

Probe in Kettle. The In-line option is good for retrofit setups where you already have a kettle, don't want to add another NPT or TC fitting, and are ok with running the pump the entire time. If you're building or updating I would put it in the kettle.

 

[h22lude]

Going to bring back a semi old thread. This is basically the same exact set up I have been starting to build. Right now I have a Brew Boss using a kettle I made. Everything is weldless with threads. I just ordered a 1.5" TC element. I will be ordering a TC dip tube and whirlpool arm from NorCal. I also use Loc Line right now. I'll be using my current kettle for a little while until I figure out exactly what fittings I want Spike to install for me.

Have you been using the whirlpool arm as the mash recirculating arm? Wouldn't the wort on top not be part of the circulation and start to cool down a little? I'm sure some moves down but if the in and out are low, I'd think most of the recirculating is happening in the bottom half of the kettle.

 

[trav77]

Have you been using the whirlpool arm as the mash recirculating arm? Wouldn't the wort on top not be part of the circulation and start to cool down a little? I'm sure some moves down but if the in and out are low, I'd think most of the recirculating is happening in the bottom half of the kettle.

Most of these systems recirculate back into the top of the mash somehow. Some have a recirculation port placed high on the kettle, others recirc through the lid.

My system uses a weldless fitting in the lid that connects to a locline recirc ring. Works great. The thread is below if it helps. N.B. I've recently switched from the SS mesh basket to a wilser bag. No issues with flow and getting much better efficiency.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596834

 

[h22lude]

Most of these systems recirculate back into the top of the mash somehow. Some have a recirculation port placed high on the kettle, others recirc through the lid.

My system uses a weldless fitting in the lid that connects to a locline recirc ring. Works great. The thread is below if it helps. N.B. I've recently switched from the SS mesh basket to a wilser bag. No issues with flow and getting much better efficiency.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596834

My current system recirculates from the lid using a locline too. I was curious what OP is using now after a few months with the kettle. I'm going to get one very similar. I want the whirlpool arm TC near the top rim. I don't want anything on the lid so I'll be using the whirlpool port for my locline...I think

 

[jmrybak]

My current system recirculates from the lid using a locline too. I was curious what OP is using now after a few months with the kettle. I'm going to get one very similar. I want the whirlpool arm TC near the top rim. I don't want anything on the lid so I'll be using the whirlpool port for my locline...I think

Hey all, I now have more than a dozen brews through the system and couldn't be happier.

I have abandoned use of the locline for mashing, and use this only in CIP applications now. For mash recirc, I am much happier using the whirlpool arm as I have pictured before. This has led to good movement/ recirc, stable temps with my brausupply controller running on 120v, and no problems with flow or air getting trapped under the brew bag (which I had with the locline). Plus the whirlpool arm is much easier to clean and sanitize. Worth noting, I use near full volume mash water (~7g) so I have a thin mash. Even with this I get good turbulence at the surface of the mash, and just occasionally stir when I feel like doing something haha. No temperature regulation/ stratification problems have been noted, and I do keep a Thermapen handy.

My efficiency has been better than before, ranging between 72 and 80% depending on OG/ grain bill. I have also had not even the slightest sign of scorching on the bag (no guard here), and this includes when I have made multi- step mashes and high gravity brews.

 

[jmrybak]

Hey all, just thought I'd share an update on the system. Several more brews completed and no problems with scorching. In fact, I have recently brewed my Piwo Grodziskie which utilizes multiple prolonged steps (30min at 100F, up to 125F over 20min then hold 30min, up to 158F over 20min then hold for 45min, up to 170F over 10min then hold 10min). Not only did this brew not scorch, it turned out well enough to place against all wood aged and smoked beers in the regional round of NHC.

Overall the mash efficiency seems to hang between 70 and 75% dependent on the grainbill/ target OG.

Still strongly recommend the set-up.

 

[bisforbrew]

hey jmrybak,

I've been following this thread for almost a year now, but can't see the pics anymore. I was highly interested in getting a spike kettle built in the same manner since I don't have much space. The pics would help me describe to them what i would want. Much appreciated if you can get them back up. Or if you have your custom order sheet, that would most def help.

- BIsForBrew

 

[Werdup]

Following for pics

 

[jmrybak]

deleted

 

[jmrybak]

Link to photo album for those who have been asking. Sorry Photobucket no longer hosts images for imbedding in posts for free.

 

[jmrybak]

Here is the design sheet for exact port placement as well, in case it helps.

 

[schmeek]

Hey I really like the setup and am considering doing something similar. I was originally looking at the Unibrau system but it seems like this setup would be great quality and more economical. Would you mind sharing how much you invested in this? Also, have you tried heating/boiling with only the element and no help from the stove? I have 20A going to my kitchen and am wondering if I go with the 5500w element if that would suffice without the need for the stove. I have been told by several people that it won’t be enough, but it seems like nobody has any complaints using the grainfather or unibrau which only use 120V elements? Is there something I am missing that these pre-fab units do that is different than a system like yours? Thanks for any advice you might have!

 

[jmrybak]

Hey I really like the setup and am considering doing something similar. I was originally looking at the Unibrau system but it seems like this setup would be great quality and more economical. Would you mind sharing how much you invested in this? Also, have you tried heating/boiling with only the element and no help from the stove? I have 20A going to my kitchen and am wondering if I go with the 5500w element if that would suffice without the need for the stove. I have been told by several people that it won’t be enough, but it seems like nobody has any complaints using the grainfather or unibrau which only use 120V elements? Is there something I am missing that these pre-fab units do that is different than a system like yours? Thanks for any advice you might have!

Apologies if this is a bit brief/ direct:

I would never buy the Unibrau system. I have one of their controllers, and the build quality is low. Their kettles look cheap to me, and that pump appears to be a $30ish dollar knock off from eBay.

Dozens of brews in, I love my system and if I was doing it again I'd build something like this:

Spike custom kettle with 4 TC ports- $320ish

Auberins EZBoil controller $370

Blichmann Riptide pump $200

TC 5500w element $75

Brewbag $25

Then connect everything with SS fittings as needed

In the end you'd have a much higher quality kettle with TC port that would allow your system to evolve in the future, a control box with a very user friendly controller, a fantastic pump with strong output, a TC head, and much easier cleaning, a solid element, and a simple BIAB solution.

You cannot operate a system like this with full volume boils on just 120v and expect a strong boil. You could always add a 120v induction burner under the kettle if you have a second 120v circuit and don't want to use your stove.

 

[schmeek]

Thanks for the info, that was exactly what I was looking for! I might just see how big of a boil I get with the element and add induction later if necessary. I only do 3.5-4 gal batches so it might work out as is.
That controller is quite expensive, I was looking at the inkbird PID controller for $100 on Amazon, any thoughts on that one?
I like the idea of TC ports, but they seem a bit bulky. I was thinking of doing NPT fittings for the the drain valve and whirlpool ports with QD connectors. Any reason to go with TC all around other than consistency? Do the NPT ports make the kettle difficult to clean?

 

[jmrybak]

I would say while TC are certainly not required, they seem to make my life much easier. Easier to clean, quicker on and off. Order from spike today for 25% off!!

I would not cheap out on the controller. Inkbird has been hit or miss in my experience and the EZBoil is simply great to work with.

 

[Bobby_M]

Apologies if this is a bit brief/ direct:

I would never buy the Unibrau system. I have one of their controllers, and the build quality is low. Their kettles look cheap to me, and that pump appears to be a $30ish dollar knock off from eBay.

Dozens of brews in, I love my system and if I was doing it again I'd build something like this:

Spike custom kettle with 4 TC ports- $320ish

Auberins EZBoil controller $370

Blichmann Riptide pump $200

TC 5500w element $75

Brewbag $25

Then connect everything with SS fittings as needed

In the end you'd have a much higher quality kettle with TC port that would allow your system to evolve in the future, a control box with a very user friendly controller, a fantastic pump with strong output, a TC head, and much easier cleaning, a solid element, and a simple BIAB solution.

You cannot operate a system like this with full volume boils on just 120v and expect a strong boil. You could always add a 120v induction burner under the kettle if you have a second 120v circuit and don't want to use your stove.

That auber controller is for a max of 20 amps on 120v. Their $450 Cube would work with 5500w elements. The riptide pump is a fair bit overpowered for a 5 gallon BIAB system. I much prefer a more compact direct port mount option. The Spike kettle is nice and all but four TC ports for a compact BIAB rig? To each his own, but something like the BrewBuilt 10g pot with one TC port, NPT drain, INCLUDING the TC element for only about $310.

 

[SheriffWhiteChocolate]

What was the angle of the whirlpool return cut at?