Current wisdom - just leave it in the primary bucket, rack into bottling bucket?

[minmaxx77]

I use bottling bucket to prime but
I have never transfered during fermentation into secondary vessel. Even with the fruit or whatever flavour addition. I just add fruit in a hop bag into my FV when its close to the FG.

I have spigots on all my FV and once tried filling from there. I wanted to make side by side comparison. Did ~10 bottles wich i primed with random old table sugar. Just used sanitized funnel and spoon. Filled from FV spigot and remaining beer were transfered into bottling bucket on top of sugar solution and filled bottles as usually. I did not taste any differneces or no noticable oxidation on neither one. (2 were undercarbed wich we can assume was user error)

On oxidation definitely give this a read.

minimizing O2 in bottle conditioning. This one is up to 11 pages, but has some good stuff. Easiest process modification is to minimize headspace and cap on foam if you can.

I have no acces to CO2. What i do now to avoid oxidation is: 1. BOTTLING
* use few grams of ascorbic acid in mash and few grams again in bottling solution.
* Leave almost no headspace (5-10mm). * Hoppy beers i let warm up to room temp before bottling so the yeast is "awake" and ready to eat sugar when i bottle. (The idea is this if the yeast does scavange some O2 it does get rid of it sooner)
2. DRYHOP
*For hoppy beers just use more wp hops
*DH at high krausen when yeast is producing lot of CO2
* if late ferm DH is desired I STILL open the FV at high krausen and attach the hops to the lid with magnets. Close the lid and pull the magnet when its time.

I dont put hops ready at pitching time because its few extra days that hops are losing some of their aroma.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

On oxidation definitely give this a read.

It's the topic that eventually caused the change in "forum wisdom" around bottle conditioning. (Yes, you can bottle condition NEIPAs).

The idea of minimizing head space isn't 'new', just 're-discovered' - as the idea can be found in home brewing books published in the 1990s.

Ascorbic acid gets mixed reviews. Apparently 'too much' in the mash yields off flavors. At bottling time, it will help prevent oxidation, but won't fix damage that was done 'up stream'.

Storing the beer at round 40F probably doubles shelf life.

A couple of simple 'up-stream' changes seem to result in better beer at bottling time.

PET bottles (squeeze the head space closed) may be an attractive alternative. Note, however, that there seems to be some uncertainty around how many times they can be re-used.