CraftBeerPi - Raspberry Pi Software

[rkhanso]

Hi guys, has anyone had issues with their DS18B20 probes where the rating on Cbpi just locks up and stops changing even though the temperature is still climbing? Its happening to me a lot the last few days and I cant see why?

I've not had anything exactly like that, but have notice that after switching to the Brave web browser, I have to turn off the Shields for the CraftbeerPi web page, or I get other really strange things happening (can't even get any temp sensors to show up in the system hardware setup, etc). Might you be using a browser that is more secure, but might be interfering with the web page display?

What happens when you manually refresh? Does the web page load again? If so, does it load displaying the new higher temperature? (trying to determine if the Raspberry Pi is locked up or not).

 

[Lalo_uy]

I had have errors with Advanced_one_wire & filtered_one_wire. The thread seems to quit for some error and the sensor stop updating. You can confirm in the sensor log, that stop updating as well. There is so munch "noise" in the app log from the UI update logging that can't see any sensor related error. Now I have set up for a friend a system with 16 sensors that works ok with the standard One_Wire module.

 

[troyp42]

I've not had anything exactly like that, but have notice that after switching to the Brave web browser, I have to turn off the Shields for the CraftbeerPi web page, or I get other really strange things happening (can't even get any temp sensors to show up in the system hardware setup, etc). Might you be using a browser that is more secure, but might be interfering with the web page display?

What happens when you manually refresh? Does the web page load again? If so, does it load displaying the new higher temperature? (trying to determine if the Raspberry Pi is locked up or not).

Im using safari on a Imac and my Ipad. CBPi refreshes but the reading stays the same temp stuck on say 43C when its actually climbed to 65C.

The logs show and update but its always the same temperature everytime it displays a new line in the log it just keeps showing 43C.

Then Ill reboot and the reading will be 0C. Then I delete and try to re install the sensor but I cant see an address. Eventually after a few reboots it re-appears and I install it again in CBPi, it works for 10 mins and freezes again.

I ended up removing that probe and installing another one and it managed to work right up to 90C without freezing so maybe the first probe was stuffed.

 

[jangevaa]

I had have errors with Advanced_one_wire & filtered_one_wire. The thread seems to quit for some error and the sensor stop updating. You can confirm in the sensor log, that stop updating as well. There is so munch "noise" in the app log from the UI update logging that can't see any sensor related error. Now I have set up for a friend a system with 16 sensors that works ok with the standard One_Wire module.

Some kind of exception must be encountered in your scenario. In terms of getting the temperature the only difference between my plugin and the default 1wire plugin for actual temperature access IIRC is that Manuel puts almost everything into a try block.

 

[troyp42]

Ive switched over to PT100 temp probe as I was still getting too many problems with one wire.

 

[NeoBrew]

Ive switched over to PT100 temp probe as I was still getting too many problems with one wire.

What do you use to interface the PT100 into the Pi?

 

[troyp42]

What do you use to interface the PT100 into the Pi?

One of these.. Its a MAX31865 amplifier.


https://www.adafruit.com/product/3328

 

[mmmooretx]

Install issue:
RPI3B+, stretch noobs os, 3.0 CraftBeerPi board, 12vdc 5A ps attached for CBP install, manual install vis PuTTY. # times I have started from scratch, cut & paste, and always get "could not open requirements file no such file or directory requirements.txt. Also each install I answered y to all questions from the script and Craft Beer Pi never came up.
What am I doing wrong?

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I have a terragady v5.0 add on board and have a few questions if you guys don't mind.

1. It's meant to get power of 12V/5A. Is this so the buck converter can power the pi and the externals at the same time (such as a 12V pump)? I wouldn't mind re-purposing an old laptop charger or similar... can I just connect that straight into the power terminals at the top right?
   
2. I need to adjust the MP1584 to 5V... are there any terminals or pins I can attach the voltmeter to or does it need to go straight onto the MP1584?
   
3. What are GPIO19+26 for in the top left corner?
4. Why are there 3 terminal sets for GPIO04 (One wire)? Does each One wire device have some sort of Unique ID I can identify them with? Would that then be used for say one sensor before the pump and one at the wort return?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[rkhanso]

I have a Terragady 4.2 board, but the idea is the same.

• 1. you supply 12v to the Terragady board. The converter gives the Pi 5v that it needs. the 12v is used for the rest of the terragady outputs/switching. Some SSRs don't like the 3V that the Pi outputs. So the Terragady will raise the 3v to 12v instead. It gives a higher signal to better switch relays/ssrs. Side benefit - I use it to run a 12v circulation pump. Works perfect for powering the pump right from the same supply that's powering the Pi and Terragady board.
• 2. You'll want to measure the converter output - and adjust to get +5V at the test point in the lower right corner of your picture. At least I think that's the test point on this version of the board.
• 3. I'm not sure why GPIO 19,26 are separate like that. But I have to assume they connect up to those GPIO pins on the Pi. That's a guess. They're marked +12v, so I'd assume they're still outputting 12v from the Terragady board and not 3.3v from the PI. Maybe they just ran out of real estate on the board.
• 4. Each 1-wire sensor has 3 wires. +5, data, ground. It's just a convenient way to connect three of the 1-wire sensors. You can add more, but would have to connect them to another in parallel (they're all really connected in parallel anyway).

 

[Lalo_uy]

I have a Terragady 4.2 board, but the idea is the same.

• 2. You'll want to measure the converter output - and adjust to get +5V at the test point in the lower right corner of your picture. At least I think that's the test point on this version of the board.

That points are the I2C connection, but is a good place to check the 5V adjust.
There is no way to measure 5V without a voltmeter, do not risk your RPi.

BandonBrewingCo be aware if using a 12v pump that the output transistors are limited to 800mA or so. The pump should not require more than 6 or 7 W.

 

[toadyus]

BrandonBrewingco - GPIO 19 and 26 are just extra 12v pinouts which you could solder in a 2 pin male header and then use a 2 pin female header out to whatever you want. I used it for running those cheap 12v pumps so I didn't have to cut off the female header that came standard on those pumps.

 

[augiedoggy]

BrandonBrewingco - GPIO 19 and 26 are just extra 12v pinouts which you could solder in a 2 pin male header and then use a 2 pin female header out to whatever you want. I used it for running those cheap 12v pumps so I didn't have to cut off the female header that came standard on those pumps.

those pumps are advertised to draw only 800ma but in reality they draw much more than that. I tested this with multiple power supplies and measured performance.. I would not be surprised if you run into electrical hardware failure down the road from this. (if the power is regulated on the board)

I did something similar myself with an arduino and burned a few out by overheating the onboard voltage regulators.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Thanks everyone, that's really cleared everything up for me (for now...)!

 

[rkhanso]

BandonBrewingCo be aware if using a 12v pump that the output transistors are limited to 800mA or so. The pump should not require more than 6 or 7 W.

I should have been a little clearer..... I'm not using the output of the Terragady board to power the pump directly. I'm using it to switch a relay, that is pulling the 12v off the same 12v power supply that's running the controller.
No chance of burning anything out. Well, except for that little 12v pump that gets a fair amount of use.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

So if I'm using an old 12V 5A laptop charger as my power supply can I just split it to power the terragdy board and 12v pump at the same time?

 

[rkhanso]

That's what I did. I ran the 12-volt to the pump through a relay controlled by one of the gpio pins on a Teragaddy board. I also put a fuse on that 12 volts to the pump.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

That's what I did. I ran the 12-volt to the pump through a relay controlled by one of the gpio pins on a Teragaddy board. I also put a fuse on that 12 volts to the pump.

Is that to protect the pump from too much power coming from the laptop charger?

 

[rkhanso]

Is that to protect the pump from too much power coming from the laptop charger?

It's to protect the current getting too high on anything between the pump and power supply (and yes, including the power supply). I'm not as concerned about the power supply though, as it's easily replaceable. If anything were to happen inside the controller box to the wiring, components, boards - it would be more downtime because I may have to replace components on the Terragady board, replace the PI (though not likely), or otherwise messing around with anything inside the controller box isn't what I want to do. Replacing a fuse is easy. See the picture below.
And yes, I've had to replace the fuse once.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

It's to protect the current getting too high on anything between the pump and power supply (and yes, including the power supply). I'm not as concerned about the power supply though, as it's easily replaceable. If anything were to happen inside the controller box to the wiring, components, boards - it would be more downtime because I may have to replace components on the Terragady board, replace the PI (though not likely), or otherwise messing around with anything inside the controller box isn't what I want to do. Replacing a fuse is easy. See the picture below.
And yes, I've had to replace the fuse once.

View attachment 655993

Ah that makes sense now! Don't suppose you have a pic of the inside of your box somewhere by any chance?

 

[rkhanso]

Sort of a mess inside. Here are a couple pictures:

 

[day_trippr]

Meh, I've built much more horrible looking units - that are still working years later...

Cheers!

 

[LBussy]

We use boxes because we know the wiring is ugly.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Sort of a mess inside. Here are a couple pictures:

that's not a mess!

 

[macfonics]

I am building a HERMS setup and are planing to use cbpi-CascadeControl for temperature controol of the system.
Is it any best placment of temperature probes? Where is your HERMS probe?
Has it always been there or did you switch from one place to another because of problems?

Possible placement:
HLT in
HLT out
HLT middle pot
HERMS coil in
HERMS coil out
Mash in
Mash out
Mash middle pot

 

[spittybug]

Is it any best placment of temperature probes? Where is your HERMS probe?

Q: What is the purpose of this probe? A: To tell me the temp of the recirculated mash coming out of the HERMS coil.
Q: Why do I need this info? A: To ensure I don't overheat the wort, denaturing the enzymes.
Q: Will the wort be any hotter than at the end of the HERMS coil? A: No

Hence your answer as to where to best monitor your HERMS coil temperature:

HERMS coil out

 

[day_trippr]

I concur with the conclusion. While one may monitor other points in the loop that's the one that imo is most critical to control...

Cheers!

 

[PhamNuwen]

Does anyone know of a plugin for using a TRIAC (phase control)? Essentially I need to use one pin as an input from an optoisolator (this tells the Pi when the AC sinusoid is above or below a threshold voltage (so for me in the US it sends pulses at 120Hz). After seeing a pulse the Pi outputs high on a different pin (opening the TRIAC), and then goes low after a delay determined by the PID. Here's an example circuit and Arduino code: https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ACPhaseControl/

I haven't really messed with programming things with the GPIO on the pi before, so I'm a little intimidated. But there's already something like this to work off of I think I could adapt it to my needs easily enough.

In case anyone is wondering, I prefer this over a SSR because it provides more precise/stable control. The end goal is to use cbp to control my buddy's reflux still so we need to be able to precisely adjust the power to the heat element without worrying about variation because the Pi controller isn't synched to the line frequency. That and for < $5 I can switch 20A.

 

[jangevaa]

Does anyone know of a plugin for using a TRIAC (phase control)? Essentially I need to use one pin as an input from an optoisolator (this tells the Pi when the AC sinusoid is above or below a threshold voltage (so for me in the US it sends pulses at 120Hz). After seeing a pulse the Pi outputs high on a different pin (opening the TRIAC), and then goes low after a delay determined by the PID. Here's an example circuit and Arduino code: https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ACPhaseControl/

I haven't really messed with programming things with the GPIO on the pi before, so I'm a little intimidated. But there's already something like this to work off of I think I could adapt it to my needs easily enough.

In case anyone is wondering, I prefer this over a SSR because it provides more precise/stable control. The end goal is to use cbp to control my buddy's reflux still so we need to be able to precisely adjust the power to the heat element without worrying about variation because the Pi controller isn't synched to the line frequency. That and for < $5 I can switch 20A.

I think the set up you describe would be less reliable then using PWM output, with a raspberry pi in the equation. I think you'd be better to use an SSVR and rig up a digital potentiometer to the pi, these work via phase angle.

 

[Lalo_uy]

The time response in the RPi OS will lag too mutch for a application like that. I would resort to an Arduino doing the timing and communicating with the Pi via serial or PWM.