CraftBeerPi - Raspberry Pi Software

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I currently use an SSVR w/ a potentiometer (electric) to control my boil.

Is there a similar solution that can be integrated w/ CraftBeerPi?

Has anyone ran into any issues w/ boil overs due to the indirect "push button" approach of this setup (rather then a direct turn dial to decrease power to the heating element)?
 
Quick Q on setup, when using a 3.1(nope 4.2) board what setup option (GPIO etc) do you choose, it wasn't clear on the setup screens.

Finally got round to assembling the board and plugging in my new pi zero w on to it (was swearing when I powered up and no led on the zero, needed a newer raspberrian image)
 
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hairybiker said:
Quick Q on setup, when using a 3.1 board what setup option (GPIO etc) do you choose, it wasn't clear on the setup screens.

Finally got round to assembling the board and plugging in my new pi zero w on to it (was swearing when I powered up and no led on the zero, needed a newer raspberrian image)
Click to expand...

You answered your own question, you want to select GPIO.
 
The number of outputs really. If you only need 2 (heat/pump) then the smallest board will work fine, whereas it you need multiple pumps/heaters then get one of the bigger boards.

I got the 4.1 but the 5 (not available when I got the other one) would have been better for my Grainfather setup. But the pi-zero sits nicely on top of the board.
 
hairybiker said:
The number of outputs really. If you only need 2 (heat/pump) then the smallest board will work fine, whereas it you need multiple pumps/heaters then get one of the bigger boards.

I got the 4.1 but the 5 (not available when I got the other one) would have been better for my Grainfather setup. But the pi-zero sits nicely on top of the board.
Click to expand...
Did you have any problems setting up the temp. sensors with 4.1? I thnk you had to change the gpio around.
Terragady didn't release the Gerber files on 5.
 
hairybiker said:
The number of outputs really. If you only need 2 (heat/pump) then the smallest board will work fine, whereas it you need multiple pumps/heaters then get one of the bigger boards.

I got the 4.1 but the 5 (not available when I got the other one) would have been better for my Grainfather setup. But the pi-zero sits nicely on top of the board.
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken you have a 4.2 board not a 4.1...I never had any 4.1 boards made and yes you're correct each board has a set # of outputs.

3.1 has 5 outputs
4.2 has 6 outputs
5.0 has 8 outputs

For more information on each board you can check out our website. Thanks
 
I haven't got around to actually connecting anything to the pcb yet :p Just assembled and put the zero on top to test it.
Yet it is 4.2 my mistake memory not what it was.

More outputs than I need but room for expansion.
 
Having a problem with my 5.0 terragady board. It causes my RPi 3 to go into a boot cycle loop. I get the Pixel screen, the rainbow screen, the 5 raspberries and then it cycles through that over and over. If I unhook the board, the Pi boots up fine.

Anyone have any ideas??

Dave
 
pdavidc said:
Having a problem with my 5.0 terragady board. It causes my RPi 3 to go into a boot cycle loop. I get the Pixel screen, the rainbow screen, the 5 raspberries and then it cycles through that over and over. If I unhook the board, the Pi boots up fine.

Anyone have any ideas??

Dave
Click to expand...

Are you trying to power both at the same time?
 
brewApprentice said:
I currently use an SSVR w/ a potentiometer (electric) to control my boil.

Is there a similar solution that can be integrated w/ CraftBeerPi?

Has anyone ran into any issues w/ boil overs due to the indirect "push button" approach of this setup (rather then a direct turn dial to decrease power to the heating element)?
Click to expand...


Has no one had this issue?
 
What's the web address for the information on the different boards?

And has anyone done any work on connecting the sensors/SSR wirelessly?
 
mwawrzyniec said:
What's the web address for the information on the different boards?

And has anyone done any work on connecting the sensors/SSR wirelessly?
Click to expand...

The website is in my signature below, any questions please pm me.

Only thing that I've used wireless is to connect the pi to my network...sorry.
 
Trying to install on a freshly flashed chip, and I get this error right before gembird support:


Command "/usr/bin/python -u -c "import setuptools, tokenize;__file__='/tmp/pip-build-Ax5KCY/greenlet/setup.py';f=getattr(tokenize, 'open', open)(__file__);code=f.read().replace('\r\n', '\n');f.close();exec(compile(code, __file__, 'exec'))" install --record /tmp/pip-LTDCnA-record/install-record.txt --single-version-externally-managed --compile" failed with error code 1 in /tmp/pip-build-Ax5KCY/greenlet/
Click to expand...

Any ideas?
 
I have the official craftbeerpi board. I am trying to set up the built-in buzzer. Does anyone know what gpio the software needs to be set to?
 
I'm a newbie to brewing beer so i figured I might as well jump in the deep end and create a all grain ebiab system. The first part I wanted to create a brew controller. I have a CraftBeerPi Extension Board and was wondering if anyone could provide some feedback on what I am planning on building. Diagram is attached, thank you for any input you may have.

BrewController.jpg
 
swimIan said:
I have the official craftbeerpi board. I am trying to set up the built-in buzzer. Does anyone know what gpio the software needs to be set to?
Click to expand...

Try gpio25; that's what he used on earlier designs. I'm not at home right now, so can't check my board. Just received mine and haven't had a chance to fire it up yet, so don't know for sure.
 
zarman said:
I'm a newbie to brewing beer so i figured I might as well jump in the deep end and create a all grain ebiab system. The first part I wanted to create a brew controller. I have a CraftBeerPi Extension Board and was wondering if anyone could provide some feedback on what I am planning on building. Diagram is attached, thank you for any input you may have.
Click to expand...

Will your power input be hard wired or pluggable? If hard wired, I'd consider a keyed or some sort of latching switch feeding the 12v power supply. This might help prevent cutting power to the Raspi through an inadvertent flip of the switch, which could lead to data corruption of the SD card. If you are running the OS off a USB drive, then that is less of a concern. Another optional item, which some may consider overkill, would be to put a LED across the outputs of the contactor. That way you have a clear indication of power to the SSR. That might be helpful when trouble shooting if the element does not fire.

Also, I think you have a drawing error in how you present the wiring to/from the pump switch. Although, being 120v you are probably OK switching just the hot leg. But you are showing 2 inputs and 1 output for that switch, which doesn't make sense. Again, suspect it is just an issue with the drawing.
 
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Alt said:
Will your power input be hard wired or pluggable? If hard wired, I'd consider a keyed or some sort of latching switch feeding the 12v power supply. This might help prevent cutting power to the Raspi through an inadvertent flip of the switch, which could lead to data corruption of the SD card. If you are running the OS off a USB drive, then that is less of a concern. Another optional item, which some may consider overkill, would be to put a LED across the outputs of the contactor. That way you have a clear indication of power to the SSR. That might be helpful when trouble shooting if the element does not fire.

Also, I think you have a drawing error in how you present the wiring to/from the pump switch. Although, being 120v you are probably OK switching just the hot leg. But you are showing 2 inputs and 1 output for that switch, which doesn't make sense. Again, suspect it is just an issue with the drawing.
Click to expand...


Thanks so much for the feedback. It will be pluggable to a 240v 30am gfci spa panel. I guess I need to do a little more research but i assumed supplying 12v to the craftbeerpi board would also power the raspberryPi. I guess i could also run usb power to the raspberryPi board if it makes sense.

All of the switches are illuminated so i should have a good idea if the contractor is activated.

On the pump wiring diagram I'm not sure if I have it correct but the idea was to be able to manually turn it on event of the pi was not on... maybe for cleaning or something.

Thanks again
 
zarman said:
Thanks so much for the feedback. It will be pluggable to a 240v 30am gfci spa panel. I guess I need to do a little more research but i assumed supplying 12v to the craftbeerpi board would also power the raspberryPi. I guess i could also run usb power to the raspberryPi board if it makes sense.

All of the switches are illuminated so i should have a good idea if the contractor is activated.

On the pump wiring diagram I'm not sure if I have it correct but the idea was to be able to manually turn it on event of the pi was not on... maybe for cleaning or something.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

You are correct, the CBP board back feeds power to the Raspi through the GPIO pins. Do NOT power the Raspi through the USB power socket at the same time!

The point I was trying to make is that it is not a good practice to kill power to a Raspi if you run the full OS from a SD card. Yo'll want to shut it down from the program or shell command. Because of that, you don't really need the switch. I guess it gives you a convenient way to restart the Raspi without pulling and replugging the main power cord after you've shut it down from the program or shell. If your setup is permanent or semi-permanent , that could be advantageous by Triggering the Raspi to restart by cycling power. A momentary switch would be good for that purpose. Just don't use that switch to normally power down the Raspi or you will eventually corrupt the OS.
 
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Hi! Are there any issues with mounting 2 x 3ohm speakers in the control panel? using a 300x200mm metal rittal enclousure with 7inch touchscreen
 
I just purchased a hosehead uno and am trying to run cbpi. I have followed Corey's instructions and have been back and forth trying to trouble shoot and issue. My hosehead uno will not connect to cbpi and I get an error saying refusal to connect. It was mentioned to me that cbpi servers may be down and I was curious if anyone here had any answers to that being the case or any help trouble shooting.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Alt said:
You are correct, the CBP board back feeds power to the Raspi through the GPIO pins. Do NOT power the Raspi through the USB power socket at the same time!

The point I was trying to make is that it is not a good practice to kill power to a Raspi if you run the full OS from a SD card. Yo'll want to shut it down from the program or shell command. Because of that, you don't really need the switch. I guess it gives you a convenient way to restart the Raspi without pulling and replugging the main power cord after you've shut it down from the program or shell. If your setup is permanent or semi-permanent , that could be advantageous by Triggering the Raspi to restart by cycling power. A momentary switch would be good for that purpose. Just don't use that switch to normally power down the Raspi or you will eventually corrupt the OS.
Click to expand...

Thanks you again for the feedback, This is great info for me that i did not consider. I think i will look into the momentary switches to shutdown and restart the raspberry pi.
 
Sorry if this has been answered before:

I have the official craftbeerpi board. I was hoping to either hook up two ssr's to the boards ssr/relay outputs or use a relay board hooked up to the ssr/relay outputs. I like the second option because the relay boards are small. Would I need a 12v relay board in this case? How would I wire it?

I am aware I can use a 5v relay board on the expansion slot instead but I was wanting to save those for later.
 
I am wanting to add an led that comes on when the element is on. I tried connecting an led to the DC side of my solid state relay but when I do I guess it drags the voltage down enough because the led comes on but the relay doesn't fire.

Anybody have any suggestions to how to do this?
 
My personal belief is you should add a high voltage LED across the element power. This way you know when the element is actually powered. SSR's can fail closed, so the element could be on even though the SSR is not powered. This is rare, but does happen on occasion.
 
I have my chest freezer connected to Craftbeerpi. It's an elegantly simple setup, but I havent been able to get good temp regulation. I don't want to short cycle the compressor, obviously, so i haven't been brave enough to tighten down on and off triggers. Does anyone have on off fermentation trigger settings that work for them? I'm not using a heater, just the freezer. In addition to measuring the air temp, i also have a DS18B20 in fermenter thermowell. It is not used for control, just monitoring. Thanks.....
 
BrunDog said:
My personal belief is you should add a high voltage LED across the element power. This way you know when the element is actually powered. SSR's can fail closed, so the element could be on even though the SSR is not powered. This is rare, but does happen on occasion.
Click to expand...

Good idea. Thanks.
 
I suggest you add as much thermal mass as possible - an empty freezer will need more compressor cycles. Jugs of water or more beer are a great way to do it. You can then shorten your hysteresis windows and/or have the compressor cycle less frequently.
 
That is true, I was just trying to get in the ballpark before I put beer in it.... Even with +2 on, 0 off I'm getting 10 deg swings every hour. My graph looks like an EKG. I suppose that may not be a problem as the liquid will not change temp as fast as the ambient but figured I'd check first.
 
I'm exagerating a little, perhaps, but it's close to 10. A +2 on with 0 off at 55 deg lets it get up to 57. But even shutting off at zero (55) there is huge latency and it keeps cooling down to around 48 or 49. It stands to reason from what I've seen screwing with it the last couple days that the off setting is going to need to be really close to the on to account for the lag. I didn't want to experiment myself into a fried compressor.
 
golfindia said:
I'm exagerating a little, perhaps, but it's close to 10. A +2 on with 0 off at 55 deg lets it get up to 57. But even shutting off at zero (55) there is huge latency and it keeps cooling down to around 48 or 49. It stands to reason from what I've seen screwing with it the last couple days that the off setting is going to need to be really close to the on to account for the lag. I didn't want to experiment myself into a fried compressor.
Click to expand...


Is the temp probe sitting in liquid or air? One trick to keep the cycles down is have the temp probe sitting in a growler (or similar container) of water.

Then the water imitates the temp swing of the beer rather than the ambient environment in the freezer.

Hope this helps! [emoji482]
 

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