Cost of 240v controller vs 120v

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jetfixr

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On most of these single vessel systems available, why is it so much more expensive to go the 240v route rather then the 120v? I mean, the PID controller itself is the same cost, granted you would need to use a little larger SSR and heatsink, but that cost should be negligible, you would probably have to use a contactor or relay, and again not a huge cost. I would think the difference in cost should be no more then about $50-$75, not the $400 premium that I am seeing online
 
When you go above 2000W you will need 240V.

So actually 240 would be cheaper as the current is half, so the cable and control elements can be rated lower.

I started out stealing 240 with two plugs in a split kitchen receptacle. Not excepted practice but not unsafe. Now I have a receptacle in-line with the clothes drier cable to get the 18 Amps for my 4400W element.

With a bit of patience you can diy. If you ask around you can probably get scraps of cable and plugs.

Tom
 
On most of these single vessel systems available, why is it so much more expensive to go the 240v route rather then the 120v? I mean, the PID controller itself is the same cost, granted you would need to use a little larger SSR and heatsink, but that cost should be negligible, you would probably have to use a contactor or relay, and again not a huge cost. I would think the difference in cost should be no more then about $50-$75, not the $400 premium that I am seeing online

Because 240v/30amp components are more expensive and harder to work with. I'm not aware of two otherwise similar controllers that vary by $400 due to the voltage.
 
In most of the all-in-one setups, the premium for stepping up to 240v is around $400 over and above the cost of the same system using a 120v element. The d-i-y cost is not leaps and bounds more to built a 240v controller. Many folks just don't want the headaches or lack the knowledge to go the d-i-y route.
 
I have a eBIAB setup with one 5500w and a 1650w element. I have been getting by not having to buy a 240v controller by using a Inkbird PB-16 plugged in to my 1650w element for temp control. It works pretty well, i get with in a few degrees of mash temp using both elements(+/-5*F) turned on then i turn the 5500w element off and let the inkbird control the 1650w to hit mash temps and hold throughout the entire mash. It hold my temps right on surprisingly close, usually to within 0.5 degrees. Then crank the 5500w element back on for the boil and so on....

one thing i did was wire my 5500w element to a 30a light switch, so i can flip the switch on/off super quick, not having to mess with unplugging the twist lock during the brew day is nice.

It takes 10min to get to 150*F with both elements on so i just set a timer and sanitize my other equipment and measure out my hops and it is usually ready to turn off the 5500w element by them. I do 7-15 gallon batches this way with out much hassle. Now a new $400-1000 PID for 240 would be nice but i dont really think it is worth the money at this point with this system. But i do say a new PID would make my brew room look freaking sweet with all the lighted buttons, amp reading and digital temp displays!!
 
In most of the all-in-one setups, the premium for stepping up to 240v is around $400 over and above the cost of the same system using a 120v element. The d-i-y cost is not leaps and bounds more to built a 240v controller. Many folks just don't want the headaches or lack the knowledge to go the d-i-y route.
I'd actually say that you're wrong. Most 240v systems also use elements that are much higher wattage. I think that's likely what you're seeing here. Higher wattage systems cost more. High wattage/low voltage systems do not exist because, counter to your initial point, they would be more expensive than a high voltage system of the same wattage.
 
You could build a 240 simple control panel for around $75 on the coffee table watching tv drinking a beer in an hour or two. Not worth buying one
 
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