Copycat Keezer

[rsklhm10]

I know you indicated that you used Minwax water based stain and polyurethane, but what shade of stain is that? Maybe I missed it. Also what finish of polyurethane (i.e. satin, semi-gloss, gloss)?

Great build!

 

[Reno_eNVy]

Super cool! Subscribed, can't wait to see the photo with the tap lights on :rockin:

 

[crashmeister]

Holy crap that's beautiful Crashmeister! I was going to just do a collar and run my Perlicks through that, but this has me thinking... how much (ballpark) did you have in materials for the woodwork? Minus the base... I would be doing that anyhow...

Thanks!

I used two sheets of 4x8 oak ply at +- $48 per sheet.
The white wood (pine) is quite cheap, but I used a lot. Maybe 40 or 50 feet ?
The solid 1x4, 1x6 and 1x8 oak is quite pricy. I cannot remember the cost per foot, you can look it up on Home Depot's website. Again, maybe 40 to 50 feet ?
Sanded ply is about $25 a sheet.

All these prices are from memory. Check HD website for better accuracy.

The wood is probably around $400 to 500, I would guess.

 

[crashmeister]

I know you indicated that you used Minwax water based stain and polyurethane, but what shade of stain is that? Maybe I missed it. Also what finish of polyurethane (i.e. satin, semi-gloss, gloss)?

Great build!

Rosewood. They mix the color into a base at Home Depot.
Poly is 'Polycrylic clear satin'.

BTW, I used the stain more like a paint. Thin coats - not wiped down. I tried the wiping down on the tap board and ended up sanding it all off and starting again.

 

[crashmeister]

Totally awesome work. I've seen a few Jester clones and yours is one of the nicest ones.

I am moving next year and want to get one of these. I have 60 inches of width to work with at the location where I plan to put it. Is your chest freezer 48 inches wide?

Yes, almost exactly 48" wide.

 

[crashmeister]

Starting the tiling. Did the tap box first. Some of the insulation can be seen here.

Tiles on and drying. Sides were cut to the correct height and glued on last. The entire tap box is removable.

 

[crashmeister]

My nephew created a logo for my brewery. I'm going to frame that, and we are going to make BOD handles for the taps.

The reflection is just that, not part of the poster.

 

[crashmeister]

Back of the keezer. Dimmer switch for the lights and temperature controller mounted on recessed back board. Handles make it easier to remove the back board.

Inside of the back board. 2" thick foam that fits snugly into the tap box.

Inside the tap box. Walls are all 2" foam. Angled foam braces help snug things up when the back baord is installed. It becomes quite a tight fit. The split in the back foam makes it easier to remove. The cut is at an angle, so the top piece just pulls away and the bottom piece can be removed. You can see this in the second photo.

Also visible in these photos are the bolts which hold the tap box to blind nuts in the plywood.

Foam handles make it easier to get the foam in and out.

The back of the shanks. I ended up with 4 1/2" shanks.

 

[crashmeister]

Internals:

Four bolts are attached to blind nuts in the plywood lid. These are fastened with nuts and four small pieces of ply helping to spread the load a bit. The hole in the lid is sealed off with duct tape.

Main CO2 distribution done through secondary regs and two three way splitters. I will eventually just get a five reg battery. Its better to be able to set eack keg individually.
I tested the stain on the reg setup.

Nitrogen cylinder for the Porter/Stout.

 

[crashmeister]

The final Product:

 

[Hoppopotomus]

Absolutely beautiful!!!! Nice work.

 

[letzleta]

I see the wire for your temperature probe going over near your CO2 distribution block, but where does it end up? Is it in water, air, etc.? I am trying to find the best place for my temp probe.

Beautiful build BTW!

 

[crashmeister]

The Ranco probe cannot be placed in water. I just dangle it over the edge of the wood strip, so it's hanging in open air.

 

[Hoppopotomus]

Hey Crashmeister...I have one suggestion. I used to leave my temp. probe just dangling in the air in the freezer, but found that the compressor was cycling too frequently. There is a lot of convection going on in the freezer compartment with cold air sinking and warmer air rising. I was getting large temp. swings on my controller and it would overshoot my pre-set temp. by several degrees when the compressor cycled. If I were you, I would tape the probe about 2/3 down the outside of one of your kegs and then cover the probe with an adequate amount of insulation. You will notice a lot less compressor cycling and the probe will then give you a more accurate reflection of your beer temp. as opposed to the ever fluctuating temp. of the freezer compartment. Remember, this is a chest freezer that is not designed to cycle as freqently as a fridge. Doing this will add to the life of your freezer and increase your accuracy with temp. adjustments. Good luck.... and again, it's a beautiful build!

 

[crashmeister]

but found that the compressor was cycling too frequently.

I have mine set to a 2 degree variance and it does not seem to cycle much.

The weight of the lid seals the top quite well, plus the ribbed foam I installed under the ply, around the hole, seals that off, so I am getting very little temperature loss.

When it was just the freezer, I got a lot of moisture inside. Since I completed the keezer, there has hardly been any at all. The Damp-Rid I put in there is not doing much at all.

Getting a good seal is key to less frequent cycling of the compressor.

 

[Tommy1858]

Awesome build

 

[xmacro]

Anyone have blueprints or a part list for this kinda thing? It's really a work of art, and I'd like to copycat it as well

 

[crashmeister]

I figured it out as I went along. Had to scrap one tap box and start again.

My guess is that most folks do the same.

Key thing is to measure everything very carefully and remember to allow enough space to get the freezer in and out. Also check drip tray placement, mine is a bit too far back.

When I build version 2 (not any time soon), I may make a full list.

Anyone have blueprints or a part list for this kinda thing? It's really a work of art, and I'd like to copycat it as well

 

[steeler71]

Starting the tiling. Did the tap box first. Some of the insulation can be seen here.

Tiles on and drying. Sides were cut to the correct height and glued on last. The entire tap box is removable.

 

[steeler71]

where did you get drip tray?and is there tile on back side of drip tray or just butted up to back.

 

[steeler71]

do you have pic or how ya did tile around tower..thanks

 

[Jerkzz]

I figured it out as I went along. Had to scrap one tap box and start again.

My guess is that most folks do the same.

Key thing is to measure everything very carefully and remember to allow enough space to get the freezer in and out. Also check drip tray placement, mine is a bit too far back.

When I build version 2 (not any time soon), I may make a full list.

How did you run your rope lighting under your taps? Did you use a router to shove the ends back thru your box? I would love to see a pic. I pretty much copied your exact construction

 

[Julian Høstan Urrea]

WOW..... Just wow. And this is without Experience as a carpenter? Really good work man. Really good work.

 

[creekcaster]

Amazing build.... So jealous!
An Atlanta United fan too.... Great taste!