Copper CF Chiller and Stainless fittings

[dinokath]

Bruh

 

[Dland]

Anyway...I recently had to look in to this topic when installing in new well, expansion tank, etc. Considered mixing metals in house side plumbing as there was a time lag on the bronze T fitting I needed for expansion tank. It can be done, but a di-electric insulator is recommended. In the end, I waited for the bronze T, just to keep things simple.

What does above have to do with current thread? Not much; this is not continuous flow, immersion and fixed infrastructure. Also don't want to be mixing metals in marine applications, have seen that go badly.

Application that is the subject of this thread;.. Don't worry about. Just use some teflon tape on the treads and everything will likely be just fine.

 

[hotbeer]

There generally isn't a perfect solution, there are pros and cons to everything most times. FYI I was simply expressing the cons associated with your suggestion and in no way suggested QDs or camlocks as perfect. I also provided multiple suggestions for an adapter. You are the one who suggested to "just use a properly sized tube and properly sized clamp..." without discussing any other options.

I didn't see where any had suggested what I suggested. So I was just adding one to the list of things already suggested. I didn't know it was required that I discuss other options. Until the OP asks or says something to make me think otherwise I'm assuming they are capable of figuring out what they'd like to try next and what will be more of a PITA to them or not. Con's and pro's also include personal preference and I can't make that for the OP. Some say bottling is a PITA, yet I and others think Kegging is a PITA.

And even if they weren't taking it off every time, there is no difference from the barbed QD, barbed camlock, even a barbed TC fitting and and a barb in the tee when cleaning involves taking the tubing off other than a quick brushing or wipe down of the specific quick disconnect. Plus the benefit of a more fixed connection instead of a repeated loosening and tightening of the worm drive clamp. But I certainly wasn't suggesting to "just" do it one way.

I'm not sure why one wouldn't take the hose off every time. But I'd rather not add to the already labored and lengthy discussion this has become about what fitting to put on the chiller. And quick disconnects come in many forms. Some not so easy to simply wipe off. Many I've seen with a O-ring that if not removed and the grove it sits in cleaned/sanitized, then a place to harbor infection if used on the tube for the wort.

These type clamps would be more preferable for clamping vinyl or silicone tubing than a worm clamp.

Walmart.com

They are inexpensive and can be found at a local auto parts store in a box of assorted sizes. Of course they are easier to deal with if you have the proper hose clamp pliers for these type clamps. However wide jaw pliers work well enough and sometimes if the hose, the tube you are putting it on, the fluid pressure is low enough and other things like planet alignment is just right then I can squeeze with my thumb and forefingers and get them on and off. Even on automobiles and other machinery.

Since you mentioned it, what readily removable properly sized clamps are you using?

I only use a simple immersion coil chiller. I just slip the ends of the vinyl tubing over the smooth ends of the copper tubing. It holds well enough. Though if I was to turn the pressure up too high I'd expect the tube on the inlet side would blow off.

But still the worm clamp you shun isn't so bad a choice IMO. If they are the correct size and haven't been used on any tubes that were smaller diameter prior to the current use. Even if that other use was still within the size range of the worm clamp.

And the size range is NOT always determined by how far the clamp allows you to turn it. Some have the slots all the entire length of the clamp. Probably just so you have the option to use it in other situations than the manufacturer imagined or just that it's more cost effective for their processes to make it that way. Other worm clamps limit how far you can screw the band. I don't think either is better if one knows what to consider.

In this thread you've never given the OP a chance to respond much. Maybe you think it helpful to the OP, but to me it's just filled this thread up with useless conversation that the OP and everyone else must wade through.

And I realize I've been guilty sometimes of the same thing, but I'm trying to be better! IMO, the OP probably could figure out most of the additional discussion you've made in their stead. This thread has turned from a simple question into something that's much like trying to take a sip of water from a open fire hydrant.

 

[Deadalus]

Last paragraph is about galvanic corrosion, beginning is for @hotbeer

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

Just means exactly. There's a big difference between "just do it this way" and "you could do it this way" or "how about this". You further qualified it with what not to do, use a QD. And that you didn't mention alternatives afterward reinforces that. If you misspoke just say it.

Then you give a backhanded comment directed to me, with a "We" when "We" includes me who had just given multiple suggestions directed towards the question about adapters. And it was actually you who introduced the not using QD discussion. OP questioned using an adapter to a tee then barbs. Nothing I said until you chimed in was about QDs (other than me mentioning I might I use a spare I had), it was about types of adapters and composition.

FYI, I don't think any of us are trying to give the OP the perfect solution... well at least some of us. We are just suggesting other ways so the OP can have plenty of suggestions to choose from and decide which is less of a PITA to them.

You were the one who hijacked it! Emphatically defending a process that you admittedly don't even use. That's rich! I have multiple hoses that I wouldn't want to repeatedly take off their worm clamps after every brew. The OP would have at least four and practically had to pull teeth to get you to admit to a different style you weren't even using.

And the OP did have time to respond. Three times no less, before officially talking themself out of it. Reread the thread you've been dissembling here.


Anyway...there's an additional factor to galvanic corrosion beyond the electrolyte (water, wort) and it relates to the relative surface area of the two metals being joined. If you are joining a small area anodic (less noble) piece such as copper pipe to a larger area cathodic surface, say a stainless steel tank corrosion will occur. The other way around though, like here a stainless fitting to copper pipe not usually a problem. The caveat is that first example (given at the link) is considered within a submersed supply water situation. As mentioned by several posters, drying out the fittings and minimizing contact using teflon would result in short contact time on a small surface area.

 

[hotbeer]

Just means exactly. There's a big difference between "just do it this way" and "you could do it this way" or "how about this". You further qualified it with what not to do, use a QD. And that you didn't mention alternatives afterward reinforces that. If you misspoke just say it.

You are parsing the words of a quickly written statement and assigning more meaning to them than I and I'd think most anyone else would have put to them.

The subject of my initial reply is about what I and let me repeat that what I would do. The next sentence doesn't really state the subject being addressed. You've taken that as me commanding the OP to do as I say. You couldn't be further from the truth. I want the OP to do what they think will work best for them.

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.

 

[Deadalus]

You are parsing the words of a quickly written statement and assigning more meaning to them than I and I'd think most anyone else would have put to them.

The subject of my initial reply is about what I and let me repeat that what I would do. The next sentence doesn't really state the subject being addressed. You've taken that as me commanding the OP to do as I say. You couldn't be further from the truth. I want the OP to do what they think will work best for them.

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.

You are admitting that what you wrote was in haste and that you don't mean it the way you have written it but the onus was on me to understand you properly?! Nice try with the gaslighting but the third sentence does have a subject--"you" here referring to the OP-- and refers back to the sole direction you gave in the second sentence.

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

How about have you even used a CFC (used one, cleaned it, used it again)? I built one as I said 25 years ago. For various reasons I wasn't comfortable with whether it was fully clean inside and converted it to an IC. So I completely understand wanting to be extremely confident about sanitation. But you can't see inside a CFC. If a brewer isn't confident enough in getting connections cleaned without complete disassembly every time, they will never be happy with the CFC or a plate chiller. I'm asking about your use because I just went through a bunch of discussion with you emphatically defending a cleaning process that is just hypothetical to you. I brew on a 3V2p EHERMS, initially using a SS IC and then I switched to a plate chiller. I have added in a hopstopper II, removed my hop spider, and want to whirlporl still. I switched back to my IC but a CFC appears to be the a better choice. I am fully confident of my CIP and sanitation process with the plate chiller so the CFC won't be an issue. And as matter of fact, I am putting together my copper CFC in nearly the same fashion as the OP. So with this being an open forum, the suggestions you are making are being viewed by me almost as if I had posted the question myself, hence my involvement. The only angle I am seeing from you is that you think clamps need 100% removal for sanitation and that quick connect fittings shouldn't be used as they might get funky. Do you have any quick connects, have you used any?

 

[hotbeer]

You are admitting that what you wrote was in haste and that you don't mean it the way you have written it but the onus was on me to understand you properly?! Nice try with the gaslighting but the third sentence does have a subject--"you" here referring to the OP-- and refers back to the sole direction you gave in the second sentence.

How about have you even used a CFC (used one, cleaned it, used it again)? I built one as I said 25 years ago. For various reasons I wasn't comfortable with whether it was fully clean inside and converted it to an IC. So I completely understand wanting to be extremely confident about sanitation. But you can't see inside a CFC. If a brewer isn't confident enough in getting connections cleaned without complete disassembly every time, they will never be happy with the CFC or a plate chiller. I'm asking about your use because I just went through a bunch of discussion with you emphatically defending a cleaning process that is just hypothetical to you. I brew on a 3V2p EHERMS, initially using a SS IC and then I switched to a plate chiller. I have added in a hopstopper II, removed my hop spider, and want to whirlporl still. I switched back to my IC but a CFC appears to be the a better choice. I am fully confident of my CIP and sanitation process with the plate chiller so the CFC won't be an issue. And as matter of fact, I am putting together my copper CFC in nearly the same fashion as the OP. So with this being an open forum, the suggestions you are making are being viewed by me almost as if I had posted the question myself, hence my involvement. The only angle I am seeing from you is that you think clamps need 100% removal for sanitation and that quick connect fittings shouldn't be used as they might get funky. Do you have any quick connects, have you used any?

This is a social forum. Not a highly specialized site for only peer reviewed discussion. You aren't being very social!

You are taking offense at very small and trivial things.

And most certainly you are posing what I wrote in an entirely different manner than was intended when written. So you are the one gaslighting.

 

[Deadalus]

This is a social forum. Not a highly specialized site for only peer reviewed discussion. You aren't being very social!

You are taking offense at very small and trivial things.

And most certainly you are posing what I wrote in an entirely different manner than was intended when written. So you are the one gaslighting.

It's good that you keep admitting that you mispoke because we are communicating with text. Own it already, I'm not a mind-reader. And I called you on two complete fabrications concerning my participation here, and you just kept going and making up more BS and still claiming it's me. I think you have a mistaken idea of what is social. HBTalk is not a highly specialized site for peer reviewed discussion? It's not a site where homebrewing peers discuss electrical panel construction, water chemistry, grain malting, yeast biology and genetics, DIY brewing rigs, user written brewing software and other brewing programs, and oxidation, oxidation, oxidation? [Is this the point where I am supposed to know what you meant?] There are sub-forums for general chit-chat but this thread isn't in it. The thread topic is using stainless steel compression fittings on the ends of my copper coil CF chiller. That's a no and a no to the boldfaced questions I posed to you earlier then?

Following up now, I received the Delrin compression sleeve/ferrules. Given that I had a sort of groove on the wort side copper ends, I was hesitant to overtighten these. There's not a lot of room left before the tee fitting. I got some grab but the entire fitting would still spin. I tightened it down nearly completely though and no good, still spinning. I could conceivably solder on a coupling and then get more extension but I think I will go with the brass compression by NPT adapters as plan B as they have the sleeve to prevent further compression. I'm hoping they will seal and perhaps smooth the copper tubing back to round. Those automobile type clamps might work although with complete honesty the bigger ones can be real bastards without the specialty pliers. I've used smaller ones with small engines (mower, log splitter, power washer) that weren't so difficult Thank you for that mostly on topic suggestion hotbeer. I recognized your genuine experience using them given the pliers comments along with your humorous note about planet alignment. I guess the moon was in Ares today making that easier for me.