Coopers Lager Help

[TacomaHomeBrew]

First off, I would like to thank all of you. I have asked a few questions on here and have had prompt responses. I love the community of homebrewers! I am still very new, and this Coopers lager is only my second batch.

I was given some advice to help kick this kit up a notch. I was told to do a hop tea, which I did with cascade hops about 1.5 ounces (pellet). I was told to take the coopers yeast and just dump it in with my boil, they stated that it would kill the yeast but add very little nutrition and it was a good way not to waste. It was replaced with 11g of Nottingham. The kit came with the brew enhancer 1, which I was told to use but also add 2lbs light DME for flavor and abv. Everything is set, literally I finished about 20 minutes ago. Now for the questions. SG= 1053

Were those modifications that were given to me correct?

Will the coopers yeast added to the boil effect the flavor?

I noticed the Nottingham was 11g which was more than what coopers provided, is that too much yeast? Local Brew shop recommended it.

How long should I leave this in primary, I plan on transferring to a carboy which I have never done. I do plan on adding some more cascade pellets in the carboy, is this recommended?

How long should I leave this in the secondary? As a note the temp where I am brewing ranges from 64-73 degrees F.

Also I noticed there seems to already be a decent amount of what looks like trub, is this a cause for concern?

I plan on kegging this batch! I know this is a lot of newb questions, I really do appreciate any and all info! Happy brewing yall!

 

[ronclark]

The DME will do nicely for your beer. It will be much better than using simple sugars.

I have never heard of dumping yeast in a boil for any reason. Maybe someone else has something to help you on that.

The Nottingham yeast was not too much yeast. You're fine on that.

I would not bother with a secondary at all for this batch. There isn't much point to it.

I would dry hop in the primary when the visible fermentation is nearly over and give it 5-7 days like that. Put them in a hop ball and drop them right in or put them in a muslin bag with a couple sterilized marbles to weigh it down.

Hope this helps.

 

[Piratwolf]

First off, I would like to thank all of you. I have asked a few questions on here and have had prompt responses. I love the community of homebrewers! I am still very new, and this Coopers lager is only my second batch.

Cheers, and welcome to a great site! I love this place too!

Were those modifications that were given to me correct?

I don't see any real problems.

Will the coopers yeast added to the boil effect the flavor?

. Not likely.

I noticed the Nottingham was 11g which was more than what coopers provided, is that too much yeast? Local Brew shop recommended it.

Dependsmon the batch size. 5-6 gallons would be just about perfect.

How long should I leave this in primary, I plan on transferring to a carboy which I have never done. I do plan on adding some more cascade pellets in the carboy, is this recommended?

.
Technically, you don't need to transfer it, although some folks do like to do so in order to dry hop as you are planning with the additional Cascade pellets. If you DO decide to transfer, wait at least until your hydrometer readings are steady for three days in a row to make sure your fermentation is complete.

How long should I leave this in the secondary? As a note the temp where I am brewing ranges from 64-73 degrees F.

.
In general, you'll get your best beer if it sits in the fermenter(s) for at least three weeks altogether. Add the dry hop Cascade pellets around 5-7 days before you keg the beer. Alternately (or additionally, if you're a real hop head), some folks like to dry hop in the keg. You can find many posts on that with a quick search here.

My only concern is the temp range. You want the fermentation temp (which is usually several degrees above ambient) to stay below 70 for certain to avoid off flavors. Temp control and pitching healthy, correct-sized yeast batches are the foundations of great beer!

Also I noticed there seems to already be a decent amount of what looks like trub, is this a cause for concern?

That's a cause for rejoicing! Notty is a BEAST in my experience, and sometimes ferments my beer to FG in 3 days

I plan on kegging this batch! I know this is a lot of newb questions, I really do appreciate any and all info! Happy brewing yall!

Brew strong, and report back on your results and thoughts... We learn a lot from empirical research!

 

[unionrdr]

I'd def use hop sacks when dry hopping. Those ball things are a bit small for the sheer volume of 1oz of hops sweeled up when wetted. And 64-68F would be a lil better for a ferment temp.
Adding the brew enhancer with the 2lb of DME is ok. Some folks don't like the extra maltiness of the DME addition only,so they add a bit of sugar like dextrose to dry it out a bit. Your call there. Try both ways & see which you prefer.

 

[boo boo]

I have never heard of dumping yeast in a boil for any reason. Maybe someone else has something to help you on that.
.

Dumping yeast into the boil makes nutrients for the real yeast to use later when fermenting.

 

[ronclark]

Dumping yeast into the boil makes nutrients for the real yeast to use later when fermenting.

Oh. Thanks for the pointer. I've just used a little Fermax when needed. I guess this gives me a good use for the discarded yeast packets I've been collecting in the kitchen.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Wow, thanks guys. So let me ask this, why not recommend the carboy? I was told it was a great way to clean your beer up a bit and a preferred way to dry hop? I am not opposed to taking this extra step, is it unnecessary? Does it not help in the end with sediment? I was concerned about the trub since it looks like so much if it is at the bottom so soon. When can I expect to see some action? It looks as if it is just chillin with a bunch of trub at the bottom. As a note, it has only been about 8.5 hours, also, I am using one of the newer coopers fermentors, the one without a airlock. Thanks again for the great, thorough, fast responses! Yall are awesome!

 

[ronclark]

Now, you'll get the big debate on secondary fermentation. Some say only to do it when adding fruit or doing extended fermentation periods. Some do secondaries to dry hop. Others do it every time.

Personally, I'm a bit lazy I guess. I have only used secondary fermentation for fruit additions and for mead (lengthy fermentation periods).

I have dry hopped and added cocoa nibs directly to the primary.

That's just me.

Like I said, this is going to change from person to person.

 

[unionrdr]

Wow, thanks guys. So let me ask this, why not recommend the carboy? I was told it was a great way to clean your beer up a bit and a preferred way to dry hop? I am not opposed to taking this extra step, is it unnecessary? Does it not help in the end with sediment? I was concerned about the trub since it looks like so much if it is at the bottom so soon. When can I expect to see some action? It looks as if it is just chillin with a bunch of trub at the bottom. As a note, it has only been about 8.5 hours, also, I am using one of the newer coopers fermentors, the one without a airlock. Thanks again for the great, thorough, fast responses! Yall are awesome!

Carboys are not THE prefered way to dry hop anymore. More of a preference by a few,since most dry hop in primary when FG is reached. It'll be just as hoppy,& just as clear. Save yourself another mess & more fussing. Most of us just don't think a secondary is needed anymore unless racking onto something or aging. Just let it ferment down to a stable FG,however long that takes. Then give it an additional 3-7 days to settle out clear or slightly misty.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Carboys are not THE prefered way to dry hop anymore. More of a preference by a few,since most dry hop in primary when FG is reached. It'll be just as hoppy,& just as clear. Save yourself another mess & more fussing. Most of us just don't think a secondary is needed anymore unless racking onto something or aging. Just let it ferment down to a stable FG,however long that takes. Then give it an additional 3-7 days to settle out clear or slightly misty.

I guess I would just be concerned about a ton of sediment after all that. Also, when should I expect to see some action. It hasn't even been 24hrs. But it looks like a lot of trub at the bottom and no action. Am I just paranoid? Thanks.

 

[unionrdr]

What temp did you pitch the yeast at? Since it's been less than a day,& you likely pitched it dry,I wouldn't worry too much.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

What temp did you pitch the yeast at? Since it's been less than a day,& you likely pitched it dry,I wouldn't worry too much.

23-24 c.

 

[unionrdr]

24C is 75.2F,so that's a tad warm. It should've at least pegged the airlock center piece against the cap by now at that temp. I usually get that before any bubbling. Almost sounds like something else is at work here...

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

24C is 75.2F,so that's a tad warm. It should've at least pegged the airlock center piece against the cap by now at that temp. I usually get that before any bubbling. Almost sounds like something else is at work here...

The newer cooper fermenters don't use airlock. The temp was within the recommended range of the kit.

 

[unionrdr]

All the cooper's instructions say that,& they're not for a specific kit. They're generic to the series the can is from. The cooper's ale yeast,as I've seen works from about 60.8F (16C) slowly,up to 69F for best results. It's def a little sluggish at 16C though. So I'd say to go no lower than 62F.
And yeah,forgot about the DIY FV for a minute. But that would tend to make one wonder. No krausen yet? Is the wort swirling up & down at all? They do that while they're fermenting.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

All the cooper's instructions say that,& they're not for a specific kit. They're generic to the series the can is from. The cooper's ale yeast,as I've seen works from about 60.8F (16C) slowly,up to 69F for best results. It's def a little sluggish at 16C though. So I'd say to go no lower than 62F.
And yeah,forgot about the DIY FV for a minute. But that would tend to make one wonder. No krausen yet? Is the wort swirling up & down at all? They do that while they're fermenting.

I'm not next to it at the moment. So are you suggesting that I killed the yeast? If so, how can I salvage it?

 

[unionrdr]

The only way you'd have killed it is if you pitched at like 120F. Too cold,like 55F or so,it goes dormant & sinks to the bottom ime. But notty yeast is pretty good. I'm starting to wonder if the yeast was old & not stored properly befor you got it? I know they say it can take up to 72 hours to start visibly fermenting,but I've never had one take that long. Let alone those 11g-15g packets. It's usually good even pitched dry. Do you have the packet yet? Take a look at it next chance you get.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

The only way you'd have killed it is if you pitched at like 120F. Too cold,like 55F or so,it goes dormant & sinks to the bottom ime. But notty yeast is pretty good. I'm starting to wonder if the yeast was old & not stored properly befor you got it? I know they say it can take up to 72 hours to start visibly fermenting,but I've never had one take that long. Let alone those 11g-15g packets. It's usually good even pitched dry. Do you have the packet yet? Take a look at it next chance you get.

I'll update u when I get home. Thanks for the help.

 

[unionrdr]

Yeah,let me know. I'll help as much as I can. It's just odd for notty to do that.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Yeah,let me know. I'll help as much as I can. It's just odd for notty to do that.

Here are the pics. It has only been about 19 hrs. Is that too much on the bottom?

 

[ronclark]

You're fine. That's not unusual at all.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

You're fine. That's not unusual at all.

It's been about 22 hrs since i started and no action, is that normal? Thanks, paranoid first timer

 

[HopHeadGrady]

Do you see a small, very thin layer of foam on your wort?

I wouldn't be worried.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Do you see a small, very thin layer of foam on your wort?

I wouldn't be worried.

Yes, but it doesn't cover the whole surface.

Here's a bad pic of it. I don't want to open it.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Looks a little more foamy at the top but I don't see any movement. I heard it may take a couple days for action. Trying to think positive.

 

[unionrdr]

Looks a lot like my 1st one with the cooper's OS lager. Pitched the yeast dry,very little foam,& not one bubble. But the cooper's micro brew FV held co2 pressure nicely,so it stayed safe. It looks fine,no worries,m8.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Looks a lot like my 1st one with the cooper's OS lager. Pitched the yeast dry,very little foam,& not one bubble. But the cooper's micro brew FV held co2 pressure nicely,so it stayed safe. It looks fine,no worries,m8.

I guess I expected to see some action like other brews, you could see the yeast movin around,not yet with this one.

 

[unionrdr]

Pitching the cooper's 7g ale yeast packet dry can do that. I re-hydrate all my dry yeast now. Def more vigorous initial fermentation.

 

[TacomaHomeBrew]

Pitching the cooper's 7g ale yeast packet dry can do that. I re-hydrate all my dry yeast now. Def more vigorous initial fermentation.

I used Nottingham 11g. What do you think about the hydrated yeast they sell in the shop.

 

[unionrdr]

I've never used the liquid yeasts myself. You have to make a starter with those to get a good cell count. Dry yeast by nature have a higher cell count. I like to re-hydrate them to cut lag time. But initial ferment temps have to be in the optimal range for the yeast being used to aid in that respect.