Cooler repair help

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IrregularPulse

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I have a 10G Round cooler. I drilled the hole for my bottom mounted heating element too large. Dumb mistake but what's done is done. I've currenty tried a SS washer on either side with gaskets to seal the deadspace around the element with no luck. I'm thinking it would be easiest to patch the hole in a way that I could bsaically start over. Let me know what you think of this idea.

JBWelding the Heating Element nut to a SS Washer. Then JBWelding that washer/nut combo to the bottom of the cooler. Then just use the stock gasket against the nut. basically making a "welded" fitting for a cooler.
This idea actually just came to me while typing the intro to this thread. I guess the only concern is, do you think JBWeld epoxy would stick ok to the extremely smooth surface of the cooler? This would be to the outside edge, not internal.
 
I think the JB will do it, rough it up a little with some fine sandpaper.

Still dealing with this cooler? You are more patient than I, I would have bought a new one by now.
 
It probably will not stick. It's got to be done with gaskets.

You want the stock seal on the element to seal to the washer you use. Between the washer and cooler inside wall, a nice flat gasket. On the inside, a washer and locknut. You may get liquid in the space between washers, but it won't get out from there.
 
There seems to be some concern lately about whether JB Weld is "food grade". Apparently, the company that makes JB Weld says not, which may just be them in CYA mode.

Anyway, I have started covering any exposed JB Weld that will touch mash/sparge water or wort with food grade silicone. Just to make sure.
 
There seems to be some concern lately about whether JB Weld is "food grade". Apparently, the company that makes JB Weld says not, which may just be them in CYA mode.

Anyway, I have started covering any exposed JB Weld that will touch mash/sparge water or wort with food grade silicone. Just to make sure.

I think he said it would be outside the HLT.
 
I think the JB will do it, rough it up a little with some fine sandpaper.

Still dealing with this cooler? You are more patient than I, I would have bought a new one by now.
You are more financially "privileged" than I :D It may very well come to that, but I've already bought one cooler for the projects on a good deal to find it wouldn't be ideal. I'm able to re purpose it at least into a traveling kegerator this summer for the new camper. Now I got this one for christmas and hate to see it just go to waste. I know a new one is only like $40-$50 but we are on limited funds for personal spending just building savings and paying extra on bills. We only take $40/month each for hobby money. Ingredients come from joint account, but upgrading equipment is hobby money. I figure there has to be a way to patch it.

My bad, I was visualizing the washer going on the inside, to cover the too-big hole.
There's a SS Washer on both sides of the cooler wall.
 
Bobby, This look right then?
element_sealing.JPG
 
So no gaskets needed inside the cooler?
I'm thinking bout picking up a silicone pot holder to cut some flat gaskets from. Any idea what those run? Guess I'll venture to McMaster Carr first though.
 
It probably will not stick. It's got to be done with gaskets.

You want the stock seal on the element to seal to the washer you use. Between the washer and cooler inside wall, a nice flat gasket. On the inside, a washer and locknut. You may get liquid in the space between washers, but it won't get out from there.

I agree. Commonly available adhesives and epoxies won't stick to the polyethylene cooler shell. Almost nothing will. There are some special (and expensive) epoxies that might work, but they will cost more than a new cooler. Best to go the gasket and washer route.
 
So does this sheet gasket seem like it'd be a good option to cut and use?

McMastercarr part number 5787T31
Ultra-Strength Silicone Rubber Plain Back, 1/16" Thick, 6" X 6", Orange-Red
In stock at $3.32 Each
Temp range of -80°F to +400°F
I just hate how there is no shipping quote with mcmaster but I understand they're an industrial supplier. Just hate paying $ shipping on a $4 part.
 
IP, i bought some silicone funnels from walmart to make gaskets out of, worked great. but i'm sure the flat sheet from mcmaster would probably be a better bet.
 
Pol, sinceiyou are following this. With the style of cooler you went with, did you need any reinforcement in the lid?
I may just go the new cooler route and find a way to seal the bottom solid to use as a new mash tun.
 
Man, $50 for these things. They usually have the 10G on sale in stores in the spring? Or anyone know where to get the 10G Round Orange Rubbermiad coolers for the best price?
 
Is there any chance you could make a new flange with washers and SS machine bolts?

Picture:
Large SS washer
Gasket to fit
Cooler floor
Gasket to fit
Large SS washer

Drill 4 1/8" holes through the whole sandwich, 90 degrees apart, and out of the way of the element. Tighten 1/8" SS stove bolts through the holes, creating a clamp of sorts. Then just attach the element to the new smaller center hole and put the nut on the inside?

In fact, if you assemble the sandwich, and install the element, and tighten the element nut on the inside, it may just seal itself up...
 
The sandwich effect is what we're going for with the above mentioned layout in the diagram. I think the extra holes for bolts would be a PITA and just give you 3-4 more holes to worry about sealing.
 
IP, i'm almost positive it said high temp on the package, but it was a really long time ago that i bought them. i've got 2 or 3 on my mash cooler and they seem to be working fine and are like 8+ months old. i routinely add water around 175 to warm it up and they work great.
 
Man, $50 for these things. They usually have the 10G on sale in stores in the spring? Or anyone know where to get the 10G Round Orange Rubbermiad coolers for the best price?

I paid $39 at home depot two weeks ago for my 10 gal round.
 
I need to get to the hardware store! No HD's around me but there is a menards and a lowes. I'll try and check them out tomorrow.

Any suggestions to see this hole up solid now to just use as a mash tun?
 
Gonna pick up some hot pads tomorrow at work, give it a shot making my own gaskets. If that doesn't work, shall admit defeat. THen decide if it's better to just make it from my spare keg or buy another cooler.

Question if I use a keg. Best way to insulate a keg for an electric HLT is? I'll still want to just usea 1500W Heating Element. Is the element going to be under powered in the keg even just heating 8-9Gallons?
 
Just did my leak test with some homemade silicone orings. So, whats the best way to insulate a keggle HLT and will a 1500W element one 120 still suffice? :(
I'm thinking the element will still suffice with proper insulation to maintain temps with a lid made from rigid insulation and a solid top. But what for insulation?

The thing killing me the small amount of threads. By the time I get 1 SS Washer for support on there I only have room for one silicone oring to be able to catch threads with the nut. I put the 1 seal between the outside wall and the SS washer that sits between the element base the cooler wall. so from bottom up it goes Element Base, SS Washer, silicone washer, cooler wall, ss washer nut. 0 room for another gasket. I tried replacing the top ss washer with another oring or two, and it would just get twisted trying to tighten the nut.
 
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