Converting fridge with freezer on top

[chemman14]

I was wondering if anyone has some how bracketed or attached the freezer and refrigerator doors so that opening the freezer doesn't also open your taps. I would like to do this because it would allow for higher tap placement and I could use full size tap handles.
Thanks in advance

 

[hamiltont]

I've seen it done successfully. Just a piece of flat bar screwed to both doors. Cheers!!!

 

[EFaden]

I just used the side instead of the front.

 

[sivdrinks]

I was told not to use the side because there's cooling lines that may be damaged, true or false?

 

[EFaden]

I was told not to use the side because there's cooling lines that may be damaged, true or false?

Most full size fridges only have lines in the back of the freezer. Check with the manufacturer. Mini fridges have them everywhere.

 

[chemman14]

I dont want to use the side because I cant always guarantee access to two sides of the fridge (front and side)P

 

[BBBF]

I was originally going to create a latch so that you can open the fridge door without opening the freezer, but if you open the freezer it would open the fridge too. Then I realized the tap handles I wanted to use were right up against the door (which is bad enough and worse because I have creamers) and opening or closing the door too fast caused the taps to open. I ended up just using smaller handles that the freezer door could clear.

 

[Golddiggie]

I might need to secure the doors together like this too. I would attach the plate/bracket to the fridge side, so that when the freezer is opened, both open, but when the fridge is opened, just the fridge door opens.

I'm holding off on installing taps into the fridge for a few reasons. Not the lest of them being that I expect to be moving fairly soon, so I don't want to spend the cabbage on the tap setup. Another being that once I've moved, I plan on making a keezer, with plenty of space for handles. I might, also, go with a bottom freezer fridge (later) and then it won't matter at all.

 

[brandonhagen1]

if you do use the plate/bracket please post pics so other people can see and maybe use your design

 

[chemman14]

if you do use the plate/bracket please post pics so other people can see and maybe use your design

yes this sounds like exactly what I need!

 

[chemman14]

Anyone actually do this yet? I am about to order all the parts to do the conversion

 

[Golddiggie]

I have faucets coming (as well as beer line and other required items). I need to get a drip tray too. I expect to be installing everything next weekend (at the latest). I did some changes today. I'll post pics later with what I've done.

 

[brandonhagen1]

have you done this yet?

 

[chemman14]

I have faucets coming (as well as beer line and other required items). I need to get a drip tray too. I expect to be installing everything next weekend (at the latest). I did some changes today. I'll post pics later with what I've done.

awesome

 

[Golddiggie]

Pictures of the current configuration...

As everything sits inside it tonight. I'll be able to place another 3 gallon keg on the shelf, once the bottles have been either moved or contents consumed.

Manifold secured to the inside wall (left side) of the fridge...

Shot of the fridge, CO2 tanks, and primary fermenters (on the left, bottom is a 50L, then a 1/4 bbl/pony keg, then a 25L on top) and two of my aging kegs to the right. Plus two empty 3 gallon ball-lock kegs in front.

Better shot of the kegs and CO2 tanks...

From the left: 20#, two 2.5#, 20oz with pin-valve regulator, plus spare 20oz, and 5# that's connected to the bulkhead in the right side of the fridge. All CO2 tanks are currently full. The one connected to the manifold is still essentially full (down a hair). Same 3 gallon kegs as the previous picture.

I'm thinking that I'll attach the drip tray with magnets, as someone else did (keezer build in an updated thread earlier today). That way I won't need to worry about changing it later (and having holes to fill).

 

[chemman14]

How is your build going golddiggie? I ordered all my parts yesterday

 

[Golddiggie]

Got the Perlick 575SS faucets, shanks, 50' of Bevlex tubing, and such yesterday. Working with another HBT member (also in my area) to get some handles made (wood). I'm holding off on drilling the fridge door until I know how much space I need to give for the handles, and so that I can use them. I also need to check with the LHBS to see if they have any drip trays in stock, of the right length/width, for me to use. Otherwise, I'll be placing another order over the weekend.

The last of the rare earth magnets arrived today, for the drip tray. With all that I now have, I don't see any issue using them to hold the drip try wherever I wish. Now it's just a matter of getting a drip tray to use.

If things go well, I could have the taps installed and a drip tray in place, before the end of the weekend. I want to get this done as soon as possible, so that I can start using the taps. So, once it is done, I'll be posting up pictures of the setup.

 

[chemman14]

how is your build going?? I just discovered that I wont be able to use full size tap handles any way. The angle that the perlicks put on the handles causes them to hit the fridge before they are totally closed :/
I am hoping that these will fit
http://www.sierranevadagiftshop.com/bar-supplies/tap-handles/short-acrylic-tap-handle.html
otherwise its going to just be the plain black ones that came with the kit

 

[Golddiggie]

Got mine installed yesterday while the storm was blowing. I'll take some pictures tonight wheb I get home. I did send an email to Keg Connection asking about the way the 575SS are supposed to function (for the creamer part). One seems like it will work, not sure about the other two. I did manage to build the lines, 10' long, and have them sanitized and connected to the shanks. Not on kegs yet since I'm waiting for KC to reply and one keg to kick (so I can replace it). Both could happen today/tonight. :rockin:

 

[chemman14]

Got mine installed yesterday while the storm was blowing. I'll take some pictures tonight wheb I get home. I did send an email to Keg Connection asking about the way the 575SS are supposed to function (for the creamer part). One seems like it will work, not sure about the other two. I did manage to build the lines, 10' long, and have them sanitized and connected to the shanks. Not on kegs yet since I'm waiting for KC to reply and one keg to kick (so I can replace it). Both could happen today/tonight. :rockin:

were you able to get full sizes taphandles on your rig?
cant wait to see it and be inspired to start my build!

 

[63belair]

Whenever you open the freezer, drink a beer.

 

[Golddiggie]

I installed them so that I could use up to 5.5" long handles without the freezer door hitting them when opened. I'm waiting for handles that long to test with. I do have some items coming that will be converted into handles. I might convert a few items I already have too.

I plan to take the pictures, tonight, with my good camera. That way you can actually see how it's all set up. I'll probably take some pictures of the door's inside too. Just for giggles.

 

[chemman14]

I am not talking about the taps hitting the freezer, I am talking about the taps hitting the fridge that they are attached to, not allowing the taps to close properly

 

[Golddiggie]

Well, this is how mine is setup...

The bottom left keg is about to kick, at which point I'll put one of the English IPA kegs in it's place. I'll lower the shelf one notch, so that I can fit another 3 gallon keg up there.

I'm not having any issue with the taps closing with the short handles on them. Depending on the diameter of the additional taps I get/setup, that could be an issue, but I suspect it won't be. Of course, I could just get some washers and make spacers to extend the shank out of the fridge a bit more.

Which make/model faucets are you using??

 

[chemman14]

perlick 525 ss

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm using the 575SS faucets. From what I've seen, they're identical in external design. Do you have the flanges on the faucet side of the shanks? I think that might provide the extra space you're looking for. Unless you have those installed (like I do) and you still can't get them to close. Although mine close when the handles are vertical.

If possible, post up a picture of how you have them installed...

 

[chemman14]

I'm using the 575SS faucets. From what I've seen, they're identical in external design. Do you have the flanges on the faucet side of the shanks? I think that might provide the extra space you're looking for. Unless you have those installed (like I do) and you still can't get them to close. Although mine close when the handles are vertical.

If possible, post up a picture of how you have them installed...

nothing installed I just held the shank up to the fridge with the tap handle on and it appeared that it wouldn't allow the faucet to close

 

[Golddiggie]

There's a full inch of space behind the tops of the tap handles on mine... About the same as from the fridge door face to the part of the faucet that is after the threads (where it goes straight)...

IF you get really long tap handles, they make connectors that slope the handles forward (called Bonnet Angler's), so that they're more vertical when in the closed position. You can always install those if needed. MidWest Supply has them listed (under the "Tap Handles & Accessories" section of the kegging/dispensing section). I'm sure others do too.

 

[chemman14]

There's a full inch of space behind the tops of the tap handles on mine... About the same as from the fridge door face to the part of the faucet that is after the threads (where it goes straight)...

IF you get really long tap handles, they make connectors that slope the handles forward (called Bonnet Angler's), so that they're more vertical when in the closed position. You can always install those if needed. MidWest Supply has them listed (under the "Tap Handles & Accessories" section of the kegging/dispensing section). I'm sure others do too.

ok, this is good to know. I still need to figure out a way to have the fridge open when I open the freezer. Otherwise the taps will be way too low on the fridge. There still is that possibility of going through the side i guess...

 

[Golddiggie]

I set mine low enough so that I can use 5.5-6" long handles on them and still be in a comfortable enough position when pouring from them.

IF I have a longer tap handle on mine, I plan on getting a piece of straight bracket, and use a couple of rare earth magnets to hold it to the fridge door (in front, by the opening edge) with it going far enough over the freezer door that opening the freezer will open the fridge too.

IF I do that, I'll probably spray paint the bracket black, to match the fridge, so that you don't notice it. I figure a pair of the magnets I'm using to hold the drip tray in position (holding the brackets to the fridge door) should be enough (18# pull strength) to do the job.

If you've checked the service drawings for the fridge and confirmed that there's nothing running inside the side walls, then go for it. You'll have more flexibility that way. I would do that if I had the option.

IF you're really handy, you could build up a structure to hold the taps higher, that doubles as a way to get both doors to open when the freezer gets opened. Although that might be severe overkill for the job. Not to mention you'll need/want to insulate it and make sure enough cold air gets into it in order to keep the lines at the right temp to keep the beer in a good way...