Controller Build - has anyone done this???

[JUST_BREW_IT]

Ok, first off I wasn't sure if I should post this in the diy section or here so if it needs moved let me know.

I am an AG brewer that is looking to make the move from propane to electric. I'm wanting to keep things simple for now but leave room for future growth should I choose to do so. I use a 25 gallon aluminum vessel as my brew kettle. I also have a keggle set up as a hlt. I mash in a 150 qt coleman extreme. I have a chugger ss with camlock fittings on everything. I also have both a 50' immersion chiller and a blichman therminator as well. Just to give you a run down of my set up. My typical batches are either 10 or 15 gallons.

Here is my thought process. I have my eye on the 20 gallon version of the boil coil which equates to a 5000W element and requires a 30A breaker which I will be plugging into my dryer outlet in the basement.

I'm thinking of building a simple controller like this (or have my electrician friend help me). This is a plan developed by hbt member 'P-J' and posted in this thread

Electric Brewers, let me know if you feel this will meet my needs or if I am forgetting anything here.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

trying to get this image attached

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

if anyone has done a build like this I would love to see the finished product and build sheet

 

[JoshuaW]

That would definitely cover it. You can probably save some money by going with the brewhardware.com element enclosure, and a standard hot water heater element at 5500w. Either way will work, but by using standard parts you are eliminating the chance that Blichman will stop supporting the Boilcoil prior to you needing to replace it. Your call though, either option will work 100%.

 

[Call_Me_Tex]

If you are only using it for boil control then i'd use a ssvr setup instead of the PID. Still dragon sells a reasonably priced kit or you can look at their assembly directions (in their forum) and build your own for less $.

Personally, i'm doing both. PID is for my HLT, ssvr is for my BK.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

If you are only using it for boil control then i'd use a ssvr setup instead of the PID. Still dragon sells a reasonably priced kit or you can look at their assembly directions (in their forum) and build your own for less $.

Personally, i'm doing both. PID is for my HLT, ssvr is for my BK.

Do you have a schematic for what you're doing?

 

[Call_Me_Tex]

I have a hand drawn one in a single color, incorrect symbols, and incoherent text To be honest, I doubt it will be of value to anyone but me and may cause more confusion than anything.

The boil circuit will look like the following thread because I'm gutting my still dragon controller to put in the new panel.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/stilldragon-diy-controller-kit-441611/