Contactor pole wiring question

[mkirkland]

I have a contactor similar to this one, but my wiring diagram from ebrewsupply doesnt show exactly where to connect my hot/neutral wires to it. (1; 2; 3; 4; A1; A2)

 

[P-J]

This diagram might help you:

'contactor-wiring.jpg'

 

[mkirkland]

So Neutral on 1 and Hot on 3 will be output to A1?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Is this a contactor for 115vac or 230vac? What is past the contactor? If this is the main contactor for the whole panel then the neutral will bypass the contactor and go directly into a terminal block of some kind. That would mean that only the two hots will be switched through the contactor.

For 115vac you can put the neutral (white wire) in on pin 1 and the hot (black wire) in on pin 3. Pins 2 and 4 will have the corresponding outputs to whatever the load is. A1 and A2 will be you switch voltage to engage the contactor and close the circuit.

For 230vac you do not have a neutral. You will be putting two hot leads. L1 will go into pin 1 and L2 will go into pin 3. The colors for L1 and L2 are Black and White. It doesn't matter which wire goes where as they are interchangeable. It would be a good idea, however, to keep it consistent throughout everything you do.

 

[mkirkland]

Is this a contactor for 115vac or 230vac? What is past the contactor? If this is the main contactor for the whole panel then the neutral will bypass the contactor and go directly into a terminal block of some kind. That would mean that only the two hots will be switched through the contactor.

For 115vac you can put the neutral (white wire) in on pin 2 and the hot (black wire) in on pin 4. Pins 1 and 3 will have the corresponding outputs to whatever the load is. A1 and A2 will be you switch voltage to engage the contactor and close the circuit.

For 230vac you do not have a neutral. You will be putting two hot leads. L1 will go into pin 2 and L2 will go into pin 4. The colors for L1 and L2 are Black and White. It doesn't matter which wire goes where as they are interchangeable. It would be a good idea, however, to keep it consistent throughout everything you do.

Its for a 115V system. I have the diagram in my first post. The contactor is the first point for power coming in from the wall

 

[grandequeso]

Black and white for L1 and L2 ? Only ever use white as a neutral conductor.

 

[muhteeus]

This diagram might help you:

'contactor-wiring.jpg'

This is the most useful.

To be fair guys, lets assume OP doesn't understand the Jargon.

A1-A2 - This is your CONTROL 110V supply. Your switch sends 110V through this to turn the contactor ON(closed) and OFF(open).

1 - This is input 1 for a wire you want to switch.
2 - This is output 1 for input 1.
3 - This is input 2 for a wire you want to switch.
4 - This is output 2 for input 2.

When you turn your switch to ON (110V to A1-A2), then there is STRAIGHT WIRE or a CLOSED connection between 1-2 and 3-4. When you turn your switch to OFF (0V to A1-A2) then there is NO WIRE or an OPEN connection between 1-2 and 3-4.

edit: i am dum, cant red gud.

 

[stlbeer]

Check your wiring. Terminals 1 and 3 are on the same side of the switch. 2 and 4 are on the other side.

In order to work correctly you would need terminals 1 and 2 to close together and 3 and 4 (on the other half of the switch) to close.

If you are not certain how contactors/relays work, use a voltmeter to check connectivity before connecting line and load lines.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

At a very basic level a contactor is like cutting a wire so that electricity cannot flow. And then connecting that break so that it can flow only when you want it. So a wire comes in and then goes out in the same line. That is what the little diagram is for on the front. That is why PJs diagram has colors. The color wire goes in and then goes out and it is not connected unless you flip a switch.

The switch uses a different part, a control part of the contactor per se, and that is noted differently with the prefix A in front of the pin number.

 

[Owly055]

Take your volt ohm meter and check connections......... One set of contacts will show continuity.... resisted continuity, and all the others will be open circuit. The two that show continuity will be your coil, and the other 4 will be your switched circuit.

Assuming you have a 110vac coil, find the coil connections with your volt ohm meter, then wire a plugin to that circuit, plug it in and check which of other connections are paired.. that is to say which ones have continuity. Each pair is a line in and a line out. Hook your lines to one of each pair, and your loads to the other two. It doesn't matter at all which way you connect them as far as which are line and which are load.

With 110vac, you do not need to run your neutral through the relay.... but it's a good idea in case someone has the hot and neutral swapped at the outlet, or you have a plug wired on wrong.

H.W.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Black and white for L1 and L2 ? Only ever use white as a neutral conductor.

That is what I use for 3-conductor industrial stuff. Black, white and green for single phase 240vac equipment. Some of my stuff can run on 3-phase and has an optional 4th wire that is red.

 

[stlbeer]

edit: i am dum, cant red gud.

Hahaha! Glad you noticed!

 

[butterblum]

With 110vac, you do not need to run your neutral through the relay.... but it's a good idea in case someone has the hot and neutral swapped at the outlet, or you have a plug wired on wrong.
H.W.

I have heard that it is in fact dangerous to connect a neutral wire on a 115V supply through a contactor or have it fused.
The neutral line should be the return for voltage from line - if you break the neutral connection, you risk leaving charge in the system.
Anyone else with electrical experience know this to be true?
P-J?

 

[augiedoggy]

I have heard that it is in fact dangerous to connect a neutral wire on a 115V supply through a contactor or have it fused.
The neutral line should be the return for voltage from line - if you break the neutral connection, you risk leaving charge in the system.
Anyone else with electrical experience know this to be true?
P-J?

a charge from what? power doesnt just stay in the wires like that and any element or motor that your powering with the contactor will dissipate said "charge"... theres no capacitors or anything to hold a charge like this in these panels.
Technically though you dont have to switch the N... just the hot poles.

PJ hasnt been on here in a few years I doubt he will respond you resurrected and ancient thread..