Unfortunately those controllers typically aren't programmable in terms of defrost periods or cycle time. Also many (I'm not actually familiar with your brand) will automatically run a defrost cycle if power is removed for more than a moment, i.e. using an inkbird plug and play type controller to cycle incoming power. The defrost would terminate fairly quickly due to warm evaporator sensor temp, but in all you would likely be looking at up to a 5 min delay every time you had a call for cooling.
If it were mine, I would delete the current controller, and replace it with an STC-1000 type controller. You can fully do away with the current defrost components (as a part of the cooling circuit), the door frame heaters, water pipe heater (not even sure what that is). Wire the evap fans through existing door switch to line voltage to run continuously unless door is open. The compressor and condensing fan can run directly off the cooling circuit of STC controller, and the defrost heaters (they are located inside fins of evap coil) can be wired to the heating relay of STC controller . The full rating of cabinet is only 8.3A, so this should work out fine assuming you can isolate all the components.
