CO2 Regulator

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Kerednai

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There are way too many options when it comes to regulators. This is my first Keezer build & I'm building a 3 tap system.
My gut is sending me in the direction of a micromatic regulator - Primary Double Gauge - CO2
Is this a good solid regulator or should I be considering something else? Eventually I think I want to add a secondary regulator so I can have different types of beer on tap, but I'll probably just start with getting the one on tap first before jumping to all 3.
 
Thanks. Interested to know why you would recommend that over the Micromatic. Just interested in why one is better than the other.
 
In my case it comes down to the design of the pressure control: the Micromatic has a small metal knob threaded into a metal bonnet and they can grind during adjustment. Doesn't feel optimal. Meanwhile, the Taprite has a larger plastic knob with a plastic bonnet and the two don't really make contact, thus the action is quite smooth. The larger knob is also easier to make that last tiny adjustment than the smaller knob.

Dual primary CO2 (cga320 stem) Taprite to the left, single primary beer gas (cga580 stem) Micromatic on the right...

1675911037168.png


Cheers!
 
Micro Matic and Taprite are pretty close to even. I happen to slightly prefer Micro Matic as it just seems better built and do like the addition of a pressure relief valve that is available on only some models of Taprite. If you read the Amazon reviews more Taprites are returned for defects compared to Micro Matic. I use both and get good results. The Taprite has a built in o ring making for an easier seal but with the Micro Matic I use a brass insert in the tank valve that screws in and contains an oring that basically functions the same way. If I were to buy another regulator I would probably try one of the new CMB regulators Kegconnection carries just to get a feel for it. As far as the cheap chinese regulators available on Amazon it's pretty much a gamble. One of the chinese regulators I have works fantastic but the cheap chinese regulator that came with my Edgestar kegerator is plain old junk that's not even functionable.

DMF
 
Good words above. My preferences are along the same lines as what's already been said, that being the case, I don't know what prices in the US are like, but here in Canada, the beautiful Micromatics cost significantly more than Taprites. I have a pair of Taprites, each of which I bought when there was a sale and I wanted T-bar handle for easy adjustment as my utility regulator. I already had my first regulator on my kegerator, which was a cheap chinese one that I wanted to replace, but NOT with a T-bar handle...you see, I'm often clumsy and ham-fisted since injury years back and I wanted either the Micromatic knurled-knob or the small screw-Taprite for the kegerator in the event it is accidentally brushed when I move things around... This is specific to my own setup and circumstance and dictates some of my criteria... I don't know that would be a concern for someone else. My Series-X kegerator came with a 'Mark 4' Kegland reglator which was little better than my first (Less so, in fact as it only had the MFL fitting with no on/off valve.)..It serves, but I will replace it with one of the more reliable afore mentioned ones when I can get a good deal on one.
'Buy Once, Cry Once', but if you can afford it before you absolutely need it, get not just the best you can afford, but spec'd according to your preferred setup. I my case, the ideal regulator for my kegerator will have a 0-30 PSI low-side guage (for readability and precise setting), a PRV, an integrated check-valve and ON/OFF vlave, and [probably] and MFL output.
Plan according to what you want it to do and a Taprite or Micromatic will last you a lifetime.
 
Good words above. My preferences are along the same lines as what's already been said, that being the case, I don't know what prices in the US are like, but here in Canada, the beautiful Micromatics cost significantly more than Taprites. I have a pair of Taprites, each of which I bought when there was a sale and I wanted T-bar handle for easy adjustment as my utility regulator. I already had my first regulator on my kegerator, which was a cheap chinese one that I wanted to replace, but NOT with a T-bar handle...you see, I'm often clumsy and ham-fisted since injury years back and I wanted either the Micromatic knurled-knob or the small screw-Taprite for the kegerator in the event it is accidentally brushed when I move things around... This is specific to my own setup and circumstance and dictates some of my criteria... I don't know that would be a concern for someone else. My Series-X kegerator came with a 'Mark 4' Kegland reglator which was little better than my first (Less so, in fact as it only had the MFL fitting with no on/off valve.)..It serves, but I will replace it with one of the more reliable afore mentioned ones when I can get a good deal on one.
'Buy Once, Cry Once', but if you can afford it before you absolutely need it, get not just the best you can afford, but spec'd according to your preferred setup. I my case, the ideal regulator for my kegerator will have a 0-30 PSI low-side guage (for readability and precise setting), a PRV, an integrated check-valve and ON/OFF vlave, and [probably] and MFL output.
Plan according to what you want it to do and a Taprite or Micromatic will last you a lifetime.

Hey Broken Crow. When you say you would like to purchase one that is better quality than the one that we have is the ball valve the only thing that you would like to see on our regulators or did you want to see the any other changes to the regulator model?
The reason I ask this is that we are about to release a new MK5 model and it's good to get feedback from our customer base before we launch the new model just incase there is something else we should be including in the new model.

We have been reluctant to put the ball vales onto the regulator as they add another point of failure and we felt they were not necessary. Ball valves have nylon bushes inside them that are generally quite good most of the time but if someone tightens the threaded parts on the ball valve too much they tend to damage the nylon bushings inside the ball valve when you turn the ball valve on/off and this can result in leakage. With that said if customers really do want ball valves it's something that we can consider doing but it would be great to get more feedback from you guys on this topic.
 
We have been reluctant to put the ball vales onto the regulator as they add another point of failure and we felt they were not necessary.

With all respect, I would be surprised if actual market research would support cheapening the product in that manner.
I would not purchase a regulator without a shut-off valve - and more precisely, without a shut-off valve with an integrated check valve.
Period.

Cheers!
 
With all respect, I would be surprised if actual market research would support cheapening the product in that manner.
I would not purchase a regulator without a shut-off valve - and more precisely, without a shut-off valve with an integrated check valve.
Period.

Cheers!

Just out of interest how do you use the shutoff valve? Is it not just as easy just to twist the knob anticlockwise a couple turns?

I am not trying to change your mind but just want to better understand the need for the valve.
 
Just out of interest how do you use the shutoff valve? Is it not just as easy just to twist the knob anticlockwise a couple turns?

I am not trying to change your mind but just want to better understand the need for the valve.
Once the regulator has been correctly set to the desired pressure, I find it better to work with the ball valve than with the knob that regulates the pressure. Especially if I have to change the keg and replenish with the same beer with the same carbonation.
Shut-off valve with an integrated check valve is the way.
 
Hey Broken Crow. When you say you would like to purchase one that is better quality than the one that we have is the ball valve the only thing that you would like to see on our regulators or did you want to see the any other changes to the regulator model?
The reason I ask this is that we are about to release a new MK5 model and it's good to get feedback from our customer base before we launch the new model just incase there is something else we should be including in the new model.

We have been reluctant to put the ball vales onto the regulator as they add another point of failure and we felt they were not necessary. Ball valves have nylon bushes inside them that are generally quite good most of the time but if someone tightens the threaded parts on the ball valve too much they tend to damage the nylon bushings inside the ball valve when you turn the ball valve on/off and this can result in leakage. With that said if customers really do want ball valves it's something that we can consider doing but it would be great to get more feedback from you guys on this topic.
It's not just the valve... The pressure creeps too: When I set the pressure, starting low and slowly raising, come back later, it's anywhere from 3/4 - 2-1/2 PSI over. The error is unpredictable. eg: I aim for 12PSI, I know it'll creep so I set it slightly over 11, but when I come back it's just touching 14. It usually takes me until the next day to make sure I've got it where I want it. My Taprites, by contrast, stabilizie in less than a minute, plus if you listen closely they make an audible ticking sound that goes ever slower as it reaches the set pressure and once it's silent I know I can wallk away and come back to the pressure I left it at.
It's not so major that I'm in a rush to replace it, but as a disabled guy who has to roll my kegerator out to adjust it, that is something I will change out. What I do like about it though, is the nice sized knob..small and firm enough I'm not too worried about turning by accident. .. and the MFL connector as standard is a plus..just wish it had and on/off valve.
Thanks for taking an interest though, glad to see you on this site.
 
Just out of interest how do you use the shutoff valve? Is it not just as easy just to twist the knob anticlockwise a couple turns?

Member @vandalay nailed it: I have numerous regulators feeding my keezer and each of my three refrigerators (7 primary regulators total) and once I have a regulator dialed in I am loath to change it vs simply toggling a shut-off valve when needed...

[edit] Totally forgot the other reason: a shut-off with check is the last defense against beer backing up into a regulator...

Cheers!
 
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I have several regs. I got one that looks like that micromatic with the small metal knob. I can't adjust it without channel locks. But I never touch it. It's set around 25 and I got 3 downstream regulators for individual keg adjustment.

I would never buy one again, but for how my set up is it works.

but you will never accidentally bump the setting
 
I have several regs. I got one that looks like that micromatic with the small metal knob. I can't adjust it without channel locks. But I never touch it. It's set around 25 and I got 3 downstream regulators for individual keg adjustment.

I would never buy one again, but for how my set up is it works.

but you will never accidentally bump the setting
Micro Matic has/had an Economy line regulator that looked kind of lousy but the Premium line I have is solid and easy to adjust with no creep whatsoever and I would have no questions about buying another depending on price.

DMF
 
Thanks for all your help. As I'm completely new to this I decided to go with the basic Commercial Keg kit from Kegconnection. I went with their CMBecker regulator. Will start with this kit (swapping out the party faucet with the tower I ordered) and see how I get on. Thanks!
 
The CMBecker regulator really looks good and will definitely be my next regulator I purchase. Plus a 5 year warranty can't be beat!

DMF
 
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