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co2 regulator questions

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neekolas86

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My co2 tank is housed within my kegerator. It currently only has a low pressure gauge which is used to measure the pressure of the keg. I want to upgrade to a Taprite T742HP dual-gauge regulator. My questions:

Would the lower temperature inside of the kegerator render the additional high pressure gauge useless?

The Taprite T742HP comes equipped with a check valve. Does this mean I do not have to purchase this disconnect check valve? http://www.williamsbrewing.com/DISCONNECT-CHECK-VALVE-P3658.aspx

Thanks!
 
What size tank?

There really is no reason to have a dual gauge with a 5 or 10 lb tank, they either have gas or you don't, the gauge isn't really going to give you enough warning when the tank goes empty.

Save your money and brew another batch of beer with the savings.
 
There really isn't a reason to upgrade imo. I would look into a dual regulator for multiple serving pressures if you feel you must upgrade.
 
I'm not sure what you have but you can likely swing by a welding supply and pickup a high pressure gauge and a little Teflon tape to seal the threads. It will install across from the inlet to the regulator, just like you see in the pictures.

I like my high pressure gauge but it is mostly entertainment. I do swap between a 10# and 20# tank. It means more on the big tank. It isn't worth buying a new regulator. Feel free to send me the money you save by not buying a new regulator. :)
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I'll hang on to my current regulator and save the $. A related question... My tank had air in it and I accidentally left the tank valve slightly opened but had the regulator valve closed. The following day my tank was completely empty, which made me suspect my regulator might need replacement or new seals. Thoughts?

Forgot to mention that the tank held air for months with no leaks when the tank valve was shut which led me to suspect a leak in the regulator and not the tank itself.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll order some Star San tonight. For clarification... if the tank valve is open and the regulator valve is closed there should be zero leakage, correct?
 
Correct, you shouldn't get any leaks with the tank valve open but the regulator closed, it is a closed system. The primary culprits are at the treads and the pressure release valve. You may not have a good seal between the regulator and the tank.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll order some Star San tonight. For clarification... if the tank valve is open and the regulator valve is closed there should be zero leakage, correct?

Ideally there would be no leaks, but it is quite possible to get leaks at any joint (such as the connection between the tank valve and regulator) and also within the regulator itself (such as a leaking diaphragm, or poorly seating poppet).
 
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