Clawhammer supply copper still kits

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Haven't seen any mention on HBT of these DIY copper still kits, anybody have any opinions to share? I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5 gallon kit, I plan to use it to make schnapps and brandies so I think the simple, traditional configuration will be just the thing. I also want to experiment with scotch tho I haven't found any recipes yet, just want to build on my brewing experience and try an all barley liquor and age it on oak.

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Yup. Built one and put an electric element with a PID in it. Take your time and make sure fitment is 100% perfect before soldering. Works well from what I've been told.
 

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Yup. Built one and put an electric element with a PID in it. Take your time and make sure fitment is 100% perfect before soldering. Works well from what I've been told.
Wow nice build, looks great! Although I already have a DIY controller I built for my BIAB kettle, it has an EZ-Boil instead of a regular PID and it lacks the ability to simply tune the output power. I'll just build another simpler controller for this setup.
 
9" wide is very narrow imho and with the weight of the shotgun condenser and hoses I would think it could possibly be a tipping Hazzard but that's just me.

I'm still old school and use propane but my 26 gal boiler is 2ft wide and total height is less than 3ft with the Lyme arm coming off at 4".

It's not a bad still and I love all copper but the width is my main concern I'd have for my personal purchase.
 
I ended up ordering a 30 qt bayou classic stainless stock pot as a starting point to build my own. I dunno if it will come out cheaper this way, but at least I can spread the cost out over several smaller purchases.
 
9" wide is very narrow imho and with the weight of the shotgun condenser and hoses I would think it could possibly be a tipping Hazzard but that's just me.

I'm still old school and use propane but my 26 gal boiler is 2ft wide and total height is less than 3ft with the Lyme arm coming off at 4".

It's not a bad still and I love all copper but the width is my main concern I'd have for my personal purchase.

Dunno, never used one. I only filled it with water to test it out when I finished assembly. Tipping never crossed my mind. The guy I built it for uses it all the time. Only issue he has had is keeping the top sealed. He uses light weight clear pvc tubing for the condenser.
 
Wow nice build, looks great! Although I already have a DIY controller I built for my BIAB kettle, it has an EZ-Boil instead of a regular PID and it lacks the ability to simply tune the output power. I'll just build another simpler controller for this setup.
What model EZBoil doesn't allow setting output power? AFAIK, every EZBoil has linear knob control of output power from 0 - 100%.

Brew on :mug:
 
What model EZBoil doesn't allow setting output power? AFAIK, every EZBoil has linear knob control of output power from 0 - 100%.

Brew on :mug:
I can tune output power % in boil mode, but the set temp target is 212, correct? In mash mode it has programmable mashing temps, but since mine is a dspr310 version A it lacks the MOUT variable that governs power output while in mash mode. Am I missing so ething here? I would love to be able to use the controller I already have, just not sure how.
 
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I can tune output power % in boil mode, but the set temp target is 212, correct? In mash mode it has programmable mashing temps, but since mine is a dspr310 version A it lacks the MOUT variable that governs power output while in mash mode. Am I missing so ething here? I would love to be able to use the controller I already have, just not sure how.
Ok, I see what you are saying. But in the temp hold mode (mash mode) the controller automatically modulates the power output between 0 & 100% to keep the temp stable, just like a PID is supposed to. Is this not working for you? If so, then it sounds like your element is over powered for the application (this is a situation I ran across early in my engineering career, trying to precisely control hot plate temps.)

Brew on :mug:
 
Ok, I see what you are saying. But in the temp hold mode (mash mode) the controller automatically modulates the power output between 0 & 100% to keep the temp stable, just like a PID is supposed to. Is this not working for you? If so, then it sounds like your element is over powered for the application (this is a situation I ran across early in my engineering career, trying to precisely control hot plate temps.)

Brew on :mug:
Maybe I can tweak the boil point preset to 190f or whatever and tweak the output as the run progresses to modulate distillate output? My controller setup for brewing uses two 2KW elements, for distilling I will only install one 2KW element.

EDIT: I need to just bite the bullet and send my controller in for a firmware upgrade. This will enable output control in mashing mode which sounds like just the ticket for what I plan to do.
 
I don't think having the MOUT parameter available will help with maintaining a constant temperature. It does not affect the power actually set by the EZboil if the required power is less than MOUT. If the power required to maintain temp is greater than MOUT, then you wouldn't be able to maintain the desired temp. MOUT is intended to limit the max power used when doing a temperature ramp. MOUT just sets the power used during a heat up to a fixed value that is less than the default heat up power of 100%. Once the set point is reached, power will be reduced from MOUT.

Are you trying to maintain a constant temp, cause a temp increase at a slower rate than 100% power provides (but which is not precisely controlled), or ramp the temp at a controlled rate?

Brew on :mug:
 
Are you trying to maintain a constant temp, cause a temp increase at a slower rate than 100% power provides (but which is not precisely controlled), or ramp the temp at a controlled rate?
It's my assumption that ramping up at a controlled rate as the run progresses makes sense because as the % of ethanol in the wash decreases, the boil point increases. Have I got this all wrong? I want to avoid the element running at 100% and ripping through the run at a rate faster than the condenser can accommodate.

According to the chart below, assuming a 20% wash means ramping the temp up to 190* and progress to 210* at a rate slow enough that the distillate output is no faster than a few drops per second. Being able to tune the output with the twist of a knob would be much easier to manage than trying to reprogram mash steps on the fly.

Boiling_Point_Ethanol_-_Distilling.jpg
 
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Yeah. I'm not familiar with what the ezboil can do, but on a cheap-o PID you just bring the liquid to a boil then switch to manual mode and reduce power to get the heat you need. Turn it up gradually as you progress. Trying to set it up in steps sounds too complicated. You really don't even need any temp feedback, technically.
 
It's my assumption that ramping up at a controlled rate as the run progresses makes sense because as the % of ethanol in the wash decreases, the boil point increases. Have I got this all wrong? I want to avoid the element running at 100% and ripping through the run at a rate faster than the condenser can accommodate.

According to the chart below, assuming a 20% wash means ramping the temp up to 190* and progress to 210* at a rate slow enough that the distillate output is no faster than a few drops per second. Being able to tune the output with the twist of a knob would be much easier to manage than trying to reprogram mash steps on the fly.

Boiling_Point_Ethanol_-_Distilling.jpg

Can't you set the power level you want with the bOUT parameter? Sets the power level used when ramping to a boil. The boiling temp is determined by the wash composition (% alcohol), not the power input. So you don't need to ramp the boiling temp, it will ramp itself as alcohol evaporates. The power input just changes the rate of evaporation once boiling temp is reached.

Brew on :mug:
 
Can't you set the power level you want with the bOUT parameter? Sets the power level used when ramping to a boil. The boiling temp is determined by the wash composition (% alcohol), not the power input. So you don't need to ramp the boiling temp, it will ramp itself as alcohol evaporates. The power input just changes the rate of evaporation once boiling temp is reached.

Brew on :mug:
Well hell, that makes a lot of sense! THANKS!
 
Haven't seen any mention on HBT of these DIY copper still kits, anybody have any opinions to share? I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5 gallon kit, I plan to use it to make schnapps and brandies so I think the simple, traditional configuration will be just the thing. I also want to experiment with scotch tho I haven't found any recipes yet, just want to build on my brewing experience and try an all barley liquor and age it on oak.

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JayJay, I just saw this. I own one. same size. Good one.
If you havent already, swap out the top elbow fitting for a tee and a threaded fitting, to insert a thermometer. Not necessary but helps to know when the foreshots are about to come off so you dont burn it .I used to use propane for heat but might use my electric brew rig boiling element for heat since I have it. Feel free to PM me for help if you need. I've made about 5 batches , but its been awhile. About to resurrect the ol gal here soon.
 
Wow nice build, looks great! Although I already have a DIY controller I built for my BIAB kettle, it has an EZ-Boil instead of a regular PID and it lacks the ability to simply tune the output power. I'll just build another simpler controller for this setup.
If you have one of the DSPR1x0 or DSPR3x0 EZ-Boils, it should work fine if used in the mash mode. Just put your temp probe at the top of the column and set the temp at 175+.

Brew on :mug:
 
JayJay, I just did a mash yesterday,Mostly cracked corn with a handful (< 1 lb) of barley and 4 lbs sugar ....its called a thin mash . Milled once . pitched 2 packets of yeast this morning. Been a while , lets see if i still got it.
 
2 hours later , I had a hard ferment going. already smelling like the fermentation room at Jack Daniel's Distillery. For some people taking their tour its a peee-eeeew , for me its (snifffff) Mmmmmmm.
 
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