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I have been looking at the CHS system or awhile now too. I will probably pull the trigger on it very soon. Down the road, I will upgrade to a Bayou Classic 1160 and add another 1650 watt element, wire in another PID, on/off switch and separate power cord running to a separate 20 amp GFCI outlet. I know I could build something similar for cheaper, but for right now, I like the all inclusive nature of this deal. I've been extract brewing for awhile now and want to make the jump to all grain and this seems like a decent option.

I'm actually in a similar boat. Going from extract to all-grain BIAB. I have been looking at this system for a while. I was thinking about supplementing the heating with a HotRod from brewhardware. If you purchase this system, please let us know how you like it.
 
It's a fair value for whats included in a ready to brew package. A few things that I would point out: I'm not crazy about the element - not necessarily because of the watt density, but I'm not certain about the enclosure. The element is the only tri clamp fitting on the system. There are cleaner tri clamp elements on the market that don't use some kind of "pod" enclosure to protect the connections. Not sure if they are available in 110 or not. Worth looking into. Second, I personally prefer a CFC to a plate chiller. I'll probably get ripped on this, but plate chillers clog. I know that a hop basket is included, but I almost always just dump hops into the kettle and let them "free range". You can't do that with a plate chiller. Finally, it looks like the rest of the kettle fittings are threaded. That means taping the threads to avoid potential leaks, and occasionally re-taping threads when you do deep cleaning. Not the end of the world, but a periodic maintenance routine. I would prefer a kettle with all welded ports, and all the same kind of fittings. I personally like tri clamps. But still, it looks like a perfectly fine system to brew with for a long time.
 
I just built a 240v system and new brew pot and total was $800. Just added the pump and connections which will add about another $170. Using a Mark II pump instead of the 24 volt little ones. My build link is in my signature. I would definitely recommend 240v instead of 120v. I also like my 10 gallon pot but think that maybe should have gone with the 15 gallon but to get all the Tri Clover pieces it would have been way out of my price range. I am happy to do regular 5 gallon batches and will upgrade my boil kettle when I want to upgrade to a HERMs system. So if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, it is pretty simple to DIY it.
 
I would definitely recommend 240v instead of 120v.

Have you tried brewing on 120v? If not, you should give it a try. I recommend using whatever you have available. I use 120v because that's what I've got access to.

There are pros and cons to each voltage. The oft cited benefit of 240v being a lot faster is really only about 15- 20 minutes difference over an entire brew day if you use two 120v outlets on a typical 7 gallon boil volume. And just this weekend I was boiling 11.5 gallons with 1800 watts of actual measured power (I have those nifty voltage/amperage/wattage meters on each of my elements to measure what they're doing).

120v is cheaper to buy equipment for as well. GFCI protection is easy, you can switch directly without the need for a coil, etc.

For some, 15-20 minutes of time savings is worth it. For me, I'll keep working with what I've got for now, but I'm not completely writing off 240v.
 
Still no update on the Clawhammer 240v System. I'll probably email Emmet again in a few weeks to see if they are any closer to the final prototype. I have already budgeted about $1,150.00 to purchase the 240V setup, and hopefully it comes in right around that range. Looks like CH added some awesome (and detailed) info on brewing with their 120v setup:

https://www.clawhammersupply.com/bl...g/brewing-5-gallon-batches-with-110-120-volts

Looks like they're stating that in some circumstances, it may be impossible to achieve a full boil unless the kettle is wrapped with an insulator, and the lid is left on during the boil. I've never attempted a covered boil before, but they also added some analytical info on researching this:


Also noticed that they are recommending to leave the pump off during heating to improve heat up times. Based on the FAQ they recently added: "It takes 60 minutes to heat from ground water temp to mash and 45 minutes to heat from mash to boil". In what I've gathered, sounds like standard single element 120V systems heat up 8 Gal. @ 2 degrees per min., whereas 240v systems heat up 8 Gal. @ 4 degrees per min? Does this sound about right?
 
I just got off the phone with Emmett. They are currently doing end of year inventory so it will be a little while before the 240v system is released. The 120v version will be available a la carte in the near future so if you don't need a plate chiller, like me, you don't have to buy it. The prices will be comparable to the full kit (i.e. they wont jack up the prices because you are not buying the kit).

I am ordering this a la carte once that option is available, and he said it should be available next week. I will be going by their recommendation to keep the lid on during boil, but I am adding a DIY version of the Brew-Boss Condenser Boss. I'm only going DIY with it because they sell for 150 plus the weldless quick disconnect for about 200 after shipping and I can build it complete for about 100-125. This will give the steam and DMS somewhere to go besides back in the kettle.

Once I get the system up and running I will be posting a follow-up thread with a review and my findings in regards to mash water heating and boil heating times. Also my findings regarding the closed lid condenser method.
 
I just got off the phone with Emmett. They are currently doing end of year inventory so it will be a little while before the 240v system is released. The 120v version will be available a la carte in the near future so if you don't need a plate chiller, like me, you don't have to buy it. The prices will be comparable to the full kit (i.e. they wont jack up the prices because you are not buying the kit).

I am ordering this a la carte once that option is available, and he said it should be available next week. I will be going by their recommendation to keep the lid on during boil, but I am adding a DIY version of the Brew-Boss Condenser Boss. I'm only going DIY with it because they sell for 150 plus the weldless quick disconnect for about 200 after shipping and I can build it complete for about 100-125. This will give the steam and DMS somewhere to go besides back in the kettle.

Once I get the system up and running I will be posting a follow-up thread with a review and my findings in regards to mash water heating and boil heating times. Also my findings regarding the closed lid condenser method.
Great information! Thank you!
 
Ok I got impatient and ordered the complete kit for 850. Probably going to sell off the plate chiller and possibly the PID control box (not for 499) and use an Inkbird but only time will tell. I plan on adding the condenser and another 1650w element eventually but I will see how it does just right out of the box without doin too much tinkering to it. I'll start a separate thread with complete review.
 
Ok I got impatient and ordered the complete kit for 850. Probably going to sell off the plate chiller and possibly the PID control box (not for 499) and use an Inkbird but only time will tell. I plan on adding the condenser and another 1650w element eventually but I will see how it does just right out of the box without doin too much tinkering to it. I'll start a separate thread with complete review.
Very cool, please link to it when you do
 
I just bought this kit. my first brew thru it was this past Saturday. Its going to be a bit of a learning curve. definitely slower then propane, but it gives me time to do multiple brews. (trying to upload pics)
 

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I just bought this kit. my first brew thru it was this past Saturday. Its going to be a bit of a learning curve. definitely slower then propane, but it gives me time to do multiple brews. (trying to upload pics)

What was your average heat up time from room temp to mash? Then from Mash to boil? Even with the insulation wrap and covered boil, were you able to achieve a nice rolling boil? They make it sound like the element produces a weak boil.
 
I just bought this kit. my first brew thru it was this past Saturday. Its going to be a bit of a learning curve. definitely slower then propane, but it gives me time to do multiple brews. (trying to upload pics)

Thanks for sharing! How many pounds of grain do you think the basket can accommodate?
 
So just for you guys ive decided to brew after work on a wednesday. Twist my arm. Pump recirculating, lid closed, wrapped and insulated from bottom to top. 68 to 165 took 1h 40mins. Steeping my grains now. More info to come.
My plan is to set the mash temp and go work on other projects then come back about an hour and a half later. It may take longer to heat up to mash temp, but I won't be sitting on my thumb waiting for it to heat up so that's not a big deal. Did it come with the insulation package or did you wrap it yourself?

I'm planning on trying out Brulosophy's 30 minute mash and doing a double mash for my bigger beers if the grain bill won't fit into the basket.
 
My first brew was an ipa and it was a 20lbs grain bill. I wouldnt want to do to much more. But id be willing to push it. View attachment 554213
Did you do full volume mash? I am putting together a recipe and its calling for 8.6 gallons of water. Sounds a bit much considering .75 gallon in grain and about .5 gallon boil off. I thought Id start with about 6.5 or 6.75 gallons.
 
id have to do some more brews with it to see what the boil off rate is. ive done 2 more and got good efficiency but i didnt pay close attention to water levels enough to share.
 
I just got my CHS system all set up and ready to brew. I will be taking a metric ton of pictures tonight when I brew a brown ale. I will also start a new thread and link it here. Any questions or things you'd like to see during the brew session just let me know and I'll be sure to include it in the review.
 
I just got my CHS system all set up and ready to brew. I will be taking a metric ton of pictures tonight when I brew a brown ale. I will also start a new thread and link it here. Any questions or things you'd like to see during the brew session just let me know and I'll be sure to include it in the review.

Thanks for the heads up and congrats on the new system. My biggest questions would be on timing. More specifically: 1) How long to heat from ground to strike, 2) how long to heat from strike to boil 3) And Overall time for a complete brew day from start to cleanup 4) Does the 1650w Element produce enough heat for a nice roll even without a covered boil and insulated lid? 5) How much grain could the basket hold?
 
Hi everyone.

New home brewer here. After a reasonable amount of research I have settled on the Clawhammer 120V system, as it suits my purposes almost ideally.

While I appreciate the myriad of variables that go into optimizing, for those of you with the 120V, what have you calculated for your boil off rate? The beer smith profile seems aggressive in terms of how much the 1650W will actually boil off. Currently running a series of boils and will post my results.

Thanks for any input.

EDIT: After an n=3 experiments, I've calculated a boil-off rate of 2.202 +/- 155mL/hr. Just in the event that anyone else lives at 500m elevation and can use these numbers.
 
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I have a High Gravity 120v with a 2200 watt boil coil element.
I start with 7.25-7.5 gal mash water and it takes 1 hr to get to mash Temps. Depending on your water temp it could take less or more time but for me 1 hr is the norm.
Clawhammer uses a 1600 watt element i believe so it will take longer than 35 min or 2 beers to get to mash temp.
Depending on your budget check out Unibrau. I think they have a 120v version.
I bought the High Gravity system used and it comes with a 10.5 gal pot. I believe it is all assembled except for attaching the hoses. Check them out so you can compare. Sometimes HG offers 10% off plus it comes with a better element and larger than the Clawhammer.
 
Clawhammer's element maybe a lower wattage at 1650 watt element but it is low density preventing any scorching. As an owner of the clawhammer system and having done 20+ beers on it I can say that it produces great beer and since brew days are generally planned ahead getting your water to strike temp is never really an issue as you can be doing any chores or whatever during that time. Both High Gravity and Unibrau both make excellent systems though so whatever route you decide to go you will be happy I am sure. End result is beer.
 
... whatever route you decide to go you will be happy I am sure. End result is beer.

Thanks mate. Indeed, I have the Clawhammer 120V. I looked into Unibrau too, especially since they are more local, but decided on the Clawhammer system in the end. I was only asking this group to see what others have found for boil off rates, but my experiments are reproducible, so I'm happy. I'm comfortable with the heating times to reach strike conditions, as well as the boil, and the 1650W element is reasonably gentle which may perhaps mitigate any boil over. Will post how I get on with my first brew -- as soon as winter decides its had enough.
 
Thanks mate. Indeed, I have the Clawhammer 120V. I looked into Unibrau too, especially since they are more local, but decided on the Clawhammer system in the end. I was only asking this group to see what others have found for boil off rates, but my experiments are reproducible, so I'm happy. I'm comfortable with the heating times to reach strike conditions, as well as the boil, and the 1650W element is reasonably gentle which may perhaps mitigate any boil over. Will post how I get on with my first brew -- as soon as winter decides its had enough.

Based on my results, it’s been about .5 gallon boil off in an hour boil. Forgot to add that in the reply. Happy brewing!
 
Quick update here after wrapping up my first brew day with the Clawhammer 120V system. The system performed very well, and overall I am very pleased. I missed my numbers by a bit, with an overall brewhouse efficiency of 60% vs. the published 70% value. This appears to not be influenced much by roller settings on my mill as my new IPA is showing similar efficiencies, so I'll roll with 60% for now. The only thing that I found cumbersome about the system is the elevation of the grain basket when solo-brewing, so I installed a heavy bag bracket that can swing out of the way, and this helps tremendously. Quick snapshot of my current set up for anyone interested.
 

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