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ChuckJaxFL's single tier, all electric build thread

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Been at the computer instead of the garage recently. One of the things I want to do is try controlling each pump output by phase-angle controlling the motor instead of putting a ball valve on the exit of the pump head. I recognize that, since our pumps are centrifugal, there's a good chance I'm wasting my time. But, hey, I want to try it anyway.

If it works, I'll use it to control sparge runoff rate, to control the MLT level during sparge, and use it balance chill water vs. hot wort for the chill cycle. If it doesn't work, I just wasted a Saturday drawing up this board. I sent the board off to the board house, and ordered the parts from Digikey. If it sucks, I'll let you know.

Screenshot from 2013-06-16 01:58:26.jpg
 
Wouldn't it make more sense to test this on a bread board first? It's been a few years since I did any pcb work, but last time I quoted a prototype board it was a couple hundred bucks.
 
BrocksHomebrew said:
Wouldn't it make more sense to test this on a bread board first? It's been a few years since I did any pcb work, but last time I quoted a prototype board it was a couple hundred bucks.

Yup. I'd prefer to breadboard first. The Chugger site says those pumps run about 290 watts, though. I couldn't find any guidance on how much current a breadboard can handle, or the spacing between the conductors. I was able to find specs on track width/track spacing for the PCB with relative ease, though.

Quick turnaround boards manufactured in CONUS are expensive; prohibitively so for me. I use iTead. This is a 50mm x 100mm board, 10 copies is $25 for color boards, $20 for green. 50mm x 50mm is something like $10 for green boards, $12 or $15 for colors. Pay them via PayPal, email a set of Gerber files off to China, wait a few weeks, get 10 boards. So, the investment is not that much, really.

The other boards are all 5v & 12v only, I've got some of those running with ATTiny85's on breadboards already.
 
Not a lot to report. Less that I can show with a picture. I got the last of the supports welded across the bottom tier, and the vertical supports welded in. I think that's the last of main frame part of the welding. I expect it should be just brackets & such now.

I've started a very rough Arduiono sketch that read one of the freescale pressure sensor (for volume measurement) via an ATtiny85 via I2C, reads a DS18B20 via 1-wire, and blinks an led via an ATtiny85 via I2C, simultaneously. I have the results of the two sensors being sent when requested from my Raspberry PI. I have a rough python script written that will request those two bits of info (well, ints of info... get it!?!?! HA!!) from the Arduino and display them in text format I guess the next step is to try to get that data onto a GUI or web based interface of some sort, and figure out how to enter a command from the RPi back to the Arduino.
 
I wish I had more to report. I haven't done just a whole lot. Here it is, partially painted, and with the rims tube mounted.

I need to order an extension for the rims tube. I'm going to lower the bottom end of it 1 foot, and turn the inlet to the left, towards the pump you see hanging from the middle keg.

Also, since my last update, I got in on Jaybyrd's false bottom deal!

image-3954046404.jpg
 
Starting to clean up the kegs before I start cutting them. This is more work than you can imagine, the reports of how burdensome keg polishing is are not exaggerated.
image-3641164544.jpg
 
chuckjaxfl said:
Starting to clean up the kegs before I start cutting them. This is more work than you can imagine, the reports of how burdensome keg polishing is are not exaggerated.

I agree - it is an absolute pain in the ass. Not to mention the mess it makes. Lookin good though.
 
Im a jax guy too. Jax Beach actually. I would love to hear how this build went. I am working off a home-built electric HERMS system myself. I am an electrician by trad, so it only seemed fitting to go that route. anyways. the setup looks good from what I can tell.
 
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