Chill haze, more than the norm

[Yooper]

I have found that all of the cloudy beers did have either a Wheat or Pilsner malt in them. The ones with the majority Pilsner vs pale ale malt, basic 2 row, Maris Otter or Golden Promise were cloudy. All other grains produced a much clearer beer. So with all this being said, I'm gonna try a protein rest on my next majority Pilsner malt beer.

Ok, if doing a protein rest, keep it as short as possible. My preference would be to hold it at the higher end of the range (say, 131-133F) and either immediately decoct for the saccrification rest so that you are only there 15-20 minutes, or hold it for 15 minutes and infuse then to the saccrification rest. A too-long rest will ruin any head retention and destroy the body of the beer.

 

[JosephN]

Here's a shot of my Kottbusser, using Bohemian pils malt & wheat malt...

[IMG]http://i563.photobucket.com/albums/ss71/unionrdr/PICT0005_zps3djbef17.jpg[/IMG]

I only used half a Whirlfloc tablet in this one.

What are the details of this beer? What % is the Pilsner malt? How old is it? At what temp is it stored? Did you bottle condition or keg? What yeast did you use? What are the other grains that you used? What brand of Pilsner malt did you use?

I'm not trying to say you're wrong. What science, the more info you have the more it helps to determine certain behaviors.

Ps I'm no scientist, I'm an electrician, but science is part of my job.

 

[JosephN]

Ok, if doing a protein rest, keep it as short as possible. My preference would be to hold it at the higher end of the range (say, 131-133F) and either immediately decoct for the saccrification rest so that you are only there 15-20 minutes, or hold it for 15 minutes and infuse then to the saccrification rest. A too-long rest will ruin any head retention and destroy the body of the beer.

The best way I see to do it is use my 10 gallon kettle on an open flame and crank it up that way. I could start at around 125F, then start cranking it up slowly to the upper end, hold it for a short time and crank it up more. Once it gets to sac temps I can dump it in my preheated mash tun cooler and hold it the remainder of the time.

How does that sound?

 

[unionrdr]

What are the details of this beer? What % is the Pilsner malt? How old is it? At what temp is it stored? Did you bottle condition or keg? What yeast did you use? What are the other grains that you used? What brand of Pilsner malt did you use?

I'm not trying to say you're wrong. What science, the more info you have the more it helps to determine certain behaviors.

Ps I'm no scientist, I'm an electrician, but science is part of my job.

I recently posted the recipe in Historic Beers. You can see the details there. There's a thread on here where we discussed it at length, how we intended to brew them, etc as well.
Basically, 3 pounds each of Bohemian pilsner malt, & 3lbs German wheat malt & it was fresh from the online site I bought it from. Along with the other grains, etc. Stored in my man cave/brewery in there sealed Maillard Malt bags in a dunnage container, whole. I'm still bottling at this point.

 

[Anyhowe]

I'm still bottling at this point.

Wow people still do that? I saw a guy with a camera that used film just the other day too. Just kidding. I hated bottling so much after my first two brews way back in the day that I am not sure I would have continued brewing if that was the only option. Cleaning, filling, capping, storing , cleanup ARG , painful just to think about. I guess some people like it. When I want my beer to travel i just fill up a few growlers. Ymmv

 

[unionrdr]

I also have my old Canon FTb 35mm...but they took my Kodachrome away, & my VR1000. damn. Good camera too...When I get a kegerator someday, the bottles might go up for target practice with my new Winchester...

 

[Gnomebrewer]

As mentioned in an earlier post, I suspect that pH is your problem. The reason for this is that you are getting clarity with darker beers (which would have a naturally lower pH) but not with pale beers. For clarity, it's not the mash pH that matters, but the boil pH. Getting a low boil pH really helps with a strong hot-break. Try adding a bit of lactic or phosphoric acid at the start of your boil - aim for a pH of 5.2 to 5.3 for pale beers, or look for large flakes of coagulated protein if you don't have a pH meter.

Or you could crash chill and fine with gelatin, which also works well.

 

[JosephN]

I would like to give a bit of an update.

After changing from Irish Moss to Whirlfloc the clarity increased with a giant leap. Also cold crashing for 10 days vs 3-5 days made a huge difference. Actually my Hefeweizen is pretty much clear, with a slight haze, just enough to still be within style.

 

[Anyhowe]

I would like to give a bit of an update.

After changing from Irish Moss to Whirlfloc the clarity increased with a giant leap. Also cold crashing for 10 days vs 3-5 days made a huge difference. Actually my Hefeweizen is pretty much clear, with a slight haze, just enough to still be within style.

See post 21 from almost 2 months ago... Folks try to make this so complicated. Mash at 152' for 90'minutes. boil or near boil temps for 60'minutes while you add hops. Cool to room temp; add yeast, ferment at constant 65 ' temp for 10'days (ale) . Cold crash and add geletan if you want clarity. Three days later carbonate and enjoy.

 

[JosephN]

See post 21 from almost 2 months ago... Folks try to make this so complicated. Mash at 152' for 90'minutes. boil or near boil temps for 60'minutes while you add hops. Cool to room temp; add yeast, ferment at constant 65 ' temp for 10'days (ale) . Cold crash and add geletan if you want clarity. Three days later carbonate and enjoy.

It's not always this simple, but I have found gelatin of a great benefit.