Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[JPapp]

So I pretty much read through all the posts on the 10 gallon cooler thread. I decided to go a little easier route, maybe a couple bucks more but way easier than some of the posts I have seen. Bought the 10 gallon cooler from Home depot (44.95). Then went to More Beer - bought the stainless - weldless ball valve (34.99), and also the Kettle tube screen ($14.95). Took out the cooler spigot and dropped in the ball valve (did note have to touch the hole - just slide it in). Tightened and added the kettle screen. No leaks and ready to go. Honestly so simple and easy. Would recommend this route vs. some of the other with multiple washers and braided hoses.

 

[waller]

All,

I have read through this and I know this is old. Some of these parts aren't available anymore. I wanted to run this part list by you to seee what you thought.

1/2" Threaded Full Port Ball Valve 3 Piece SS
1/2" x 2" NPT Male Pipe Nipple SS
1/2" Female Coupler SS
1/2" MPT x 3/8" Barb SS
12" Kettle Tube Bazooka Screen SS
1/2" ID, 3/4" OD, 1/8" Wall, 10' Length White Silicone Tubing

I feel like this is all good to go. These are pieces that I would need to order because my stores don't carry them. I can find washers and rubber rings at the stores here, but not this stuff.

If I'm missing anything please let me know.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[ericbw]

That all sounds right. Like someone said, you might find it pre assembled as a kit.

Stainless is hard to find at Home Depot, etc.

 

[dyqik]

You're now best to get a cooler conversion kit from one of the many homebrewing online stores that sell them.

Personally I'd recommend Bobby's (brewhardware.com) bulkhead kits plus a ball valve.

 

[waller]

You're now best to get a cooler conversion kit from one of the many homebrewing online stores that sell them.

Personally I'd recommend Bobby's (brewhardware.com) bulkhead kits plus a ball valve.

I have a gift card to Amazon, so I'm getting all the parts through there. I'll check out Bobby's. See if there is a price difference.

 

[Soulshine2]

Step 3 - Outside Parts:

- pull brass nipple all the way through the hole in the cooler, and insert O-ring
- apply teflon tape to threads on nipple

- add fender washers as spacers to ensure a tight fit of the components once the ball valve is attached (mine needed 3 washers)
- attach the ball valve
- apply teflon tape to the male barb connector, and attach it to the bal valve

If you dont mind I'd like to offer a simpler solution to stacking washers and chancing the sealed port for the valve...Find a threaded bulkhead union ,may require drilling the hole slightly larger to accommodate but its threaded all the way through.

 

[Soulshine2]

That all sounds right. Like someone said, you might find it pre assembled as a kit.

Stainless is hard to find at Home Depot, etc.

true but nearly all plumbing brass fittings anymore are lead free.

 

[dyqik]

I have a gift card to Amazon, so I'm getting all the parts through there. I'll check out Bobby's. See if there is a price difference.

Homebrewstuff on Amazon aren't so bad either, I think.

 

[kidrocking79]

I was able to find SS washer at HD as a bolt kit in the hardware section. I also modified the setup a bit.. I used one of them offset/spring washers (don't know what it's actually called) and instead of the SS braid, I built a manifold in copper. On a side note, I also added a fly sparge system which works quite well.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Just wanted to say thanks everyone for this info! Huge help!

My 10-gal Igloo cooler from Lowes has a 7/8" spigot, so the seal is pretty much useless. I want 1/2" fittings instead of 3/8" to increase flow speed...
After a few weeks of searching for parts I decided my only reasonable option was to order a kit (yesterday) so I hope this will work. $40 from Bargain Fittings for everything besides the cooler. Bonus that the parts are stainless and the seal is high-temp silicone.

Cheers

Edit: In case anyone is interested:
I used all fittings from online kit except the o-rings I got a 10-pack at home depot.
From outside to inside:
1/2" barb 1/2" MIP
1/2" 2-piece ball valve
#40 o-ring (danco brand) 3/4" OD x 5/8" ID x 1/16"
Washer
Silicone gasket
(Wall)
#40 o-ring
Locking nut
Filter screen clamped directly onto the 1/2" nipple (standard size option, 2" I think)

Put on the tape and then add the ball valve onto the nipple (use pliers on the nipple--ouch). Add the outside o-ring, washer, gasket. Put into the cooler wall and then the inside o-ring and nut. Tighten gently. Leak test. Add screen and outside barb. Doesn't rotate or leak

 

[shaky6]

true but nearly all plumbing brass fittings anymore are lead free.

I have to disagree. Doing a lot of searching on these barbed/ threaded adapters, the brass ones aren't usually lead free

 

[kh54s10]

I have to disagree. Doing a lot of searching on these barbed/ threaded adapters, the brass ones aren't usually lead free

But the amount of lead in them that is on a wet surface is so minimal that it is of zero consequence. You are more likely to develop ulcers if you worry about it than anything from the brass.

 

[jaysquared2]

Just a quick question: In the parts list it says to get a 3/8 ball valve and a male barb adapter as two separate pieces. Would the combo ones what have a barb already as part of the ball valve be fine? They have quite a few of those on eBay. Photo attached of what I'm talking about.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Shouldn’t be an issue as long as the male barb isn’t part of the Ball valve (barb can be unscrewed) also I would spend up a little and get a full Stainless BV and not a stainless brass BV. I believe stainless brass isn’t ideal for potable water, were as stainless steel is 100% safe for potable water.

 

[jaysquared2]

Shouldn’t be an issue as long as the male barb isn’t part of the Ball valve (barb can be unscrewed) also I would spend up a little and get a full Stainless BV and not a stainless brass BV. I believe stainless brass isn’t ideal for potable water, were as stainless steel is 100% safe for potable water.

Ah, I was going off the fact that almost every other part listed said brass (outside of the braided hose) so figured it'd be fine. And the picture seems to show edges around the bard where you would unscrew it so I'd assume it's removable. Curious, why is a non-removable one an issue?

 

[EcuPirate07]

Ah, I was going off the fact that almost every other part listed said brass (outside of the braided hose) so figured it'd be fine. And the picture seems to show edges around the bard where you would unscrew it so I'd assume it's removable. Curious, why is a non-removable one an issue?

It’s not, as long as you have one part that unscrews so that way you can fit it into the cooler then screw it back on. I’ve seen people buy 1 piece ball valves then realize they couldn’t fit it to the cooler.

 

[jaysquared2]

It’s not, as long as you have one part that unscrews so that way you can fit it into the cooler then screw it back on. I’ve seen people buy 1 piece ball valves then realize they couldn’t fit it to the cooler.

Ah, makes sense.

 

[jaysquared2]

Follow up question since it makes more sense to just ask it here rather than make a whole new thread. I have an old 48 quart coleman cooler, but its got wheels on the side that cause some humps on the inside. Since I'd be batch sparging, would this pose any issue? I'd rather not invest in a new cooler (until now i've just been using the 5 gallon paint strainers in a 42 qt perfectly square cooler that doesnt have any hole for an outlet) and have had to slowly drain (with either a siphon or pouring) and sparge and obviously suffer in terms of efficiency hence the wanting to modify this cooler that actually has a hole for this modification.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Follow up question since it makes more sense to just ask it here rather than make a whole new thread. I have an old 48 quart coleman cooler, but its got wheels on the side that cause some humps on the inside. Since I'd be batch sparging, would this pose any issue? I'd rather not invest in a new cooler (until now i've just been using the 5 gallon paint strainers in a 42 qt perfectly square cooler that doesnt have any hole for an outlet) and have had to slowly drain and sparge and obviously suffer in terms of efficiency hence the wanting to modify this cooler that actually has a hole for this modification.

Shouldn’t be an issue. You may have grain sit in the pockets but they will be mixed with your water and still have conversation. I don’t see an issue as long as your hole is placed away from the pockets obviously

 

[jaysquared2]

Shouldn’t be an issue. You may have grain sit in the pockets but they will be mixed with your water and still have conversation. I don’t see an issue as long as your hole is placed away from the pockets obviously

Yes, the hole is on the opposite end of the pockets. Thanks so much for the quick replies. Been very helpful.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Yes, the hole is on the opposite end of the pockets. Thanks so much for the quick replies. Been very helpful.

No problem. Good luck!

 

[Ltkenbo]

I just ordered one of these on amazon prime for $25 instead, all stainless steel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IFKSIWO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Just need the interior fitting and stuff now. I might need to bore out the hole on my cooler a little bit but that's not a big deal.

 

[RPh_Guy]

I just ordered one of these on amazon prime for $25 instead, all stainless steel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IFKSIWO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Just need the interior fitting and stuff now. I might need to bore out the hole on my cooler a little bit but that's not a big deal.

Looks a lot like what I used- plus the inside screen for another $10. Fits great on my Igloo.
None of the local places had what I wanted.

 

[Ltkenbo]

Yeah buying individual brass fittings from the hardware store is expensive, plus there's the surface lead thing (which I know can be removed). I also got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OFCHW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

So $30 total. Looking at the hardware store I couldn't beat that, and it's all stainless. This thread was originally started over 10 years ago before amazon prime and the large abundance of internet companies providing home brew stuff, but unless you can score a great deal on fittings, it's probably cheaper and worth your time to just order a set like this online.

 

[Ltkenbo]

Pics of the previous combo from Amazon that I linked, works great, just had to open up the hole a little more in the cooler and exclude the washer because of the wall thickness. This is a 1/2" setup and barb too:

 

[WestMichBrewer]

I made one of these a couple years ago with a braided hose for the filter. After some batches of use the braided hose is a bit beat up and has collapsed a bit due to being knocked around while stirring the mash.
I wonder if anyone has tried putting a spring inside the hose so it will keep its shape.
I'm thinking maybe the spriral wire spring from a spiral notebook might be the right size and price.
Thoughts?

 

[kh54s10]

I made one of these a couple years ago with a braided hose for the filter. After some batches of use the braided hose is a bit beat up and has collapsed a bit due to being knocked around while stirring the mash.
I wonder if anyone has tried putting a spring inside the hose so it will keep its shape.
I'm thinking maybe the spriral wire spring from a spiral notebook might be the right size and price.
Thoughts?

I used a heavy gauge water heater braid. The inside of the braid goes on the outside of the coupler that is inside the tun. I believe it is 3/4 inch braid. Like this one:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ter-Heater-Supply-Line-EBBC-07M-18a/206527452

I cut off the ends, pulled out the plastic pipe inside. Folded one end back inside itself and close with nylon screw and nuts. I turned the other end inside and hose clamped it on the inside of the cooler valve assembly. I did that in 2012 and it is still going strong. I can bash it with the mash paddle all I want and nothing happens to it. And no need for anything inside.

 

[RPh_Guy]

I made one of these a couple years ago with a braided hose for the filter. After some batches of use the braided hose is a bit beat up and has collapsed a bit due to being knocked around while stirring the mash.
I wonder if anyone has tried putting a spring inside the hose so it will keep its shape.
I'm thinking maybe the spriral wire spring from a spiral notebook might be the right size and price.
Thoughts?

The "bazooka tube" pictured above is cheap, reliable, and very sturdy. It's what I use.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]I wonder if anyone has tried putting a spring inside the hose so it will keep its shape. I'm thinking maybe the spriral wire spring from a spiral notebook might be the right size and price.
Thoughts?

Yes, you can find examples of folks stuffing springs in their braided hoses. Works as expected.
But they use stainless steel springs - that spiral binder would most likely disappear entirely within a couple of brews from the wort acidity...

Cheers!

 

[lashack]

I wanted to share my sparging arm device mounted to the top of 10-gallon Igloo cooler top. I haven't used it yet but I am certain it will work jussssttt fine.

Here were some of the parts I used:

• Drill bit set
• SS Bulkhead FPT 1/2 (outside the mash tun)
• SS Coupling (inside the mash tun)
• 1/2 barb (connected to tubing - inside mash tun)
• High Temp Tubing
• Wort Aerator
• 21 mm or 18.5 mm oetiker clamps
• 1/2 male QD (to connect to pump - outside mash tun)

Good luck!