Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[FlyGuy]

If I had to guess, I think you are probably getting a really bad crush at your LHBS. The fact that using a rolling pin on the grain helped seems to lend support to this idea.

If you are able, try running your grain through the mill twice at your LHBS. Do a small sample first to make sure it isn't crushing too fine on the second pass.

A nice thing with using a braid is that you can crush really fine, and the braid filters almost everything.

If you are going to get serious about all grain brewing, look at purchasing your own mill. Nobody ever regrets doing that. The cost isn't high (as cheap as $20 for a Corona-style mill), and even with the more expensive models, they pay for themself because you can buy unmilled grain in bulk at a huge savings.

 

[kmudrick]

If I had to guess, I think you are probably getting a really bad crush at your LHBS. The fact that using a rolling pin on the grain helped seems to lend support to this idea.

If you are able, try running your grain through the mill twice at your LHBS. Do a small sample first to make sure it isn't crushing too fine on the second pass.

Well, I suspected poor crushes in the past which is why I went over it again with a rolling pin. But of the 4 batches, the grains were all crushed at 3 separate LHBSs - I can't imagine all 3 of them are undercrushing. 2 of the batches involved a bulk of the grain (2 row pale) being pre-crushed (ie, they got through it so quick that it arrives in buckets/sacks precrushed)

A nice thing with using a braid is that you can crush really fine, and the braid filters almost everything.

If you are going to get serious about all grain brewing, look at purchasing your own mill. Nobody ever regrets doing that. The cost isn't high (as cheap as $20 for a Corona-style mill), and even with the more expensive models, they pay for themself because you can buy unmilled grain in bulk at a huge savings.

Hmm. I've thought about doing that. I'm thinking of maybe getting the Barley Crusher mill that northernbrewer sells. What the hell, it's been almost 2 months since I spend money on homebrew equipment

Other thoughts: what amounts of water are you guys mashing and sparging with, using this setup? I've tried Denny Conn's method (getting half of your boil volume from the mash - factoring in grain absorpotion, and getting half from sparging), whereas this time I used (brew365's calculator , which ended up giving me more sparge water than mash water.

 

[FlyGuy]

Hey kmudrick -- yeah, that's strange that NONE of your three LHBS crushes were good. Perhaps there is something else wrong.

I don't think the equipment is at fault since so many people have used this type of design (cooler + SS braid) successfully. Why don't you post some of the details of your method and recipes in the All Grain forum -- I am sure you will find some great help there. Also read through some past threads there on the topic -- this type of question comes up a lot.

 

[jhbassgod]

To make a hot liquor tank would you just use all the same parts and leave out the SS braid?

 

[FlyGuy]

To make a hot liquor tank would you just use all the same parts and leave out the SS braid?

Yes, you can certainly do that. But if you batch sparge, the ball valve may be overkill since you don't really need to regulate the flow of water precisely like you do in fly sparging.

Actually, what I did was just get one of those cheap $6 spigots that most homebrew shops sell for making bottling buckets. It screwed right in -- simple.

 

[Bryon]

Hi,

I know this post has been up for a while, but hopefully someone reads this and can give me a little guidance. I'm about ready to make the jump from extract/partial grain home brews to full grain and found this post about building your own Mash Tun on the cheap. I'm really interested in putting one of these together, but...

One question, does the straight mesh hose work well, or do you lose something by not going with the circular tubing as I've seen recommended elsewhere?

Choose the form to suit your cooler and design. In a round cooler, the ideal shape is a circle divided into quadrants. ... When designing your manifold, keep in mind the need to provide full coverage of the grainbed while minimizing the total distance the wort has to travel to reach the drain.

 

[FlyGuy]

Hi Byron -- you only need to go with a fancy manifold like those if you intend to fly sparge. If you batch sparge (recommended) then the braid works better.

 

[Bryon]

Fair enough, thanks for clarifying...

 

[jhbassgod]

Thanks Flyguy for this great post, I purchased all the all the components except for the SS or rass washers yesterday at Home Depot, haven't had any luck finding those at any area hardware stores. I got the last ten gallon cooler in the store, after being told they were a seasonal item and looking through their selection that only had five gallon coolers, as I was checking out they had a lone ten gallon one on a shelf by the checkstands, and it was only $40! Score! As soon as I get some SS or brass washers I will be on to my first AG. Thanks for all the info.

 

[Bryon]

I will probably try to make one of these within the next month or so... One last question, how do you clean out the braid in between brews? do you disconnect or just run water through?

 

[FlyGuy]

I will probably try to make one of these within the next month or so... One last question, how do you clean out the braid in between brews? do you disconnect or just run water through?

I just rinse it really well. Unless there is a problem with the braid, all the grain stays inside the cooler, and none gets past the braid, so all you have to do is give it a really good rinse with hot water.

 

[jds]

I will probably try to make one of these within the next month or so... One last question, how do you clean out the braid in between brews? do you disconnect or just run water through?

I fill the MLT with the first water out of my immersion chiller, so it's nice and warm, and then use that for most of the clean-up. The braid gets a good rinsing, and I wash any remaining spent grains out. That's it. As long as it's clean and not bad smelling, that's good enough for me.

 

[tsbrown]

I've been following this thread for a while and it's great! Pulled the trigger on my own system recently with a few variations: I went with a 5gal rubbermaid cooler ($15 at Walmart) and a false bottom (already had from a bucket set up for partial mash). I plan to fly sparge and this will allow me to do 5 gallon batches up to 1.060 -- should keep me busy for quite a while.

I did have a problem, though, and wonder if anyone else ran into the same. I put mine together and it leaked slightly -- tightened, played around with and still leaked. What I found was that the hole was not centered in the recess on the cooler so the outside washers didn't seat properly. I'm hoping a little work with the dremel will cure that. I also found bending the ss washer on the inside helped it sit tighter.

Thanks again!

 

[Fender230]

I surprised that the whole parts list doesn't come up as "related items" when you add the Rubbermaid cooler to your shopping cart on acehardware.com

 

[BWRIGHT]

Anybody tried this with an Igloo 10G? Yellow with red lid.

 

[BWRIGHT]

well, I dove head first and bought one anyway. I've got it assembled and it is leaking about 1 drop every few minutes. I've read this whole thread, and now I can't even remember any suggestions for leak stopage. Don't want to use silicone. I don't think it's necessary. On the Igloo model, the hole where the spout was does not have a double wall. It's about an 1/8" thick. So, does it even matter if it leaks a little? It can't get into the "double wall" anyway, there isn't one. Still how do I stop the leak?

 

[FlyGuy]

If I had to guess, I bet it is over-tightened. That is the #1 cause of slow leaks like that. Try taking it apart, re-sit the seals, and then tighten it up again but only until it is firmly snug. It's one of those 'Goldilocks' things -- you gotta get the tightness jussstttt right.

 

[BWRIGHT]

I'll give that a shot Flyguy, thanks for the help. Anybody that is interested, I got my 10G Igloo cooler at GFS (Gordon Food Services). It was 51$. I got all my parts for the MLT at Lowe's except for the 5/8" SS washer. They did not carry them. I found them at a Menard's. Only thing is, they are not Fender washers. I don't think this will make a difference. Also, you will need an extra outside washer for this setup.

 

[gallagherman]

I want to get into AG. Is a 10gal MLT like this one converted here for 10gal batches or 5 gal batches? Should I use a 5gal cooler if I am only going to do 5 gal batches?

 

[FlyGuy]

You can use either size for 5 gal batches, but with a 5 gal cooler you won't be able to brew beers with an original gravity over 1.070. The 10 gal cooler gives you more flexibility, and even allows you to brew some 10 gal brews if desired. Most people will tell you not to get a 5 gal cooler because they are too restrictive.

 

[kmudrick]

Has anyone calculated the Tun Thermal Mass for this design?

BeerAlchemy has a spot to enter this for calculating mash/sparge volumes and all but I'm not sure what to enter (or how to calculate it)

 

[springer]

Just about ready to brew this weekend

2 10 gallon coolers for 32 bucks at Home depot

 

[springer]

Pick up on HLT leaves about a cup when the siphon breaks

 

[uwmgdman]

I'm pumped! I got my 10 gallon rubbermaid and a 12" stainless false bottom. Now I'll assemble my shopping list based upon your list FlyGuy and get building this thing!

I've done PM for about 2 years and it's now time for AG!

I think the only thing I'll change is I'll do high temp tubing between the barb on the false bottom and the barb on the inside of the cooler.

Thanks for posting and providing feedback about this project.

 

[InkPouchMan]

Just spent way too much time (and money) finding the right stuff at lowes... except SS washers. Or brass. Seems others have had the same problem. What's the consensus on other types of washers instead?

 

[capn]

ink
check your local marine supply store. Westmarine or boat us will have them. theres gotta be a couple on the island.

 

[Philip1993]

Just spent way too much time (and money) finding the right stuff at lowes... except SS washers. Or brass. Seems others have had the same problem. What's the consensus on other types of washers instead?

I used zinc plated washers and put none inside. I used a close nipple that was barely long enough (1.5in ?) and put the hose barb inside against the rubber grommet and washers/ball valve outside.

Works like a champ. No leakage, no SS washer necessary.

 

[springer]

pldoolittle , I did the same the Gott coolers I bought have a large hard plastic washer with a gasket on the inside for the spigot, I just reused that and used washers on the outside.

 

[InkPouchMan]

Thanks for the boatshop suggestions, but Westmarine didn't pan out (only up to 1/2"). So I rigged it a bit differently, and no leaks so far. I'll see for sure when it's hot.

 

[Bert]

I just assembled my MLT and so far no leaks

I skipped the inside washer... on the outside (after the o-ring) I used a high-temp neoprene washer (closest to cooler) and 3 "cut" washers. 'm not sure if there's a difference between "cut" and "fender" washers. My HD and Lowes didn't have 5/8 fender washers. The cut washers look the same but might be thicker.

Anyway, all told I spend around $65. Not bad at all.