Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[sarajevskopivo]

With my build, the initial washers that I bought didn't fit over the unthreaded part of the nipple. This caused the nipple to move forward and backward. I had to buy different washers that fit over they unthreaded portion of the nipple (slightly larger inside diameter). Both washers were sold as the same size, but the inside diameters varied. This allowed me to tighten everything properly with no leaks.

I don't completely understand your issue, but I thought this might help.

If I understood you correctly, I have to get washers that will go over that flat/unthreaded part of the nipple?

 

[pdxbg]

That is correct. Some of the unthreaded part of the nipple should be protruding through to the outside of the cooler.

 

[hungry4hops]

I'm not sure if I posted this in here before but I bought the weld-less bulkhead and 3 piece valve from brewhardware.com to make mine and didn't need any washers or use the original rubber washer. Works like a charm

After searching the depo for about an hour not finding the parts I needed or the parts just not being in stock I took you advice and went to brewhardware.com I couldn't be happier well worth the money and I got it in the mail 2 days later works perfectly!

 

[mattyb85]

I tried the HD route first but to me buying 4 pieces (not including mash screen) is much better than buying a whole bunch and needing to use washers and stuff to make it for right

 

[Pie_Man]

If I understood you correctly, I have to get washers that will go over that flat/unthreaded part of the nipple?

As others have said, and in my experience, yes.

Some people have used the build-a-bolt kits sold at Home Depot and/or Lowe's with success. I found the washers I needed at a local fastner store that typically caters to contractors. If you have one of these stores in your area, I'd give them a try. And bring the nipple piece with you. Good luck, finding the correct washers is the hardest part.

 

[jeepinjeepin]

Yup, I just happen to have a friend at a hardware distributor whose wife works with my wife. I call him with numbers, he pulls it, takes it home, wife to wife, back home to me. Love it. I buy what I can on my own but if it is stainless, big, or an odd size he is my go to guy.

 

[RmikeVT]

Just putting this out there, everything you need to fit a Mash Tun

I was able to get everything I needed from Silicone Tube >>> Barb >>> Ball Valve >> Washer >> Nipple >> Silicone Gasket >> Washer to build my MLT -- I think it was all about $18 w/ shipping. I then build a square manifold with cpvc (you could also use copper).

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=85

 

[tschmitt]

I just finished my mash-tun. Followed the original directions. Got my washers at Fastenal. These would not fit over the middle (flat non grooved center part) of the nipple but held firm at the shoulder. This did not cause a problem. I used two washers on the inside and three on the outside. I used the original rubber seal on the inside of the nipple and two of the O ring gaskets on the outside of the nipple. Then I held the inside of the nipple with a wrench and tightened the outside of the nipple with a wrench. Worked like a charm. No leak whatsoever even loaded up to 10 gallons. Firm fittings, no wiggle, nice. Thank you to Fly Guy the OP and everyone for hints along the way. Like go to Fastenal for your washers. Hope to brew first All Grain this weekend.

 

[1776]

Just wanted to say THANK YOU for this easy tutorial.

 

[LoloMT7]

yup thanks to the OP.... i made this Mash tun and have used it 20+ times and it has never leaked a single drop!! These are great plans!

 

[bbriscoe]

So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?

 

[shtyler71]

So I built the mash tun with a 5 gallon cooler a couple years ago and now I need a bigger one. HD has them for $45. Does anyone have a 10 gal for cheaper?

Look on craigslist i just found one for 15.00

 

[CGVT]

If you are patient you can find deals.

I bought my 10 gallon Igloo at a garage sale for a buck. It's beat up and ugly, but it did the job. I ended up getting a second when my local Lowe's put the 10 gal Rubbermade coolers on sale for $28. I really didn't need it, but couldn't pass up the price...

 

[LeverTime]

Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.

 

[agreenmartian]

Pretend you are an idiot, who attached the inner barb to the nipple before putting the washer on. How do you get the darn thing off? You can put a wrench around the barb, but the nipple has nothing on it to attach a wrench to.

I, of course, am a genius, and did not do this, it's all purely hypothetical.

Maybe one of those rubber Strapwrench dealies? Or you can get pliers with rubber jaw covers that won't tear up the brass.

 

[sarajevskopivo]

Thanks to you guys I was able to make it.

Inside (1) stainless steal washer I get at fastenal. I saw them at Menards as well.
3 washers that come outside (these are not stainless steal) and they fit over the middle part I found at ACE.

I hope this might be useful.

 

[bbriscoe]

It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?

 

[Pie_Man]

It seems that most all grain recipes are written for a 3 stage enclosed tank system with hoses and pumps supplying the water transfer between the tanks. When using this mash tun methods, I seem to have a much greater temp loss from my HLT on the stove to mash tun - probably since I tranfer the water 1 quart at a time in a pyrex jar and pour it into the top of the cooler tun, then stir it up with the lid open.

If the recipe says to mash at 150, then online calculators say I need 163 degree water for 15 lbs grain. This gives me a mash much colder than 150. So has anyone figured out what the actual temp differential needs to be from the strike water to the mash?

This probably belongs in a new thread. I don't believe that most all-grain recipes are written for a 3 vessel recirculating system. Yes, some recipes have multiple stage rests, but single infusion rests are also very prevalant and used in many craft breweries. Recipes calling for multiple stage rests can be converted to a single infusion rest, usually with very similar results.

Regarding your issue of temperature loss and strike water calculation, I find the calculation used in the beersmith software to be fairly accurate. Adding water one quart at a time seems tedious and probably leads to the temperature swings you're experiencing. If you're mashing at 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain, then you should heat 18.75 quarts to the correct temperature and add your grain to the entire volume of strike water. Then, stir your grain and when you're at your desired rest temperature, close the lid to the mash tun. If you add water to the grain slowly, then the room temperature grains are going to have a greater affect on the strike water temperature; decreasing the water temperature more than if the grain were added to a larger volume of water. This is probably the reason your calculations are off (I'd also calibrate your thermometers). Every calculator I've seen assumes the grains are added to the entire strike water volume. I hope this helps.

 

[tre9er]

BeerSmith (I don't use it, but from reading others' accounts) has equipment profiles that should allow you to not only set the temp of the grain, but the temp of the equipment (unless it's using grain temp to figure equipment temp, too), however...

I've found that trying to hit it square on the nose the first time with no room for error is incredibly difficult and has repercussions if you don't hit the mark. I've long since started overshooting strike temps considerably, stirring the water (before adding grain) down to ABOVE the prescribed strike temp (ie. heat to 185, move water to mash tun, stir to 170 if strike temp calls for 167) and then doughing-in (adding grain) and stirring until temp drops to desired mash temp. This is simply the best way to make sure you don't undershoot it. Adding boiling water in the proper amount, quickly, to raise a mash temp is very difficult unless you keep it on hand in large quantities, already boiling. You won't denature beta amylase in the 5 minutes it takes to stir down from 157 to 154, anyways.

 

[bbriscoe]

Yeah, my problem is that I've always dumped the grain in first then added water. And yes, I've been there where the mash came in too low and I couldn't raise it so I overshot this time - maybe by too much !. I'll have to change my SOP next time. Thanks for the idea!

 

[madkingchris]

I just built a 7 gallon version of this. I found a 7 gallon Gatorade cooler from Universal Industrial Supply via Amazon.com for $33 with shipping (what a steal). I found the other parts at Home Depot, the SS 5/8" washer and Fastenal, and the other 5/8" washers at Ace Hardware. Altogether, it cost be $71 and 15 minutes in labor. Not bad for a 7 gallon mash tun.

 

[Hulud]

It's probably been said in this thread but I hate te search function on the app. What is probably the highest lb of grain you can use successfully in the 10 gal. Just wondering for future brews.

I have brewed tons of beer with this set up, awesome btw

 

[tre9er]

It's probably been said in this thread but I hate te search function on the app. What is probably the highest lb of grain you can use successfully in the 10 gal. Just wondering for future brews.

I have brewed tons of beer with this set up, awesome btw

about 25lbs. according to
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml "Can I Mash It?"

 

[Pie_Man]

What is probably the highest lb of grain you can use successfully in the 10 gal. Just wondering for future brews.

To add to Tre9er's post, this is another great reference: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/

 

[Frisk181]

I just built a 7 gallon version of this. I found a 7 gallon Gatorade cooler from Universal Industrial Supply via Amazon.com for $33 with shipping (what a steal). I found the other parts at Home Depot, the SS 5/8" washer and Fastenal, and the other 5/8" washers at Ace Hardware. Altogether, it cost be $71 and 15 minutes in labor. Not bad for a 7 gallon mash tun.

That's an awesome price, do you happen to have a link to the sale or vendor?

 

[tinytowers]

I just built a 7 gallon version of this. I found a 7 gallon Gatorade cooler from Universal Industrial Supply via Amazon.com for $33 with shipping (what a steal). I found the other parts at Home Depot, the SS 5/8" washer and Fastenal, and the other 5/8" washers at Ace Hardware. Altogether, it cost be $71 and 15 minutes in labor. Not bad for a 7 gallon mash tun.

But you used brass in an acidic environment....should have gone stainless.

 

[Aschecte]

But you used brass in an acidic environment....should have gone stainless.

This is why when I built mine I went with SS in the mash tun but brass in the HLT as I figured the HLT only contacts hot water.

 

[barrooze]

But you used brass in an acidic environment....should have gone stainless.

You're probably afraid of using aluminum boil kettles too, aren't you?

Nice find and MLT, Chris.

 

[madkingchris]

But you used brass in an acidic environment....should have gone stainless.

Considering the short amount of time the mash is in contact with the brass, it isn't really a problem. If you're worried about lead, and you keg, chances are there is a brass component there as well. My kegerator actually came with a warning that it contains lead, which has been known to cause cancer in the state of California. Since I live in Minnesota, I'm not worried ;-)

One other thing...I did cut the supply hose down so it would lay straight. I was afraid of channeling and a stuck sparge.

 

[madkingchris]

That's an awesome price, do you happen to have a link to the sale or vendor?

When I got mine, there were only 2 left. And I received an email shortly after I posted this that another reader grabbed the 2nd one. I searched Amazon for it, and I can't find it. Honestly, I think the standard price is a complete rip off. If you don't have the patience to search the web for a bargain, you're better off going to Home Depot and picking up the 10 gallon for $40+