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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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agree. just cut the braid shorter, Or you can get crazy and make a copper pipe and make a small square, that works too but the toilet mesh works easier and faster. It works fine. I don't make large enough batches so the 5 gallon works great for me.
 
agree. just cut the braid shorter, Or you can get crazy and make a copper pipe and make a small square, that works too but the toilet mesh works easier and faster. It works fine. I don't make large enough batches so the 5 gallon works great for me.

Does it really matter if it curls around the outer edge of the cooler a little? I can't see why it would matter - I'm using a 5 gallon cooler as well.
 
the only concern I have heard is something about the grain compacting and restricting flow or something. But personally I think it would be ok to leave it long. I cut mine though so couldn't tell ya lol.
 
Does anyone know if polymer is an OK substitute for the stainless steel braid?

(Sorry is this was answered before, but I don't want to backtrack through 142 pages)

Thanks
 
Yeah I went to home depot and just grabbed one; they coated it with a shiny silver coating. Didn't notice it till I took a saw to it. of course by then I couldn't return it. Make sure it says stainless steel on it. I was in a hurry now I'm out $8.
 
Yeah I went to home depot and just grabbed one; they coated it with a shiny silver coating. Didn't notice it till I took a saw to it. of course by then I couldn't return it. Make sure it says stainless steel on it. I was in a hurry now I'm out $8.

I even asked an associate if it was all stainless (didnt look at the label) and he goes "Yeah dude, all stainless for sure!"
 
Is anyone else having a ridiculous time trying to track down all the necessary parts for this? I am in San Diego and I have already made trips to three different hardware stores(Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace), and I still can't track down a S.S. 5/8 fender washer!
Also, out here I'm already up to $80, plus the gas money trying to track down that last part. Grrrr.
Lastly, does anyone know a good place to get an affordable thermometer to put on this? Will any thermometer work?
 
I believe BobbyM sells sight glasses and thermometers. If you still haven't found the SS washer, let me know and I'll send you one. I think I have a couple extra lying around here.
 
Is anyone else having a ridiculous time trying to track down all the necessary parts for this? I am in San Diego and I have already made trips to three different hardware stores(Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace), and I still can't track down a S.S. 5/8 fender washer!

It only says about 50 times on here, including as a link in the inital parts list that fasetnal carries 5/8 ss wahers....every few posts when someone complains I point out, the link, and the SKU number. In the other thread you asked I even googled and provided you the locations of not one but 3 fastenal locations in San Diego....

Once again, for everyone who hasn't noticed....

Here's the sku...http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1171026


And here is the link to Fastenal Locations, so you can find where the nearest is, and walk in and get them. :)

:mug:
 
Yeah I know how many times it says it, and I don't want to order in bulk. I already tried talking to a rep and they said bulk only. Thanks though.
 
I just bought the weldless kit from Bargain Fittings. Took less then 5 minutes to install it and it is water tight. IF I recall, it was like $24 bucks if you skip the coupler, and add a SS ball valve and SS 1/2 male not to 1/2 barb fitting.
 
It only says about 50 times on here, including as a link in the inital parts list that fasetnal carries 5/8 ss wahers....every few posts when someone complains I point out, the link, and the SKU number. In the other thread you asked I even googled and provided you the locations of not one but 3 fastenal locations in San Diego....

Once again, for everyone who hasn't noticed....

Here's the sku...http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1171026


And here is the link to Fastenal Locations, so you can find where the nearest is, and walk in and get them. :)

:mug:

Actually--the fastenals in my area don't have them. Ace hardware did though. Just call around folks. Also--fastenal requires you buy in bulk, which can mean spending a lot more than you need to.
 
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I like the copper manifold idea. How has it worked for you and outside of the copper fittings is every other part the same?
 
In the same isle as the washers in home depot, I found a little 4 pack of 5/8" stainless lock nut pack that includes 4 stainless washers. The kit was $2 but it saved me lots of hassle. This was at the small crappy home depot near me that didn't have half the fittings I needed, I didn't check at the bigger home depot.
 
I bought two coolers, set up one just as instructed. Works pretty well in test runs thus far. Before I dive into all-grain brewing, I have two questions:

1) Should I set up my second cooler similar to the first (except for the braid attachment) to facilitate the sparge? Is this a good idea, or is there a better approach?

2) Is there any similar how-to guide to add a temperature probe? I'd like to be able to close up the lid but still know the temp.
 
1) Should I set up my second cooler similar to the first (except for the braid attachment) to facilitate the sparge? Is this a good idea, or is there a better approach?

2) Is there any similar how-to guide to add a temperature probe? I'd like to be able to close up the lid but still know the temp.

1) Unless you plan on mashing in it, there is no need for a manifold/braid in the sparge cooler. Otherwise it's the same set up. You could however make a sparge arm to aid in sparging.

2) I haven't done it, but my brew buddy drilled a small hole in the top of his cooler to insert a thermometer. Works good enough for him.
 
1) Unless you plan on mashing in it, there is no need for a manifold/braid in the sparge cooler. Otherwise it's the same set up. You could however make a sparge arm to aid in sparging.

2) I haven't done it, but my brew buddy drilled a small hole in the top of his cooler to insert a thermometer. Works good enough for him.

Is a sparge arm really that necessary for batch sparging? I was just going to dispense the hot water from the spout my second cooler into the mash tun. I suppose I'm okay with a slightly larger grain bill to offset possible decreases in efficiency... though for my first all-grain effort, I'm not really that worried about that, either.

Good idea about drilling into the lid. I think I could put in a small rubber grommet to keep a tight fit (without making it permanent), too. I think my existing thermometer may even be long enough...
 
Will adding the tubing inside the braid act like a manifold and increase efficiency? Or will it not have the siphon effect I'm imagining?
 
Will adding the tubing inside the braid act like a manifold and increase efficiency? Or will it not have the siphon effect I'm imagining?

The braid creates the filtering for the grain bed, a tube inside could impede wort flowing through the braid.

The only need for something inside the braid is if you think the braid will collapse. A SS braid typically won't collapse but I run a SS spring through mine just to be sure as I've had a stuck sparge (unknown why - I didn't confirm the braid collapsed).
 
I meant if I cut notches in the bottom of it, if it will create a suction with the hose on the end of the outer barb. Kind of like in my boil kettle, my dip tube will suction all the wort out if I have a hose on the outside into my fermenter. I got a great sparge when I used the mlt as is, just wondering if I could gain any extra wort out of the mlt.
 
Is a sparge arm really that necessary for batch sparging? I was just going to dispense the hot water from the spout my second cooler into the mash tun. I suppose I'm okay with a slightly larger grain bill to offset possible decreases in efficiency... though for my first all-grain effort, I'm not really that worried about that, either.

No. I don't have a sparge arm, but I do use a collander turned upside down so I'm not pouring water directly on the grain bed. (I do a sort of hybrid fly/batch sparge where I try to only have 2 inches of water above the grain bed when sparging to reduce pressure on the manifold until I can't get out more than 2 cups of sparge water with each addition.)
 
So, I just spent an hour in Home Depot searching for all of the parts. I, like almost everyone, didn't find the 5/8 fender washers. (They had every other size)
So I bought "Cut" washers, no idea the difference they seemed thicker. They might even be Zinc plated, not sure. I did see nylon 5/8 by 2" fender washers, would those work or has anyone found a good way to seal both sides.
I hate to be "that guy, that doesn't look at all of the posts" but this thing has taken off and at 144 pages, I just need an answer.
Also, Lowes has Rubbermaid coolers for $47. I am buying 2, one for the mash tun and the other for the hot liquor tank. I assume I can use the same build for the HLT, just without the insides.
 
The stainless fender washer for the inside can be found at Menards if you have them in your area. My Home depot did not have them either. Otherwise, for the outside, whatever large washers you can find will work. I have 3 stacked zinc ones. The HLT build is obviously the same. The upside to this? Put a manifold on it and you can have 2 Mash tuns. This option allows me to do higher gravities since my coolers are only 5g. (of course it means I will be batch sparging instead)
 
I've built two of these with 5 gallon coolers but am stepping up to 10 gallon batches now. Right now my keggles all have 1/2 inch valves on them and for simplicity I would like to make this with 1/2 inch valves as well rather than the 3/8" valve. Is this possible or is the spiggot hole not large enough to support a 1/2" brass nipple?
 
So, I just spent an hour in Home Depot searching for all of the parts. I, like almost everyone, didn't find the 5/8 fender washers. (They had every other size)
So I bought "Cut" washers, no idea the difference they seemed thicker. They might even be Zinc plated, not sure. I did see nylon 5/8 by 2" fender washers, would those work or has anyone found a good way to seal both sides.
I hate to be "that guy, that doesn't look at all of the posts" but this thing has taken off and at 144 pages, I just need an answer.
Also, Lowes has Rubbermaid coolers for $47. I am buying 2, one for the mash tun and the other for the hot liquor tank. I assume I can use the same build for the HLT, just without the insides.

I made my MLT recently, based on the instructions in this post. I did not find the fender washers either but everything else was easy to locate. I instead used plain SS washers with the same ID and it worked fine. The OD was less than the fender washers and that actually worked out better for my Coleman cooler that I used. I avoided the zinc plated washers at Home Depot because I read of possible contamination from the zinc (no idea how true that is but I opted to play it safe.. and it turned out that those washers would have been too thick for my cooler anyway.)

You only really need to seal the inside. I used the rubber seal that was already on my cooler (as suggested in the instructions). Holds up great so far. I'll be using it for the 3rd time this coming weekend.
 
Zinc is actually good for humans, according to WebMD. With that said, I believe the reason that you don't want to use a zinc plated washer, or other part for that matter, is that if the zinc coating gets damaged the part could let other poisonous minerals (lead) leach into the wort.

In other words, it's a necessary evil to locate a SS washer or locate/fabricate one out of food grade plastic or rubber.
 

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