Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[Whiskey]

I know there is a "cooler thermometer adapter" available at Northern Brewer, but it is made for standard 1/8 stemmed thermometers. I have a Brewometer that came on my Boilermaker, and the probe is only about 2 inches long. The weldless version appears to have the same stem.

The issue you will have will be getting the stem deep enough into the cooler once it is installed. I know the sides on my cooler are about 1 1/2- 2 inches thick. The probe would only protrude about 1 inch into the cooler.

However if you still want to go that route, you could could get most of the same parts as for the spigot. You would need a longer threaded nipple, and pretty much the parts used for the weldless bulkhead but you would want to install it in reverse so the female threads are on the outside.

 

[Hawgbranch]

I know there is a "cooler thermometer adapter" available at Northern Brewer, but it is made for standard 1/8 stemmed thermometers. I have a Brewometer that came on my Boilermaker, and the probe is only about 2 inches long. The weldless version appears to have the same stem.

The issue you will have will be getting the stem deep enough into the cooler once it is installed. I know the sides on my cooler are about 1 1/2- 2 inches thick. The probe would only protrude about 1 inch into the cooler.

However if you still want to go that route, you could could get most of the same parts as for the spigot. You would need a longer threaded nipple, and pretty much the parts used for the weldless bulkhead but you would want to install it in reverse so the female threads are on the outside.

I notice that lower priced Thermometers have longer stems. Seems the Brewmometer is best suited for a thinner wall. I will check out the Northern Brewer kit as it seems I can get it and the Thermometer for about what the Brewmometer cost.

I brewed 2 AG batches and hit my temps just right. On the 3rd I was high. But then I realized my digital thermometer ($14.00) was acting up. So I wasnt sure where I was. It was then that I decided to pony up for the built in Thermometer.

Thanks for the tip!!

 

[Reno_eNVy]

I am using 1.5", seem to work fine.

Ah, great! Thanks Gremlyn1. Fastener store sells them for 60 cents a pop. That's a friggin' steal; I think I'll make the outside fenders SS as well ^_^

 

[Picobrew]

Inspecting my cooler before brewing today, I noticed a warped little area (about 1 inch) with a CRACK next to it in the bottom. This is terrible! I was just getting comfortable with my MLT and now this. I think this is from putting in water that was above 180 degrees. The plastic looks a bit warped and then there is a crack. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this or do I have to get a new MLT?

 

[slimer]

I usually put water in it when its at ~140 and then again at the correct temp. The extreme changes in temperature is what causes the warped area.

 

[Picobrew]

Good call slimer. What about repairing the crack? It is very small, but I'm worried about contamination and nasty stuff getting into the wall of cooler.

 

[Spludge]

Hey, another person with a TPB quote in their sig!
You don't have to be all that worried about bacteria contaminants because whatever comes out the mlt is going to boil for an hour.

 

[Picobrew]

I thought I had heard from some John Palmer podcast that there were still beasties that could survive boil. Also there could be flavors and gunk if you had some fermenting mash living in the wall of the cooler...

I am thinking I need to use some type of tape, epoxy, silicon sealant, etc, I'm just not sure what will hold and will be food safe.

 

[Spludge]

Here is a good one, food grade and operating temps up to 400 deg. Silicones : Silicones Unlimited SU5005 RTV Food Grade Silicone - 10.3oz Cartridge [SU5005-103] - EMI Supply
Aquarium sealers are food grade.
Mcmaster Carr has several varieties
I've heard DAP 100% silicone sealant from HD works also

 

[BeezBrew]

Just made my own rubbermaid MLT, thanks for everything. Some thoughts:

Total cost for me from Home Depot was around $80. I had a lot of trouble removing the inner tubing of the SS mesh, however, sliding it off like a caterpillar finally worked. I ended up using 1 SS fender washer inside and 2 SS fender washers and 3 flat washers outside to get a tight seal. No leaks whatsoever so i'm pretty happy, especially considering i have almost no DIY skills whatsoever. Up next, making my own immersion coil.

 

[ytsejam]

Question on tubing for inside of braid:

I got 3/8" x 1/4" poly tubing from ace. It is somewhat stiff and a milky white color. It was the only high temp tubing I saw, but I am not sure about food grade.

I also have some regular clear vinyl tubing, not sure on food grade or temp range.

Which of these should I use?

 

[MikeG]

Just made my own rubbermaid MLT, thanks for everything. Some thoughts:

Total cost for me from Home Depot was around $80. I had a lot of trouble removing the inner tubing of the SS mesh, however, sliding it off like a caterpillar finally worked. I ended up using 1 SS fender washer inside and 2 SS fender washers and 3 flat washers outside to get a tight seal. No leaks whatsoever so i'm pretty happy, especially considering i have almost no DIY skills whatsoever. Up next, making my own immersion coil.

Did you verify the "SS mesh" is SS or is it the synthetic mesh they use that looks like SS? I'm pretty sure if it's not SS you'll get a stuck sparge. Just asking as you referenced Home Depot and I know that's what they carry in the 1/2" stuff whereas Lowe's carries the actual SS stuff.

 

[MikeG]

Question on tubing for inside of braid:

I got 3/8" x 1/4" poly tubing from ace. It is somewhat stiff and a milky white color. It was the only high temp tubing I saw, but I am not sure about food grade.

I also have some regular clear vinyl tubing, not sure on food grade or temp range.

Which of these should I use?

As long as the braid is SS you don't need any tubing on the inside. FlyGuy only used it to help clamp on the ends whereas I just used tie-wraps to hold the braid on both ends and it works great.

 

[ytsejam]

As long as the braid is SS you don't need any tubing on the inside. FlyGuy only used it to help clamp on the ends whereas I just used tie-wraps to hold the braid on both ends and it works great.

Yep, it's stainless, thanks!

 

[ytsejam]

I just can't get the thing together without leaking. My problem is that the hole is off center of the recess in the front. It is low. Looks like datum plane (bottom) was off of the stop when drilled. As soon as I get enough compression it tilts up, thus down on the inside, letting leak through top side of o-ring. .
So now I filled the recess with silicone caulk flush to the rest of the front surface and will try again tomorrow after letting it cure some more.

BTW, I'm using 1/2" hardware from bargain fittings. That place kicks ass!

 

[Hotspur]

Just built this. The first time around, I had an impossible time getting the female barb adapter (Watts A-298) to fit onto the brass nipple (Watts A-786). In trying to hold the nipple in place, I ended up damaging it with the pipe wrench by denting it. So, I went back to Home Depot to buy a new one to try again, and also bought a strap wrench that you find in that area. The barb adapter fit MUCH better on the new nipple, even with the Teflon tape wrapped around it. So, if you have a hard time getting that part assembled, it might be a manufacturing defect!

 

[ytsejam]

Pretty sure I got it ok.
I filled the recess in front with silicone caulk, and replaced the o-ring inside with a square silicone washer I cut from some of that bakeware.
Filled it up and let it sit for two hours.
Just a bit damp on bottom of the locknut but not even enough for a drop to fall off.
I put a bit more caulk into the gap between lock-nut and washer.
I think it's good now.

 

[oberon567]

Just bought my supplies today... will be building when I get home. I am going away for 9 weks, unable to brew, and I want this to be ready and waiting for me when I return!

 

[ytsejam]

Hey, my 5 gallon is looking nice.
Filled with hot (tap) water for leak test and temp test.
No leaks.
Didn't lose a single degree of temp in over an hour.
Siphons out all but one cup of liquid.

:rockin:

 

[rico567]

I just can't get the thing together without leaking. My problem is that the hole is off center of the recess in the front. It is low. Looks like datum plane (bottom) was off of the stop when drilled. As soon as I get enough compression it tilts up, thus down on the inside, letting leak through top side of o-ring. .
So now I filled the recess with silicone caulk flush to the rest of the front surface and will try again tomorrow after letting it cure some more.

BTW, I'm using 1/2" hardware from bargain fittings. That place kicks ass!

You said it! After reading about all the, uh, "fun" a lot of people in this thread had putting together a good combination of hardware, I just ordered mine from Bargain Fittings. Everything is 1/2", went right on the Rubbermaid / HD 10 gal. cooler according to directions, and it doesn't leak a drop.

 

[oberon567]

As others, I was unable to get the 5/8" stainless steel. 5/8" zinc/steel was easy, though, and $0.30 each. So those went on the outside as spacers. What I was able to find easily in SS were 3/4". And the o-rings I bought came in a pack of 20 or so. So, I added a few o-rings on the inside, along with the 3/4" spacer, and it was all good. (I did have to use 2 o-rings and 4 washers on the outside to get it nice and tight).

So, for those of you suffering with the 5/8" SS washers, if you don't follow the advice above and just buy everything all at once online, you could probably go ahead and try a 3/4" SS...

Once I got it nice and tight, it went for 75 minutes with no leaks. Didnt do a heat temp test

EDIT - Looking at the Bargain Fittings website... the kit there was about $15 cheaper than what I spent on parts (not counting shipping). Damn.

 

[tipicreeper]

Last time I was at Ace hardware. The 20mm washer fit over the 1/2" NPT nipple (tee-hee) best.

 

[MikeG]

You said it! After reading about all the, uh, "fun" a lot of people in this thread had putting together a good combination of hardware, I just ordered mine from Bargain Fittings. Everything is 1/2", went right on the Rubbermaid / HD 10 gal. cooler according to directions, and it doesn't leak a drop.

I wish I had seen this info about Bargain Fittings, I looked over the site and this is what I'd use if I had not already made my MLT.

 

[Blackhawkbrew]

I just finished mine! I am using a rectangular Rubbermaid 48 quart cooler. Got most of the parts mentioned in the OP at Lowe's, but had to go to HD to get the SS fender washer fron the "Create-A-Bolt" kit. I tested it and no leaks! I have one question though, does the braid have to extend the length of the cooler? I got a 12 inch SS braided supply hose and it reaches a little more than half the cooler bottom. Should I get a longer braided hose?

Thanks to all who have posted. I'll have pictures soon, I hope.

 

[MagicLarry]

Made one not to long ago... awesome. Thank you so much.

 

[murphyslaw]

Just made one yesterday, quick and easy. Couldn't find the SS washers, but just stuck some zinc washers on the outside and a few o-rings on the inside. Holds the water just fine.

 

[Chips]

Just out of curiosity...where did you buy the 10 Gallon cooler for $34? I also live in Canada (Ontario) and have not been able to find a 10 Gallon round cooler...only 5 Gallons at Canadian Tire.

Thanks!

 

[Blackhawkbrew]

Here's a picture of my SS braid. I was wondering if it's not long enough?

 

[Blackhawkbrew]

Sorry, wrong picture :cross:

 

[MajorWoody]

That's a pretty small braid.
I have a two foot long, one inch water heater braid formed into a circle. No stuck sparges, ever (I fly sparge but I have at times opened it up fully and it FLOWS)