Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[hophead8]

can we potentially get a full updated list of what would be needed, parts wise, to make this work (taking into account everyones issues/resolutions over the past 249 pages). i've just read through quite a bit and got all confused with the different washers and quantities, as well as the braided hose with vinyl insert or coiled copper, clamps, etc. planning on building this weekend and would really appreciate an up to date list to take to the shop with me. thanks in advance.

 

[SDBreWs0624]

this is sweet

 

[mattyb85]

can we potentially get a full updated list of what would be needed, parts wise, to make this work (taking into account everyones issues/resolutions over the past 249 pages). i've just read through quite a bit and got all confused with the different washers and quantities, as well as the braided hose with vinyl insert or coiled copper, clamps, etc. planning on building this weekend and would really appreciate an up to date list to take to the shop with me. thanks in advance.

Brewhardware.com weldless bulkhead, ball valve, nipple, screen. 4 parts. No issues

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

Brewhardware.com weldless bulkhead, ball valve, nipple, screen. 4 parts. No issues

yeah that's not really what he asked

 

[mattyb85]

yeah that's not really what he asked

Sure it is. He asked for what parts were needed. So I gave him the parts I used. Correct I didn't give him the parts for this specific build. Regardless lets all throw back a tasty homebrew in honor of DIY Homebrewing gadgets & equipment. Cheers!

 

[Jeebas]

You can use the same parts listed in the beginning. Just make sure that:

* The worm clamps are ALL stainless steel
* The braided supply hose is ALL stainless steel
* You know where to get the SS washer for the inside (build a bolt kits at HD or here - http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1171026)
* If you have concerns about the braid getting crushed, coil some copper around a pencil and insert it within the braid, or use silicone tubing with notches in it to do the same thing.

Be willing to ask people in the store for help. That being said, I was able to find all of these parts in a Home Depot fairly easily when I first did this three years ago and again just recently.

 

[CaptainBrew]

I agree completely with Jeebas above. Make sure the parts are Stainless Steel. The Build-A-Bolt kit from HD worked perfectly. I would recommend buying 2 of those to ensure you have plenty of the washers as there can be some variance in the number needed for each cooler. I did this with a 10-gallon HD cooler last year. I bought everything new with the parts list I derived from the OP and follow up posts. It worked like a champ right up until my wife hooked me up with a false bottom for the cooler and I ditched the SS braid. For what it's worth, I never had a problem with the braid collapsing as others have mentioned. For full disclosure, I don't recall ever exceeding 14 lbs of grains in the mash with batch sparging until I got the false bottom, so a really big beer could have been different.

 

[Spicemon1972]

Thanks to FlyGuy and everyone else. The detailed parts list and step by step instructions allowed me to build one of these last night out of a 10 gallon HD water cooler. Time to start planning for my first all grain batch!
On a side note, I had a hard time with sealing off the SS braid so I got creative and bought a small copper pipe cap ( 47¢ ), placed it over the end of the braid and hammered it flat. Works great and weighs the braid down so it doesn't float. Tested with about 3 gallons of 170 degree water with not a leak in sight. Score!
If you use a HD water cooler, follow the advice of several others and buy plenty of washers - I used 5 or 6 on the outside to get everything nice and snug.
Also, another way to secure the hose barb end of the braid that I used was to slip the braid over the barb and wrap around the braid with thin copper wire.




If you look close, you can see the pounded end cap and the copper wire wrap in the picture above.
Thanks again to all - this makes it easy and affordable to start on AG.
Cheers!

 

[grasshopperfirestarter]

Just wanted to say thanks. I built my mash tun 8 months ago using this post and have used it every two weeks since then. My brew quality increased instantly and the tun has held up just fine. I only just replaced the SS braided hose last week after many batches. Brew on!

 

[rld04]

Like this build a lot!

 

[jaw005]

im looking to build my first mash tun this weekend and will be going to HD. but i want to make it with a false bottom instead. is there any hardware i wont need or will need now because of it. any help will be great.
thanks

 

[grem135]

I just got 25 ss washers at amazon for $13. They look identical to the fastinal ones posted one page back. I will post the link when I get home.

 

[2ndsilverevo]

here is an idea for an even cheaper valve. it is an Italian bottling spigot, cpvc 3/4 pipe adapter, reducer that fits in pipe adapter 3 rubber gaskets, and a nylon 1/2 pipe to 3/8 nipple. i had to file the bung on the cooler out a little with a half round bastard. also had to tap the reducer with 1/2 inch pipe threads after it was solvented in the pipe adapter. it has been able to withstand the heat well, i steam inject till 180degF before sparge out. and disregard the washer i didnt use it, it was too thick just use one more rubber gasket.

 

[freeokw]

Sub'd

 

[cwdrake]

How the heck did you guys get the inner hose out of the braid?

 

[cwdrake]

Got the braid off. Is it normal for it to be so floppy? I guess I was expecting it to be more rigid.

 

[LeverTime]

Got the braid off. Is it normal for it to be so floppy? I guess I was expecting it to be more rigid.

My braid is pretty floppy.

 

[day_trippr]

Pick up a stainless steel spring or two at your local hardware store (make sure they're stainless) and cram them inside the braid to keep it open...

Cheers!

 

[chuckstout]

Pick up a stainless steel spring or two at your local hardware store (make sure they're stainless) and cram them inside the braid to keep it open...

Cheers!

Great idea!

 

[mattyb85]

How the heck did you guys get the inner hose out of the braid?

Push the braid together. Wear tough gloves. Think that it's like a Chinese finger trap

 

[mattyb85]

Got the braid off. Is it normal for it to be so floppy? I guess I was expecting it to be more rigid.

I put a silicone tube inside and notched out sections

 

[millsware]

I built one of these a year or two ago according to FlyGuy's instructions, so thanks.

However, I was having a problem with stuck sparges, so I bought a kettlescreen and a 3/8" coupler. It worked like a charm. The kettle screen is much more rigid than the braid, and just a few dollars more expensive compared to the braid and other hardware. It's also easier to put together.

 

[AnimalDoc]

I tried to go through the whole thread but failed. I just wanted to mention that HD does have SS 5/8 washers. You have to buy a pack of fittings (washers,nuts,lock washers) to get em. I just built my MLT today and that is what I did. I will warn you that they only work for the inside. They don't quite fit around the none threaded part of the insert that travels through the cooler.

 

[DogFace_Brewing]

Built mine 2 weeks ago

Total parts including cooler came to $83.23 including tax from Home Depot in IL. had to spend a little extra on the SS washers as they only come in create a bolt packs out here...but over all everything went smooth.

Had to trim the outside of the cooler a little to have the SS washer fit flush against it but nothing bad at all and you cant even see it now that the ball valve is installed.

3 all grain batches later and no stuck sparge (except for one issue that was all my fault not the design of this tun)

 

[DogFace_Brewing]

I put a silicone tube inside and notched out sections

LOL tried this with the orginal hose that came in the braid...took it out of the braid notched it and put it back in...BAD IDEA it was stuck the first batch...the braid will be fine by itself even though it seems "Floppy"

 

[grem135]

Get a piece of 14 or 12 gauge copper ground wire and wrap it around a pen or thin pipe. Remove it and then stretch it out some and put it inside your braid. No more floppy braid.

 

[CGVT]

LOL tried this with the orginal hose that came in the braid...took it out of the braid notched it and put it back in...BAD IDEA it was stuck the first batch...the braid will be fine by itself even though it seems "Floppy"

I did the same thing (sort of)

I made my tun with a larger braid, the size for a water heater, assuming that bigger was better. After about 2 batches, I got a stuck mash and sparge twice in a row, so I changed the braid to the original braid.

I thought that it would be a good idea to drill holes in the plastic hose and reinsert it.

Bad move.

I ended up with a stuck mash on my first batch with it.

I took the plastic out and never had any other problems with it, even when the braid got all beat up.

I use a false bottom now because I thought I wanted to fly sparge (I'm back to batch sparging), but if I was going to build one now, I would follow the original build as built by Flyguy.

 

[DogFace_Brewing]

Get a piece of 14 or 12 gauge copper ground wire and wrap it around a pen or thin pipe. Remove it and then stretch it out some and put it inside your braid. No more floppy braid.

Fixing a "floppy" braid is just in peoples heads...the braid works fine without any support..if you get a stuck sparge you are most likely opening the valve too fast is all

 

[grem135]

I still have not done an AG bit I got everything to make a copper manifold and will make it next week while on holiday. Ball valve has been installed for awhile now. Still need a larger kettle.

 

[Bwood1377]

Just built this today and I currently have water sitting in it to check for leaks, so far so good. Can't wait to use it. Thanks for this great build, saved me money for more equipment or ingredients. Cheers!