Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

[Toppers15]

Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!

 

[Pappers_]

Hey Friends. My brother-in-law and I are (deleted text) jumping straight into AG brewing. I'm JUST realizing right now that I don't have the Carapils Malt however from my reading there are different opinions on how/why it's needed. Any suggestions on if I actually need it?

Secondly, it says Carapils Malt/dextrin. I have 2lbs of dextrin - does this mean I don't need the carapils? At what point is the dextrin used?

Thanks for all your help - I'm trying to screw our first batch up as little as possible!

Hi Toppers and welcome to HBT. FYI, we don't use the word I deleted out of your post here. As for your question, using the dextrin will be fine.

 

[Pappers_]

Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!

1. No, in this case the dextrin would be added to your boil.
2. The yeast will work at those temperatures, but for optimal, clean fermentation, with as few off-flavors as possible, a little lower would be best, around 65F. But lots of brewers ferment at room temperature.

 

[brewprint]

Hey Friends. My brother-in-law and I are (deleted text) jumping straight into AG brewing. I'm JUST realizing right now that I don't have the Carapils Malt however from my reading there are different opinions on how/why it's needed. Any suggestions on if I actually need it?

Secondly, it says Carapils Malt/dextrin. I have 2lbs of dextrin - does this mean I don't need the carapils? At what point is the dextrin used?

Thanks for all your help - I'm trying to screw our first batch up as little as possible!

Dextrin is the same as Carapils.

I would use it if you want this beer to be what most are brewing from this thread. If you don't like it; change it after your try it.

I love it. My buddy said it tastes like cereal...but I like that it's grainy. I tried adding more hops but then it reminded me more of cheap beer.

 

[brewprint]

Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!

Ohhhh disregard my last post about the dextrin. If it's not dextrin malt I wouldn't use it. Just go get some carapils

69-72 is fine.

 

[Toppers15]

Ohhhh disregard my last post about the dextrin. If it's not dextrin malt I wouldn't use it. Just go get some carapils

69-72 is fine.

I'm showing my newbie colors. I've confused Dextrin and Dextrose.

So dextrin/carapils is a must?

Dextrose goes in (with a bit of water) after fermentation and before bottling?

Thanks everyone for helping me along and sorry admin for my use of a deleted word!

 

[brewprint]

I'm showing my newbie colors. I've confused Dextrin and Dextrose.

So dextrin/carapils is a must?

Dextrose goes in (with a bit of water) after fermentation and before bottling?

Thanks everyone for helping me along and sorry admin for my use of a deleted word!

You could do as Pappers instructed.

Personally I would just go get some carapils.

I only use carapils or carafoam so what you have is voodoo magic to me

 

[andrewmaixner]

"carapils" or "dextrin malt" are the same thing, which this recipe calls for.

"maltodextrin powder" or "dextrin powder"would be different - it's a non-fermentable extract that mainly is what you get from dextrin malt -- only it would be a lot more of it. It doesn't ferment, but adds body (thickness) to a beer.

I am not sure of the substitution values of powdered dextrin versus malt.

 

[Toppers15]

"carapils" or "dextrin malt" are the same thing, which this recipe calls for.

"maltodextrin powder" or "dextrin powder"would be different - it's a non-fermentable extract that mainly is what you get from dextrin malt -- only it would be a lot more of it. It doesn't ferment, but adds body (thickness) to a beer.

I am not sure of the substitution values of powdered dextrin versus malt.

Thanks. Last question. WOuld a bit more crystal 10 work as a substitution? My LHBS is 3 hours away.

 

[brewprint]

Thanks. Last question. WOuld a bit more crystal 10 work as a substitution? My LHBS is 3 hours away.

Plug it into a calculator and see what happens with no carapils. It's probably going to be close without. I would do that before I'd use more crystal or use that powder.

 

[pwnshop]

as I posted earlier my brew day for this was really weird with uncharacteristically low efficiency (65% or something like that). Since I had adjusted the recipe for ~80 - 85% efficiency I really undershot my OG.

I bumped up the OG using .4 lbs corn sugar to get it up near 1.040.

Then i let it go for two weeks and took a gravity sample. it tasted like feet. tons of nottingham in suspension. the sample was unpleasant. I figured since I had already adjusted the grain bill and undershot OG / dumped in corn sugar i might as well keep going and I tossed .5oz cascade in the primary and let it sit for 5 more days.

After 5 days I drew another sample. Feet. I figured whatever at this point its a totally different beer and likely ruined so **** it. I tossed in .5oz sorachi ace that i had in my freezer and cold crashed for 4 days.

i bottled at 3.0 vols.

Ten days later I cracked one to test and somehow this one turned out AMAZING. I'm not sure how far off flavour-wise I have drifted with the dry hopping and OG/sugar mess up but its a really really good beer so i thought I'd post the recipe i ended up making in case anyone is interested.

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
6 lbs 6.4 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 76.4 %
10.9 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 8.1 %
7.2 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 5.4 %
7.2 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 4 5.4 %
6.4 oz Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 5 4.8 %
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 55.0 min Hop 6 9.2 IBUs
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 35.0 min Hop 7 7.8 IBUs
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 8 3.1 IBUs
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 9 1.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 10 -
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Dry Hop 8.0 Days Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Sorachi Ace [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs

Like i said maybe not too far off from the original recipe, but turned out to be a happy accident. I'll probably just keep brewing this recipe as opposed to the one in the OP since its a really nice balance of all the things I like in an easy drinking session beer.

cheers!

 

[nastee_brew]

Just finishing up my keezer. Ordered the ingredients for this one last night. Hoping for a day after Xmas brew with a friend I'm getting into brewing. Wish me luck. I'll have to update when I have it running in my new keezer.

Any tips on rehydration the yeast would be appreciated. Never worked with dry yeast before but I wanna follow the recipe exactly.

 

[brewprint]

Just finishing up my keezer. Ordered the ingredients for this one last night. Hoping for a day after Xmas brew with a friend I'm getting into brewing. Wish me luck. I'll have to update when I have it running in my new keezer.

Any tips on rehydration the yeast would be appreciated. Never worked with dry yeast before but I wanna follow the recipe exactly.

Dry yeast is gravy. IMHO there's no need to rehydrate. Especially with this light brew.

 

[slym2none]

If you want to hydrate your yeast, heat 1/2C water to boiling, and let cool to 85 degrees F or so. Pour the yeast into the cooled water, stir a little, then wait 15-30 minutes.

 

[brewprint]

I just bought some US-05 and it says to sprinkle in wort.

No need to rehydrate. Make life easy and take away extra steps

 

[CGVT]

I use bottled water to rehydrate dry yeast. I spray some Starsan in a glass cup, pour some bottled water in, and then add the yeast.

Pretty simple

 

[brewprint]

I use bottled water to rehydrate dry yeast. I spray some Starsan in a glass cup, pour some bottled water in, and then add the yeast.

Pretty simple

Why?

 

[snd1990]

I almost always just sprinkle dry yeast on top of wort in primary. The only time I rehydrate dry is when making more complex and high gravity beers.

 

[CGVT]

Why?

Why not?

It's the way I started doing it and it only takes a couple of minutes.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Why not?

It's the way I started doing it and it only takes a couple of minutes.

Several dry yeast manufacturers specify to rehydrate in water that has NOT had the minerals removed. It's related to osmotic pressure killing some of the yeast due to electrolyte imbalance while rehydrating.

RO bottled water is pretty close to no minerals. I use 'spring' or filtered tap. They sell a product called GoFerm if you want to use no-mineral water.

 

[CGVT]

I don't over think it. I just get the yeast wet...

Bottled water= what ever I have in the house. Mostly this:

 

[ja09]

Several dry yeast manufacturers specify to rehydrate in water that has NOT had the minerals removed. It's related to osmotic pressure killing some of the yeast due to electrolyte imbalance while rehydrating.

RO bottled water is pretty close to no minerals. I use 'spring' or filtered tap. They sell a product called GoFerm if you want to use no-mineral water.

Bottled natural spring water works just fine. Just need to stay away from distilled or 100% RO. My city tap (surface water) in Minneapolis has less minerals than some bottled waters.

 

[Ozzfest05]

Clearing up nicely before bottling

View attachment 1451096040120.jpg

 

[arnobg]

My batch is almost done, been in primary for 16 days (went out of town) and just dropped it for a cold crash.

I used Wyeast 1056 and I am looking at 1.008 which seems very low for this strain?

 

[brewprint]

My batch is almost done, been in primary for 16 days (went out of town) and just dropped it for a cold crash.

I used Wyeast 1056 and I am looking at 1.008 which seems very low for this strain?

Mine always ends up at 1.007 with that strain.

 

[arnobg]

Mine always ends up at 1.007 with that strain.

Awesome can't wait to bottle and try it. Gravity sample looked and tasted fantastic.

 

[Toppers15]

Newbie back here looking for help. This is my first batch ever - I started with AG and skipped the extract learning curve.

I'm 8 days into fermentation and I just took a gravity reading. Looks like somewhere between 1.006 and 1.008. Unfortunately I forgot to take a post-boil reading but I did take a pre-boil reading and it was 1.034ish.

I need help trying to figure out when I should bottle it. I modified the recipe in 2 spots to make up for forgetting to order the carapils and having 1056 instead of the Notty. Also - I'm still learning how to use Beersmith and would like someone opinion on what the alcohol content will be. More english and less abbreviations the better Thanks all!

7.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
0.75 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Wyeast 1056

 

[nastee_brew]

Well crap.... long story short, I forgot to order my 1 lb of caramel malt, drove to the LHBS and bought it, then still forgot to add it to my mash. So... what will that do to my beer? My OG was 1.038. So I wasn't far off of my numbers despite the missing grain. Can anyone tell me what to expect from the missing grain? Kinda glad it's the first time I've brewed this, so I at least won't know what I'm missing. Biggest worry is head retention.

Brew day went very well all things considered. Hoping it's still a good beer.

 

[tallguybrewer]

Well crap.... long story short, I forgot to order my 1 lb of caramel malt, drove to the LHBS and bought it, then still forgot to add it to my mash. So... what will that do to my beer? My OG was 1.038. So I wasn't far off of my numbers despite the missing grain. Can anyone tell me what to expect from the missing grain? Kinda glad it's the first time I've brewed this, so I at least won't know what I'm missing. Biggest worry is head retention.

Brew day went very well all things considered. Hoping it's still a good beer.

I wouldn't worry too much about it. You will still have a good beer. It may be a bit more dry (i.e., may finish with a lower FG). Plus, just think of it as an experiment - make the beer again using the crystal malts and compare!

 

[slym2none]

I posted my process in a whole 'nother thread, but I'm gonna tl;dr this post for you all:

I made a 2.5G PG/mini-mash of this recipe, using 1.5# of DME but instead of two-row for the base malt, I used 2.5# of Vienna, with the C-10 & Carapils staying where they should be. Yes, higher OG than I wanted (should have used 2# of base malt) and Notty took this down to 1.008, 5 points lower than Brewer's Friend predicted, but so it isn't exactly to style. Whatever.

What I really want to know is, does anybody have any comments/thoughts on using so much Vienna in this recipe?