Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

[andrewmaixner]

Ugh... that really sucks. What an enormous waste of time, energy and packing materials. So if I want 10 lbs of two row, it comes in 10 separate bags??? That must really run the prices up!

No, he's probably meaning specialty malts. My store has all the specialties in 1lb bags and base malt in huge bins. Hops in 1oz purged bags. If you call ahead they can often do custom packing though, and get an entire order ready to go.

 

[TCollins]

Brewed AG version last night after work. Went pretty smoothly. Looking forward to this easy drinker and will likely be a mainstay throughout football season into summer!

 

[4arrows]

Brewing this as I type this question.

I am looking at the original recipe, which states:

Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 4 days at 68 Degrees
Additional Fermentation: Kegged, chilled and Carb'd for one week
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 5 Days at 68 Degrees

I am a little confused as to the actual fermentation time that is listed here, I know I need to be testing and not rely on the posted times, but I am still curious. Is this 4 days of fermentation plus 5 in secondary and then a week in keg/bottle? or just four days and then keg/bottle? I would love a little clarification if anyone can provide.

Really looking forward to tasting this in 4/7/5? days? lol

 

[TCollins]

Brewing this as I type this question.

I am looking at the original recipe, which states:

Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 4 days at 68 Degrees
Additional Fermentation: Kegged, chilled and Carb'd for one week
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 5 Days at 68 Degrees

I am a little confused as to the actual fermentation time that is listed here, I know I need to be testing and not rely on the posted times, but I am still curious. Is this 4 days of fermentation plus 5 in secondary and then a week in keg/bottle? or just four days and then keg/bottle? I would love a little clarification if anyone can provide.

Really looking forward to tasting this in 4/7/5? days? lol

I don't see that anywhere in the original post. Rather he states grain to glass in two weeks. He likely primaried for 2 weeks then kegged. The reality is you could technically go longer or shorter and go to secondary or not...either way you'll end up with a great beer. I've done a lot of 1 week primary, 1 week secondary, then bottle...has worked for me, though a lot also depends on the style. This being a low gravity beer the reality is 4/7/5 would likely work if you didn't cold crash before bottling.

 

[brew703]

Made this about two months ago. Would like to give it another try but with some variations. I initially used US-05 as my LHBS didn't have Notty. This time, will use Notty or maybe Denny's fav. Will changing the yeast make a lot of difference?
What about splitting the base 2Row with MO or Golden Promise?
Finally, what about dry hopping?
Thanks

 

[andrewmaixner]

Made this about two months ago. Would like to give it another try but with some variations. I initially used US-05 as my LHBS didn't have Notty. This time, will use Notty or maybe Denny's fav. Will changing the yeast make a lot of difference?
What about splitting the base 2Row with MO or Golden Promise?
Finally, what about dry hopping?
Thanks

In theory the english ale yeast (notty, s-04) may have slightly more character than Chico strain (us-05), but both are relatively neutral ale yeasts. Do a side-by-side and see how they compare for you: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=288751 https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewin..._wort_different_yeasts_left_is_us05_right_is/

Dry hopping is going to have the most effect of those three options if you are looking for hop flavor/aroma (which I do).

If you want more maltiness, the MO/GP malt will help some there, possibly also bump up the mash temp slightly.

 

[brew703]

I'm leaving the grain bill as is except adding 6% crystal 20 for a little darker color and will up the mash temp to 152 or 153. I'm also going to dry hop but not sure if I want to use Centennial or something else.

 

[Shenanigans]

Just wanted to give some feedback about 6 weeks after brewing this.
At the time I only had Maris Otter so I used it as the base malt.
Only now is it starting to taste well balanced so be aware it takes longer to reach its peak with British pale ale malt. Also even thought it's a light beer tastes much better a few degrees warmer than normal. Which is what I have observed with most beers I have brewed with Maris Otter or Golden Promise.
Drinking and enjoying one right now

 

[madscientistbrewNq]

Mashed this at 152. Can't say for sure if that is why there's a sweet finish but it is rock solid. This is going to the nd versus temple in a few weeks and then up to the great Lakes steelhead fishing if it makes it. I may need to consider just a touch of a dryhopping in the future. Smells good but I'm big into aroma.

At the end of the day, thank you for the recipe....

 

[TCollins]

After a 2 week primary I just transferred to secondary to cold crash for a week or so. My gravity sample that I tasted was absent of any noticeable hop flavor/aroma. I'm really trying to resist the urge to dry hop this batch as its my first go at it.. I know flavor will change drastically once carbed and cold. Anyone have thoughts on this? Thanks in advance!

 

[brew703]

I brewed this as noted and I thought it was bland- IMO kinda like bud light/coors light. I'm actually brewing the same recipe again this weekend but really thinking about adding a bit more hops and maybe dry hopping. Going to up the mash temp to 153 or 154. My wife even said it was lacking flavor.
Not quite sure if I want to add a different hop than what the recipe calls for or just increase the amounts to up the IBU.

 

[chuckcomm]

Last batch I mashed at 154 for a bit more body and dry hopped with 1/2oz of cascade for a week. It was quite good but next batch I will up all the hops a bit.

 

[Shenanigans]

I brewed this as noted and I thought it was bland- IMO kinda like bud light/coors light. I'm actually brewing the same recipe again this weekend but really thinking about adding a bit more hops and maybe dry hopping. Going to up the mash temp to 153 or 154. My wife even said it was lacking flavor.
Not quite sure if I want to add a different hop than what the recipe calls for or just increase the amounts to up the IBU.

You are right it is by no means a hop bomb and adding more hops will probably be more to your taste.

Have you actually tried it a few degrees warmer than normal? I found that serving this beer ice cold it is indeed very bland but left to warm for a while the malt flavours really start to shine through.

 

[brew703]

You are right it is by no means a hop bomb and adding more hops will probably be more to your taste.

Have you actually tried it a few degrees warmer than normal? I found that serving this beer ice cold it is indeed very bland but left to warm for a while the malt flavours really start to shine through.

I have not served it warmer- may try that this go around. Not really looking for a hop bomb-just want more flavor. I may go with centennial, either as a dry hop as a late addition.

 

[andrewmaixner]

I brewed this as noted and I thought it was bland- IMO kinda like bud light/coors light. I'm actually brewing the same recipe again this weekend but really thinking about adding a bit more hops and maybe dry hopping. Going to up the mash temp to 153 or 154. My wife even said it was lacking flavor.
Not quite sure if I want to add a different hop than what the recipe calls for or just increase the amounts to up the IBU.

I agree. I dry-hopped a 3 gal batch with 1oz centennial pellets, and it turned into a American Pale Ale.
Then I dry-hopped a 5gal batch with 1oz cascade pellets , and it was about perfect 1 week later. Even .75 or .5 oz cascade pellets might have been good enough to give it the needed character.

Note that my in-keg dry-hop period is only 2 days before I pull them and cold crash.

 

[TCollins]

OK I answered my own question. I kegged and forced carbed this morning and its on point. I can totally see the cross over appeal for BMC'ers. This is a two week primary to force carb...I have no doubt it will clear up and get better, but its very drinkable as is. Cheers!

View attachment 1443902641032.jpg

 

[brew703]

I agree. I dry-hopped a 3 gal batch with 1oz centennial pellets, and it turned into a American Pale Ale.
Then I dry-hopped a 5gal batch with 1oz cascade pellets , and it was about perfect 1 week later. Even .75 or .5 oz cascade pellets might have been good enough to give it the needed character.

Note that my in-keg dry-hop period is only 2 days before I pull them and cold crash.

I'm not yet set up for kegging so these will be bottled.
I normally do two-three weeks primary and 1-2 weeks bottle conditioning. I usually start sampling at 1 week to see how it progresses.

THis will be mainly for my wife since she is starting to venture to craft beers. When I made it initially, she said it lacked flavor. So I used Crystal 20 in place of 10. I'm still undecided if i want to add centennial at 5 min or dry hop for 5 days. Thinking about .5 oz.

 

[TCollins]

Yeah I'm totally sold...brewed this largely to drink on game day. So happy that I did. Recipe followed as-is...so well balanced and just getting better.

View attachment 1443989748931.jpg

 

[andrewmaixner]

I'm not yet set up for kegging so these will be bottled.
I normally do two-three weeks primary and 1-2 weeks bottle conditioning. I usually start sampling at 1 week to see how it progresses.

THis will be mainly for my wife since she is starting to venture to craft beers. When I made it initially, she said it lacked flavor. So I used Crystal 20 in place of 10. I'm still undecided if i want to add centennial at 5 min or dry hop for 5 days. Thinking about .5 oz.

I'd say to dry hop for 2 days with .5-1oz cascade. It gives it a lot of flavor without taking it into the APA classification.

 

[jverlinden]

Just served this along with five other home-brews for a big family Oktoberfest. This one was the favorite by far. Thanks for the recipe!

 

[brew703]

Brewed 2 gallon on Sunday. Added .20 Centennial at flameout and will dry hop with .20-.25 oz of cascade for 2 days.
Pre-boil OG was 1.032/ post boil was 1.054 so went a little over but was about 1/4 gallon short due to trub. Need to go back in and adjust trub loss, etc.
brewhouse efficiency was 73% if I figured it right.

 

[Zepth]

I must say this recipe is a real winner. I came to the realization that is a must have on tap recipe when I was changing out a different keg and heard the near empty ringing sound of my Centennial Blonde keg. "Oh crap, it's nearly done and I don't have another waiting in the closet." Moment of epiphany.

Next time around I'll likely split it post boil and toss some Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager at it. Might even remember to update with that how that goes.

So I remembered. And here we go with the results:
I found the 2206 had more hop flavour to it as compared with the US-05 batch. Didn't get a whole lot of malt from either yeast (one boil, split ferment). Come to think of it I've never really noticed this to have a much of a maltiness to it. Perhaps a dash of Munich next time. I didn't get my brew logs done properly, but I have done a couple of overnight mashes as of late - the longer time could help explain that one. Should also note that both the US-05 and Wyeast 2206 had identical attenuation. 1.048 - 1.008.

Also used Sterling as my Centennial supply seems to have run out. A couple adjustments to amount added to keep IBUs in check and it was good to go. That came through quite nicely, I declare it to be a perfect substitute.

As an added bonus it was also the first time that I managed to get this crystal clear. That is until I racked up part of the cake. Fail on my part. Before this I have always had some cloudiness in this recipe. In conclusion, I really don't know. Brew it this way, brew it the BM way, use it as inspiration, draw your own conclusion. Happy brewing!

 

[HowlingHog]

My third time brewing this beer. Did a 10 gal, then two-simultaneous 10 gal batches and now another two-10 gal batches simultaneously. I Went with a mash temp of 152.

I made all the right grain mesurements, but screwed up thinking the orig recipe was for 5 gals. when it was for 10.

Did manage to screw up my hops additions. Rather than .5 oz Cascade for the first two additions on Boil Kettle #1 - and the first addition on Boil Kettle 2, did 1 oz at each. Realized the error of my ways, then skipped the last Cascade addition in Boil Kettle #2. Result is that I used 3 oz of Cascade as bittering instead of 2. Any predictions?

Pitched a pint of a WLP-005 slurry that I harvested from an English Mild. It took off within a few hours.

OG was 1.038, and the recipe targeted 1.039.

A friend turned me on to whirlfloc, so I tried it with these boils.

Can't wait.....

 

[sheephrdr]

I brewed centennial blonde a few weeks ago, its carbed and im drinking it now
here was my version as it is what I had on hand.

6 lbs 2 row
1 lb pilsner
.5 lb Vienna
1/3 lb caramel

.25 centennial 60 min
.25 " 35 mins
.5 centennial 5 mins

us05 yeast

og 1.043
fg 1.005

its a little light for what I prefer but it is really drinkable and similar to commercial light beer but subtle flavours throughout. I can taste the centennial and the grain variations ive never had a fermentation come out that low on the fg

will make again but probably add another lb or two of grain and little more flav hops or dry hop.

 

[astrolic]

Hey man,

Recipe looks awesome! I'll brew this within the next month. My question (sorry if I sound like a newb) is: why is the batch for a 5 gallon listed at a batch size of 5.5 gallon and a 10 gallon listed at 11 gallon? Is this to counter act the yeast trub? If I'm doing a 2.5 gallon batch, should I top my fermenter off at 2.65 gallons instead of 2.5 gallons?
Thanks in advance.

 

[kirbcheck]

Hey man,

Recipe looks awesome! I'll brew this within the next month. My question (sorry if I sound like a newb) is: why is the batch for a 5 gallon listed at a batch size of 5.5 gallon and a 10 gallon listed at 11 gallon? Is this to counter act the yeast trub? If I'm doing a 2.5 gallon batch, should I top my fermenter off at 2.65 gallons instead of 2.5 gallons?
Thanks in advance.

You're on the right track. Everybody loses beer somewhere in their brewing process. Sometimes it's trub, sometimes it's what doesn't get pumped from hoses. It varies based on your system.

Anyways, if you just top up your fermenter you'll end up watering down your beer. That throws off your balance. You end up brewing more consistently if you brew extra beer expecting to lose some along the way. Hope that helps.

 

[Raving_Elk]

Hey guys,

I have brewed a batch this spring, it was one of my first all grain beers.
The beer came out smelling great! I really love the hoppy aroma the cascade gives.

The beer tastes OK, but I do think I made a mistake with this brew, I hope you guys can help.

The beer has a kind of bitter, astringent aftertaste. Also the mouth-feel is a bit 'sticky'. After 5 months of bottle conditioning the beer is still very cloudy. The yeast (I used Nottingham) settled nicely at the bottom, so I do not think it is the yeast.

I think the sticky mouth-feel may be starch from incomplete conversion during mashing. I did do an iodine test before mash-out, everything seemed OK.

It may also be a water chemistry issue. I used tap water with no additives. Our Ca is 38 ppm, SO4 9 ppm, Cl 9 ppm. The pH of my tap water is about 8, I did not measure the mash pH.

Any thoughts?

 

[-Snow-]

Just put one of these down last night, I kept it true to the recipe. It taste fantastic going into the fermentor and the Notty is already fired up doing it's thing. Looking forward to trying this.

 

[Sunward33]

Hey guys,

I have brewed a batch this spring, it was one of my first all grain beers.
The beer came out smelling great! I really love the hoppy aroma the cascade gives.

The beer tastes OK, but I do think I made a mistake with this brew, I hope you guys can help.

The beer has a kind of bitter, astringent aftertaste. Also the mouth-feel is a bit 'sticky'. After 5 months of bottle conditioning the beer is still very cloudy. The yeast (I used Nottingham) settled nicely at the bottom, so I do not think it is the yeast.

I think the sticky mouth-feel may be starch from incomplete conversion during mashing. I did do an iodine test before mash-out, everything seemed OK.

It may also be a water chemistry issue. I used tap water with no additives. Our Ca is 38 ppm, SO4 9 ppm, Cl 9 ppm. The pH of my tap water is about 8, I did not measure the mash pH.

Any thoughts?

My first thought is that 5 months is a long time to bottle condition this beer.
Hops fade with time and take on a cardboardy aspect if not overpowered/balanced by a complex malt character. And this beer isn't all that complex.
As far as the mouthfeel, I'll leave that to the more chemistry minded. But it seems that if you had a clean iodine test then conversion shouldn't be the issue.

 

[Raving_Elk]

My first thought is that 5 months is a long time to bottle condition this beer.
Hops fade with time and take on a cardboardy aspect if not overpowered/balanced by a complex malt character. And this beer isn't all that complex.
As far as the mouthfeel, I'll leave that to the more chemistry minded. But it seems that if you had a clean iodine test then conversion shouldn't be the issue.

Thanks for your reply. I know this beer is best enjoyed fresh and the hops will fade over time, but the mouthfeel problem existed from the beginning. I kept some bottles to see if the cloudiness and mouthfeel would improve over time, but unfortunately they didn't.

I think the pH of my mash has been a bit high. I have recently started using CaCl2 and CaSO4, I will try this recipe again next spring. Any recommendations on what concentrations to aim for?