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Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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brettwasbtd

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Often judges will recommend American pale ale, but let's be honest - your typical centennial blonde is not going to fair well in American pale because it is just not hoppy enough.

Go ahead and enter it twice into comps, once in the blonde and once in the APA and see what they say. I bet they will both say great beer but not really too style :drunk:
 

brokebucket

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Entered this beer as a blonde ale (6B) and took home third. They said too much hop aroma for style (I dry hopped it), but they loved it. Lost out to two cream ales.
 

nygel74

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I did this one this past week. hit a little higher OG and ran out of fuel so only did a 45 minute boil but man does the airlock smell good. Notty took about 24 hours to hit the ground but then took off. looking to keg and crash this weekend. really looking forward to trying it, I think it will be the perfect crowd pleaser for the tday masses at my place !
 

noskodamus

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I brewed this based on the original recipe and entered it into a competition this past weekend that used the 2015 BJCP guidelines. I chose 18A Blonde Ale for the style. The competition had a group titled "American Pale and Brown" that this beer went into. Out of 24 entries in that group it earned 1st place!

It was my second competition and my first medal. Thanks to BierMuncher for the recipe!
 

theseeker4

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Brewing 5 gallons of this today, using BIAB. Only modification is I have centennial hops and no cascade, so I am using an ounce of the centennial adjusting the times to keep the IBUs at 20. Looking forward to it.
 

Ike

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Brewing 5 gallons of this today, using BIAB.


- What mash thickness will (did) you use?
- Do you test/follow pH?
- If so, what amount of acid or acidulated malt did you use?

Thanks!
 

theseeker4

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- What mash thickness will (did) you use?
- Do you test/follow pH?
- If so, what amount of acid or acidulated malt did you use?

Thanks!
I do a dunk sparge with my BIAB, so I mashed in with 1.9 quarts per pound. I don't have a pH meter, and have some pretty soft water, so I haven't delved too deep into my water chemistry. As such, I did not adjust the pH or add acid to the mash.
 

brewprint

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- What mash thickness will (did) you use?
- Do you test/follow pH?
- If so, what amount of acid or acidulated malt did you use?

Thanks!
I also did a 5 gallon BIAB Sunday of this.

I did a full volume mash and boil. No sparge. Hit numbers almost perfect at 75%.

The yeast I use is a reharvested many times over wyeast american ale.

I don't test pH or do any of that stuff you mentioned. Plain city water and I assure you this brew is top notch as this will be my 3rd batch.
 

Iseneye

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- What mash thickness will (did) you use?
- Do you test/follow pH?
- If so, what amount of acid or acidulated malt did you use?

Thanks!
With BIAB you are generally using low mash thickness.

I test pH and adjust with acid but there isn't much point giving you an answer on my situation because it depends on individual water profiles. If you have hard water you will need to add more acid than me.
 

markusreadus

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Keen to have a few sub 7% beers in my fridge - I've only been brewing for 9 months, and gravitated towards the heavy stuff - I thought I'd give this one a go.

Absolutely fantastic beer, I can see why it's at the top of the top 100. Thanks for the recipe!

To those thinking of brewing it, it's unlike anything I've brewed before, much less intense flavour, but very well balanced and appealing. It reminds me of English bitter, more than overly fizzy hoppy beer. We got through a fair number of bottles at a party yesterday, and it was very much liked. And it's much tastier than the mere 3.7% lead me to believe.
 

thadeus_d3

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Brewing this one today with centennial and Amarillo. Never tried that combination, so I'm curious to see how it turns out.
 

arnobg

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I only have S-04, S-05, and washed Wyeast 1056 on hand.

Any suggestions as to which may be best? Hoping someone who has tried one of the options can chime in. I can get Notty if needed, but it is kind of inconvenient at this time.
 

burninator

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I only have S-04, S-05, and washed Wyeast 1056 on hand.

Any suggestions as to which may be best? Hoping someone who has tried one of the options can chime in. I can get Notty if needed, but it is kind of inconvenient at this time.
Last time I brewed this beer, I used US-05 slurry, and it came out awesome.
 

brewprint

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I only have S-04, S-05, and washed Wyeast 1056 on hand.

Any suggestions as to which may be best? Hoping someone who has tried one of the options can chime in. I can get Notty if needed, but it is kind of inconvenient at this time.
I pretty much have only used 1056 and Pacman. I honestly don't notice a difference. I haven't used Notty.

All of them from my understanding are clean. The malt is the dominating flavor of this brew. Hops are just for balance...for the most part.

This is a malt bomb.
 

pwnshop

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So I tried to brew this and the results were very confusing for me...

I have been brewing for about two years and I have always gotten pretty decent efficiency. over the last 6 months or so I have dialed in beersmith to the point where i am always hitting my numbers. I have been consistently hitting around 80-85%. So typically I adjust grain amounts on new recipes that are based on lower efficiency, and I have never had an issue.

This recipe says it is based on 70% efficiency with an OG of 1.040. so I scaled the recipe to hit 1.040 OG at 80% efficiency:

7.2oz crystal 10
7.2oz Vienna
10.9oz carapils (i used carafoam)
6lbs 6.4oz 2-row

this is typically how i approach every brew..

I was WAY off the mark on OG this time and I have no idea why? my hydrometer reading after cooling to proper temp was 1.032. I have never undershot by that much. beersmith says my efficiency was like 65%? I didnt change anything about my process..

I'm wondering if there is a reason inherent to this grain bill that makes it more difficult to hit higher efficiency? I have never failed so hard at a brew before.

I put about half a pound of corn sugar in the primary to boost the OG. FG ended at 1.004. I didnt really care for the flavour of the beer very much but I didnt exactly brew the recipe properly so who knows what it is actually supposed to taste like at this point...

I dry hopped with some cascade and sorachi ace cold crashed and bottled because why the hell not..

I will rebrew this one for sure because I want to get it right. I just want to know if I was wrong to adjust the grainbill for my (typically) higher efficiency? or if i should look elsewhere in my process to figure out what the hell i did wrong?

thanks
 

VApatriot

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I've made this a couple times in the past and really liked it. I had an idea the other day and am wondering if anyone ever tried swapping out the cascade for citra. I really like the citra pale ale I made in March and the wife loves the aroma that citra has, might just have to try it to see how it comes out. What do you all think?
 

brewprint

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So I tried to brew this and the results were very confusing for me...

I have been brewing for about two years and I have always gotten pretty decent efficiency. over the last 6 months or so I have dialed in beersmith to the point where i am always hitting my numbers. I have been consistently hitting around 80-85%. So typically I adjust grain amounts on new recipes that are based on lower efficiency, and I have never had an issue.

This recipe says it is based on 70% efficiency with an OG of 1.040. so I scaled the recipe to hit 1.040 OG at 80% efficiency:

7.2oz crystal 10
7.2oz Vienna
10.9oz carapils (i used carafoam)
6lbs 6.4oz 2-row

this is typically how i approach every brew..

I was WAY off the mark on OG this time and I have no idea why? my hydrometer reading after cooling to proper temp was 1.032. I have never undershot by that much. beersmith says my efficiency was like 65%? I didnt change anything about my process..

I'm wondering if there is a reason inherent to this grain bill that makes it more difficult to hit higher efficiency? I have never failed so hard at a brew before.

I put about half a pound of corn sugar in the primary to boost the OG. FG ended at 1.004. I didnt really care for the flavour of the beer very much but I didnt exactly brew the recipe properly so who knows what it is actually supposed to taste like at this point...

I dry hopped with some cascade and sorachi ace cold crashed and bottled because why the hell not..

I will rebrew this one for sure because I want to get it right. I just want to know if I was wrong to adjust the grainbill for my (typically) higher efficiency? or if i should look elsewhere in my process to figure out what the hell i did wrong?

thanks
Hmmm I do BIAB and routinely end up around 75%. This brew is easy to get on the higher end for me. In fact, I try to mash higher because my FG always ends 1.007. SG is always 1.043.

I've brewed this 3 times and it's always the same. Not sure what to tell you. I even do 5.5 gallon batches with the exact recipe.
 

arnobg

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I brewed this today and had a fantastic brew day. I bought a mill for Black Friday and crushed my own grain for the first time so I got a high 80% efficiency with BIAB. This put me about 7-8 points high on my pre-boil SG so I had to dilute it down a little instead of squeezing the bag like I normally do.

Ended up with 5.5 gallons at a OG of 1.043. Pitched 1056 from a 1L starter at 68F and I'll drop it down to 65F once it gets started. It smelled and looks delicious!

 

turbo86

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funnily enough, I brewed this and after tasting it, i found it to be quite familiar, at least in taste. looked in my personal recipes, low and behold I had the exact same recipe as far as the malt bill and yeast with only the hops being different.
 

acott

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brewed this today and hit all the numbers, looking forward to having it on New Years eve!
 

Buckeye_dad15

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Getting ready to brew my third batch of this. It has become the favorite of the guys on poker night! As fast as this leaves the tap, I'm going to have to step up to 10 gallon batches
 

acott

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This has been fermenting away now since Saturday, I checked it this evening and it's already down to 1.11...going to leave it 10 days before I keg...smells quite nice :)

My house got quite cold and it has been at 63.5 for the last day, hope this is an ok temp, it was at 65.3
 

arnobg

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This has been fermenting away now since Saturday, I checked it this evening and it's already down to 1.11...going to leave it 10 days before I keg...smells quite nice :)

My house got quite cold and it has been at 63.5 for the last day, hope this is an ok temp, it was at 65.3
Mine has been going since Thursday at 65F, seems to not be bubbling anymore as of today. I'm going to let it do it's thing and leave it closed until I am about ready to bottle.

I am going out of town for the Holidays so it will spend 15 days without being disturbed, then cold crashed for 3 days before bottling. Can't wait to try it!

What yeast did you use? I used 1056 with a 1L starter.
 

slym2none

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I am brewing a part extract/mostly grain version of this tonight (2.4 gallons, 1-1/2 # DME, 3# mashed grains) and I hope to have it ready so I can crack a few on NYE. Yes, I bottle.

Wish me luck!
 

acott

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What yeast did you use? I used 1056 with a 1L starter.
I pretty much stuck to the original recipe, rehydrated Nottingham.

This is the second time I've used Nottingham and both times it got down to expected FG within 4 days...BEAST!
 

slym2none

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Brew night went well. Maintenance intensive to keep mash temps where I want them with my system right now, but I am sure I can figure that out. Better efficiency than I thought.

It's gonna be awesome!
 

arnobg

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Anyone getting off smells during fermentation? I am on day 6 of fermentation and just took a look to see how it was coming along before I head out of town for a week and I noticed an off sulfur like smell that I have never had before. Used Wyeast 1056 starter and have been fermenting at 65F.

SG was at 1.017 with still a small krausen on top but no more airlock activity.
 

stansoid

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I brewed this for a second time. I blew my numbers and ended up at 1.50. I suspect I set my batch size incorrectly in beer smith and my crush is too fine (also has a stuck sparge). Regardless, good wort is good wort :)

Fermented it with Yeast Bay Vermont ale yeast and followed the suggestions of the manufacturer for temperature (start at 70, drop to 64 once fermentation is started and ramp back up to 70 as it slows). I got an FG of 1.009 or 81% apparent attenuation / about 5.3% abv. I just kegged it last evening after about 3 weeks in the primary and fined with gelatin. The sample was really good.

I am looking forward to trying it after it carbs up!
 

Toppers15

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Hey Friends. My brother-in-law and I are (deleted text) jumping straight into AG brewing. I'm JUST realizing right now that I don't have the Carapils Malt however from my reading there are different opinions on how/why it's needed. Any suggestions on if I actually need it?

Secondly, it says Carapils Malt/dextrin. I have 2lbs of dextrin - does this mean I don't need the carapils? At what point is the dextrin used?

Thanks for all your help - I'm trying to screw our first batch up as little as possible!
 
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Toppers15

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Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!
 

Pappers_

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Hey Friends. My brother-in-law and I are (deleted text) jumping straight into AG brewing. I'm JUST realizing right now that I don't have the Carapils Malt however from my reading there are different opinions on how/why it's needed. Any suggestions on if I actually need it?

Secondly, it says Carapils Malt/dextrin. I have 2lbs of dextrin - does this mean I don't need the carapils? At what point is the dextrin used?

Thanks for all your help - I'm trying to screw our first batch up as little as possible!
Hi Toppers and welcome to HBT. FYI, we don't use the word I deleted out of your post here. As for your question, using the dextrin will be fine.
 

Pappers_

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Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!
1. No, in this case the dextrin would be added to your boil.
2. The yeast will work at those temperatures, but for optimal, clean fermentation, with as few off-flavors as possible, a little lower would be best, around 65F. But lots of brewers ferment at room temperature.
 

brewprint

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Hey Friends. My brother-in-law and I are (deleted text) jumping straight into AG brewing. I'm JUST realizing right now that I don't have the Carapils Malt however from my reading there are different opinions on how/why it's needed. Any suggestions on if I actually need it?

Secondly, it says Carapils Malt/dextrin. I have 2lbs of dextrin - does this mean I don't need the carapils? At what point is the dextrin used?

Thanks for all your help - I'm trying to screw our first batch up as little as possible!
Dextrin is the same as Carapils.

I would use it if you want this beer to be what most are brewing from this thread. If you don't like it; change it after your try it.

I love it. My buddy said it tastes like cereal...but I like that it's grainy. I tried adding more hops but then it reminded me more of cheap beer.
 

brewprint

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Hey All - newbie here.

1) Realizing I don't have carapils but it says carapils/dextrin. I have 2 lbs of dextrin (powder). At what point is this used? From my research I believe right before bottling? Please confirm I can use the listed amount of dextrin right before bottling and not use the carapils malt duing the mash. Thanks!

2) The rooms in my house hover between 69-72. Is this an OK fermentation temperature for this beer?

Thanks!!!
Ohhhh disregard my last post about the dextrin. If it's not dextrin malt I wouldn't use it. Just go get some carapils :)

69-72 is fine.
 

Toppers15

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Ohhhh disregard my last post about the dextrin. If it's not dextrin malt I wouldn't use it. Just go get some carapils :)

69-72 is fine.
I'm showing my newbie colors. I've confused Dextrin and Dextrose.

So dextrin/carapils is a must?

Dextrose goes in (with a bit of water) after fermentation and before bottling?

Thanks everyone for helping me along and sorry admin for my use of a deleted word!
 

brewprint

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I'm showing my newbie colors. I've confused Dextrin and Dextrose.

So dextrin/carapils is a must?

Dextrose goes in (with a bit of water) after fermentation and before bottling?

Thanks everyone for helping me along and sorry admin for my use of a deleted word!
You could do as Pappers instructed.

Personally I would just go get some carapils.

I only use carapils or carafoam so what you have is voodoo magic to me :tank:
 

andrewmaixner

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"carapils" or "dextrin malt" are the same thing, which this recipe calls for.

"maltodextrin powder" or "dextrin powder"would be different - it's a non-fermentable extract that mainly is what you get from dextrin malt -- only it would be a lot more of it. It doesn't ferment, but adds body (thickness) to a beer.

I am not sure of the substitution values of powdered dextrin versus malt.
 

Toppers15

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"carapils" or "dextrin malt" are the same thing, which this recipe calls for.

"maltodextrin powder" or "dextrin powder"would be different - it's a non-fermentable extract that mainly is what you get from dextrin malt -- only it would be a lot more of it. It doesn't ferment, but adds body (thickness) to a beer.

I am not sure of the substitution values of powdered dextrin versus malt.
Thanks. Last question. WOuld a bit more crystal 10 work as a substitution? My LHBS is 3 hours away.
 

brewprint

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Thanks. Last question. WOuld a bit more crystal 10 work as a substitution? My LHBS is 3 hours away.
Plug it into a calculator and see what happens with no carapils. It's probably going to be close without. I would do that before I'd use more crystal or use that powder.
 

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