Can I Cold Crash and Bottle Carbonate After Cold Crashing?

[BrauHund]

I have an extract IPA that has finished fermentation (2 weeks in primary and 3 weeks in secondary). I took a sample last night to check gravity. After testing, I put the sample in the refrigerator to chill before tasting. The sample was hazy both before and after chilling and there was a fine dusting of Hop Trub in the bottom of the glass after chilling.

I would like to try to clear the IPA before bottling and I thought cold crashing could help clear the IPA and settle out the Hop Trub. I plan to cold crash the IPA, and once it clears, rack to my bottling bucket, prime with dextrose and bottle as usual.

If I cold crash the IPA, will the yeast survive the cold crash and will there be enough yeast still in suspension to bottle carbonate once the IPA comes back up to room temperature?

 

[EcuPirate07]

Yes

 

[BrauHund]

Thanks EcuPirate07. What temperature should I shoot for and how long will the IPA take to clear? I have a chest freezer and an Inkbird ITC-310T Temperature Controller.

 

[EcuPirate07]

Thanks EcuPirate07. What temperature should I shoot for and how long will the IPA take to clear? I have a chest freezer and an Inkbird ITC-310T Temperature Controller.

I shoot for around 32 degrees for a couple days 4-5, really it's best to just look at it after a couple days if using carboys to see if it's where you want. You could set your ink bird to drop to 32 then raise back to around 70 after a couple days if you wanted.

 

[BrauHund]

Roger, copy. Thanks again EcuPirate07.

 

[GHBWNY]

@BrauHund:

I do pretty much what you've done up to the point of CC-ing. My method is to stick the fermenter in the fridge for 24 hrs., then add gelatin and let it sit in the fridge another 3-4 days. Pull out of the fridge the day before bottling to let it settle from handling (and warm, which is not absolutely necessary). Rack to bottling vessel real carefully and you should have zero trub in bottles and crystal clear beer.

 

[BrauHund]

Thanks for the info GHBWNY. I'll keep that in mind if cold crashing doesn't clear the IPA as much as I want.

 

[BrauHund]

I'm concerned about oxidation, what should I do about the Airlock? I know that if I leave the Airlock in place, the Airlock liquid will get sucked back into the Carboy as the IPA cools making the Airlock ineffective. Should I attach a Blow Off Tube and submerge the end in a jar of Starsan? Are there any other options for covering the Carboy bung and preventing oxidation?

 

[EcuPirate07]

A jar with blowoff won't work it will still suck up your star san. Use of of these filled with cheap vodka. I got mine off amazon it was like 3 for $5 or something like that
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ACWSZU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[BrauHund]

That's the type of Airlock I have. So I guess you keep an eye on the Airlock and refill it with Vodka every so often?

 

[EcuPirate07]

That's the type of Airlock I have. So I guess you keep an eye on the Airlock and refill it with Vodka every so often?

How it works, it shouldn't suck it in. If it does it's just vodka and won't matter. But yeah if it does just refill it.

 

[Greytop]

Another method that works for me is to just pull the airlock and place a small, double layered cloth soaked in StarSan over the hole.

 

[BrauHund]

How it works, it shouldn't suck it in. If it does it's just vodka and won't matter. But yeah if it does just refill it.

OK, sounds like a plan. Thanks again.

 

[BrauHund]

Another method that works for me is to just pull the airlock and place a small, double layered cloth soaked in StarSan over the hole.

That sounds like it would work well. Do you replace the Airlock once the beer is down to temperature?

 

[Greytop]

Nope. I just leave the cloth there for 3 days while it clears. It's in a clean fermentation chamber so I know it won't be disturbed and the chances of contamination are very slight.

 

[TripelDubbel]

After cold crashing secondary and bottling, can I save trub and reuse yeast?