Camlock and general fittings question/verification

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rkhanso

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Even with all the explanations of camlocks and various fittings, I still question whether I am planning my new BIAB setup correctly. Here's a picture of my plans for a BIAB system with a pump added. I didn't draw in the heating element or false bottom in the kettle.

I'm thinking I might not need the camlock between the valve and the pump since I'll need the pump whether I'm recirculation to keep mash temps or when running through the Counter-flow-chiller. I can't think of a time I won't need the pump connected. So can I eliminate that camlock? The only reason I may not want to eliminate that camlock is for removing and cleaning.

Otherwise, does the rest of the parts make sense? I tried to label each fitting - though it may be hard to read.

Any suggested changes?

Thanks.

IMG_20170911_174403.jpg
 
I wouldn't skimp on the cam lock you'll be talking to yourself after the second time you take it apart to clean it. Think of cam locks like franks hot sauce, put that sh%^ on everything
 
I could be wrong, but I thought pumps need to be located below to valve to help with priming. With my pump, it was recommended to set it up that way. I have a mark II
 
I could be wrong, but I thought pumps need to be located below to valve to help with priming. With my pump, it was recommended to set it up that way. I have a mark II
I haven't test it, but I'm suspecting that since the pump is below the top level of the wort that it should prime OK. I'm using a cheap brown solar pump. Plus the distance is pretty short to the wort - not like it would be if I mounted the pump at the bottom of a work-table.

However, I could be completely wrong about this.
 
I would put the pump completely below the vessel. Mine are and I still have to play with it sometimes to prime...also consider adding a Tee on the pump output side with a valve on each branch...this way you can purge air/prime with ease. You WILL need it and it saves A LOT of headache.
 
I would put in the extra camlock. My pump is male-male camlocks, and all my hoses are female on both ends, which facilitates a variety of configurations. At this point, the price difference is what, $10? You can never have too many camlock fittings around.
 
You'll absolutely need to regularly dismantle the pump to clean it out, and to dismantle the valve to clean that out as well. That will be easier with a camlock pair in-between.

Putting a male camlock on the outlet of the kettle, female on the pump inlet, and male on the pump outlet lets you connect hoses without the pump inline if you want. If you want to use the pump with hoses elsewhere, you can connect a back-to-back male camlock fitting pair to the inlet of the pump.

I also use a pump for cleaning beer lines with BLC - I happen to have a spare little tan pump for that, as I upgraded to the 24V kind on the brewery itself - but a camlocked pump would be usable for that as well as for the brewery.

BTW, the most important thing for priming is a having an escape route for the air trapped in the inlet to the pump. You'll want to mount your pump on the valve with the outlet facing up. That's easy with a camlock pair between the valve and the pump. Otherwise, you are reliant on the threads binding up at the right angle.
 
I wouldn't skimp on the cam lock you'll be talking to yourself after the second time you take it apart to clean it. Think of cam locks like franks hot sauce, put that sh%^ on everything

This gets my vote :mug:

As for the proposed pump placement I've seen those little DC pumps hanging off all kinds of vessels so it must work reasonably well. But I'd still stick a cam lock set in front of it...

Cheers!
 
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