Brewed something yesterday I've never tried before doing an AG Milkshake IPA. I hit my normal 70% efficiency numbers spot-on and the brew day went pretty smooth except for one little snafu. During the boil I stepped away for about 10 minutes and came back to find the flame was out. The wort temp was down to about 190 after boiling for 20 minutes. Temp outside was pretty cold at 35 in Wisconsin. There wasn't much wind, so I don't think that caused the flameout. When I tried turning off the propane tank and turning it back on, there was nothing. I swapped out with another tank I had and still couldn't get any flame or hear any propane coming out of the burner. I was thinking maybe the flame setting red dial was broken or malfunctioning, but not entirely sure. Eventually after much fiddling around, suddenly it started working. I did panic a bit when this was happening because I don't have a secondary burner and was quite relieved when magically it starting working again. However I'd prefer that this doesn't happen again and wondering if anyone has any ideas what may have caused this? This burner is a few years old and still in good shape, but I haven't done any maintenance to it and not sure if I should be doing something to keep it working well?
Burner Fun
- Thread starter sbsmann
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Given the cold temperature I wonder if your propane cylinder was freezing up...
I used to have similar symptoms w/ a barbecue grill I had. I'd turn it on and get a wimpy flame.
The problem was the regulator. The fix was to turn off the tank, remove the line from the tank then reinstall it. For whatever reason relieving the pressure on the tank side of the regulator got things going back to normal.
I wouldn't look to your burner for issues; it's almost certainly the line/regulator to the burner.
The problem was the regulator. The fix was to turn off the tank, remove the line from the tank then reinstall it. For whatever reason relieving the pressure on the tank side of the regulator got things going back to normal.
I wouldn't look to your burner for issues; it's almost certainly the line/regulator to the burner.
As far as not restarting, some have safety lockouts so you must have the control valve closed when opening the tank valve. If you open the control valve first it will not send gas to the burner.
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sbsmann
Well-Known Member
Interesting. This may be the issue. I think when it finally worked I may have turned down the control valve all the way closed before turning the gas valve back on. It kind of makes sense to not have the control valve cranked way up when shutting the tank gas valve back on.
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sbsmann
Well-Known Member
Definitely possible.
AkTom
Well-Known Member
I can only wish 35 was cold for me. I brew outside at 10* and have never had that happen. I think it’s the regulator.
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
all newer (15 years or so or newer) 20 pound propane tanks have a golfball sized safety float which will cut MOST of the gas flow out of the tank if you open the tank valve after the burner valve has already been opened this works a lot like the ball in a shop vac that cuts flow it its tipped or too full .. this results in a super weak flame and quite honestly, many ignorant people replacing their grills and burners for no reason other than not reading the directions that came with it. I know I screwed with a burner for 30 minutes myself before learning this at a party.
There are a handful of threads on here explaining this as well if you want to search for more info.. just search "weak flame" and im sure they will come up.
There are a handful of threads on here explaining this as well if you want to search for more info.. just search "weak flame" and im sure they will come up.
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sbsmann
Well-Known Member
Thanks man, good info. I will dig around and read up on it. It was a bit of a stressful and annoying delay to an otherwise perfect brew day!
As well, if a regulator comes with a plastic (ACME) coupling nut there is an Excessive Flow Preventer inside the nut in the form of a spring-loaded ball check valve. It will often activate if the regulator is opened before the cylinder valve is opened, with the result being a very weak flame from a connected burner.
To reset the EFP, close the cylinder valve, close the regulator, then slowly open the cylinder valve and finally open the regulator...
Cheers!
To reset the EFP, close the cylinder valve, close the regulator, then slowly open the cylinder valve and finally open the regulator...
Cheers!
