Building kegerator soon, a few questions.

Brewer's Friend 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Scriv

Scriv

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
461
Reaction score
120
Location
Modesto
I'll be acquiring a full size freezer top fridge soon and am planning on converting it to a 4 tap kegerator, how important is the shank length? I was planning to just order a set of 5" and run them through the fridge door and a 2x4 for support inside the fridge. How useful is a pressure adjustable manifold? There's a big price difference between just a 4 way and a 4 way adjustable.

Thanks!
 
You should just get a shank that is long enough to clear the width of the door and allows maybe 1" max for nut clearance. Typically, I've found 4" to be the cheapest and is always acquitted.

I'm not clear, what is the 2x4 supporting? the Carboys/Fermenters?

Pressure adjustable manifold? I use the Perlick 650ss, it has a flow adjustment on the tap itself so you can over carb and recover on the pour: Provide me with a link on the adjustable manifold, i'm interested...

12277.png
 
The 2x4 would be inside the fridge door, so the shank would go through the metal door skin, the foam insulation, plastic liner, then the 2x4 for rigidity. Or is this idea overkill?

I called the manifold the wrong thing, I guess it's a secondary regulator like this one, let's you set different pressure on each corny.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/secondary-regulator-4.html?site_id=7
 
2x4 is way overkill, 1x is more than plenty even.

The secondary is nice, allows you to carb and serve at different pressures.

Fwiw, I don't brace the shanks on my door, and just have a 3-way manifold.

It all depends on how far you want to push it, and if you have the budget.
 
Scriv said:
I called the manifold the wrong thing, I guess it's a secondary regulator like this one, let's you set different pressure on each corny.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/secondary-regulator-4.html?site_id=7
Click to expand...

The 4-way secondary regulator is only overkill until you need it. :D I guess it depends on how true to style you like your beer. If you have a stout, an IPA, and a lager in your kegerator, it would be nice to have multiple pressures.


But you can definitely make it work with the same pressure. But your stout may be over carb'd for style, or the lager under carb'd.
 
I wish that i would have gone with at least a dual secondary pressure gauge on my CO2 tank, but really wish i had an individual secondary per keg.

I say if you have the funds go for the 4 way secondary regulator set up. This is the one i have been looking at, with check valves. Stay away from the KegCo stuff, you'll regret it if you go with them.

You will still need a regulator on the CO2 tank.
 
Scriv said:
The 2x4 would be inside the fridge door, so the shank would go through the metal door skin, the foam insulation, plastic liner, then the 2x4 for rigidity. Or is this idea overkill?

I called the manifold the wrong thing, I guess it's a secondary regulator like this one, let's you set different pressure on each corny.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/secondary-regulator-4.html?site_id=7
Click to expand...
I didn't brace mine, and well admittedly weak, no one is really tugging on it and it has not been a problem. But if you have the resources and want a strong fix, yeah go for it!

Ah! I believe that is a step down regulator. I have my primary regulator set at 30 for soda, then a dual step down, each hooked up to a 3 port manifold, so I have 7 ports at 3 different pressures. You might be able to save some money with a single step down and manifold... but your idea will provide a nice set up either way.
 
I am just getting into mine as well. I don't have any issues with my shanks on the door not feeling rigid. I used a large washer drilled out to 15/16s though. I got a splitter for my current 2 tap plans. I'm pretty laid back about the need for different serving pressures, and just saw the need to isolate for carbonating one vs the other being able to just serve. I'll forgo serving one a few days until the other is carbed.

Here is what I bought.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've have been happy to have a three-way secondary regulator in my three-keg kegerator. I have either a soda or higher-carb beer (weissebier or belgian) on tap with enough frequency that I feel it was worthwhile, and it's nice to have the option of tweaking other beers a bit too if I feel like it, and carbing one while serving the other two.

I agree with the comment about avoiding off-brand regulators, unreliable CO2 equipment can be a nightmare. Go with Micromatic (top of the line) or Taprite (a bit cheaper, equally well reviewed as far as I could determine so that's what I bought). I bought mine from beveragefactory, they had the best prices on Taprite secondaries a year or two ago when I was looking. If you go with them, they'll also at least consider price-matching if you find a better price anywhere else. Here's their 4-way secondary (with check valves).

I haven't looked into it closely, but my impression is that manifolds cost enough that the savings of buying a dual-pressure primary like this and then attaching it to manifolds or Y-splitters wouldn't be worth the hassle. But it could be worth brief consideration if you're looking to save a bit more and can live with slightly less pressure control.
 
I got my kegging stuff basically for free, so I was trying to keep my regulator, at least at first, but that dual reg setup is nice and affordable looking, and if buying all new, I would go that route. My regulator is a little basic and worse for wear, but it works. I'm trying to spread my purchases out some to avoid arousing suspicion with SWMBO
 
christyle said:
I got my kegging stuff basically for free, so I was trying to keep my regulator, at least at first, but that dual reg setup is nice and affordable looking, and if buying all new, I would go that route. My regulator is a little basic and worse for wear, but it works. I'm trying to spread my purchases out some to avoid arousing suspicion with SWMBO
Click to expand...

There's no shame in minimizing costs! If you've already got a functional primary regulator, then it makes sense to work with that.

Note that as discussed here the primary regulator needs to be at least 5 PSI higher than the highest secondary regulator. So if you want one of your secondaries at 15 PSI, the primary regulator would need to be no less than 20 PSI. This only matters if you were thinking about adding a y-splitter to your primary and then running a keg off the primary and 3 kegs off the secondar(ies). I bring this up because this was my plan until I learned about the pressure differential requirement, at which point I scrapped the idea of running any kegs directly off of the primary.
 
The fridge will be from Craigslist, and we plan to use the additional freezer space. An upright freezer would be nice but out of the swmbo budget.
 
If you want to stiffen the door for tap mounts, bond a piece of metal to the inside of the door, and pick up all your mount holes for the taps through both pieces at the same time.
"Pilot hole" from the outside, using your tap spacing, and final hole size from the inside, ( if unsure of your bond strength).
Give it 2 inches all around, and your tap mounts will be hell for stout!

Think of it as a giant washer.................
 
Another question: I'm going to run 1/4 flare nuts on the gas lines, I see places selling nylon flare washers. Are these required?
 
My taprite equipment from keg connection .com came with them... So I'd say yes, for that extra leak protection....
 
Scriv said:
Another question: I'm going to run 1/4 flare nuts on the gas lines, I see places selling nylon flare washers. Are these required?
Click to expand...


MFL washers are necessary if you've got a metal to metal connection to minimize leaks. Where you attach the flare nut on a gas line to the regulator (or the flare nut on a beer line to the tailpiece on the shank) you'll almost certainly be attaching metal to metal and you'll want a washer. But if you're screwing your flare nut onto a disconnect with a plastic tip (like these) you don't need washers.
 
A dual regulator primary or a primary regulator with at least one secondary regulator would the minimal buy in. A gang secondary is nice but a secondary with a manifold will work too. For me it is just easier to set all of my kegs to the same pressure so I can use a single line length for all taps and can easily swap out kegs. I have a WYE off my primary with one leg going to a single secondary regulator with a manifold and the other leg has a check valve and gas disconnect. I leave the primary set at 30PSI and the secondary set at 12PSI. The one line with the disconnect is dedicated for seating the lids on the kegs.
 
ba-brewer said:
A dual regulator primary or a primary regulator with at least one secondary regulator would the minimal buy in. A gang secondary is nice but a secondary with a manifold will work too. For me it is just easier to set all of my kegs to the same pressure so I can use a single line length for all taps and can easily swap out kegs. I have a WYE off my primary with one leg going to a single secondary regulator with a manifold and the other leg has a check valve and gas disconnect. I leave the primary set at 30PSI and the secondary set at 12PSI. The one line with the disconnect is dedicated for seating the lids on the kegs.
Click to expand...

If you don't care to set different PSI for your different kegs though, couldn't you achieve this without the secondary regulator? Buy a primary with wye splitter, attach a 4-way manifold to one leg to run the kegs, and a gas disconnect to the other leg for sealing kegs or other high-pressure needs. Normally the primary would be set at 12 PSI, the manifold leg would be open (providing pressure to the kegs) and the gas disconnect leg would be closed. If you needed to seal a keg you'd close the manifold leg, turn the primary up to 30, and open the gas disconnect leg.

A bit more work but this would save another $50 (cost of a basic Taprite secondary regulator).
 
Yes that would work and for 4 kegs it might be OK to mess around with the pressure and turning kegs off and on, but it is messing around. If you want to save more money dont buy the WYE or disconnect and just use the check valves on the manifold to turn off other ports on/off.

I started with just the primary and did the turning kegs off and on and messing with the pressure but it got old quick. I dont think I ever forgot to set the pressure back to 12PSI, but I did forget to turn the other kegs back on. Yes it is a convenience, but for me the $50 was money well spent and I wish I did it up front. It is usually easier to add things up front then add them later when you got a system already working.
 
ba-brewer said:
Yes it is a convenience, but for me the $50 was money well spent and I wish I did it up front. It is usually easier to add things up front then add them later when you got a system already working.
Click to expand...

I hear you, when I got into kegging I considered a bunch of convoluted money saving systems but ultimately jumped right to a dedicated primary regulator plus a three-unit secondary for my three-keg system. Over time the ability to set each keg as I wish and not have to mess around in the tight confines of my small vintage fridge has paid for itself and more!

That said, if finances are a serious obstacle there are ways to get a relatively versatile system "on the cheap."
 
Scored a fridge today, and ordered the shanks, beer line, and ball lock disconnects. 4 Perlick 630SS taps arrived yesterday. It's finally starting to come together!
 
ba-brewer said:
Looks pretty roomy in there. How many kegs can it fit, you going to put the CO2 inside too?
Click to expand...

It'll hold at least 4 corny kegs and a 20# co2 cylinder, or 5 cornies with the co2 outside. I'm planning on 4 and co2 inside.
 
ba-brewer said:
Having the CO2 inside is easier to deal with, but having an extra keg inside chilling is nice to have to keep all of the taps online.
Click to expand...

I've done both...

I have determined that outside works best. inside: Kegs get kicked around, lines get pulled, regulators get damaged. Outside: you strap it down and let it be. :rockin: Plus the regulator seems to collect available moisture and once had mold inside the dial's glass... eewww

AND you can have whatever size co2 tank outside SWMBO is cool with!
 
cannman said:
AND you can have whatever size co2 tank outside SWMBO is cool with!
Click to expand...


On the flip side, an external CO2 tank looks a little ghetto so if SWMBO is into aesthetics ... And if you've got kiddos an external tank may be subject to sabotage!

I've had mine internal for 2+ years with no mold or torn line problems. But there are times where having room for an extra keg would be nice! It's a trade off like many other design decisions. Luckily you can easily switch to external in the future if you need a bit more space inside.
 
fosaisu said:
On the flip side, an external CO2 tank looks a little ghetto so if SWMBO is into aesthetics ... And if you've got kiddos an external tank may be subject to sabotage!

I've had mine internal for 2+ years with no mold or torn line problems. But there are times where having room for an extra keg would be nice! It's a trade off like many other design decisions. Luckily you can easily switch to external in the future if you need a bit more space inside.
Click to expand...

Hahaha Gheto? I never looked at having a gas welding tank with hoses running out the back with Perlicks sticking out the front of my commercial grade freezers as ghetto :D

+1 on the Kiddos. My stuff is out back in a shed and pad-locked. All the freezers have individual locks too. I never approached op's task as being kept in the house.
 
Another thought:

Not sure how well this would work in your particular fridge, but this vintage kegerator build has a 5lb CO2 tank mounted in the door panel. Depending on how your fridge is laid out this might allow you to hold 5 kegs plus the CO2 inside.
 
Scriv said:
Scored a fridge today, and ordered the shanks, beer line, and ball lock disconnects. 4 Perlick 630SS taps arrived yesterday. It's finally starting to come together!
Click to expand...

So what did you decide on for the regulator?

If you have not ordered gas hose yet take a look at this thread, he is using a thinner easier to deal with gas line. I have the fat red stuff and wish I had something more flexible sometimes.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=449284
 
Last edited:
ba-brewer said:
So what did you decide on for the regulator?

If you have not ordered gas hose yet take a look at this thread, he is using a thinner easier to deal with gas line. I have the fat red stuff and wish I had something more flexible sometimes.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=449284
Click to expand...

I haven't decided on a regulator yet, and I was all set to order the red gas line with flare swivel nuts & clamps but I really like that John Guest setup in that thread. Think I'll go that route instead.
 
The only thing I don't like is he's stepping the tubing down to 1/4 at each connection. Meaning 2 possible leak points per connection instead of 1. I guess I could run 5/16 OD gas line with John Guest fittings.
 
fosaisu said:
On the flip side, an external CO2 tank looks a little ghetto so if SWMBO is into aesthetics ... And if you've got kiddos an external tank may be subject to sabotage!
Click to expand...



Sabotage?...............................A jam nut on the regulator knob, and a mini fence charger with wire draped around it!........:mug:
 

Similar threads

Yesfan
Komos/Kegland Kegerator Tower Question
Replies
1
Views
320
Broken Crow
Broken Crow
Tommydee
Fridgidaire Gallery French Door Refrigerator Kegerator Build - 5 taps, 2.75” spacing
Replies
9
Views
914
Bassman2003
B
Classywolf
Inwall tap system
Replies
2
Views
353
day_trippr
day_trippr
thebeers54
Sold 12 gallon system + kegerator and more - MA
Replies
1
Views
318
thebeers54
thebeers54
spotted_dog
Kegerator, Keezer, or Other?
Replies
31
Views
2K
day_trippr
day_trippr
SSBrew 300

Latest posts

Back
Top