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Td
Td
Brutus 10 BYO Plans Changes?
- Thread starter Aubie Stout
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schristian619
Well-Known Member
so are the ones from topfoodservice low pressure? I didn't see anythign that said high or low on the website.
They don't say high or low pressure. They say Propane or Natural Gas. The Natural Gas ones are low pressure. Natural gas is around 7" of water or about 1/4 PSI.
Haha, evidently not. I told him I ordered the 10 jet before and was able to drill and tap, then he wanted to know the previous order number so he could check. I didn't have it handy, I had drilled the 10 jet and put in a 1/4" nipple and drilled orifices in a cap. Finally I had to say, I will not return them and just send me what I want and I'll pay you. Asian restaurant supply in Manhattan. Not your usual surly customer service, it's more aggressive. OTOH, he really just wanted to make sure what I was ordering would work for me. He even suggested two other clamp on pilots that would work.
So in reality, he love you long time.
As for the earlier high pressure/low pressure business, I don't think it matters. I've found the high pressure ones work at low pressure and vice versa. NG and propane may be a different matter.
As for the earlier high pressure/low pressure business, I don't think it matters. I've found the high pressure ones work at low pressure and vice versa. NG and propane may be a different matter.
Could you elaborate on this? Do I need to worry that my gas pipe is going to explode now?
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Lonnie Mac
Well-Known Member
Could you elaborate on this? Do I need to worry that my gas pipe is going to explode now?
If it is a worry, and to me it is not, then it would be a simple task to drill a bleeder hole here or there. I guess if one were to read the keggle thread one might quit brewing all together. I do not subscribe to it myself... There are just too many frames from many manufactures out there welded this way...
But again, it is a very simple mod to do and I certainly would not try and talk anyone out of it...
Lonnie, forgive my ignorance. Where would the holes need to be drilled? Not in the line itself????
Lonnie Mac
Well-Known Member
Oh no... Sorry... Yes, if one were worried about the upper frame only being heated, then I would drill a small hole in the bottom of each member of the upper frame. The upper frame is the only part that sees heat really...
Ahhh. Yes. I see. Mine might have this past weekend when I test fired my burner. The heat had no where to go with my heat shields all the way up to the kettle so it's back to the shop for some mods!
Update-
Got my frame welded (finally) needs a few more things done to it. Planning to start wiring the control panel today.
Wanted to upload some pics but can't figure out how to...
Got my frame welded (finally) needs a few more things done to it. Planning to start wiring the control panel today.
Wanted to upload some pics but can't figure out how to...
BoxingCatBrewing
New Member
What hardware did they give you? I just ordered from them and had them cut from the plans I got from Lonnie.
Was this directed to me?
I did not get any hardware from anyone. I have a very good friend who owns a dealership for fleet vehicles and they have the tools and expertise to fabricate parts, weld, body work, painting, all sorts of stuff. My friend got a little better price on the square tubular steel than GWM from Lonnie's build, though I did end up getting the plates from them. I ended up modifying the original plans a bit, as I am sure you may as well.
I'd LOVE to post some photos, but I can't figure out how. The photo icon in the message editor asks for a URL. If I can figure it out, I may post them to my gallery.
I just got the stand delivered last night and have started wiring it up! Should be ready to rock and roll in a few more days (provided I can find the time to set it all up!)
TD
OK upgraded my membership to lifetime. This forum is really the best homebrew forum I've found period!
Will post photos in a few minutes.
Will post photos in a few minutes.
BoxingCatBrewing
New Member
Hello, Where did you get the probes you have running out of your HLT / MT
Thank you
Mark
Thank you
Mark
BoxingCatBrewing
New Member
Sorry TD not for you, but do you have any pick of your system though?
ThickHead
Well-Known Member
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Propane here hoss. My house doesn't have NG from the main so I'd have to pay a grip to have it plumbed in and I'm ok without it. If you have NG then I'd consider going that route as you wouldn't have to keep running to the propane shop for refills.
I'm using a 0-30 PSI acetylene regulator direct into my propane tanks and I'm running at about 1 PSI. You can kind of see the end of it in my pic below. I can run all 3 at once but you need to bump it up to about 2.5-3 PSI to do that. Two burners can run fine at 1 PSI with the ASCO valves turning on and off. Don't get the 11WC/0.4 PSI regulator from MoreBeer that Lonnie suggests as 1) it's overpriced from MB and 2) it's cannot do more than 1 burner at a time with the shopperschoice mini burners.
The steal your face sticker is a nice touch! Nice Jack Straw reference also....but mostly, nice rig!
BoxingCatBrewing
New Member
what model ASCO SS Valves do you recommend?
ASCO valve question has a dedicated thread and its not a simple answer depending on your perspective.
I have a question about reversing the head on my march pump, now that they're bolted up, one has outlet pointing to floor and I need to change it . I assume you simply remove the screws, but I don't want to make and error and ruin it.
Gonna search the forum next but if anyone can get me started in the right direction, that would be helpful.
TD
I have a question about reversing the head on my march pump, now that they're bolted up, one has outlet pointing to floor and I need to change it . I assume you simply remove the screws, but I don't want to make and error and ruin it.
Gonna search the forum next but if anyone can get me started in the right direction, that would be helpful.
TD
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
The only modification I would make to the wonderful Brutus 10 design is to use ASCO Valves but to use Honeywell Standing Pilot valves for safety sake. The Honeywell VR8200A has adjustments for both Pilot as well as the Burner. It also includes a sensor which shuts off the gas if the pilot goes out. You will also need a Q314A pilot burner (cheap). These valves are for low pressure propane, so you will need a low pressure propane regulator after the propane tank. Otherwise the Brutus design is damn near perfect but we don't want to give Lonnie a swelled head.
Just take the four screws out and rotate, retighten. The March is well built, you'll see it has brass inserts for the screws so it can be taken apart over and over without fatiguing plastic threads.
Got it thanks.
TD
TD
You talking to me? If so, yes the aluminum frame gets hot, but no not so hot as to being a problem. Any metal will get hot. I've gotten a few small burns from touching it but you learn pretty quick not to touch it when the burners are going. I've brewed probably 50 batches on it so far and have had no issues.
Finally got mine built.
Made 4 batches so far. 1 still untested (Belgian strong golden)
First batch was great
Second batch I ran out of propane and didn't achieve my post boil volume, ended up slightly thin/lower OG FG than intended, but ended up otherwise fine.
Third batch I goofed up. Turned off recirc pump on mash to clear a clog(must've been running too fast flow), but forgot to turn off the burner switch and overshot mash temps cause burner kept on and basically mashed out in the first 15 minutes.... Oops! Well that one mistake I won't make again!
Think I might try to recycle this as mash in water for another batch of brew... Anyone ever try this?
Finally posted a couple of pics in my gallery.
Wanted to say that the folks who claim that the spark modules cause EMI with the temp controllers, well at least for me, it just isn't so. I did take some lead flashing to shield the controllers and the spark modules, all housed in a NEMA 4X enclosure.
One design flaw, was that I should've used a longer arm for mounting the enclosure. It can get pretty darn hot when heating the mash in water. I'm thinking of taking a cheap garbage can lid and shearing it bit to make a heat shield....
I still need to install my manual ingnition setup on the boil kettle burner.
Thanks to all for all the help on this forum!!
TD
Made 4 batches so far. 1 still untested (Belgian strong golden)
First batch was great
Second batch I ran out of propane and didn't achieve my post boil volume, ended up slightly thin/lower OG FG than intended, but ended up otherwise fine.
Third batch I goofed up. Turned off recirc pump on mash to clear a clog(must've been running too fast flow), but forgot to turn off the burner switch and overshot mash temps cause burner kept on and basically mashed out in the first 15 minutes.... Oops! Well that one mistake I won't make again!
Think I might try to recycle this as mash in water for another batch of brew... Anyone ever try this?
Finally posted a couple of pics in my gallery.
Wanted to say that the folks who claim that the spark modules cause EMI with the temp controllers, well at least for me, it just isn't so. I did take some lead flashing to shield the controllers and the spark modules, all housed in a NEMA 4X enclosure.
One design flaw, was that I should've used a longer arm for mounting the enclosure. It can get pretty darn hot when heating the mash in water. I'm thinking of taking a cheap garbage can lid and shearing it bit to make a heat shield....
I still need to install my manual ingnition setup on the boil kettle burner.
Thanks to all for all the help on this forum!!
TD
My PIDs sometimes have weird temp readings flash when the solenoids fire.
On your overheated mash, you can actually just cool the mash back down and continue. Throw a few handfuls of ice and keep recirculating. My MLT solenoid stuck once and that worked fine for me.
I feel your pain when shaking down the new rig. I keep thinking I've made pretty much all the mistakes. However, new ones surprise me, but they are getting fewer and farther between. I've had a few brews that just went smooth as silk. Makes you smile at the end of the day.
Yeah, I tried the cooling the mash down, but I still ended up with crazy FG, that I'm blaming on the mash overheating.
The very first brew was flawless and the brew session without any stress or worries. I guess I was more attentive during the first brew-session with the new rig.
Well I am planning my summer brewing season, and have also recently sold off all the OLD brew gear to make room for a possible chest freezer to use as a fermentation chamber. I figure I can easily fit 3-4 brews in there at once!
TD
The very first brew was flawless and the brew session without any stress or worries. I guess I was more attentive during the first brew-session with the new rig.
Well I am planning my summer brewing season, and have also recently sold off all the OLD brew gear to make room for a possible chest freezer to use as a fermentation chamber. I figure I can easily fit 3-4 brews in there at once!
TD
Need to make some revisions to my rig.
The 10 jet mininburner I am using for all three vessels is the culprit. I've replaced one so far, and they no longer carry it where I purchased. Plus I think it is an inferior product based on multiple leaks that develop over time.
Now the boil kettle cast iron ring seems to be leaking directly, not from a threaded port hole!
I have purchased a banjo style burner and plan to adapt.
I am not surrender what fittings I will need.
My manifold is a 1/2" SS pipe with regulator on one end, with main shut off off ball valve on the low pressure outlet side I believe. Then it feeds in a chain the first honeywell valve and then the second honeywell valve and then an elbow with another ball valve that feeds the boil kettle burner, pipes are 1/2". With flex pipes going to the burners. The burners themselves have a small reducing 90 degree elbow 1/2" to 3/8" for the inlet on the burner rings.
The new banjo burner has a 1/4 MPT inlet with an air mixer plate on the front. So question is, can I use a regular pipe fitting 1/2" to 1/4" reducing elbow to connect the flex pipe to the banjo burner or do I need a different style of fitting?
TD
The 10 jet mininburner I am using for all three vessels is the culprit. I've replaced one so far, and they no longer carry it where I purchased. Plus I think it is an inferior product based on multiple leaks that develop over time.
Now the boil kettle cast iron ring seems to be leaking directly, not from a threaded port hole!
I have purchased a banjo style burner and plan to adapt.
I am not surrender what fittings I will need.
My manifold is a 1/2" SS pipe with regulator on one end, with main shut off off ball valve on the low pressure outlet side I believe. Then it feeds in a chain the first honeywell valve and then the second honeywell valve and then an elbow with another ball valve that feeds the boil kettle burner, pipes are 1/2". With flex pipes going to the burners. The burners themselves have a small reducing 90 degree elbow 1/2" to 3/8" for the inlet on the burner rings.
The new banjo burner has a 1/4 MPT inlet with an air mixer plate on the front. So question is, can I use a regular pipe fitting 1/2" to 1/4" reducing elbow to connect the flex pipe to the banjo burner or do I need a different style of fitting?
TD
You can use a reducing elbow but I would say from my experience to buy a stainless one. I have steel ones now and they rust from washing the frame after dirty brew days. A minor deal but worth dealing with now.
Thanks.
They don't make 1/2 to 1/4 reducing elbows so I am planning on the following:
Galvanized 1/2" to 3/8" reducing elbow
Zinc plated 3/8 to 1/4 bushing
Then I'm getting the brass orifice/valve sold where I bought the burner to connect to the burner inlet.
Question I have is, with all these dissimilar metals and treatments, am I going to have problems?
Planning to seal with blue RTV, though I might use the high temp red RTV since the blue tube is getting difficult to work with as it's starting to get really plugged up from curing over time in an opened tube...
A.so curious about a check valve for propane systems. Is there such a thing?
TD
They don't make 1/2 to 1/4 reducing elbows so I am planning on the following:
Galvanized 1/2" to 3/8" reducing elbow
Zinc plated 3/8 to 1/4 bushing
Then I'm getting the brass orifice/valve sold where I bought the burner to connect to the burner inlet.
Question I have is, with all these dissimilar metals and treatments, am I going to have problems?
Planning to seal with blue RTV, though I might use the high temp red RTV since the blue tube is getting difficult to work with as it's starting to get really plugged up from curing over time in an opened tube...
A.so curious about a check valve for propane systems. Is there such a thing?
TD
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