Brook's CraftBeer Pi Build Thread

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Welcome to DIY. Unfortunately it very often costs you more than the off the shelf solution. But is sooo much more fun!!

Heat transfer is a surface area and contact quality game. Metal on metal would be best but I assume they designed the wire for effective transfer. What if you wrap the wire with heat proof tape like fiberglass (fiber-fix)?
 
You'd get more contact with the pipe if you wrapped the heat tape around one leg of pipe at a time - you'd get almost no dead heat tape. In your diagram (and making some assumptions), I'd guess that about half the heat tape isn't in good contact with the copper pipe.

Getting some pressure onto the heat tape might also help - maybe silicone bands or similar?
 
Thanks for the suggestions. When I get back home, I'll take it apart and get some photos. I'll admit that there's some dead heat tape, but not as much as my diagram shows. The pipes are so close together that I had difficulty fitting the plug in between them to wrap the pipe. Also, since there's about 3' of pipe now, my tape won't wrap all the way around all three pipes.

I could try wrapping along two of the pipes only (input and output lines) and also try wrapping with heat reflective tape
 
BrunDog said:
That fiberglass is part of the wire? That would be an insulator preventing heat from reaching the tube.
Click to expand...

Hmm.. I wonder if I should cannibalize the element. I don't want to spend another $120+ on something that won't do what I want it to...

Maybe if I remove the insulation that's a part of the element, wrap the bare wire against the copper pipe, then get some heat proof tape and wrap that around the wire to secure it; if that will work better.

I just don't know if the wire would end up shorting itself without the insulation. I guess that I could test that theory with a VOM.
 
I hear you. It sounds like that wire is not purpose suited for direct conduction. Certainly not looking to rain on your parade. But that explains the issue to me - the heat is not conducting well off the wire.
 
BrunDog said:
I hear you. It sounds like that wire is not purpose suited for direct conduction. Certainly not looking to rain on your parade. But that explains the issue to me - the heat is not conducting well off the wire.
Click to expand...

Meh. Could be worse. Now, I was talking to my dad and he mentioned teflon sheets like in a heat sealing machine or a silicone pad like in a heat press. I wonder if I could take the wire out of the sheath, wrap the copper with the teflon sheet, then put the wire against the teflon. Then use some of the fiber-fix tape to secure the wire in place and put more ceramic insulation around the element.
 
Search AliExpress or eBay for heat tape, and you should find the silicone kind in several formats and powers.
 
So... After much thought. I've decided to drop the idea of using a RIMS tube. I decided on a 2-Vessel RIMS system with a 5500 watt element in the MLT under the false bottom.

I picked up the 5500 watt element and the Hot Pod enclosure from brewhardware.com

I just placed an order from Amazon for 10/3 SO wire, plugs, shrinkwrap, sheathing and a motor system for stirring the mash with a PWM module. Eventually I'll be automating the mash stirring, but I'll need to modify my controller box for that.
 
As long as you recirc quickly, it shouldn't be a problem. A good FB is key. The hard part with this setup is getting enough liquid to flow past the element surface rather than around it. This is why a RIMS tube is better in this config... because the all the liquid is forced to flow, turbulently, through the element.
 
BrunDog said:
As long as you recirc quickly, it shouldn't be a problem. A good FB is key. The hard part with this setup is getting enough liquid to flow past the element surface rather than around it. This is why a RIMS tube is better in this config... because the all the liquid is forced to flow, turbulently, through the element.
Click to expand...

Makes sense. I tried to make a RIMS tube with indirect heat, but that didn't work. I already have a fold-back element that I could use for a RIMS in the MLT. Hence why I was thinking that route.

I see that brewhardware.com has a RIMS tube with an element pod that should work great as the RIMS system with a 120v element, then I could use the element and POD that I have as a HLT element...

That should get me the RIMS Tube efficiency that you're referring to while putting what I already own to use...
 
Well, it seems that everything I do is two steps forward, one step back. I purchased the RIMS tube from Bobby which is amazingly beautiful :) I would've been able to test and brew this weekend if I hadn't decided to redesign and rewire half the controller...oh well. I'll post pics soon.
 
Out of curiosity, I have seen many people put the junction box on the side of the kettle, as you did in the pictures above. I have seen some elements with threads on the outside of the element as well, that allow a very small cover to thread in place. Would this not be an easier/cleaner route?

5500 Watt Element.JPG


5500.JPG
 
I used the HotPod from BrewHardware on my HLT, and it sticks out quite a bit more than the junction box. If I had the kettles in a dedicated brew area, it wouldn't be that much of an issue, but since I have to have it portable and condensed as much as possible when not brewing, it's not the best solution for me. Also, cable routing when not in use, I prefer to coil the power cord and hang from the handle, but this doesn't allow that.

The junction box is from The Electric Brewery. It makes for a nice, compact, and clean installation. I'll be working on the system this weekend, so I'll be able to take some photos of everything where it's currently at and post them.

As I mentioned earlier, I tore the controller apart and am in the process of re-wiring the whole thing. I even cut the entire front panel off and CNC machined a new front. I'm also working on a new back panel.
 
Of course... I get it all nice, wired up, pretty, tested... and then I decide to change something... So goes my life... LOL!

I decided to purchase a couple float switches for the HLT and the Boil kettle. I'll wire them up to a BUCK module and a 2-Relay board so that they will then allow the contactors for the elements to be powered or not if there's enough water in the vessel. Shouldn't burn out any elements this way :D

I've been wiring this kinda on the fly, and have been asked a few times for some diagrams. When I get a chance, I'll try to draw something out. Hopefully it'll make sense :/
 
So, sadly, some bad news. My grampa passed this afternoon, so I've been delayed in drawing the schematics. I think that once I get this system up and running, I'll brew my first batch of a malt-forward lager and name it "Fiddler" after him. My Grampa was an avid violinist (hence the brew name) and went to many concerts. He was recording and burning CDs until just a couple weeks ago (age 87). The last time my father went to visit him, I sent a few homebrews along. He was able to enjoy them with my dad, and later my sister when she went.

For the past 30+ years, he's been living in Vienna, Austria while we're in the US. Not many opportunities to see him, except for Skype calls and his occasional visit. He'll be missed, but his memory will live on through this post, and through the recipe.

I'm thinking 48.8% Simpsons Munich, 39% Simpsons Vienna, 9.8% Flaked Barley, 2.4% Carafa Special II Dehusked, 22 IBUs Saaz @ 60 minutes, and fermenting around 50* with Wyeast 2206 (Bavarian Lager)

This should get me an OG of about 1.080 and an ABV of 8.1%

I think he'd be pleased with a sweeter, easier drinking beer than what I usually make.

To end this post on a lighter note... The smoke test yesterday went swimmingly! When I powered on the system, I didn't burn down my house or blow up the machine! I love it when that happens :D

I was able to calculate some losses and volume measurements. Everything is in good order for my brew day. I stopped by my LHBS and picked up a 55lb bag of Simpsons Golden Promise so I have that on hand. I'll be brewing soon! I can't wait!
 
It's not perfect, and it's not the prettiest schematic, but it should explain my build a little bit.

I did not include EVERY little thing in here.. How to wire temp probes, hook up SSRs, my fan, LEDs, etc.

Please note, I am not an electrician or electrical engineer. Please do not use this schematic to build your own system. Please have any wiring performed checked by a professional. MAINS voltages CAN and HAVE KILLED people.

You have been warned.

CBPi-Partial-Schematic.jpg
 
BrunDog said:
Sorry to hear about your Grampa.

8.1% ABV is lighter than you usually brew?
Click to expand...

Thank you.

8.1 is on the lighter side.. I usually aim to brew about 8-10%. That being said, I do make beers in the 4-6% range as well, but I find them too easy to drink. I'd rather have 1 or 2 instead of 5+. My coffee stout is about 5.3%, and it goes down too easy :D

The last brew of mine that he had was a 14% blueberry cyser. He loved it!
 
Yesterday I took the system for it's initial brew. I made my dopplebock and a lagered porter. It went very well for a first time. There some small adjustments that I still need to make, then I'll look into setting up the full automation for the system :D

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Dopplebock OG: 1.078
Porter OG: 1.058

Fermented around 54*F for a week, then brought up to 64*F over 4 days and held for 3 more, before I kegged and cold-crashed.

Dopplebock FG: 1.016
Porter FG: 1.014

Now they're in kegs under light pressure to old crash, lager, and carbonate. The gravity samples tasted awesome, maybe I'll be able to enjoy these around XMAS or my Birthday.
 
Wow - looking at your controller box makes me wonder if I built mine OK.

I haven't brewed with mine yet - waiting for a kettle lid and some warmer temps in my garage (it's -10F outside here today). I see you're using CraftbeerPi, as I am, but you have a lot more switches, connectors and wiring in your box than I do.

Maybe this is just due to the fact that I'm doing BIAB and you're not?

I didn't put any hardware controls for the heat element on/off or an emergency stop in mine, assuming that CBPI would control the heating element for me, and if there were problems that I have two circuit breakers next to my kettle that I can hit if there is some catastrophic failure.

Do I need to re-think my controller box?
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Ignore the plastic garbage lid - that doesn't work and I have a real lid coming soon.
 
I am not an Electrician or Electrical Engineer. Please have all of your wiring checked by a professional before you plug anything in.
Click to expand...

I'm super paranoid about stuff and personally I don't trust any software 100%. I like having override switches, but have only used them once because I was too far from the mouse at the time.

My setup also has a lot of indicators.
I have an LED for when CBPi says that an actor should be active and a LAMP that shows when the outlet is energized - for each outlet (3@120v, 2@240v). I also have an indicator for when the Pi is running and when it's safe to unplug.

I also made a 6-way (power strip) that has 4 override switches and can be controlled via CBPi. I also use it to control my pumps when I'm not using CBPi.

I tend to go overkill :D

I'd recommend double checking every connection and each crimp. Also, I'm not sure what hat you're using on the Pi, but the new recommendation is to wire the DS18B20 with 5V instead of the 3.3 as shown on the website.

One thing I would recommend is to see if you can isolate your temp probe wires from the high voltage a little better. You might get some weird readings when your kettle is firing.
 

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Thanks for the reply BGHSmt7.

Your system is much more thorough than mine, and normally I'd go the extra mile and do something like yours. If two aspirin are good, four are better - right? I knew I'd have limited funds for a brew system and that's why I ended up with my more minimalist approach - due to what I could spend. Or, wait a lot longer to complete it. I don't have time for patience.

My testing so far has shown that it's much more common for the Raspberry Pi to reboot and everything shut off instead of stick on. But that may have been due to my weak power supply. I did get a new 5A power supply that I will use in the future - so that frequent reboot problem maybe fixed.

I have just the 2 indicators - one when the heat element is on (the red one) and one for the pump on (the blue indicator).

I'm using a Terragady 4.2 board on the PI. The terragady is using 12v as input, switching the relay and SSR, powering my pump and also converting down to 5V for powering the PI and temp probes.

I didn't even think about temp probes being influenced by any outside interference, but don't have the room in my small 6x6x4 enclosure. It's pretty tight in there already.

Testing has been pretty good with some help from guys on the forum => helping with the heater and kettle logic/settings. I'm just waiting for a lid for the kettle and a jack for the 12v input for the controller box and then I should be ready to brew. There are some additional camlock fittings I need to get for convenience sake, but I think I have just enough to get by and brew.... after one realistic real-world type test to ensure there will not be any major issues on the first brew day.
 
BGHSmt7 said:
Yesterday I took the system for it's initial brew. I made my dopplebock and a lagered porter. It went very well for a first time. There some small adjustments that I still need to make, then I'll look into setting up the full automation for the system :D
Click to expand...
These actually turned out so well that I'm going to try to enter them into the NHC this year :D
 

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