day_trippr
The Central Scruuuutinizer
Barely organized. I know what each pile does though 
Cheers!
Cheers!
I mentioned that in my post #753. The factory tips on the DS18B20 sensors are so short that I find the wago nuts clamping down on the rubber outside sheath instead of the copper wires, I stripped a number of them and resoldered longer ends on, but that is really tricky not to strip the very fine copper wires also.I use Wago connectors to connect wires without soldering or crimping. Pretty handy for work you might need to take apart again.
I use these on my wire ends:The factory tips on the DS18B20 sensors are so short that I find the wago nuts clamping down on the rubber outside sheath instead of the copper wires, I stripped a number of them and resoldered longer ends on, but that is really tricky not to strip the very fine copper wires also
I use these on my wire ends:
View attachment 814698
The temp sensor wires are very fragile, so I fold them over and insert that into the ferrules and crimp that. Very durable.
Linkypoo?
Just curious... What do you use the 8AWG- 16AWG for? Those gauge wires are perfect for WAGO lever nuts
Yep.So does one crimp those terminals on, then plug the crimped terminal end into a WAGO connector - and it actually makes solid reliable contact?![]()
Well, two issues with that.What you young'uns go through to avoid using a soldering iron![]()
Looks like you blew up that picture of the wires with the Hubble Space Telescope. My probes look like @balrog , electron cloud's
These are all great ways to beef up the tiny tips! Thanks! I never deal with such small gauge wire in my business, so this is all nice to know.I prefer to just crimp on an RJ11 or some molex pins and use a molex .100 connector. The molex pins do mean you need a good wire stripper though.
Oh, and the RJ11 means you need some of those and a RJ11 crimper. LOL (they are pretty cheap though) I'm also not afraid to solder them.
I doubt it. It was addressed here a couple of times. Just do a search in this thread, to find out the reasons.Are there any brewpi / kegland rapt pill projects in the works?
Do you cut off the factory (very short) soldered tip, then strip off a longer section of naked wires, and insert the naked wires into the ferrules, or solder the newly skinned wires, and then insert into a ferrule for crimping?Yep.
Well, two issues with that.
- The three hair-thin strands of copper in those leads still are not very large in diameter; the ferrule "bulks" that up a bit making a more reliable connection with the various physical connectors.
- The above-mentioned three strands of copper will break at the solder point. I know this is a religious debate among people but all I know is I have seen it happen to me and I prefer a mechanical connection for these.
Please see this post.Are there any brewpi / kegland rapt pill projects in the works?
I fold over the factory tinned ends and slip the ferule over that and crimp. “So far so good.”Do you cut off the factory (very short) soldered tip, then strip off a longer section of naked wires, and insert the naked wires into the ferrules, or solder the newly skinned wires, and then insert into a ferrule for crimping?
Run the uninstaller , it will give you the option to remove one chamber.How do you delete Chamber(s) "Arduino" UNO Controller, from a Mult-Chamber set up?
I think the only way will be to edit the config.cfg file.Also, I could not find in the Documents, How to rename ("friendly" name), of the Chamber UNO Controller?
Where can I find this folder/file, or line in the script? I have two controllers with the same name, which is not helpful to see if any of them may be bad, causing problems with lost script communication with the Pi.I think the only way will be to edit the config.cfg file.
Ahh, yes. Modern software. Subscriptions as a Service.Craft Beer and Brewing magazine just sent me an email about a new Accubrew Fermentation Monitoring System...
Looks like an expensive Tilt/iSpindle setup... LOL @Thorrak
Does look sweeet though!
Curious how they get the signal from this long Tri Clamp well ?
EDIT - The $295 looks super good/sensor, but what is the expensive long term "Subscription" to monitor the cheep sensors??
"Hey, John, your beer is done!"The only thing that seems missing from Fermentrack/TiltBridge is alerting. I think I know how to fix that…
This DEFINATELY, has resulted in better beer, and lots of medals, for me also!None of this would exist without Elco, and his decision to make BrewPi open source. It’s been a fun project to tinker at the edges of, and has absolutely resulted in better beer (at least for me!)
Hey man - that $35 raspberry pi has been selling for a lot more on eBay as of late! It’s been cheaper to pick up SFF Intel-based PCs, which feels crazy when you think about it!This DEFINATELY, has resulted in better beer, and lots of medals, for me also!
I remember haveing to stick thermometers in the beer, and using an expensive $300 infrared scanner (when they first came out in the 1990's), to try and track (on paper), my fermentation temps...... Stone Ages!
Thanks YOU ALL, so much, for sharing this with us! For me, it was not trying to save $300, it was to try and make the best beer possible. The $35 Raspberry Pi, was a wallet killer ! LMAO !
I just ordered one from Amazon a few days ago for $49.99 !!!Hey man - that $35 raspberry pi has been selling for a lot more on eBay as of late! It’s been cheaper to pick up SFF Intel-based PCs, which feels crazy when you think about it!
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