brewkart + ditches + countertop brutus = this

[gunner65]

What element are you using?

Remember he is starting his boil from mashout temps probably 170+ temps before the boil is started.

 

[gromitdj]

Remember he is starting his boil from mashout temps probably 170+ temps before the boil is started.

That is typically the case. I'm not sure what bearing that has on the brand and size of element he is using in his system, please explain.

I'm not questioning his statements, just curious about equipment choices. I'm considering all my options.

 

[nspaldi0]

Where did you get that cart? Looks like a cafeteria cart. This is a no-sparge system correct? I really like this system! Simple and compact. It would be great in my basement!!!

 

[resslerk]

What element are you using?

I can't remember the brand, but it is just a 120V 2000W element if I remember correct. Nothing special.

 

[resslerk]

Where did you get that cart? Looks like a cafeteria cart. This is a no-sparge system correct? I really like this system! Simple and compact. It would be great in my basement!!!

Northern Tool, they stock them in the stores. I shopped around a lot and this one was the correct dimensions to work with my Polarware kettles. Plus plastic is a heck of a lot easier to cut than stainless!!!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200344167_200344167

And yes, no sparge, just continuous recirculation. Usually I do about 60 minutes at 152-154, then ramp up to 170 over a 15 minute period and transfer to the BK. Seems to be working good for me.

 

[htc]

What kind of efficiencies do you get from your mash? The no lauter bit and the bags point my guess toward the low end, but the recirculating might make up for it. So until I do more reading, I just have to ask.

 

[Sockmonkey]

Wow, very nice setup resslerk! I built a cart-based system heavily inspired by jkarp about a year ago and I love it!

 

[nspaldi0]

I meant to ask in my last post about the size of your kettles. You menioned they were polarware. I have a 20 qt. Stainless pot and a pony keg that I might use for a system like this.

 

[resslerk]

What kind of efficiencies do you get from your mash? The no lauter bit and the bags point my guess toward the low end, but the recirculating might make up for it. So until I do more reading, I just have to ask.

I've never run below mid 70's. My last batch was an 83. However, as I've said before I don't really go for mash efficiency. Grain is so cheap I'd rather go for brewday efficiency.

With that said I'm getting good efficiency. Possibly it is the good temp control, my pH management, my milling, and recirculation combined.

 

[resslerk]

I meant to ask in my last post about the size of your kettles. You menioned they were polarware. I have a 20 qt. Stainless pot and a pony keg that I might use for a system like this.

30qt Polarware Economy kettles.

http://www.polarware.com/home-brewing/brew-kettles.php

 

[RegionalChaos]

I've been thinking a lot about going two vessel for a 10 gallon setup, with basically the same plumbing (I think) that you are using. I have a question about your mash. How much water are you mashing with? When your mash is done, you are moving the wort from the MT to BK, and at that time it is combining with the left over brewing water that was used to apply heat to your herms? I wasn't sure if you were mashing with your full volume, or mashing with a smaller volume then topping off with water. Also, how does the bags affect hop utilization? I like having leaf hops loose in my boil, makes me think the utilization is applied easily etc, and I've heard utilization will go down if you have your hops in a bag (not as much circulation going through the bag)...

Anyway, I like this setup, it's very similar to what I've been kicking around in my head..

 

[resslerk]

Alot of questions in there. I think describing the process a bit might clear things up.

I fill my BK up with about 6 gallons of water and heat it to my strike temp. I then put my grains in my grain bag and put them in the MT. I use a calculator to determine the proper grain/water ratio. I only drain in that amount of water to my MT, and recirc with only that amount of water. The remaining water stays in my BK to keep the HERMS coil submerged. When my mash is done I turn off the element momentarily, drain the remaining BK water into a holding bucket. Flip the valve on my MT so that it changes from recirc to BK fill. When that is done, I just use the hot water in the bucket to get up to my desired BK volume. Any extra hot water gets dumped.

I haven't noticed any ill effects from using the hop bags or the grain bags. I have used pellet and whole hops in my bags. I'd recommend trying them, they sure make cleanup a lot easier!

Ultimately I designed this setup to minimize the parts of my brewday that I disliked so that I can maximize the parts I do. The parts I didn't like were setup and cleaning, so I do things to make those tasks easier. If that means I need to buy an extra 1 lb of grain for $1.00 or adjust my hops a little, I'm fine with that.

 

[RegionalChaos]

So you are just topping off, that makes sense, I've thought about that too. Dumping grains seems easy enough clean up wise, but the BK will have the coil in it, and I don't want to have to chase loose hops around the coil... Maybe I should try a hop sack kinda thing I see people doing with it. Thanks for describing this, it clears up the process a bit. I need to decide if I'm OK with not sparging I guess.. That seems to be the big factor for me.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Alot of questions in there. I think describing the process a bit might clear things up.

I fill my BK up with about 6 gallons of water and heat it to my strike temp. I then put my grains in my grain bag and put them in the MT. I use a calculator to determine the proper grain/water ratio. I only drain in that amount of water to my MT, and recirc with only that amount of water. The remaining water stays in my BK to keep the HERMS coil submerged. When my mash is done I turn off the element momentarily, drain the remaining BK water into a holding bucket. Flip the valve on my MT so that it changes from recirc to BK fill. When that is done, I just use the hot water in the bucket to get up to my desired BK volume. Any extra hot water gets dumped.

I haven't noticed any ill effects from using the hop bags or the grain bags. I have used pellet and whole hops in my bags. I'd recommend trying them, they sure make cleanup a lot easier!

Ultimately I designed this setup to minimize the parts of my brewday that I disliked so that I can maximize the parts I do. The parts I didn't like were setup and cleaning, so I do things to make those tasks easier. If that means I need to buy an extra 1 lb of grain for $1.00 or adjust my hops a little, I'm fine with that.

I'm asking this without having read the entire thread thouroughly, so you may have already answered it.

Instead of adding your "top off" water to the BK, couldn't you add it to the MT and continue to drain from the MT to the BK to get a few extra points?

Ed

 

[RegionalChaos]

Ed, thats where I'm at now I think. Planning to try and get 1 batch sparge out of the final top off water. Loving this concept brewery though. Looking forward to getting mine going

 

[RegionalChaos]

Res, with it hard plumbed, you must be doing CIP? Does that mean your break material and everything is just getting rinsed down and pumped out?

 

[weirdboy]

How long does it take to heat your strike water with a 2000W element?

 

[jkarp]

How long does it take to heat your strike water with a 2000W element?

My system is no-sparge so I'm heating the full water volume of about 5 gallons. From tap temp to the 160s is about 45 minutes.

 

[resslerk]

How long does it take to heat your strike water with a 2000W element?

30-40 minutes.

 

[resslerk]

Res, with it hard plumbed, you must be doing CIP? Does that mean your break material and everything is just getting rinsed down and pumped out?

Yes, I do clean in place. I put all additions in bags, mash grain in a bag, and also have strainers over the kettle drains to help out with large material. I can remove my pump from the system for deep cleaning. In general though I use PBW, boiling water, and sanitizer (at different points of course) to keep it clean. I also have long pipe cleaner type brushes to get into the valves. My dedicated shop vac also helps the CIP.

 

[resslerk]

I'm asking this without having read the entire thread thouroughly, so you may have already answered it.

Instead of adding your "top off" water to the BK, couldn't you add it to the MT and continue to drain from the MT to the BK to get a few extra points?

Ed

I do it the way I currently am so that I more accurately control the volume in my BK but that is a very valid point. I do monitor the progress of the mash via gravity readings, so I know I'm not missing out on too much. Also, lately I've been trying a 2nd runnings and making a second beer... so any remaining sugars are not wasted.

 

[resslerk]

So you are just topping off, that makes sense, I've thought about that too. Dumping grains seems easy enough clean up wise, but the BK will have the coil in it, and I don't want to have to chase loose hops around the coil... Maybe I should try a hop sack kinda thing I see people doing with it. Thanks for describing this, it clears up the process a bit. I need to decide if I'm OK with not sparging I guess.. That seems to be the big factor for me.

Cleanup really isn't difficult, just use a small shop vac. I have one that I only use on my brewery, so i know it is relatively clean.

 

[brboland]

I have been thinking about a similar setup but use my current mlt (cooler conversion) as a sparge tank. I am concerned that the 2000w element will no he enough to boil 6+ gallons to get a full 5 gallon batch though. What is the most you have gotten to boil on this rig?

 

[resslerk]

I have been thinking about a similar setup but use my current mlt (cooler conversion) as a sparge tank. I am concerned that the 2000w element will no he enough to boil 6+ gallons to get a full 5 gallon batch though. What is the most you have gotten to boil on this rig?

I get just over 5 gallons of finished wort. I have no trouble boiling my full kettles, even in the winter. Since I brew outside if I want to speed it up, I loosely wrap a couple towels around the kettles to insulate them. In the spring or summer those aren't needed.

 

[nspaldi0]

Do you have extensive electrical knowledge? I really want to put together a system like this for the winter, but I have zero electrical knowledge.

 

[resslerk]

Do you have extensive electrical knowledge? I really want to put together a system like this for the winter, but I have zero electrical knowledge.

I don't have extensive electrical knowledge, just lurked around the forum for a few months, grabbed some ideas, put them together, and this is what I came up with.

I like how simple it is, yet fully featured all grain.

 

[nspaldi0]

Do you have a wiring diagram? So, I usually do 5.5 gallon batches to result in a full five gallons at end of ferment. Can you get this final volume from the kettle or do you top off?

 

[resslerk]

Do you have a wiring diagram? So, I usually do 5.5 gallon batches to result in a full five gallons at end of ferment. Can you get this final volume from the kettle or do you top off?

I do not have a wiring diagram, but there are plenty on this forum. Just search around until you find what you need.

I do NOT top off, I get full boil volume including what is lost in my kettles.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Is the cart plastic?

 

[_max_POWER]

Northern Tool, they stock them in the stores. I shopped around a lot and this one was the correct dimensions to work with my Polarware kettles. Plus plastic is a heck of a lot easier to cut than stainless!!!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200344167_200344167

And yes, no sparge, just continuous recirculation. Usually I do about 60 minutes at 152-154, then ramp up to 170 over a 15 minute period and transfer to the BK. Seems to be working good for me.

here you go cheezy.

resslerk i absolutely LOVE this system. any way you could take some 360* pics so we can see how you have everything plumbed up? maybe a crude diagram?
thanks for sharing this beauty with us!