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Brewing beer in the tropics

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mduff001

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Jan 19, 2015
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Heredia
Hi

This is my first post to the forum and my second batch of beer. The first one did not turn out very well but I think it was because of lack of sanitation and possibly high fermentation temperatures. So for my second brew I have upped my sanitation and used a swamp cooler to try and maintain the temperature during the primary fermentation.I think it must've worked because the beer I tasted yesterday after the 14 days of fermentation tasted excellent before it went in to bottles.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424740470.688638.jpg

My question is I do not have a way to control the temperature for the bottle conditioning and the room temperature hovers between 73 and 83° throughout the day. Everything I've read has said to keep the bottles at around 70° I do not have a way to control this temperature

do you think this will have any impact on my final product?

Thanks a lot for your help in advance.
 
Your bottle condition temps are ok, you need to get your fermentation temps down for ales, the ambient temps you have may be ok for belgian yeast.
 
Hi,
I've been brewing in the "Tropics" Asia Pacific region for about 18 months, cant afford a spare fridge with a controller so Ive found the best way to control Ferm temperature is to use the Polystyrene cool boxes with bottles of Frozen water mixed with a little dishwashing detergent. You can cut and slash the PS boxes to suit I use one as a base with lid attached then another ontop. I start at with 6 bottles changed every 12-16 hours then reduce this to 4 bottles changed every 24 hours. This gives me active about 16-18 degrees C during Ferment then raising up to about 20-22 while it finishes off. I also line the PS box with a plastic bag and fill about 4 inches of water this helps too.
I bottle condition at room temp like you 70-80 ++ F and have no issues... normally carbs well in two weeks....
 
Welcome to the madness..

Yes you will be ok. I have been storing on average between 100 to 120 one liter bottles (ales, stouts, saison, porter) in that temperature range. Just keep them in the dark or covered in black plastic. I have made 35 batches over the last year without any issue.

The biggest issue is maintaining the primary ferment temperature within the yeast's range. For ales that means 20C and below. Like madscientist said, check into the belgian saisons also. I have been using Mangrove Jack's M27 Belgian Saison Ale Yeast with great success. I have even been able to let the fermenting bucket sit at ambient temperature (between 70F-88F) in the shade of my back porch. I would try to primary for at least 3 weeks to let the yeast eat up their bi-products. It will make a huge difference in the quality of your beer. Also, get a hydrometer to make sure you beer has finished. Otherwise with the warm temperatures you will end up with bottle bombs. Taste one per week to see the transformation and check for carbonation. Chill for at least 24 hours prior to tasting, otherwise it will be a gusher. I do a minimum of 3 weeks primary and 3 weeks bottle conditioning.

I bit the bullet and bought a chest freezer and temperature controller last year when I was still working and now use that for my Ales and Mango Wine.

For your swamp cooler, keep bottled water in your freezer and rotate out the bottles to avoid excessive cost.
 
Another tropical brewer here! I've been brewing in Belize & Guatemala since 2005.

A few thoughts:

Ferm temp control is the most challenging issue. If you can afford it, then refrigeration is the most convenient way. This doesn't have to be expensive...one of my ferm chambers is an old chest freezer I scored when a friend was renovating their resturant...they gave it to me just to get it out of the way. All I did was add an external thermostat.

Some styles are more forgiving. Fuller bodied beers like Stouts and Ports can better accommodate minor off flavors.

Some yeast strains are more temp tolerant. For example, EC-118, though not normally used for beer, is happy at 50F - 80F. Research appropriate strain temp ranges before brewing.

Most off flavors are produced early in the ferm cycle. Cool your wort down to at least a few degrees below the upper end of the temp range for the yeast strain before pitching (let cool overnight if necessary) and do your best to keep wort temp in that temp range during the most active fermentation (fermentation activity will raise the wort temp)...after that its less critical.

Cooling hot wort is a challenge too. If you use a wort chiller then build a pre-chiller for your cooling water (my "cooling" water typically comes out of the tap at 75F or warmer). Letting cool overnight and pitching in the AM is convenient.
 
Cooling hot wort is a challenge too. If you use a wort chiller then build a pre-chiller for your cooling water (my "cooling" water typically comes out of the tap at 75F or warmer). Letting cool overnight and pitching in the AM is convenient.

I have the same problem with tap water temperature (typically 80F+ in the evening). I chill down to 96F+ with my wort chiller and then give my kettle an ice bath in one of my coolers. This helps get my wort into the mid-60s for non-Saison beers in less than 15 minutes. Also stirring during both cooling processes helps.

I don't like to brew during daylight as I hate dealing with flies (attracted to the water and smell of sugar). I like to start my sanitization about an hour before dark and then start bottling right at dusk. I also steep my grains while bottling to save myself a little bit of time.
 
And I thought the tropical life was all coconut bikinis and rhythmic drumming. Just kidding. I'm jealous because the thermometer outside my window says -4 degrees Fahrenheit right now.
 
And I thought the tropical life was all coconut bikinis and rhythmic drumming. Just kidding. I'm jealous because the thermometer outside my window says -4 degrees Fahrenheit right now.


24 here. Ice everywhere. I would kill to have fly problems right now.
 
And I thought the tropical life was all coconut bikinis and rhythmic drumming. Just kidding. I'm jealous because the thermometer outside my window says -4 degrees Fahrenheit right now.

It's 90F right now in the Sun and middle of dry season. The beach life is alright but I prefer living up the hill in the jungle. The highlight of my week is target practice with my airsoft pistol on the local monkey troop that want to raid the trash on trash pickup day. Lots of fun watching them jump as they get double tapped. hehehehe

24 here. Ice everywhere. I would kill to have fly problems right now.

This is why I live here. I grew up in the midwest and haven't lived north of Florida once I moved away from home. Been living here 8 years now and love it. Even during monsoon season (4 weeks of straight rain at times) is better than ice and snow.
 
Hi

...

My question is I do not have a way to control the temperature for the bottle conditioning and the room temperature hovers between 73 and 83° throughout the day. Everything I've read has said to keep the bottles at around 70° I do not have a way to control this temperature

do you think this will have any impact on my final product?

Thanks a lot for your help in advance.

What yeast strain did you use?
 



I assume you meant Safale US-05?

The proper temp range is totally dependent upon the specific yeast. While the 70F you referenced would indeed work for a lot of yeasts, there is nothing magic about 70F.

US-05 for example has a temp range specification of: 12-25°C (53.6-77°F) ideally 15-22°C (59-71.6°F) per spec sheet. You can find spec sheet at:

http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf

Its important to note that the temps given are for the actual temp of the wort, not ambient temp. And, active fermentation can raise the wort temp.

The ambient temps you gave are likely to keep the wort near the upper end of this range + any increase from fermentation activity. End result is that the wort was likely at the upper end of the range or higher.

Bottom line: off flavors from yeast likely.

Temp consistency is important too. Flucuating temps can stress yeast and result in off flavors. Partially immersing your fermentor in water amd drapping it wet towels (evaporative cooling) can help cool it a little and stabalize the temp a lot.

Off flavors are most likely produced during early, very active fermentation. Controlling temps then is most important. Warmer temps may give you a very vigorous ferm start, but thats more likely to produce off flavors. So, cool your wort as fast as possible and to a few degress below target ferm temp...then active ferm temp increases should still stay within target temps.

If refrigerated temp control is not an option, then put you fermentor in a water bath chilled with ice till it reaches a few degrees below ideal temp, then pitch (not just when it is cool enough not to kill the yeast). Keep it in correct temp ranges till peak fermentation finishes (often just a few days for an ale), then you can be less vigilant about temp control...just keep it in the water bath with no ice for example to cool a bit and stabilize temps.

Beer style is relevant too. Minor off flavors will be less obvious in fuller bodied beers. Ive brewed some decent stouts in the tropics with minimal temp control.

Reread your post: All the above applies to primary ferm not bottle conditioning. Temps wandering into the 80s will likely effect your bottle conditioning too, but not as critical as ferm temps.
 
Thanks I have improved my fermenting buy using a cool brew cooler as far as the bottle condition I have not run in to a problem the beers taste good

On a side note I can only get dry yeast here so my options are limited in the yeast categories........[emoji24]
 
Danstar belle saison or Mangrove jacks belgian ale would be the best dry choices for you IMO. They both can be pushed into the 90s without bad fusels
 
Hi, I'm on the point of moving to Belize but am concerned about finding all grain supplies. Would be very grateful for any advice on suppliers and or delivery. Many thanks fellow brewer

Shaun
 
Hi, I'm on the point of moving to Belize but am concerned about finding all grain supplies. Would be very grateful for any advice on suppliers and or delivery. Many thanks fellow brewer

Shaun

I used to live in Belize and homebrew there. Not exactly homebrewer paradise.

Mr. Barry Bowen founded, among other things, Belize Brewing Co and made sure he had a monopoly by agressive competition and legislation. As a result, its illegal to homebrew in Belize. Prior to Mr Bowens demise, it was rare to find another beer on Belize (usually smuggled in) besides Belikin or Guiness (under liscence to Belize Brewing). Things have loosened up a bit since Sir Bowen died and now a number of import beers can be found. I think there may even be a micro brewery now...Papa Bowen would have never allowed that!

There are no ingredients in Belize so everything must be imported. This creates two problems: importing brewing ingredients was (is?) Illegal (Ive had ingredients/equipment confiscated) and customs duties are crazy high in Belize. Quiz: What is the number one source of revenue in Belize? Most reasonably guess tourism, Nope, its Customs Duties!

There are a couple of solutions to this. 1: develop an ally in Customs, who gets a little "tip", and thus dont pay the full rate (a common solution). 2: Smuggle...also a common solution. For this you want to get to be buddies with a charter captain who runs to the Rio Dulce (Guatemala) on a regular basis. Ship ingredients into Guatemala (cheaper and easier) then bring them up by boat. Do not ship anything by Belize postal service, coming or going, except flat stamped mail, they steal stuff...an annoyingly common problem in Belize in general.

One upside. Belikin is packaged in returnable bottles so you have a good source of strong bottles. I used to bottle in them just for spite. :cool:
 
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