Brewing an IIPA on Saturday.

[JoeDaddio]

Here's the grain ingredients:

9lbs Golden Light Dry Extract
1lb Crystal malt - 30L

And the hop schedule:

2oz Columbus @60
1oz Cascade @ 15
1oz Cascade @10
1oz Cascade @5
2oz Cintennial - Dry Hopped for 7 days
2oz Chinook - Dry hopped for 7 days

Using WLP001

I'll have 1oz of Cascade left... any ideas on if/when I ought to throw them in?

According to BeerSmith this recipe will be around 110.5 IBU and 8.2% ABV.

Whaddya all think? This recipe is from my LHBS, but we added the 2oz of Chinook to the recipe after I told the owner that I wanted blow your face off bitterness and aroma.

This will be my third brew and I'm stoked to be doing an IPA. I wanted something that was going to be unbalanced in terms of hoppiness, and this looks like it'll get the job done.

Thanks,


joe

 

[stubbornman]

Double up on the 10 minute addition IMO. Good luck!

 

[terrapinj]

throw them in at flameout or when you start your chiller IMO

 

[bniesen]

30 min gets my vote

 

[skeezerpleezer]

throw them in at flameout or when you start your chiller imo

+1

 

[JoeDaddio]

Went in and adjusted the % in Beersmith (new to the program, didn't know I could do this).

Adjusted to the % on the packages, with my hop schedule it comes in at 108.1 IBU.

After playing around a bit:

5 min: 111.4
10 min: 114.1
15 min: 117
20 min: 119
25 min: 120.6
30 min: 121.9
60min: 126.1

I'll talk it over with my brewing partner, but I'm thinking 30min is what I'll go for.


joe

 

[BryceL]

If your intention of adding the chinook was to get some extra aroma AND bitterness, I would move 1/2 - 1 oz of it to the 60 minute boil and leave the rest with the dry hop. If you just want the aroma from the chinook, then leave it as is. Lookin good though!

 

[boostsr20]

Hop schedule is fine but to end with a good beer your going to need a BIG starter or about 3 vials of 001. If you don't have time to make a starter, I'd pitch 2 packets of Safale S05.

 

[JoeDaddio]

Hop schedule is fine but to end with a good beer your going to need a BIG starter or about 3 vials of 001. If you don't have time to make a starter, I'd pitch 2 packets of Safale S05.

Thanks man. I've got three vials of 001. I'm hoping it turns out well


joe

 

[bmick]

+1 on moving at least one oz of those chinooks into the boil, i'd say 60 and 45 mins, that will bump up your IBUs quite a bit

 

[tegeberg]

At which temperature would you ferment it, and how problematic would you experts say temperature fluctuation would be if I wanted to brew this recipe?

 

[King of Cascade]

Keep a stead fermentation temprature and add the extra hops at flame out. Let all your hops steep for about 45 minutes after flame out and before you start to chill…the hops will shine in this IPA

 

[bmick]

Keep a stead fermentation temprature and add the extra hops at flame out. Let all your hops steep for about 45 minutes after flame out and before you start to chill…the hops will shine in this IPA

With all of the dry hopping you're planning on doing with this recipe I wouldn't worry too much about flameout hops, and also you really want to get your wort from the boil down to pitching temps as fast as possible to avoid chill haze, etc.

As far as ferm. temps go, with WLP001 I'd ferment at 68 for the first 10 days, let it come up to room temp (if holding temps is an issue, which it sounds like it might be) for 2 weeks, then transfer to secondary for dry hopping. You just really want to avoid wild temp swings in that crucial first 1-5 days.

 

[duckmanco]

I'd throw some of that Chinook in at the 60 minute mark or as a flavor addition. Chinook is an awesome bittering hop when you want to taste your bittering hops.

 

[phenry]

Your recipe looks good, the only place I'd throw that extra ounce of Cascade in would be at flame out.

Something to try next time could be to put some of that Centennial and Chinook in the 15-0 min additions, and swap over some of the Cascade to dry hopping to keep the weight amounts the same as your original recipe. Might not affect anything too much, but if it turns out good the first time it might be worth experimenting with later batches.

 

[King of Cascade]

With all of the dry hopping you're planning on doing with this recipe I wouldn't worry too much about flameout hops, and also you really want to get your wort from the boil down to pitching temps as fast as possible to avoid chill haze, etc.

As far as ferm. temps go, with WLP001 I'd ferment at 68 for the first 10 days, let it come up to room temp (if holding temps is an issue, which it sounds like it might be) for 2 weeks, then transfer to secondary for dry hopping. You just really want to avoid wild temp swings in that crucial first 1-5 days.

Not true...You are spreading false information. Letting your hops steep for 30 or 40 minutes is how you get the real hop flavor and not the grassy dry hop flavor associated with dry hopping...also, you dont get that oxidized hop flavor after a few week from dry hopping. I have tried dry hopping a large amount of hops for a few days and on other batches a lesser amount for a few weeks and still get the same grassy hop flavor at first and stale oxidized hops after a few weeks. I know most beginner books tell you to cool your wort ASAP but they assume the brewer is using an ice bath or a slow method of chilling. If you look at commercial brewers and how they handle post flame out wort you could learn something. Most pro brewers whirl pool for 15 - 20 minutes then start chilling. it usually takes another 20 or 30 minutes to chill 15 barrels of beer through a heat exchanger and pump it into a fermenter. If you dont know the facts please dont spread garbage on this site as it will only confuse new brewers and people who want to make better beer.