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Brewer's Edge Mash & Boil

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Without recirculation, the system will heat until the temp at the probe hits the set temp. When it hits the temp, the heater shuts off but there's a lot of excess heat energy already put into the pot and continues to heat the water/wort. This leads to an​ overshoot by 3-5 degrees, until it cools slowly. Then the temp will drop below the set temp before the heater, which turned on when the temp went below the set temp, out out enough her to raise the temp at the probe. And we start the yo-yo effect again. (I've seen this first hand)

It'll do this with just water. Adding a grain bed and then​ that inner barrel are just going to complicate things even worse.

You really need a constant flow over that probe via recirculation, and through the grain bed.
 
I'm seriously looking into this as well. In the fall of last year, I had my sights set on a 240V induction burner setup, but then I had heard of this system and put that all on pause to see what others thought.

I really like the convenience and the fact that I'd save a step on sorting out an automated temperature controller is very appealing.

To those that have used it, what has been your time from mash to boil if you add room temp water? For small batches, I don't see this as an issue, but for full 5 gallon recipes I'd need to add water and having another vessel to heat the water is not the right direction for me in terms of always simplifying.
 
I think it took me about 40 minutes to get from room temp to mash temp. I raised it to 170 during the sparge and took about 20 minutes to get from 170 to boiling.
 
To those that have used it, what has been your time from mash to boil if you add room temp water? For small batches, I don't see this as an issue, but for full 5 gallon recipes I'd need to add water and having another vessel to heat the water is not the right direction for me in terms of always simplifying.

You'd be adding a step, but you could heat some sparge water in the M&B and transfer it to a igloo cooler to hold until it's time to sparge.
 
My first batch with the Mash & Boil, I started by heating 6.75 gallons to 172 degrees, then transferred 3.5 gallons to a cooler to hold for sparge water. It took less than a quart of cold water to get the remaining water down to mash temp. It took an hour and 20 minutes to heat 6.75 gallons from 55 to 172. It sounds like a long time, but you can fill the kettle the night before and set the delay timer, so the water is ready when you're ready to start brewing. Also - if you're thinking about insulating, I use an old extra-large zip-up hoodie sweatshirt. The hood pulls over the lid to minimize heat loss during the mash. The location of the spigot is also good for a few laughs...
 
My first batch with the Mash & Boil, I started by heating 6.75 gallons to 172 degrees, then transferred 3.5 gallons to a cooler to hold for sparge water. It took less than a quart of cold water to get the remaining water down to mash temp. It took an hour and 20 minutes to heat 6.75 gallons from 55 to 172. It sounds like a long time, but you can fill the kettle the night before and set the delay timer, so the water is ready when you're ready to start brewing. Also - if you're thinking about insulating, I use an old extra-large zip-up hoodie sweatshirt. The hood pulls over the lid to minimize heat loss during the mash. The location of the spigot is also good for a few laughs...

Yes, what you said and mhochman are the big duh that I hadn't thought about. The delay timer for heating the water is a key feature for me. I want to be able to roll out of bed, walk to the garage, dump my grain in and go start the coffee maker.
 
And has anybody thought about using a temp controller like a Johnson or Inkbird to circumvent the huge temp swing? Waterproof probe in the middle of the mash, set the M&B to 200°, and let a temp controller with a 1° differential turn the unit on and off as needed. Reflectix insulation koozie could stay on full time since it's electric to maintain temps better as well
 
And has anybody thought about using a temp controller like a Johnson or Inkbird to circumvent the huge temp swing? Waterproof probe in the middle of the mash, set the M&B to 200°, and let a temp controller with a 1° differential turn the unit on and off as needed. Reflectix insulation koozie could stay on full time since it's electric to maintain temps better as well


Inkbird308 is only rated to 1000w from what I remember.
 
Anyone know if the jaded hydra chiller will fit in the boil part? Looks like a half inch or so of clearance may be tight
 
And has anybody thought about using a temp controller like a Johnson or Inkbird to circumvent the huge temp swing? Waterproof probe in the middle of the mash, set the M&B to 200°, and let a temp controller with a 1° differential turn the unit on and off as needed. Reflectix insulation koozie could stay on full time since it's electric to maintain temps better as well

Without circulating the mash, those controllers will have the same issue controlling the temp. And the temp swings may be even greater if the temp probe isn't located properly (close to the heating element).
 
And has anybody thought about using a temp controller like a Johnson or Inkbird to circumvent the huge temp swing? Waterproof probe in the middle of the mash, set the M&B to 200°, and let a temp controller with a 1° differential turn the unit on and off as needed. Reflectix insulation koozie could stay on full time since it's electric to maintain temps better as well

You would have to connect a controller directly to the heating elements as cycling power to the whole unit will reset all settings and the unit will be in standby mode not operational. I brewed yesterday with a constant re-circulation. I will post a video later today with my findings.
 
You would have to connect a controller directly to the heating elements as cycling power to the whole unit will reset all settings and the unit will be in standby mode not operational. I brewed yesterday with a constant re-circulation. I will post a video later today with my findings.

I will be brewing this weekend with a constant mash recirculation also and will report on what happens also!
 
I will be brewing this weekend with a constant mash recirculation also and will report on what happens also!


Looking forward to seeing your results. What kind of ratio are you planning on mashing with?

Mine is due to arrive tomorrow. Probably won't be able to brew until next week. I've got a pump, but will probably brew once without it and see how it goes.
 
I am interested to know if any of you guys use beer smith and what do you have listed as your equipment for the mash and boil.
Just downloaded free trial and would like to get this dialed in before i start using.

thanks.
 
I am interested to know if any of you guys use beer smith and what do you have listed as your equipment for the mash and boil.


Is there a grainfather equipment profile? That would be a good place to start.

I would think a simple dry run would help you set up a pretty accurate equipment profile. Just check your boil off and dead space. I usually brew a 10lb smash pale ale after any equipment changes. I use very little (if any) boil hops, choosing 15 minute whirlpool additions instead.
 
Mine came in yesterday, haven't had a lot of time to start playing with it, but I agree with many of the comments on temperature swings. Any hot or cold liquid will stratify over time, ever jump into a lake on a warm spring day? The top couple of feet are pretty warm, but the lower levels are ice cold. Stir or circulate and that will help balance the temperature and reduce the swing.

I plan a dry run (water only) to set up and test the system, will report back.

I have put the stainless pint glasses to use though :D
 
I am interested to know if any of you guys use beer smith and what do you have listed as your equipment for the mash and boil.
Just downloaded free trial and would like to get this dialed in before i start using.

thanks.

I have brewed twice with this system using BIAB profile full volume mash. I have hit my numbers exactly and the boil off rate has been consistent at 1/2 gallon per hour.
 
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Mash Volume: 8.00 gal
Boil Volume: 6.49 gal
Mash Tun Weight: 17 lbs
Evaporation Rate: 7.7 % Mash Tun Specific Heat: 0.12 cal/g-deg C
Boil Time: 60 Mash Tun Deadspace: 0.00 gal
Top-up for Boiler: 0.00 gal Equip Hop Utilization: 100.00 %
Losses to Trub/Chiller: 0.25 gal Cooling Loss (%): 4.00
Top up water for Fermenter: 0.00 gal
Notes:

heres how i have mine set up on beersmith, would you say this is correct
Also have it single infusion,light body,no mash out

thanks
dean
 
I plan a dry run (water only) to set up and test the system, will report back.

Why? The grain bed will control temp much differently than a water bath. If you recirc, insulate and measure grain bed temps you will be well on your way to your goal of maintaining mash bed temps- just like those of us who did prior in our cooler MLT. Best of luck with the M&B.
 
Got mine in yesterday and brewed the first batch last night. Everything worked fine and as expected for an electric system. I used a biab in the grain bucket- started with 6.5 gallons, and topped up to seven before the boil after pulling the grain. The boil was vigorous, only wish it was a little bigger. 7 gallons boiling brings it pretty close to the top. Dropped my immersion chiller in and transferred straight from kettle to carboy. it's bubbling away this morning.
I think it makes brewing even easier than propane, but as a biab brewer- clearly im not trying to micromanage my brews. It's not for everybody, but man it's great for me.
 

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