Just out of curiosity what’s the logic for splitting the pump output? Just to make sure you don’t dry fire? Do you run pump on full blast with this setup?
So I was thinking of moving temp probe to wort out valve? Would that help? I only have 2 low ports on my kettle. One is for heating element. The other is for the wort out valve.
I think it would be a slight improvement but it's not going to be rock solid.
Regarding the temp probe location discussion from the past page or two... I have the a boilcoil in my kettle, so installing the probe fitting down low would be awfully close to the element no matter where I rotate the location. Would that be a big deal?
Can the 30A, 240 VAC Blichmann BrewCommander be used with a typical Camco 5500 Watt Ultra Low Watt Density heater element, or must it be used exclusively with a Blichmann BoilCoil heater element?
Anybody figured out how to get it to talk to the ssbrewtech ekettle temp probe?
Modified for EU/AU/NZ/UK 240V
The 240V BC works perfectly with international 230-240 supply.
I also rewired the BC. Deleted the 110V input lead and took the pump 240V supply from the existing 240V. Wired a 240V output socket to feed the pump, fed through the old 110V grommet.
Even if your in US you could wire the controller this way and use a 240V pump to get rid of that extra power in cable.
Of course, Stay within the rated 30A, This probably voids your warranty. Only attempt if you know what you are doing. But this is a viable option for people outside of the US.
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