Brew Stand Feedback - Lots of Questions - 3d model

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thehebs

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I am getting into all grain and want to build single tier stand.

I found this thread with a nice diagram of a stand: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=13627.30

BrewStand-FInal-Front.jpg


BrewStand-FInal-BurnerDetail.jpg


I cant seem to get a response from the OP in that thread to get the .skp file (3d model) so I just rebuilt it in sketchup, according to his specs in the above diagram.

I was hoping someone could provide feedback/answers on the stand

I will continue to post questions and evolve the model as I get feedback and answers.

Here are a couple of sketches as it stands currently:

brew%252520stand%2525201.2.jpeg


(with basic keggle dimensions)

brew%252520stand%2525201.1%252520w%252520keggles.png
 
Question 1: Does anyone have any kinda of blueprint or details on dimensions for chugger pump brackets? I am wanting to sketch up the brackets on those bottom beams, like in the OP's model, but I dont have a pump yet to measure. I found this diagram but I am confused at how the hole sizes are different from one orientation to the other.
2fd27161cdbbac03287a9dc6c568ce11.jpg
 
Question 2: I was reading about people putting little standoffs on the top face of the stand, to raise the pot for the burners to be able to breath. Do you guys think the area between my little wind guards/burner mounts is enough, or should I add standoffs? I could also make the mounts/windguards a little narrower to make the gaps between them larger.
 
Question 3: Height - The OP has a good bit of excess leg on the stand. I think I will run my gas piping behind and below that middle beam, but I dont see the need to have 11" of space below the beam. Can you guys think of any need to have that much leg, and have the space under the middle beam? I was just thinking that the lower I can have the top of my keggles, the better (for cleaning, and adding grain, lower height to lift, etc...). I would also save on material cost and weight.
 
Question 1: Does anyone have any kinda of blueprint or details on dimensions for chugger pump brackets? I am wanting to sketch up the brackets on those bottom beams, like in the OP's model, but I dont have a pump yet to measure. I found this diagram but I am confused at how the hole sizes are different from one orientation to the other.
2fd27161cdbbac03287a9dc6c568ce11.jpg

I don't have my Chugger in front of me, but I belive those are slots, or radiused rectangles.
 
Question 2: I was reading about people putting little standoffs on the top face of the stand, to raise the pot for the burners to be able to breath. Do you guys think the area between my little wind guards/burner mounts is enough, or should I add standoffs? I could also make the mounts/windguards a little narrower to make the gaps between them larger.

That's the first thing I noticed with your plan - there's not enough space to let the burners breathe.
I would indeed scheme up a way to elevate the kettles or lower the wind screens...

Cheers!
 
That's the first thing I noticed with your plan - there's not enough space to let the burners breathe.
I would indeed scheme up a way to elevate the kettles or lower the wind screens...

Cheers!

Do you think this will work? I made the burner mounting plates narrower, leaving a larger gap between them. I needed to do this anyways to allow the burner inlet to stick through. Do you think that will be enough airflow? Or does it need to exhaust out of the top?

brew%252520stand%2525201.2.narrower%252520burner%252520brackets.png


This also leads me to question 3: About how big of a gap between my mounting plates do I need to fit the inlet for a bg14 banjo burner? With the current width of the mounting brackets, I have 1.945" between the plates.
 
The exhaust gas flow problem is having your kettles resting on top of the inside frames that hold the wind screens panels.

The bottom of the kettle is going to seal that insert, so while the gaps allow more air in (not necessary as you already have a ton of intake space inside those plates) it's not helping the exhaust side of the equation. You need to effect a gap between the kettle bottoms and the tops of those inserts...

As for the burner intakes, ~ 7" out from the centers the bells are at their narrowest - roughly 1-5/8" diameter. 9-1/2" inches out you hit the max diameter of 3-3/4"...

Cheers!
 
Question 2: I was reading about people putting little standoffs on the top face of the stand, to raise the pot for the burners to be able to breath. Do you guys think the area between my little wind guards/burner mounts is enough, or should I add standoffs? I could also make the mounts/windguards a little narrower to make the gaps between them larger.

I had the same problem with the burners, my pots sealed the inside diamond and it causes a flame problem. There are several u tube videos of this problem. I made grates to set the pots on and it works fine and the pots are stable. Good luck and have fun building
 
Question 2: I was reading about people putting little standoffs on the top face of the stand, to raise the pot for the burners to be able to breath. Do you guys think the area between my little wind guards/burner mounts is enough, or should I add standoffs? I could also make the mounts/windguards a little narrower to make the gaps between them larger.


I had a similar problem with my stand build, I solved the problem by making grates for the pots to sit on. There are several videos on U tube showing the flame problems. The gas tends to collect in the top and spills out around the bottom and the flame is spilling up the side. Have fun with the build
 
I had a similar problem with my stand build, I solved the problem by making grates for the pots to sit on. There are several videos on U tube showing the flame problems. The gas tends to collect in the top and spills out around the bottom and the flame is spilling up the side. Have fun with the build

Do you have pictures of your setup? Does anyone else recommend an easy way of resolving this issue with the stand?

I think I am pretty much finished with the design, other than fixing the flame issue. I will probably have my fabricator start after the holidays.

brew%252520stand%2525201.2.png
 
I will be going with something like this for now:

temp%252520setup%2525201.3.w%252520hose%252520routes%252520and%252520lengths.png


All of my hardware should be here monday or tuesday. I got all the cam locks and hoses, site glasses, thermometers, etc to finish off my 2 keggles. I also ordered a couple of the cheap yosoo pumps to use temporarily until I get the stand built, then Ill add the chuggers and use the yosoo's as ancillary pumps.
 
I took a few pics for you to look at. The 15 and 20 gal pots just seal the middle area up too much. The grate is 5/8 solid bar stainless 304 I think, I put two down feet in the small triangles so it does not move around. It is very stable.

Awesome thanks. That definitely gives me some ideas. You have any pics of your whole rig? Looks good.
 
Here are some more shots I put a tape measure on to give some idea of scale.

Your setup looks pretty sweet. The design looks almost identical to the one I found, just slighly different dimensions. Looks like you use 14"x14" for each section whereas mine is 17". You ever thrown any keggles on yours? I am curious to know if 14" would be enough room.

Also, for your gas manifold, did you just use some little blockoff plates on the ends of the rear beam? What kind of fittings would I need my welder to weld in to use that rear beam as the manifold? I havent even started looking into the gas side of things. I eventually want to go electric but will start with gas for now.
 
Also, any idea (ballpark) of how much you spent on materials for the stand itself?
 
Not sure on total price, but I think just the stainless was around 850 to 900. As for the pots the big Pot is 18 ish wide and it fits fine. Not sure how big kegs are I think it would fit ok. Just draw it out on a big piece of cardboard and set your pots on it. That is my second build and yes I blocked the ends on the gas beam. Didn't on first one and had a few leaks to deal with. If you are doing stainless you will need to find a place to get 1/2 inch T fittings and a straight 1/2 connector. T for each burner and straight for line to tank. Hope this helps
 
That's a very nice brew stand Slackn! Just out of curiosity, the center banjo burner (which I assume is for your Mash Tun) is smaller than the other two banjo burners. Why did you select a smaller diameter burner for the center?
 
That's a very nice brew stand Slackn! Just out of curiosity, the center banjo burner (which I assume is for your Mash Tun) is smaller than the other two banjo burners. Why did you select a smaller diameter burner for the center?

I can probably answer this. By the time you send water from HTL to mash, it only takes a little heat to maintain mash temps. Its not worth hooking up the bigger banjo burner and wasting excess gas for that.
 
Lessens the likelihood of scorching the wort, too. I use the same burner under my MLT as under my other kettles, but I mount it lower than the others for the same reason.
 
You guys are correct, it is difficult to recirculate without a little heat the pump and lines cool the wort off some, depending on the outside temp. I have found adding heat to the system is easier with the lower output, small burner. iF you want to step up the temps you have a couple of choices, adding a herms loop or starting with a thick mash and stepping it up with boiling water. I calculate the temp steps with brewers friend and add water it works great. I have tried using the burner but I only gain a degree about every 2-3 mins, I like brewin but I don't want it to take all day!!
 
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