Brew Bucket by SS Brewing Technologies

[MaxStout]

MaxStout, do you mind double checking my math for me?

I have 5.5G in a 7G fermenter. My fermenting temp is 65F and my temp to crash to is 35F.

Should be about .086 gallons, or about 11 oz.

 

[ba-brewer]

I can crash with my glycol chiller from 65F to 35F in an hour...but I go in 5F increments every 4 hours.

With a 3 pc airlock (using that now) on jar 2, the top hat of the airlock would suck down to seal off the stem if that happens, but jar 2 is half full of CO2 also.

But....I have never seen jar 2 fully emptied of sanitizer even with quart jars. 1/2G jars may be an overkill, but I plan to go that route next brew.

Thanks for clarifying. I had thought jar two was being drained dry.

One last question how long do you stay at 35F and do you see additional movement of starsan once the temperature stabilizes?

I am asking all these question as I have three fermenters and the cost of three harvesters is about the cost of buying a dedicated 5gal CO2 tank and regulator. I read the harvester thread and it seems like reabsorption of CO2 could need more than what can be captured in a 1/2gal jar so for an extended crash you might need to add more co2 somehow.

 

[Morrey]

Should be about .086 gallons, or about 11 oz.

Thanks MaxStout. I'm on the same page now.

Thanks for clarifying. I had thought jar two was being drained dry.

One last question how long do you stay at 35F and do you see additional movement of starsan once the temperature stabilizes?

I am asking all these question as I have three fermenters and the cost of three harvesters is about the cost of buying a dedicated 5gal CO2 tank and regulator. I read the harvester thread and it seems like reabsorption of CO2 could need more than what can be captured in a 1/2gal jar so for an extended crash you might need to add more co2 somehow.

Once I hit equilibrium and the crash temp is stable, I don't see much movement in the jars. My process is to hit crash temps for a day or two, then move to keg with an O2 free pressure transfer. These brew buckets cant take more than 1-2 psi, so this is very delicate.

I guess I'm not giving the beer much time to reabsorb.

 

[ba-brewer]

Are you somehow flushing those jars with co2 before starting fermentation? If not, wouldn't the o2 in the air (in the jars) diffuse with the incoming co2 and still be present when cold crashing?

I believe if you have it connected in the beginning there is enough co2 produced during fermentation to purge any oxygen.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/keg-purging-with-active-fermentation.628658/#post-8004741

 

[ba-brewer]

FWIW, here's the formula for determining suckback:

Suckback volume = Headspace volume*(1-(Mintemp+459.67)/(Maxtemp+459.67))

Temps in Fahrenheit. Volume units don't matter, as long as you use the same.

Thanks for the formula and the other comments.

I think you also need to take into account contraction of the beer itself, which is something like 1 or 2% but still would still be within the reserve of a 1/2gal jar.

When you finally get around to using your setup I would like to hear if your results match the calculated values.
​

Thanks MaxStout. I'm on the same page now.



Once I hit equilibrium and the crash temp is stable, I don't see much movement in the jars. My process is to hit crash temps for a day or two, then move to keg with an O2 free pressure transfer. These brew buckets cant take more than 1-2 psi, so this is very delicate.

I guess I'm not giving the beer much time to reabsorb.

In the harvester thread it seemed people agreed co2 reabsorption is an issue but it was unclear how much time is required. Thanks for sharing your experience which I would guess is pretty typical for a cold crash.

 

[Morrey]

MaxStout, do you mind double checking my math for me?

I have 5.5G in a 7G fermenter. My fermenting temp is 65F and my temp to crash to is 35F.

I am coming up with .08577. Is this basically 1/4 of a gallon or 32 ounces?

Thanks for the formula and the other comments.

I think you also need to take into account contraction of the beer itself, which is something like 1 or 2% but still would still be within the reserve of a 1/2gal jar.

When you finally get around to using your setup I would like to hear if your results match the calculated values.
​

In the harvester thread it seemed people agreed co2 reabsorption is an issue but it was unclear how much time is required. Thanks for sharing your experience which I would guess is pretty typical for a cold crash.

My process for a beer like a Lager is to cold crash in fermenter only a day or two before kegging so I can drop out suspended solids and transfer beer that's as clean as possible. Long term cold storage in keg encourages more solids to drop out of suspension, but the crash in the fermenter is a very quick process and not long term storage...at least for me.

 

[philly224]

Okay so I got the ss brew tech hose barb to connect a blow off tube to. I also want to use it to do pressurized transfers.

Issue is I only have one gas post coming out of my regular and it has a ball lock connection to it. Is there any way I could rig up a gas post that I can connect to the ball lock and then have tubing coming out of that into the blow off barb on the brew bucket?

 

[Bowen1911]

You could drill a hole in the lid for one of these

 

[leesmith]

Okay so I got the ss brew tech hose barb to connect a blow off tube to. I also want to use it to do pressurized transfers.

Issue is I only have one gas post coming out of my regular and it has a ball lock connection to it. Is there any way I could rig up a gas post that I can connect to the ball lock and then have tubing coming out of that into the blow off barb on the brew bucket?

This is the setup I have:
http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/05/blow-off-set-up.html?m=1

Works good.

 

[Morrey]

Okay so I got the ss brew tech hose barb to connect a blow off tube to. I also want to use it to do pressurized transfers.

Issue is I only have one gas post coming out of my regular and it has a ball lock connection to it. Is there any way I could rig up a gas that I can connect to the ball lock and then have tubing coming out of that into the blow off barb on the brew bucket?

You may be able to engineer some sort of gas post, but I bought a wye and two shut off valves so I'd have 2 outlets off my regulator. Outlet one/line one is a gas ball lock QD for keg purges (etc) and the other outlet is a simple gas line with no fittings.

Off the 90 degree barb on the Brew Bucket lid, I have a length of 3/8" silicone tube that goes into my Star San bucket. When ready to pressurize the fermenter, I use a pair of hemostats and clamp off the BO tube close to the jug before pulling it out of Star San. I match up the regulator line and the blow off tube line with a brass straight connector (barb to barb) I got at Home Depot.

I use this auxiliary CO2 tank and regulator all the time, and found it may be worth your trouble to consider the wye off the regulator to keep things easy to manage. Probably more engineering ways than mine to skin the cat, but I have multiple purposes I use mine for.

 

[h22lude]

I can't remember if I posted my set up or not...

I first added another hole to the lid and installed a TC port
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/a-new-accessory-weldless-1-5-tc-fitting

I then plugged the small hole the lid comes with
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/accessories/products/17-mm-chiller-coil-hole-plug

Then for a blow off tube I use
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collecti...-5-tri-clover-to-1-2-hose-barb-with-90-d-bend

Then I switch to this when I do my transfer.
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.c...ressure-Relief-Valve-1.5-Inch-Tri-Clover.html


This set up is good because the ball lock fitting has a built in PRV which I feel is important. It also makes dry hopping or adding fruit easy to do without opening the lid.

 

[steveoatley]

Question - for all yous guys doing O2 Free trasnfers

I assume you are using a Hose from the Conical out
into your Keg ( liquid out )
in order to get Beer from Conical to Keg

Isn't there some O2 in that Hose ?
Or do you fill the hose with Star San ? ( vodka ? )

All the effort to rid O2 from the Cold Side
that last step from Conical to Keg = whats in that hose ?
That Hose will have some "air" in it..... unless its filled with liquid.....?

What am I missing ?

Thanks

S

 

[Morrey]

Question - for all yous guys doing O2 Free trasnfers

I assume you are using a Hose from the Conical out
into your Keg ( liquid out )
in order to get Beer from Conical to Keg

Isn't there some O2 in that Hose ?
Or do you fill the hose with Star San ? ( vodka ? )

All the effort to rid O2 from the Cold Side
that last step from Conical to Keg = whats in that hose ?
That Hose will have some "air" in it..... unless its filled with liquid.....?

What am I missing ?

Thanks

S

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ball_lock_jumperpost.htm

Steve this jumper will hold your liquid QD open while you force some beer out of the racking arm to get the hose purged. Push some beer, discard, take off the jumper and the hose will stay filled.

 

[leesmith]

Question - for all yous guys doing O2 Free trasnfers

I assume you are using a Hose from the Conical out
into your Keg ( liquid out )
in order to get Beer from Conical to Keg

Isn't there some O2 in that Hose ?
Or do you fill the hose with Star San ? ( vodka ? )

All the effort to rid O2 from the Cold Side
that last step from Conical to Keg = whats in that hose ?
That Hose will have some "air" in it..... unless its filled with liquid.....?

What am I missing ?

Thanks

S

Presumably you have your keg purged and pressurized. Leave the end of the jumper hose that goes on the fermentor off. Open the pressure relief valve and put the jumper hose quick disconnect on the keg out post at the same time. This will allow CO2 to flow through the hose and just as the flow of the CO2 seems to stop put the open end of the hose on the hose barb of the fermentor....then transfer under pressure to the keg.

I open the pressure relief valve because I do have Star San in the tubing and don’t want the full pressure (I purge and pressurize at 30psi) of the CO2 spraying the Star San. You could just wait to pull the pressure relief valve on the keg after purging your jumper hose. It needs to be open during transfer.

 

[Murphys_Law]

I'm curious, any of you guys use this in a mini-fridge? I have a Magic Chef 4.4cf (with the freezer) from HD and was wondering if it fits.

 

[steveoatley]

Presumably you have your keg purged and pressurized. Leave the end of the jumper hose that goes on the fermentor off. Open the pressure relief valve and put the jumper hose quick disconnect on the keg out post at the same time. This will allow CO2 to flow through the hose and just as the flow of the CO2 seems to stop put the open end of the hose on the hose barb of the fermentor....then transfer under pressure to the keg.

I open the pressure relief valve because I do have Star San in the tubing and don’t want the full pressure (I purge and pressurize at 30psi) of the CO2 spraying the Star San. You could just wait to pull the pressure relief valve on the keg after purging your jumper hose. It needs to be open during transfer.

AH.... light bulb goes on....... palm hits forehead !

Thanks

S

 

[philly224]

This is the setup I have:
http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/05/blow-off-set-up.html?m=1

Works good.

I think I'll go with this. Thanks!!

 

[Pintabone]

Just curious, has anyone modified their racking valve on the brew bucket by welding / soldering a TC connection?

 

[h22lude]

Just curious, has anyone modified their racking valve on the brew bucket by welding / soldering a TC connection?

I'm curious as well. I think the hard part will be finding a racking cane/valve set up in 1/2" or 3/4" TC.

 

[Pintabone]

What about something like this?

https://www.brewershardware.com/3-4...p-Ball-Valve-Quick-Clean.html?category_id=314

Then would it just be a matter of finding a matching TC ferrule to be welded onto the bucket? This is all new to me, I don't know anything about TC fittings and valves.

Although after looking at all this stuff, I guess the question is asked is it worth spending all the additional money rather than just getting a conical.

 

[philly224]

What about something like this?

https://www.brewershardware.com/3-4...p-Ball-Valve-Quick-Clean.html?category_id=314

Then would it just be a matter of finding a matching TC ferrule to be welded onto the bucket? This is all new to me, I don't know anything about TC fittings and valves.

Although after looking at all this stuff, I guess the question is asked is it worth spending all the additional money rather than just getting a conical.

Yeah the parts are pretty pricey and the conicals are only about 200 bucks more I think...

 

[Morrey]

The steep angle at the bottom of the bucket (the cone) forces the supplied racking valve downward sharply making any work in that area tedious. Add to that the curvature of the cone, so any TC ferrule will again be tedious.

I have two of these, and in my opinion, you'll spend more time, dollars and energy on a project that is quite difficult. Raising the bucket on legs is a possible solution, but again, is this all worth it when a conical is not that much more $$ and designed for what you are looking for.

 

[Pintabone]

The steep angle at the bottom of the bucket (the cone) forces the supplied racking valve downward sharply making any work in that area tedious. Add to that the curvature of the cone, so any TC ferrule will again be tedious.

I have two of these, and in my opinion, you'll spend more time, dollars and energy on a project that is quite difficult. Raising the bucket on legs is a possible solution, but again, is this all worth it when a conical is not that much more $$ and designed for what you are looking for.

Yeah, that's ultimately the conclusion I came to after thinking about it more. I'm debating whether or not to buy some additional accessories (domed lid and TC connections for blow off and CO2 pressure transfers which will run me an additional $100) or spending a bit more and getting a Spike 7 gallon conical. Only issue with the conical is it won't fit in the current fridge i'm using to ferment in. Just gotta make sure the Brew Bucket fits with the domed lid and TC accessories.

Have you noticed any significant issues with the valves and getting the right seal? I got the bucket with the thermowell. I assume it's just a matter of making sure the seal is good before filling it like any other vessel with a valve.

 

[Morrey]

Yeah, that's ultimately the conclusion I came to after thinking about it more. I'm debating whether or not to buy some additional accessories (domed lid and TC connections for blow off and CO2 pressure transfers which will run me an additional $100) or spending a bit more and getting a Spike 7 gallon conical. Only issue with the conical is it won't fit in the current fridge i'm using to ferment in. Just gotta make sure the Brew Bucket fits with the domed lid and TC accessories.

Have you noticed any significant issues with the valves and getting the right seal? I got the bucket with the thermowell. I assume it's just a matter of making sure the seal is good before filling it like any other vessel with a valve.

I always do some water testing and water transferring for leaks and process flow before filling with anything of exceptional value...like BEER, LOL!

The two orings on the BrewBucket's racking arm are hair thin and break darn near every time I use the fermenter. I have a bag of these as spares, plus I learned to put on some keg seal lube and "wiggle" the arm gently as it goes into place.

The ball valve has an outer and an inner oring , and the threaded nut needs to be torqued very loosely by hand. If you get too tight you can see the inner oring being squeezed out of place. Surprisingly, I don't get leaks at all. It needs to be loose enough so when you ferment with the racking arm oriented at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock, you can turn the arm down to 6 o'clock when you are transferring the beer so minimum beer gets left in the cone atop the yeast cake.

I use the FTSs lid with cooling coils that has a thermowell installed from the top, but one of mine had the thermowell on the side which never leaked at all. I ended up plugging that port but it never leaked.

I like Ss stuff a lot. I have two Ss uni tanks and two Ss brew buckets all running glycol for cooling and heat pads for warming. I am 100% happy with my choices. I never used anything from Spike but I hear great things and figure they'd be a sound choice. Ultimately I had to make the decision to go with a chiller option other than sitting the fermenter into a freezer or fridge controlled by an ATC. Once I added a glycol chiller, my entire operation felt easier to manage and my two freezers became much needed lagering chambers for kegs.

This took me several years to build and accomplish buying a piece here and a piece there. I have some bucks tied up in my brewery, but I suppose I'd rather brew than play golf or have a boat.

 

[philly224]

Yeah, that's ultimately the conclusion I came to after thinking about it more. I'm debating whether or not to buy some additional accessories (domed lid and TC connections for blow off and CO2 pressure transfers which will run me an additional $100) or spending a bit more and getting a Spike 7 gallon conical. Only issue with the conical is it won't fit in the current fridge i'm using to ferment in. Just gotta make sure the Brew Bucket fits with the domed lid and TC accessories.

Have you noticed any significant issues with the valves and getting the right seal? I got the bucket with the thermowell. I assume it's just a matter of making sure the seal is good before filling it like any other vessel with a valve.

What's the point of the domed lid?

 

[Pintabone]

My understanding is that the domed lid helps with pressure. Plus the domed lid has a big tri clamp opening for dry hopping. Probably not necessary because all in I’m looking at another $100.

 

[Morrey]

My understanding is that the domed lid helps with pressure. Plus the domed lid has a big tri clamp opening for dry hopping. Probably not necessary because all in I’m looking at another $100.

Agreed. If you go this route buying a domed lid, make sure the height additions fit in your current fermentation chamber.

 

[philly224]

I'm trying to decide if I should get another brew bucket or just save up some extra money and go for a conical. Does anyone have both? Was it worth the extra money for the conical?

 

[Pintabone]

Agreed. If you go this route buying a domed lid, make sure the height additions fit in your current fermentation chamber.

I have about 7" of space above the brewbucket right now. I'll have to figure out if that will work with the domed lid, a 4" to 1.5" TC reducer and then the 1.5" 90 elbow hose barb for a blowoff. Any experience with this set up and how much space is required above the normal bucket lid?

 

[Morrey]

I have about 7" of space above the brewbucket right now. I'll have to figure out if that will work with the domed lid, a 4" to 1.5" TC reducer and then the 1.5" 90 elbow hose barb for a blowoff. Any experience with this set up and how much space is required above the normal bucket lid?

I had shifted over to a glycol chiller once I got to the point you are discussing now. The refrigerator and freezer size and height limitations was one of my biggest reasons for the glycol chiller.

7" of height may sound like a lot of room to spare, but when you start adding the domed lid with accessories as mentioned, 7" will vanish in a hurry.

I am not trying to sound negative or make it look like your plan cant be done since it certainly can. I realized the limitations I was facing lifting and fumbling with heavy fermenters into freezers and refrigerators, plus you can only do limited fermenters at a time. Like my buddy was asking....how can I ferment an ale and a lager at the same time in the same fridge? I am running 4 fermenters at the same time off my chiller, and each fermenter has it's own unique temp setting.

Something to think about for the future....but in the meantime, I think Ss Support may be able to give you a fairly accurate measurement assessment if you email in a support ticket.

 

[Pintabone]

I had shifted over to a glycol chiller once I got to the point you are discussing now. The refrigerator and freezer size and height limitations was one of my biggest reasons for the glycol chiller.

7" of height may sound like a lot of room to spare, but when you start adding the domed lid with accessories as mentioned, 7" will vanish in a hurry.

I am not trying to sound negative or make it look like your plan cant be done since it certainly can. I realized the limitations I was facing lifting and fumbling with heavy fermenters into freezers and refrigerators, plus you can only do limited fermenters at a time. Like my buddy was asking....how can I ferment an ale and a lager at the same time in the same fridge? I am running 4 fermenters at the same time off my chiller, and each fermenter has it's own unique temp setting.

Something to think about for the future....but in the meantime, I think Ss Support may be able to give you a fairly accurate measurement assessment if you email in a support ticket.

Yeah I went that route last night and sent an email to try and get the dimensions. At this point I don’t see the need to ferment multiple batches at a time so I’d like to just stick with my current fermentation chamber. Worst case I’ll just get the domed lid and have a 3” TC modded to include a hose barb for blow off and pressure transfers. Thanks for the responses Morrey!

 

[Dcpcooks]

I'm trying to decide if I should get another brew bucket or just save up some extra money and go for a conical. Does anyone have both? Was it worth the extra money for the conical?

Sold all my buckets after I got my first conical. Used the money to buy a second conical. Ease of use, o2 free cold side transfers and cip are game changers imo

 

[Saboral]

So I started doing pressure transfers out of mine, but I’ve found the seal on the bucket lid or the rigidity of the lid itself will not permit a leak free transfer even at 1psi. I’m getting into stainless fabrication and I’m thinking about building a slip on ring with screw down clamps (think unitank) for the lid. Wish the clamps on the lid that come with it had some adjustment.

 

[Morrey]

So I started doing pressure transfers out of mine, but I’ve found the seal on the bucket lid or the rigidity of the lid itself will not permit a leak free transfer even at 1psi. I’m getting into stainless fabrication and I’m thinking about building a slip on ring with screw down clamps (think unitank) for the lid. Wish the clamps on the lid that come with it had some adjustment.

Like your idea. I still have and use my Brew Buckets every now and again when the Uni is tied up....new (second) Uni is arriving next week. When I apply real low pressure like you mentioned into the brew bucket, I can hear CO2 escaping from the seal around the flat lid. Since this flat lid is ported for the FTSs cooling coils, the design prevents the easy use of a domed lid. I may be able to drill the sides of the fermenter and put the coils coming in from the sides instead of down from the lid, but seems like swimming upstream.

You can try an adjustment to bend down the 4 sealing latches on the lid to apply more pressure and seat the seal a bit tighter. I just did this after watching a video on the Ss website, so I'll be interested to see if I can put 2 psi on the bucket w/o gas escaping.

 

[h22lude]

So I started doing pressure transfers out of mine, but I’ve found the seal on the bucket lid or the rigidity of the lid itself will not permit a leak free transfer even at 1psi. I’m getting into stainless fabrication and I’m thinking about building a slip on ring with screw down clamps (think unitank) for the lid. Wish the clamps on the lid that come with it had some adjustment.

I wonder if you have a bad seal. I have never had any issue with leaking or read anyone that has.

 

[shoengine]

Finished reading the whole thread. Amazing the amount of info on iPhones, err, BrewBuckets!

With that said, I bought an Inkbird back in September and got the guts to cut into my lid, with the following results:









(I'm also working on a fermentation chamber, but I can brew or I can build, not both!)

 

[radwizard]

I got a question for those doing closed transfers with the standard lid. Is your lid air tight during the transfer? I get a bit of co2 leaking there as the standard clamps don't seal perfectly. It has a good seal during fermentation, but I get a co2 exiting there at 2 psi.

Is this normal?

 

[philly224]

I got a question for those doing closed transfers with the standard lid. Is your lid air tight during the transfer? I get a bit of co2 leaking there as the standard clamps don't seal perfectly. It has a good seal during fermentation, but I get a co2 exiting there at 2 psi.

Is this normal?

Mine does the same thing. My first closed transfer didnt go to great unfortunately.

 

[leesmith]

I got a question for those doing closed transfers with the standard lid. Is your lid air tight during the transfer? I get a bit of co2 leaking there as the standard clamps don't seal perfectly. It has a good seal during fermentation, but I get a co2 exiting there at 2 psi.

Is this normal?

Mine leaks a little but I try to keep the pressure low and have never had a problem. A little leakage but I watch it close. I’ve even had the lid swell once or twice.

A friend of mine has two of the brewtech conicals and those lids do the same thing.

I’ve got it down to where the lid just makes a slight noise at enough pressure 1.5/2 psi to transfer.

 

[h22lude]

I got a question for those doing closed transfers with the standard lid. Is your lid air tight during the transfer? I get a bit of co2 leaking there as the standard clamps don't seal perfectly. It has a good seal during fermentation, but I get a co2 exiting there at 2 psi.

Is this normal?

If you lid is swelling or leaking, you are using too much CO2. Turn your gauge down to 0psi and then slowly turn it until beer starts to flow. Should be right at 1psi or even a little under. That is all you need. Let gravity do the transfer. and let the CO2 just fill the bucket as beer comes out.