Brew Boss Systems

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I ordered mine. I'm sick of tipping the kettle every time I brew! I'm not sure I'm sold on the new pump yet. I'm sure it works fine - but it looks like it sticks out a foot from the kettle. That could cause a problem in my somewhat cramped brew house (i.e. basement).
 

I bought this from Utah biodiesel supply. It is 16" tall and 10.5" diameter. It hooks on the lip of the 20 gallon pot and is high enough to clear the heating element and fat enough to get good hop utilization! The mesh is 400 microns.

Do you think the 8" diameter is big enough? I'd like to save the $35 if i can. I mostly use pellet hops. 16" tall is a good height for 20gallon BB kettle?
 

I bought this from Utah biodiesel supply. It is 16" tall and 10.5" diameter. It hooks on the lip of the 20 gallon pot and is high enough to clear the heating element and fat enough to get good hop utilization! The mesh is 400 microns.

With 400 micron mesh are you using whole or pellet hops?
 
"With 400 micron mesh are you using whole or pellet hops?"

I use whole hop. They recommend 300 micro for pellet hop. I have used pellet hops a few times and worked good as well.

"Do you think the 8" diameter is big enough? I'd like to save the $35 if i can. I mostly use pellet hops. 16" tall is a good height for 20gallon BB kettle?"

I like the 10.5"! 8" may work but you will need to stir more often to get full utilization of the hop. The 16" height is perfect for the 20 gallon BB kettle. Any shorter and you brew a smaller batch, say 5 gallons? The hops won't get submerged.
 
I have the either the 6" or 8" one (cant remember right now) and I find it perfect to set it right on the bottom of the kettle (20G). The 10.5" one would interefere with the element if I tried to do that. I like to sit the hop filter directly on the bottom of the kettle as I too brew mostly 5G batches and with the filter hanging from the side of the kettle, not much wort would end up contacting the hops.
 
I hate not having TC. I need to email Darin and see what I can do to upgrade. His original system came with weldless fittings.
 
Dip Tube works great...highly recommend. Makes the swirl boss way more effective. I had the dip tube point the opposite way of the whirlpool to avoid hop debris...no issues with clogging....no tipping got all the wort...also new chiller worked awesome...was nice to be able to drop in santize without worrying about the element
 
Dip Tube works great...highly recommend. Makes the swirl boss way more effective. I had the dip tube point the opposite way of the whirlpool to avoid hop debris...no issues with clogging....no tipping got all the wort...also new chiller worked awesome...was nice to be able to drop in santize without worrying about the element

While I absolutely LOVE my Hydra. The King Cobra is just so much more suitable for batches in the Brew Boss - We have the exact same setup.

I've actually tried it a couple times without the Electric Chair. I was able to get more wort movement happening for an even faster chill.
 
I also just got my Dip Tube. I have been using the sight glass and pump was struggling. When I tested the dip tube, I decided to remove the sight glass. What a difference. Has anyone else had this experience? I am going to look at having another hole added to my kettle.
 
I also just got my Dip Tube. I have been using the sight glass and pump was struggling. When I tested the dip tube, I decided to remove the sight glass. What a difference. Has anyone else had this experience? I am going to look at having another hole added to my kettle.

When I was talking to Darin before purchasing the system; I inquired about the sight glass. He basically said that they were way more hassle than they were worth and strongly advised against it. Sounds like it was a good decision to listen to him. Glad you saw the improvement by removing!
 
I wonder if his comments were in regard to an "in-line" site glass, the one that is between the port and the ball valve. I too have the site glass and appreciate the ability to easily measure my starting water volumes, as in previous set-ups I didn't have one and I always felt I wasn't as accurate. I have found the little hole in the top of the site glass does let some air in and if you open up the valve too much it can cause issues with the pump. If I just don't open the valve up enough to lower the liquid level in the site glass too close to the bottom, maybe 1.5" or so, then it seems to work just fine. So, I guess the only fix for this issue is to mount the site glass on a port separate from the valve-valve-pump port.

I just ordered my dip tube yesterday so am looking forward to that upgrade to the system. I'm planning on testing my previous hop "filtration" system and using a copper scrubby tied over the end of the dip tube to keep hops from being sucked up. This worked fabulously in my previous system, never had a clog or issue with my plate chiller, so am hoping it will work the same with this dip tube. If so, I won't have to spend the money on a SS hop spider and therefore don't have any potential hop utilization issues. We'll see...

:mug:
 
I wonder if his comments were in regard to an "in-line" site glass, the one that is between the port and the ball valve.
:mug:

Yes - they were in regard to that version.

The newer kettles have volume markings etched inside. Makes life MUCH easier!
 
Cut the finger off of a latex glove and stick it over the top of the site glass when using the pump. I think I learned that from someone in this thread. Before using the glove I used to tape off the hole at the top of the sight glass which achieved the same thing. I acid-etched my last kettle with volume markings myself and it turned out fairly good. I was considering doing the same thing with the new kettle but the rubber glove trick works fine. The only catch is you need to remove it when you want to get an accurate reading as it creates a vacuum in the sight glass.
 
Ya, sight glasses inline with a fluid flow just isn't the greatest idea. They are much better stand-alone on the side of the kettle.

I'm reminded of this every other day when I get coffee, and watch the sight glass level drop (way below the liquid level) as I pour from the valve.
 
Anybody have some good tips to keep the element looking new. I've only brewed on my Brew-Boss 3 times and it's been difficult for me to get as clean as I would like.
 
Anybody have some good tips to keep the element looking new. I've only brewed on my Brew-Boss 3 times and it's been difficult for me to get as clean as I would like.

Get a green scrub pad ...and scrub..Darin in his video has some sort of wipes he uses
 
Anybody have some good tips to keep the element looking new. I've only brewed on my Brew-Boss 3 times and it's been difficult for me to get as clean as I would like.

Recirculate PBW with the heater set to 180F. Gets mine fairly good.
If that doesn't work out well enough, accept that it doesn't matter from a functional perspective
 
Anybody have some good tips to keep the element looking new. I've only brewed on my Brew-Boss 3 times and it's been difficult for me to get as clean as I would like.


Straight StarSan and a brush. Then rinse. Spotless.

This was directly from Darin when I asked him about his cleaner. Mine is spotless after 9 batches. ;-)
 
Anybody have some good tips to keep the element looking new. I've only brewed on my Brew-Boss 3 times and it's been difficult for me to get as clean as I would like.

I had some white spots on my element after recirculating with PBW and ended up using Bar Keepers Friend to get it looking like new again. Now I use it after every other batch. Easy and only takes a couple minutes. Works wonders on the kettle and other stuff too.
 
No acid in starsan! It is safe to drink. There for should safe to handle. PBW is a different story.

Per Five Star Chemicals' tech sheet on Star San.

"STAR SAN HB is a blend of phosphoric acid and dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid."

And....

"DANGER: Corrosive to skin and eye, contains Phosphoric Acid. Harmful if swallowed. Do not get in eyes, on skin or on clothing. Wear protective goggles and clothing when using. Avoid contamination of food."

It is an acid sanitizer. It is not safe to drink in its undiluted form. Earlier when someone said "straight Star San", the implication was undiluted Star San. I'm pretty sure that's where the confusion ensued.
 
No acid in starsan! It is safe to drink. There for should safe to handle. PBW is a different story.

Not quite, it is by definition a sulphonic acid and phosphoric acid mix. It may be buffered so it is safer but it's still a very strong acid.
 
Any spoilers for the analog input that the Brew-Boss controller manual says to turn off and is something for the future?

Feature wishlist:
Dual pump control?
True beer xml import? Is the xml to brewstep conversion accurate enough to not require a test run each time you change the profile?

These are the only things holding me back from buying the controller at this point.
 
Update on dip tube usage...ive been on a mad tear filling up fermenters , 9 batches since wednesday...brew boss works so much better with it....you do need to remove it after each brew ...hops get stuck in it
 
Per Five Star Chemicals' tech sheet on Star San.

"STAR SAN HB is a blend of phosphoric acid and dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid."

And....

"DANGER: Corrosive to skin and eye, contains Phosphoric Acid. Harmful if swallowed. Do not get in eyes, on skin or on clothing. Wear protective goggles and clothing when using. Avoid contamination of food."

It is an acid sanitizer. It is not safe to drink in its undiluted form. Earlier when someone said "straight Star San", the implication was undiluted Star San. I'm pretty sure that's where the confusion ensued.


Correct! I didn't say touch it! LOL (I use gloves)

But - to the original question of how to keep the stainless element spotless: This is how I do it.

Upon speaking with Darin - I asked him about his cleaner and how I could buy it. He said that although it's about as safe as can be - he's waiting for
different FDA approvals, etc before he can sell it. In the meantime - he told that straight Starsan with a brush or paper towel works excellent.

He is correct!

But yeah - don't touch the stuff if you can help it. I certainly have - but I wear those green/blue Blichmann brewing gloves.
 
I brewed a clone batch of Dales Pales Ale I found here and everything went well as usual. However, I brew inside in a shop area and I'd like to know how everyone keeps water from going everywhere. Mostly when pulling the hops bag out it seems to always have water flowing down the outside of the pot then also when sparging the additional water over the grains.
I have the dip tube on order and it should be here today so I'm looking forward to that.
On another note just got an AC unit installed in the shop so that I will not have to use the fridge for secondary fermentation which will allow more batches of beer in the future!
 
I brewed a clone batch of Dales Pales Ale I found here and everything went well as usual. However, I brew inside in a shop area and I'd like to know how everyone keeps water from going everywhere. Mostly when pulling the hops bag out it seems to always have water flowing down the outside of the pot then also when sparging the additional water over the grains.
I have the dip tube on order and it should be here today so I'm looking forward to that.
On another note just got an AC unit installed in the shop so that I will not have to use the fridge for secondary fermentation which will allow more batches of beer in the future!

I always have my mop and towels around to wipe anything up. I brew in an unfinished baesment with a drain near where I brew so its not big deal if I spill things...after lots of practice...i'm pretty good about not spilling things...I have a tub I set the cofi filter into when I pull it out...another bucket I set my chiller in when I pull out...helps to keep things from getting messy...my first batch was a complete mess
 
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