Bray's One Month Mead

[Eric_Mia]

Any websites I should be looking into for yeast, nutrients etc? Found a bunch of stuff on amazon but it seems to be a few dollars more expensive, but prime will get it to my door Saturday morning.

 

[loveofrose]

I made a starter for my latest 5 gallon BOMM (1388) and on day 3 had an accident requiring me getting some stitches. So I pitched a day late. I also threw in a handful of raisins for additional nutrients (on top of the normal add ins).

The yeast blew through 40 points in the first 24 hours! (SG 1.110, @ 24 hours 1.070) So I did the normal nutrient addition.

Day 2 @ 1.040 2nd nutrient addition
Day 3 @ 1.010
Day 4 @ 0.950 (I then added enough honey to bring it up to 1.005)

I taste tested it at Day 4 with no noticeable off flavors. Have you experienced anything similar to this?

Yes, I've seen ferments finish in three days before. It just means your conditions were perfect and the yeast were happy! The only foreseeable problem is that the temperature can spike too high when this happens. Since you have no fusels, then the temperature was fine. Congrats.

 

[loveofrose]

Any websites I should be looking into for yeast, nutrients etc? Found a bunch of stuff on amazon but it seems to be a few dollars more expensive, but prime will get it to my door Saturday morning.

Best I've found for nutrients is here:
www.morewinemaking.com

 

[FlashRedGLS18T]

I made a starter for my latest 5 gallon BOMM (1388) and on day 3 had an accident requiring me getting some stitches. So I pitched a day late. I also threw in a handful of raisins for additional nutrients (on top of the normal add ins).

The yeast blew through 40 points in the first 24 hours! (SG 1.110, @ 24 hours 1.070) So I did the normal nutrient addition.

Day 2 @ 1.040 2nd nutrient addition
Day 3 @ 1.010
Day 4 @ 0.950 (I then added enough honey to bring it up to 1.005)

I taste tested it at Day 4 with no noticeable off flavors. Have you experienced anything similar to this?

Holy cow. When you say day, you mean day? So this all in less than a week?

 

[Eric_Mia]

So I hit up some of the home-brew stores in my area and picked their brains about making this mead, they also helped me purchase supplies and nutrients. So I bought 2-2.5 gallon plastic fermenters, 2-1 gallon glass carboy's with the air pressure locks. hydrometer with beaker (i think thats what it's called) for $30, only thing I need is a syphon but I'll get that later.


I purchased all the nutrients except for Potassium Carbonate. Is this going to make or break my batch? I spoke to one of the winemakers at the shop and he said he's never used it, but based on the recipe I don't know how much this will affect the outcome.

I also purchased 2 different yeast strains.

Lalvin d47 wine yeast and White Labs WLP545 Belgian Strong Ale Yeast. Again, this is what was available.

The wine maker let me try some of his mead that was just honey and cherries, just a basic yeast nutrient added (no fermaid K or dap) and a wine yeast and it tasted fine, except for the slight effervescence and a little phenolic, which could've been from the cherries reminding me of medicine and the bubbles obviously b/c it hadn't fully fermented. This was his 5th week and he said it needed another month.

Now, with these yeasts, should I add more nutrient? or keep it the same?

 

[Eric_Mia]

To better help me understand the fermentation process, what determines the amount of nutrient, time of feeding the nutrient, and how often?

Also, how much yeast do I put, I was told by the wine maker 1 gram per gallon but then the brewer at another home brew store told me I can throw in the whole packet of the ale yeast?

 

[andrewmaixner]

Eric_Mia, Bray's recipe is customized for a fast turnaround with very specific ingredients and process. Using other stuff will likely not get you the same result.

If you are not using the exact same yeast and nutrient process outlined in the post, you really should read a introduction to regular mead making.

Here are some links:
Basic:
http://honey.ucdavis.edu/events/introduction-to-mead-making
https://www.homebrewsupply.com/learn/introduction-to-mead-how-to-make-mead.html
http://www.stormthecastle.com/mead/
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/4795/Mead_Maker_of_the_Year_Panel.pdf


Advanced:
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/improve-mead-staggered-nutrient-additions/
http://beerandwinejournal.com/staggered-nutrient-additions/

Hopefully you can read through that all in an hour or two, and you can also hit up gotmead.com for more/advanced info if you don't find the right answers here in in the links / google searches.

 

[HB_in_Subic]

Holy cow. When you say day, you mean day? So this all in less than a week?

Yes in 4 days, first time for that to happen to me. Usually am at 1.010 around day 5 or 6..

Like I said, the only thing that I did different was pitch the starter at day 4 vs 3 and I stirred/degassed twice a day.

 

[HB_in_Subic]

So I hit up some of the home-brew stores in my area and picked their brains about making this mead, they also helped me purchase supplies and nutrients. So I bought 2-2.5 gallon plastic fermenters, 2-1 gallon glass carboy's with the air pressure locks. hydrometer with beaker (i think thats what it's called) for $30, only thing I need is a syphon but I'll get that later.


I purchased all the nutrients except for Potassium Carbonate. Is this going to make or break my batch? I spoke to one of the winemakers at the shop and he said he's never used it, but based on the recipe I don't know how much this will affect the outcome.

I also purchased 2 different yeast strains.

Lalvin d47 wine yeast and White Labs WLP545 Belgian Strong Ale Yeast. Again, this is what was available.

The wine maker let me try some of his mead that was just honey and cherries, just a basic yeast nutrient added (no fermaid K or dap) and a wine yeast and it tasted fine, except for the slight effervescence and a little phenolic, which could've been from the cherries reminding me of medicine and the bubbles obviously b/c it hadn't fully fermented. This was his 5th week and he said it needed another month.

Now, with these yeasts, should I add more nutrient? or keep it the same?

The wine yeasts have been cultivated for long term fermentation (6+ months) whereas the ale yeast are quick fermenters. Even with optimal conditions (nutrients, temperature and PH) wine yeasts take longer.

If you want a quick mead (less than 2 months), then ale yeast is the way to go.

The potassium carbonate helps keep the PH where it should be = less stressed yeast = less fusels or off flavors.

 

[Eric_Mia]

The wine yeasts have been cultivated for long term fermentation (6+ months) whereas the ale yeast are quick fermenters. Even with optimal conditions (nutrients, temperature and PH) wine yeasts take longer.

If you want a quick mead (less than 2 months), then ale yeast is the way to go.

The potassium carbonate helps keep the PH where it should be = less stressed yeast = less fusels or off flavors.

Thanks, so is that specific 1388 yeast the quickest or are others as quick?

 

[andrewmaixner]

Thanks, so is that specific 1388 yeast the quickest or are others as quick?

Bray has tested many different yeasts, and repeatedly confirmed that WY1388 works with the least off-flavors in this quick recipe. (All of them will continue to get better for a year+ in the bottle, but 1388 was good the most quickly.)

https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/ale-yeast-experiment-belgian-bomm-one-month-mead/

https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/DryBOMMAromatic/

 

[loveofrose]

Thanks, so is that specific 1388 yeast the quickest or are others as quick?

It is the cleanest, most true to mead strain of ale yeast I've found. See here for a full explanation:
https://www.denardbrewing.com/blog/post/ale-yeast-experiment-belgian-bomm-one-month-mead/

 

[Eric_Mia]

It is the cleanest, most true to mead strain of ale yeast I've found. See here for a full explanation:
https://www.denardbrewing.com/blog/post/ale-yeast-experiment-belgian-bomm-one-month-mead/

Thank you!

 

[Eric_Mia]

has anyone tried using an aerator or a stir plate during primary to help the yeast ferment healthier?

 

[loveofrose]

One person tried it that I know of. He reported that constant stirring made the mead worse - possibly too much oxidation or too much oxygen promoted spoilage organisms.

 

[Eric_Mia]

So I made 2 batches and followed A LITTLE bit of the BOMM method b/c I didn't have the right ingredients (I ordered them and they will be here Wednesday and I'll attempt a successful BOMM)


Here are the batches as follows, I need some help b/c I'm not sure what to do next in this scenario.


Batch 1 =1 gallon: 24 oz of honey to exactly 1 gallon of water (I screwed up I know)

OG was at 1.06
I pitched the Ale yeast and added all nutrients except go ferm and potassium.

Every day since Saturday I would aerate with a whisk and add nutrients. ( I didn't measure)

Today is now Monday and the SG is 1.010, mead has smells fusel and bready with slight hints of banana which would be an off flavor due to stressed out yeast?

suggestions on what to do next?


Batch 2 = 1 gallon:
40 oz of honey and I measured the water correctly to take out the difference of honey I would be adding.

OG 1.111

made a starter in the honey jar with 1, 5gram packet of Lalvin 71b-1122 wine yeast.

From Sunday - Today I didn't measure but I aerated and added same nutrients as above.

SG now is 1.060

what to do next?

Sorry if this is long, I kinda winged my first two batches. I ordered the right nutrients, yeast and so forth to hopefully be successful with my 3rd batch.

I also wanted to get the hang of setting up and fermenting and feel comfortable..

 

[harlond]

I'm trying the BOMM method but experiencing some problems. I made a three-gallon batch with OB honey in mid-January. I made a 500ml starter with the same water I used in the must, some GoFerm, and Wyeast 1388. The starter appeared to take off, so I pitched it. I had an OG of 1.105, but one week later it was unchanged. I made another starter, also with Wyeast 1388 and GoFerm, and it started up vigorously. One week later, about the end of January, the SG had dropped to about 1.090. Not very fast fermentation, but at least it was going. On March 4, the SG was 1.052 or so, and I added about 2 tsps of Fermaid O. On March 11, however, the SG was unchanged. Checked the pH yesterday and it was 4.0. Seems to have stalled. I've got some D47 yeast. Should I pitch that, or is there something else I should do to get this restarted? Thanks for any advice.

 

[loveofrose]

I'm trying the BOMM method but experiencing some problems. I made a three-gallon batch with OB honey in mid-January. I made a 500ml starter with the same water I used in the must, some GoFerm, and Wyeast 1388. The starter appeared to take off, so I pitched it. I had an OG of 1.105, but one week later it was unchanged. I made another starter, also with Wyeast 1388 and GoFerm, and it started up vigorously. One week later, about the end of January, the SG had dropped to about 1.090. Not very fast fermentation, but at least it was going. On March 4, the SG was 1.052 or so, and I added about 2 tsps of Fermaid O. On March 11, however, the SG was unchanged. Checked the pH yesterday and it was 4.0. Seems to have stalled. I've got some D47 yeast. Should I pitch that, or is there something else I should do to get this restarted? Thanks for any advice.

Did you add nutrients? How much honey did you use?

 

[loveofrose]

Also, what type of water?

 

[harlond]

Also, what type of water?

I used Walgreen store brand spring water. Also put in 1 tsp KHCo3 and to date about 3 tsp Fermaid O. Started 1/22, repitched 1/29. 9 lbs OB honey I got from Northern Brewer.

 

[loveofrose]

If you don't follow the recipe, you void the warranty!

Is that 9 lbs in a gallon or 2 gallons?

 

[harlond]

If you don't follow the recipe, you void the warranty!

Is that 9 lbs in a gallon or 2 gallons?

3 gallons. Where did I deviate?

 

[loveofrose]

3 gallons. Where did I deviate?

1. You used 3 lbs per gallon instead of 2.4 lbs. This would have been fine if...
2. You used Fermaid K + DAP instead of O.
3. Wrong amounts of KHCO3 (3/4 tsp for 3 gallons). This small difference is not likely to impact much though.

While I'm moving to Fermaid O, the protocol is not fully tested. You can read here to see the current status on this: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

3 lbs per gallon is an SG of 1.120. Your reading is erroneously low because not all the honey was dissolved. This indicates the culture is alive since you got to 1.090, but struggling. I suspect your yeast has less than favorable conditions due to pure Fermaid O use. At the very least, get some Fermaid K for trace nutrients and stir everyday. It may be a bit fuselly at first but should age out.

Every part of the protocol is there for a reason. Deviate at your own risk!

 

[HB_in_Subic]

Thanks, so is that specific 1388 yeast the quickest or are others as quick?

So far, Wyeast 1388 has been the quickest but quickest is not necessarily the only criteria for a good yeast. Most importantly, it has been the cleanest without off flavors. I am basing this on my experiences plus Bray's experiments.

 

[Eric_Mia]

So I made 2 batches and followed A LITTLE bit of the BOMM method b/c I didn't have the right ingredients (I ordered them and they will be here Wednesday and I'll attempt a successful BOMM)


Here are the batches as follows, I need some help b/c I'm not sure what to do next in this scenario.


Batch 1 =1 gallon: 24 oz of honey to exactly 1 gallon of water (I screwed up I know)

OG was at 1.06
I pitched the Ale yeast and added all nutrients except go ferm and potassium.

Every day since Saturday I would aerate with a whisk and add nutrients. ( I didn't measure)

Today is now Monday and the SG is 1.010, mead has smells fusel and bready with slight hints of banana which would be an off flavor due to stressed out yeast?

suggestions on what to do next?


Batch 2 = 1 gallon:
40 oz of honey and I measured the water correctly to take out the difference of honey I would be adding.

OG 1.111

made a starter in the honey jar with 1, 5gram packet of Lalvin 71b-1122 wine yeast.

From Sunday - Today I didn't measure but I aerated and added same nutrients as above.

SG now is 1.060

what to do next?

Sorry if this is long, I kinda winged my first two batches. I ordered the right nutrients, yeast and so forth to hopefully be successful with my 3rd batch.

I also wanted to get the hang of setting up and fermenting and feel comfortable..

Can someone advise? Thanks!

 

[andrewmaixner]

Can someone advise? Thanks!

You've made "regular" mead. Rack it to a secondary when gravity stops dropping, bottle it when it clears, and taste it again in 6 months to a year.

Follow the instructions exactly for BOMM, and you will be drinking your next batch in a month.

 

[Eric_Mia]

You've made "regular" mead. Rack it to a secondary when gravity stops dropping, bottle it when it clears, and taste it again in 6 months to a year.

Follow the instructions exactly for BOMM, and you will be drinking your next batch in a month.

Thanks, I should be making my BOMM this weekend.

 

[loveofrose]

IMPORTANT UPDATE TO BOMM NUTRIENT SCHEDULE:
As always, I strive to make better mead. When the BOMM recipe was generated many years ago, Fermaid O, TOSNA, and much of the knowledge we have now did not exist. Fermaid O with TOSNA has given us a way to make better mead with dry yeast; however, my results with TOSNA have been too variable for liquid yeast such as Wyeast 1388 - Especially at high gravities. As a result, I've been working on a new nutrient schedule for BOMMs (and potentially all liquid yeast) that include usage of Fermaid O and the current knowledge we now have.

After multiple tests and replications, I'm happy to report a working nutrient schedule for liquid yeast that will improve the flavor and body of your BOMM over the old protocol. You can see the full details here:
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

It's a bit complicated, but I've included a chart (read cheat sheet) to make this protocol easy for anyone to use. Enjoy!

As always, the most up to date recipes and information is on my site at www.denardbrewing.com. It may take a while to convert all the recipes to reflect the new schedule though.

 

[rega]

IMPORTANT UPDATE TO BOMM NUTRIENT SCHEDULE:

After multiple tests and replications, I'm happy to report a working nutrient schedule for liquid yeast that will improve the flavor and body of your BOMM over the old protocol. You can see the full details here:
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Liquid-yeast-SNA/

Hi Bray,

This new protocol looks quite interesting. I've already been switching to Fermaid O for my later additions, based upon dicussions earlier in this thread, so this kinda looks familiar.

I wanted to restate to be sure I understand this correctly, and also ask for a clarification.


1) For any gravity, add initial dose of 1.89g Fermaid K per gallon (for trace minerals, lipids, etc).
2) For any gravity, add initial dose of 2.075g potassium carbonate per gallon (for pH buffering).
3) For original gravity (OG) near or above 1.120, add 1/3 of the table-specified dose of Fermaid O, at each of

• OG (i.e. upfront),
• OG -30 points, and
• OG -70 points

Assuming I've got that basically right, moving on to my question.

For gravity 1.101, I see that you split at the 1/3 and 2/3 sugar breaks as before, and for OG=1.111 you basically "rounded up" to use the -30, -70 steps for higher gravities. That leaves me wondering about your entry for OG=1.091. Your Additions column reads "All upfront, tested." I take that to mean that you have tested this with the entire Fermaid O addition upfront. Since most of my meads are down in this range or lower (even down to hydromel range), I'm quite curious as to your reasoning there. Is it simply that it all goes so fast it doesn't matter, or something more subtle?

I appreciate your thoughts, and everything else you have contributed to this community.

Cheers!
--Roger

 

[loveofrose]

Sounds like you got the protocol. I think I will clarify it as you stated it in the cheat sheet portion. Thanks!

You are correct that low gravity goes so fast that adding upfront just makes sense. Also, I've done step and upfront with this gravity (and lower) and no difference is detectable. At gravities of 1.091 and lower, the Wyeast 1388 just isn't as stressed as above. (This may not apply to all liquid yeast.) I find the 1.100 gravity is the switchpoint that 1388 needs the staggered addition to prevent fusels.