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resif

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Reading @Seamonkey84 talking about degassing makes me think about it.
I've read that CO2 contributes to lower the PH and it doesn't help the aging speed and maturation so should I degas every time I can do it since the yeast starts working to the end of the first primary fermentation?
 

Seamonkey84

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If your in a sealed carboy, go ahead, just not necessary based on the protocol. After you rack it off the lees (after it’s done and clears on its own), degassing it will help it clear further before bottling. Many people let stuff bulk age under airlock for a while, and that usually degases it naturally. Aging isn’t all about getting the gases out, but the volition compounds that gas out are a big part of the issues of tasting “young”.
 

resif

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Has anyone tried SpringFerm BR-2 nutrients instead of Fermaid K for the BOMM?
I can't buy Fermaid-K or Fermaid-O here in Europe so I'm using these french nutrients used in beer brewing.

I've downloaded the technical data sheet so I can tell you the ingredients:
- inactivated yeast;
-Zinc sulphate;
- Manganese sulphate;

I would like to compare SpringFerm BR-2 ingredients and Fermaid-K (or O) to understand if this is a good choice for the BOMM.

Thanks!
 

SimPilot

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So after 7 years after this thread started and experiment's final recipe is this ? Or has it take off somewhere else? On another forum or by another user?
 
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loveofrose

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So after 7 years after this thread started and experiment's final recipe is this ? Or has it take off somewhere else? On another forum or by another user?
The link is my website and it is the most current traditional mead recipe. If you peruse a bit longer, my website also has a slew of mead variations, braggots, historical meads and some truly insane brews I’ve done over the years and provided for free. What else did you want?
 

SimPilot

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my website also has a slew of mead variations, braggots, historical meads and some truly insane brews I’ve done over the years and provided for free.
I've scanned this thread and your website, and appreciate the time and effort to write those down while making them available. My previous question is the curiosity of improvement on your knowledge base to even make it better by general public.
Feedback to your website/recipe is to including weight in grams/oz vs "cups/Tbs/tspns". Thank you.
 

Alexcc1

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I am a beekeeper looking to make mead with my honey. I took the time to read all 1,727 posts, many of which I read several times. I have no experience fermenting or brewing other than the two batches of Joe’s Ancient Orange Mead bubbling away on the counter.

I plan to make mead in two-gallon batches by scaling the original BOMM by starting with one Wyeast 1388 smack pack in one gallon then scaling to two gallons a day or two later, basically using the first gallon as a starter.

My plan and nine questions are below.

I know this is a long post, I promise to try to avoid anything like this in the future. Had a little trouble with formatting within the post.



BOMM Recipe - 1 gallon modified for a 2 gallon batch

I bought my ingredients before I finished reading the entire thread, so I don’t have Fermaid-O and I will be using the original recipe.

1. Start with a full 1 gallon Ozarka spring water. (or likely zephyr hills spring water since Ozarka is not sold in my area)

2. Remove 1/2 cup water to compensate for smack pack volume.

3. Draw line on jugs at this water level.

4. Remove an additional 3.2 cups of water from jug (757 ml).

5. Add Orange Blossom honey (or your favorite varietal honey) back to line.

-About 2.5 lbs. SG 1.099ish.

6a. OLD STAGGERED NUTRIENT PROTOCOL

Add 1/4 tsp DAP and 1/2 tsp of Fermaid K.

7. Add 1/4 tsp K2CO3. One time addition in first gallon

8. Shake with the top on until honey is fully dissolved. It will require some effort! You're earning your mead!

9. Add activated Wyeast 1388 yeast smacked for 1-2 hours. Will not exceed 2 hours. Will ake sure the yeast and the must are the same temperature.

10. At or just before the 1.066 break I will pour the first gallon into second gallon of prepared must scaled for a two-gallon batch in a 2 ¼ gallon bucket.

Add an additional 1/4 tsp K2CO3 when scaling up to the second gallon.

Add 1/2 tsp DAP and 1 tsp of Fermaid K

11. At 1.066 & 1.033 gravity Add 1/2 tsp DAP and 1 tsp of Fermaid K. (plan to draw some must and add nutrients to the must then add the must to the 2 gallon bucket.)

-No water in airlock for 7 days after scaling to the second batch or the gravity falls below 1.033. Whichever comes first, add water or vodka to airlock. Ferments dry in 7-14 days.


Questions

  • Q1. Are my nutrient proportions correct when adding the first gallon (starter) to the second gallon? I doubled the nutrients, and added an additional 1/4 tsp K2CO3, for a total of ½ tsp K2CO3 -- (1/4 tsp K2CO3 per gallon).

  • Q2. Plan to keep the mini fridge at 68F then “bump it up to 72 F for the last 20 points.” After the SG drops to 1.000 or stabilizes to something close to 1.000, do I take it out of the fridge? Or do I leave it in until around the 30-day mark?

  • Q3. When I do secondary fermentation does it need to be in the fridge or can I let it come up to room temperature (78F)? I plan ½ gallon with ½ cup of rose petals, ½ gallon with a vanilla bean, ½ gallon with Oak cubes and Vanilla, the remainder will be tradiional. Going to use new ½ gallon mason jars to reduce headspace and allow me to monitor for pressure build up by monitoring to see if the top pops up. Will check daily for ????? weeks.

  • Q4. I thought that I remember a post stating the 1 gallon BOMM now uses 3 lbs for the starting honey and a SG of 1.12 and finishing at 1.01 ish. Any advantage to 3 vs 2.5?

  • Q5. If I start at a SG of 1.12 then my breaks are now 1.08 and 1.04, is this correct?

  • Q6. How long should I use the air pump and stone (stainless steel) in the bottled water to fully oxygenate?

  • Q7. Do I need to stabilize and match temperatures when adding the first gallon (starter) to the second gallon? Is it Okay to allow first gallon to come up to room temperature?

  • Q8. Is it critical/necessary to keep the fermenting must out of the light?

  • Q9. Upon racking off the first batch, I plan to I plan to start another two-gallon batch immediately by pouring must onto the yeast cake. Is this acceptable or should I wash the yeast first using another technique that I found elsewhere on the internet?


If you made it this far, thanks for hanging in there! I appreciate any constructive feedback on my plan, and any feedback on the length of the post.



Cheers!
 

Redpappy

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I have only done 3 batches of BOMM. very little experience. I brew in my basement with no temp control. Ambient Temp stayed around 66 F. Here are a few answers for you that I can give.

Q5 - if my think is right, that would be correct

Q8 - Have no basis, other than I followed the suggestions for brewing On keeping my must out of the light.

Q9 - my last 2 batches were back to back. After I racked of the yeast cake, I mixed my water and honey in one container, then poured into the fermentor of my last batch, swirled the fermentor to get the yeast back into suspension. And proceeded as instructions for day1.

I hope this helps
 

Alexcc1

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I have only done 3 batches of BOMM. very little experience. I brew in my basement with no temp control. Ambient Temp stayed around 66 F. Here are a few answers for you that I can give.

Q5 - if my think is right, that would be correct

Q8 - Have no basis, other than I followed the suggestions for brewing On keeping my must out of the light.

Q9 - my last 2 batches were back to back. After I racked of the yeast cake, I mixed my water and honey in one container, then poured into the fermentor of my last batch, swirled the fermentor to get the yeast back into suspension. And proceeded as instructions for day1.

I hope this helps
That does help. Thank You, especially for reading all the way through the post.

Alex
 
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loveofrose

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Q1.
I would highly suggest you take the time to get Fermaid O before starting. The difference in the final product is staggering. However, simply doubling is fine. Fermaid O can be purchased online from www.morewinemaking.com

1 smack pack will do up to 2.5 gallons just fine. You don’t need a gallon starter until you are making more.

Q2.
Leave it in


Q3.
Keeping the temperature controlled is preferable, but 78 F won’t hurt much after you rack off the yeast cake. I would put air locks on those mason jars. Venting introduces oxygen.

Q4.
Standard BOMM is 1.100 at 2.4 lbs/gallon. If you add 3 lbs/gallon, SG is 1.120 which will still go dry. It will be much stronger (15.7% ABV) and will require something to balance the high ABV such as oak. Wyeast 1388 usually doesn’t exceed 1.120 point, so any additional honey after that makes a sweet mead. I routinely make 1.140 meads that end sweet at 1.020

Q5.
Yes, unless you heed my advice to wait for Fermaid O.

Q6.
Never do this and have never needed to.

Q7.
You want them within 5 degrees of each other. Same is better.

Q8.
I don’t know if it’s critical, but it certainly doesn’t hurt.

Q9.
Yep. That works great for about 5-6 batches depending on your sterile technique.





Cheers!
[/QUOTE]
 

Alexcc1

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Bray,

Thank you for your responses to all of my questions.

I will hold off until I get the Fermaid O, I need to get a temperature controller for the fridge / Kegerator anyway.

I appreciate the info on 2.5 vs 3 lbs of honey, I am still trying to get my head wrapped around ABV and the drop in points of SG during fermentation.

You stated "I would put air locks on those mason jars. Venting introduces oxygen." I thought that oxygen was bad. Is using the airlock similar to the breathing that a wine does through the cork?

Keeping everything at a steady temperature and out of the light just got easier as I just picked up large kegerator (holds 3 x 15 gallon kegs and a couple 7 gallon kegs) for free on craigslist, in addition to 2 x 15.5 gallon kegs and 2 x 7 gallon kegs.

Thanks again Brey, I really appreciate all of the time and effort that went in to all of the information that is in this forum and on your web page.

Alex
 

Branman1986

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Just a data point, I fermented a BOMM at between 85-88 degrees ambient temp and still got unnoticeable levels of fusels and heat on the palate. Very smooth, and had no offensive issues whatsoever. The only problem is I wasn't getting the complexity that I get with using wine yeasts, even when backsweetening.

My problem is that it's easiest for me to ferment in my non air conditioned warehouse, which is now around 80-85(to keep all my honey from crystallizing) and can be 85+ in mid summer, so I love how well the BOMM protocol handles the heat. Is there a way to get some more complexity?

My only other option is to make all the musts and then drive them home and carry them to my basement to ferment and then back when they're finished.

Or just brew like a madman fall to early spring and take a break in the summer? We have a huge industrial heater keeping the warehouse from being too cold in the winter.

TIA!
 

BudNini

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If you are brewing a true BOMM then you are using wyeast 1388.
The temperature range for 1388 is 64-80 F or 18 - 27 C
Brey said the optimal temperature is 68 F
I personally start freeking when my temp hits 76 F
Best of luck ✌
 

Branman1986

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If you are brewing a true BOMM then you are using wyeast 1388.
The temperature range for 1388 is 64-80 F or 18 - 27 C
Brey said the optimal temperature is 68 F
I personally start freeking when my temp hits 76 F
Best of luck ✌
I am following the BOMM protocol to the letter, which would include 1388, just in warm ambient temps. And it is producing mead without any fusels or off flavors even at the high temps.
 

BudNini

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I am following the BOMM protocol to the letter, which would include 1388, just in warm ambient temps. And it is producing mead without any fusels or off flavors even at the high temps.
That’s wonderful,good news indeed. I won’t stress about 76 F
anymore.✌
 

John.R

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Hi All - I have no experience brewing before a month ago. I read through this entire thread twice before attempting my first BOMM. I am very grateful to Bray and all the contributors. I started it on August 17 and racked it yesterday. I followed the recipe exactly using the "new staggered nutrient protocol" and summer (mostly clover) honey from our hives. I used a smack pack of the Wyeast 1388. The starting S.G. was 1.099, and the final gravity (just above 1.000) was stable for about two weeks. It tastes great! After racking it yesterday, I pitched the remaining yeast slurry from the bottom of the carboy into a new batch. The only differences between batches that I can identify is that the specific gravity was slightly higher (about 1.100) and I mistakenly added 0.5tsp of the potassium bicarbonate instead of 0.25tsp. About 12+ hours later, there doesn't seem to be any activity (no obvious bubbling; same S.G.). This wasn't the case with the first batch. Any advice on what went wrong or what to do next? I do have another pack of Wyeast 1388 in the refrigerator.

Thanks in advance!

John
 

DarkPorpoise

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screenshot33.jpg


This the progress since Sunday evening of my BOMM using Lallemand Abbaye dry yeast packs. Seems to be a steady performer!

I'm using an iSpindel to report gravity and I haven't got it calibrated quite right. OG was actually 1.113. The lines are pretty though.
 

HogFather

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If I wanted to add inclusions for flavor, when would I do this? Since this mead is ready sooner, would I still add them after primary fermentation or would I do it in the beginning?
 

Dan O

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Look at comment #49 on page 5 of this thread. Loveofrose already did it. If you want your mead tasting like beer go ahead. Otherwise Wyeast 1388 is the only yeast to use for this if you want it tasting like mead. But if you're fine with this not being a BOMM knock yourself out. Otherwise, for $6 for the Wyeast 1388, do it right. Did I say that?
Yep, you did😂
 

SimPilot

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Meh! First time making BOMM. 5 gallons recipe. Mistakenly added 1 tps of DAP vs GoFerm into starter. Then added 1/2 tsp of GoFerm just for fks sake. Not to self - don't listen to interesting lectures while making booze.
 

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I have some of the African forest honey I found here on HTB. Has anyone done a BOMM with this honey and how did it turn out? Also, how many pounds of honey (or OG) does it take to get a semi sweet mead using 1388 without stabilizing and back-sweetening? I'm doing a 2 gal batch. Thanks :mug:
 

Dan O

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After I started this, I realized that I didn't have any Fermaid K, (but, I did have a yeast nutrient, which worked out just fine). My 3 gallon BOMM is almost done. Just waiting for it to clear a little on its own before I rack it off of the lees & into smaller vessels for experiments with different flavors & sweetness levels. I'm loving this hobby!😎
 
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Alexcc1

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New guy question. I am making a 5 gallon BOMM. It is proceeding slowly. Starting Gravity was 1.096 on 9 Oct 2020. Today, 18 Oct 2020 the gravity reading is 1.014 (a six point change from yesterday). I have been degassing once daily since starting.

My question is: How long should I continue degassing? Once daily until secondary fermentation, or should I stop sometime sooner?

Part of why I am asking is because when I degassed today, on day 9 and there is still a lot of gas when I degassed.

Thoughts?
 

cmac62

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New guy question. I am making a 5 gallon BOMM. It is proceeding slowly. Starting Gravity was 1.096 on 9 Oct 2020. Today, 18 Oct 2020 the gravity reading is 1.014 (a six point change from yesterday). I have been degassing once daily since starting.

My question is: How long should I continue degassing? Once daily until secondary fermentation, or should I stop sometime sooner?

Part of why I am asking is because when I degassed today, on day 9 and there is still a lot of gas when I degassed.

Thoughts?
Alex, if I remember correctly you are supposed to degas and no water in the airlock through the 1/3 break, then you fill the airlock and ferment as usual with adding the second Fermaid 0 at 2/3 break. If I got this wrong someone please correct. :mug:

Edit: I answered my own question by checking on Brey's site. Here is what it said concerning the airlock: " -No water in airlock for 7 days or the gravity falls below 1.033. Whichever comes first, add water or vodka to airlock. Ferments dry in 7-14 days. " I hope this helps.
 
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Alexcc1

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I saw that line 11 in the 5 gallon BOMM instructions states " 11. Degas daily. ". but it does not state when to stop degassing.
I was planning to degas until the 30 day point or 1 week of stable SG readings.......... unless someone tells me otherwise.
Alex
 
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SimPilot

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@loveofrose

I want to make 5 gallons of cyser. I found your one gallon recipe. It seems very similar to 5 gallon BOMM Do you think I can just follow your 5 gallon recipe and it will be good to go? While increasing 5 x of steps 3 and 4;
3. Add 2.4 oz dark brown sugar, 1.6 oz dates, and 1.33 cups orange blossom honey.
4. Add 1/2 tsp pectinase.
 
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Alexcc1

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@SimPilot

I was also thinking of making a 6 gallon batch of cyser by scaling everything linearly. I chose 6 gallons because I have a 6.5 gallon fermentation bucket that I plan to rack into a 6 gallon carboy and finally into a 5 gallon corny keg. I expect to lose some during racking, but hope to have at least something close to 5 gallons when it goes into the corney.

I won't use a starter because I plan to use the yeast cake that resulted from a 6 gallon BOMM that I have in the brew chamber now.

I hope that someone else chimes in since I am seasoned small scale beekeeper with plenty of honey but just a newbie mazer.

Alex
 

SimPilot

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I am at the 25 day point with my first BOMM. It tastes like beer. Is this normal?
I'm about 30ish days and it tastes like watered-down mead. I'm used to 14ish % and this is about 10-12ish ABV. Doesn't taste like beer though. But it is drinkable, and smell and taste of honey is very strong compared to my prior experiments. Another big unfortunate issue to me ... honey taste had a bit of "burned" aftertaste (morarch honey) and it transferred to the mead perfectly. Now I'm in the process of adding cranberries in an attempt to coverup the less-than-desired taste.
 

SimPilot

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I won't use a starter because I plan to use the yeast cake that resulted from a 6 gallon BOMM that I have in the brew chamber now.
I'm interested in how that would turn out. I've never used yeast cake... waiting for a local beer shop to deliver wy1388 for my cyser. Local farm delivered 5 gallons (8$/gallon) of amazingly good cider without any additions. So clear and so tasty.
 

Alexcc1

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I'm interested in how that would turn out. I've never used yeast cake... waiting for a local beer shop to deliver wy1388 for my cyser. Local farm delivered 5 gallons (8$/gallon) of amazingly good cider without any additions. So clear and so tasty.
I asked about reusing the yeast on this thread; just a bit up the page in post 1728. Love of Roses replied in post 1731 that the yeast cake can be reused 5-6 times " depending on your sterile technique "

I don't know that I'll reuse the cake if the BOMM tastes like beer when I rack it.
 

SimPilot

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east cake can be reused 5-6 times
Just used yeast cake from BOMM into BoMM-cyser. OG 1.095. 15 hrs later it's at 1.085. So it's working. No idea if there will be after taste or off-flavor.
 

Alexcc1

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Just used yeast cake from BOMM into BoMM-cyser. OG 1.095. 15 hrs later it's at 1.085. So it's working. No idea if there will be after taste or off-flavor.
I am definitely a new mazer, but 10 points in 15 hours seems impressive to me. Those yeastie beasties are alive and well. You'll have to keep us posted on how it progresses and turns out. I am still interested in using my yeast cake as long as my mead doesn't taste like beer.
 

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I did one using the Wild African Honey from the thread on HTB. It is coming close to a month and it smells like honey, but the taste is ok. I'm not sure I like mead. It is very thin/no body and basically tastes like a week wine-ish. Next I'm going to sorbate and back sweeten it with the same honey. Is there any way to add to the mouth feel without altering the flavor? :mug:
 

Maylar

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I did one using the Wild African Honey from the thread on HTB. It is coming close to a month and it smells like honey, but the taste is ok. I'm not sure I like mead. It is very thin/no body and basically tastes like a week wine-ish. Next I'm going to sorbate and back sweeten it with the same honey. Is there any way to add to the mouth feel without altering the flavor? :mug:
Yes, but kinda late now:

Opti-White | MoreWine
 

cmac62

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Maylar, thanks for the response, what do you think about using some lactose when I sorbate and back sweeten? I know it will change the flavor, but perhaps it will be minor and add the mouth feel im looking for.
 

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Maylar, thanks for the response, what do you think about using some lactose when I sorbate and back sweeten? I know it will change the flavor, but perhaps it will be minor and add the mouth feel im looking for.
LoveOfRoses has a website www.denardbrewing.com . On his site he did an experiment with Glycerin to add mouth feel. Here is the link to the Glycerin experiment Denard Brewing

This is a quote from his experiment
" Overall, the glycerin additions improve the overall mouthfeel and balance of the acidity of the mead. Dry mead is so thin that the max addition is needed for balance, but sweet meads would likely need less. I highly suggest a bench trial (like above) before adding to a full batch. The surprising result is that glycerin addition balances tartness. This fact is useful in the case of over-zealous acid blend additions! "

I plan to try it on my first BOMM when it is finished in a few days.

Alex
 
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