BoilCoil or Ripple Element?

[0080]

So, I'm getting ready to move over to eBIAB. I'm leaning towards getting the Wort Hog EBC-130 for my controller.

But what I'm going back and forth on is my element choice. I have no TC fitting on my kettles (15 and 20 gallon) for a Ripple element, so no matter my choice, holes will need to be made.

The good I see with the BoilCoil is I can keep the bag in contact with the coil if heat is needed to keep the mash at temp, or recirculate if I please. And, I can install myself. The bad is that it's always in there.

The ripple needs TC soldered on (don't want the weldless and I'd leave the soldering part up to Brew Hardware) and a false bottom. But it's something that's removable for cleaning and if I want to brew on the road with propane.

So, what say the masses?

 

[augiedoggy]

its all on what you want.. does the boil coil come out for easy cleaning? it is lower watt density which is good but theres no evidence that in this case when comparing with a ripple, that it makes any difference. if you use it againt a bag you can still get localized boiling if you dont have good recirculation around the element. my guess is it would be a bit less likely to scorch. that said I like that the tc based ripples are plentiful and avaliable from multiple vendors starting at around $20 each and going from there.. with the boil coil you have a proprietary thing and rely on one company for support and replacements.

I use the tc based elements with both weldless and welded fittings and no issues with either here.. I use brewhardwares weldless fitting and havent had to touch it since installation.

 

[tmendick]

I like my boil coil, all in it was a bit cheaper than going TC and Ripple for me.
I have started to use my wilserbag without a basket/false bottom with the boil coil and haven't seen any signs of damage to the bag over the last 5 brews including some step mashing. I don't know that I would want to rest the bag directly if the element was on full bore, but that hasn't been a concern for me.

Also the boil coil is weldless FYI

 

[biertourist]

Hop separation, and trub separation to lesser degree, are the features that will make you tear your hair out (if it's bad) or just never have to think about it (if it's good), in a boil kettle. OVER engineer for easy hop / trub separation in your kettle, IMHO.

I am a huge advocate for whirlpool-capable kettles -to ease hop/ trub separation, but also to aid chilling (improved performance with an immersion chiller; ability to recirculated whole batch chilling with a counterflow chiller).

Round elements like the Blichmann Boil Coil / SSBrewTech "Halo" elements are FAR superior to both ripple and low watt density folded-over electric elements in whirlpool kettles. -If you ever think you MIGHT whirlpool, that's a huge extra point for the Blichmann Boil Coil.



If you go with an SSVR-based electric brewery controller and a Blichmann Boil Coil you'll essentially eliminate melting / scortching your BIAB bag as you won't get the temp swings you'll get with an SSR. See what SSBrewTech is doing here: https://www.ssbrewtech.com/pages/electric-brewing


Adam

 

[biertourist]

Hey, I'm off the forum for like 4 or 5 years and the second I come back I see an auggiedoggie post and his updated electric control panel. -Like old times again! ;-)


-I finally broke down and just moved from the SwitchCraft / Neutrik connectors and shelled out the $$ for NEMA plugs and moved my thermo probes to XLR. ($250 worth of cables and connectors later... UGH!)


Adam

 

[augiedoggy]

Hey, I'm off the forum for like 4 or 5 years and the second I come back I see an auggiedoggie post and his updated electric control panel. -Like old times again! ;-)


-I finally broke down and just moved from the SwitchCraft / Neutrik connectors and shelled out the $$ for NEMA plugs and moved my thermo probes to XLR. ($250 worth of cables and connectors later... UGH!)


Adam

Valid points above..
a lots changed man, even the panel in my avatar is old news.. I use brucontrol now. I had failures in those neutrik connectors as soon as I went to 5500w from 4500w..

Heres where I do my brewing these days.. (BTW we use 5500w ripples here... 4 in each kettle and two cartridge heaters for the rims.)

 

[tmendick]

How tf is that still "homebrewing"?

 

[augiedoggy]

How tf is that still "homebrewing"?

Im using recipes we created at home and just scaled up to a larger version of the system.
Truthfully? at this size The process has more in common with homebrewing then the process larger breweries use just larger kettles. Besides I could say the same about many automated home brewing systems and machines.. There are also a lot of "homebrewers" here making hundreds of gallons of beer a year here and it aint for personal consumption... The line is really pretty blurry. yes im technically not homebrewing because its for a nanobrewpub im opening but its still relevant at this level.

 

[Blazinlow86]

Imho homebrew only means beer brewed at home. That's it. Batch size, system all that doesn't change that. Additional I feel there's "pro" homebrewers who generally are trying to make perfect beer that a large audience enjoys and would score high in a competition and there are "hobby" homebrewers who generally are trying to make beer that they like and aren't worried about anything else. cheers

 

[augiedoggy]

Imho homebrew only means beer brewed at home. That's it. Batch size, system all that doesn't change that. Additional I feel there's "pro" homebrewers who generally are trying to make perfect beer that a large audience enjoys and would score high in a competition and there are "hobby" homebrewers who generally are trying to make beer that they like and aren't worried about anything else. cheers

True but we can categorize and scrutinize all day really.... .. You folks at one extreme using a mr beer kit and those malting thier own grain and growing their own hops.. At the end of the day all of us here enjoy brewing beer and thats the point right?
I havent sold a single beer yet, (not that it matters one way or the other since im not trying to profit from anyone here (and vendors that do who homebrew dont get questioned about it as far as I can tell right?)

I never went to brewing college and got my "Professional brewers license" or whatever.. In my eyes ill always be a homebrewer. Whether or not I brewed my last batch of beer in my basement, garage, friends home or at a building I rent or own really doesnt relate to the information I take and give to this forum from others and for others who enjoy the same hobby as me... At the end of the day I'm just one of the many here that are turning my hobby into a part time job.. In relation to the question asked in this thread I use ripple 5500w elements in both my home brewing system and the one pictured above.. they work well and I believe they have advantages of thier own and depending on setup each has advantages that would make it a better choice in those configurations. just my opinion your free to disregard it..

 

[DarkNoonBrewer]

You will not get the same low watt density as the boil coil with water heating elements. I have seen scorch marks at the tip of those. The ripple elements seem to be bent too tight and push the wire towards the outside and create hot spots. I bet its not a problem in a water heater, but with wort its kinda an issue. I have some of the first boil coils an haven't had a reason to unbolt em yet. They work every time, all the time. They also come with a cord and all the mounting hardware saving some coin as you have already mentioned.

 

[Blazinlow86]

True but we can categorize and scrutinize all day really.... .. You folks at one extreme using a mr beer kit and those malting thier own grain and growing their own hops.. At the end of the day all of us here enjoy brewing beer and thats the point right?
I havent sold a single beer yet, (not that it matters one way or the other since im not trying to profit from anyone here (and vendors that do who homebrew dont get questioned about it as far as I can tell right?)

I never went to brewing college and got my "Professional brewers license" or whatever.. In my eyes ill always be a homebrewer. Whether or not I brewed my last batch of beer in my basement, garage, friends home or at a building I rent or own really doesnt relate to the information I take and give to this forum from others and for others who enjoy the same hobby as me... At the end of the day I'm just one of the many here that are turning my hobby into a part time job.. In relation to the question asked in this thread I use ripple 5500w elements in both my home brewing system and the one pictured above.. they work well and I believe they have advantages of thier own and depending on setup each has advantages that would make it a better choice in those configurations. just my opinion your free to disregard it..

Sorry I meant to quote tmeasdick and his reply of that still being "homebrew". Were on the same page as all being homebrewers. Just because someone has a full commercial style setup at home and followers commercialish processes doesn't make them less a homebrew than someone that's just using biab or extract. It often just means there going for a higher grade end product that's appealing to a larger amount of people. Nothing wrong with only being concerned with making beer you enjoy just as there isnt anything wrong with trying to make a beer everyone enjoys. As long as it's made at home it's homebrew. Cheers

 

[tmendick]

It was a joke about batch size that looks bigger than some breweries I've been to, calm down.

that's why there was a little smiley at the end.

 

[Blazinlow86]

It was a joke about batch size that looks bigger than some breweries I've been to, calm down.

that's why there was a little smiley at the end.

Sorry if it came off as I was fired up as I'm not at all. It's often hard to tell when reading text. Cheers

 

[augiedoggy]

It was a joke about batch size that looks bigger than some breweries I've been to, calm down.

that's why there was a little smiley at the end.

Its all good.. I didnt think I responded in an exiting manner to your comment. The smiley face doesnt always mean a persons kidding and the swearing before it kind of implied the opposite so I couldnt tell if you were or weren't actually asking what, well you were asking.. lol sometimes its tough to understand the tone of thread comments.. I was just giving my point of view and tried to keep it at that.

just to be clear the photo is not of my homebrewing setup.. thats in my build thread. (only 15 gallon kettles)
this is a 3bbl setup I put together for a nano brewpub I am partners on starting with another homebrewer friend.

 

[augiedoggy]

You will not get the same low watt density as the boil coil with water heating elements. I have seen scorch marks at the tip of those. The ripple elements seem to be bent too tight and push the wire towards the outside and create hot spots. I bet its not a problem in a water heater, but with wort its kinda an issue. I have some of the first boil coils an haven't had a reason to unbolt em yet. They work every time, all the time. They also come with a cord and all the mounting hardware saving some coin as you have already mentioned.

Maybe some ripples are different than others but Ive been using many of them for a long time and have yet to have any scorching on them myself. I did scorch a beer once with a higher density rims element so im very aware of what it looks and tastes like when it happens unfortunately. The only generally known circumstances when the ripples can cause scorching is when the element is turned off for a period of time and protiens settle on top of the element and then its turned back on later burning those protiens to the surface of the element. Also in circumstances of localised boiling like under a bag in biab. Lower watt density is still better for easier cleanup and the boil coil is likely easier to keep clean. but then again they arent as easily removed.

 

[kyt]

I have (2) of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
5500w fold-back ripple
Originally I bought a pair with my Spike kettles, but I had the cords swapped and dry fired one.. ugh
So I bought the one in that link as a replacement. It looks exactly like the ones that came from Spike.
Everything is all contained inside, no soldering, just clamp it on, and plug it in.

I would never ever set a bag on any element. I don't care what watt density or shape it is. There's always a chance you could burn the bag, and lose the whole batch. Not worth it IMO
My system is setup as eHERMS. One element in the boil kettle, and the other in the HLT. Nothing mash related ever directly touches an element (until it goes in the kettle).

 

[nesbit6363]

So, I'm getting ready to move over to eBIAB. I'm leaning towards getting the Wort Hog EBC-130 for my controller.

But what I'm going back and forth on is my element choice. I have no TC fitting on my kettles (15 and 20 gallon) for a Ripple element, so no matter my choice, holes will need to be made.

The good I see with the BoilCoil is I can keep the bag in contact with the coil if heat is needed to keep the mash at temp, or recirculate if I please. And, I can install myself. The bad is that it's always in there.

The ripple needs TC soldered on (don't want the weldless and I'd leave the soldering part up to Brew Hardware) and a false bottom. But it's something that's removable for cleaning and if I want to brew on the road with propane.

So, what say the masses?

What element did u end up going with? I’m in the same boat I’m building a EBIAB system and hate to drill into a new kettle but I really like the BoilCoil.

 

[0080]

What element did u end up going with? I’m in the same boat I’m building a EBIAB system and hate to drill into a new kettle but I really like the BoilCoil.

So, I believe I'm going with the TC ripple.

Going to contact Bobby and set up a time for him to mod my kettles as soon as I get a controller.

 

[0080]

I went and visited Bobby at Brew Hardware today. While there, he modified three of my kettles, installing triclover ferrules for ripple elements and holes for temp sensors.

His work, as well as his hardware, is top notch.

Thanks Bobby!

 

[tmendick]

I have started to use my wilserbag without a basket/false bottom with the boil coil and haven't seen any signs of damage to the bag over the last 5 brews including some step mashing. I don't know that I would want to rest the bag directly if the element was on full bore, but that hasn't been a concern for me.

Finally got a hole burnt in the bag, been probably 20+ batches since the last post. This one was about 24# total of grain, included about 14# of Flaked Wheat, which to be honest, I think made a bigger difference than the total weight. I don't want to buy new bags to "test" this theory.

It also didnt help that it was a step mash going from 122 to 158 so the element was running at 100% for a bit.

 

[Cato1507]

Finally got a hole burnt in the bag, been probably 20+ batches since the last post. This one was about 24# total of grain, included about 14# of Flaked Wheat, which to be honest, I think made a bigger difference than the total weight. I don't want to buy new bags to "test" this theory.

It also didnt help that it was a step mash going from 122 to 158 so the element was running at 100% for a bit.

I'm using the Brew Bag with a Boil Coil and the Brew Commander. I do have the bag contacting the coils during mash but I'm also whirlpooling the entire time.

I'm just doing 4-5 gal batches and running the 3750w Boil Coil, so hopefully the bag will last.

 

[Hoptimus Prime]

I'm using the Brew Bag with a Boil Coil and the Brew Commander. I do have the bag contacting the coils during mash but I'm also whirlpooling the entire time.

I'm just doing 4-5 gal batches and running the 3750w Boil Coil, so hopefully the bag will last.

Hi Cato,

What are your thoughts on the BrewCommander? I am planning on grabbing one in the next few days but there isn't much reviews on it yet, looks great though.

Cheers!

 

[Cato1507]

Hi Cato,

What are your thoughts on the BrewCommander? I am planning on grabbing one in the next few days but there isn't much reviews on it yet, looks great though.

Cheers!

I'm new to controllers and they're so many out there, but this one fits the bill for me and my single vessel BIAB brewing.

Plug and play, easy to use touchscreen and I like that it uses digital keypad rather than scrolling up down buttons.

I'm sure there's probably more sophisticated controllers out there for those running more involved equipment, but that would be overkill for me.
Just takes a couple minutes to set up and start brewing and it's accurate and fun to use. No brainer for me.