processhead
Well-Known Member
Great R&D effort guys!
Keep up the beta testing.
Keep up the beta testing.
Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed
- Thread starter BrunDog
- Start date
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jonny_5
Active Member
Been following this thread for a while now, and finally decided to go ahead and build one of these and try it out. I went with the 1.5" TC setup off the side of the kettle and the 6 GPH nozzle.
All the parts arrived and did the water test last week, and was getting 0.75 gallons per hour boil off.
Brewed up a 3 gallon test batch of a dark mild on Saturday and everything went great! Hit all my numbers and the condenser was 100% effective at eliminating the steam. Looking forward to tasting the results in a couple weeks!
All the parts arrived and did the water test last week, and was getting 0.75 gallons per hour boil off.
Brewed up a 3 gallon test batch of a dark mild on Saturday and everything went great! Hit all my numbers and the condenser was 100% effective at eliminating the steam. Looking forward to tasting the results in a couple weeks!
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enormous13
Well-Known Member
For some reason, it took me way too long to think of this question for the group, but:
Would I be able to use one TC fitting on the kettle to use this condenser during boil and then remove it, replace with a TC whirlpool arm for the last bit of the boil to sanitize, and then whirlpool through chilling.
-OR-
Would you just get two TC fittings for your kettle, one for both the condenser and the whirlpool?
Would I be able to use one TC fitting on the kettle to use this condenser during boil and then remove it, replace with a TC whirlpool arm for the last bit of the boil to sanitize, and then whirlpool through chilling.
-OR-
Would you just get two TC fittings for your kettle, one for both the condenser and the whirlpool?
I think a dual use port is too complex. Hose change outside, then you need a tc flange on the inside too onto which the whirlpool would attach.
OP
OP
Agreed!
enormous13
Well-Known Member
enormous13
Well-Known Member
So, @BrunDog put together an item list with links much earlier in this thread for his 2" version, but I was hoping to help anyone looking to put together the 1.5" TC version of this, as I'm compiling this order right now. @Dockside_Brewing linked his build somewhere along the way too using 1.5" components.
Excited to get this put together, ordered, and begin using it!
EDIT: Thanks @Spartan1979 for help on that last part. I plugged it in with link and adjusted price.
EDIT: Opted to plug in a 1-1/8" nipple based upon the conversation below, pics included.
EDIT: Changed back to Spartan's part lol.
- 1.5" Weldless TC Flange - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm
- 1.5" TC Clamp (x3) - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15clamp.htm
- 1.5" TC Gasket (x3) - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15gk.htm
- 1.5" TC Coupling - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15f12nptdouble.htm
- 1.5" TC x 5/8" Barb - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15hb58.htm
- 1.5" TC Instrument Tee - https://www.brewershardware.com/1_5-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Instrument-Tee-TC15TEE-SL.html
- 6 Gallon Nozzle - https://www.mcmaster.com/#3178k46/=1b1mr7g
- 9 Gallon Nozzle - https://www.mcmaster.com/#3178k47/=1aftzdi
- 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT Reducer - https://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k523/=1afu3te
- 1/2" NPT x 1.5" Nipple - https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830k172/=1b2gr77
- Total Cost (Pre-Shipping): $130.24
Excited to get this put together, ordered, and begin using it!
EDIT: Thanks @Spartan1979 for help on that last part. I plugged it in with link and adjusted price.
EDIT: Opted to plug in a 1-1/8" nipple based upon the conversation below, pics included.
EDIT: Changed back to Spartan's part lol.
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1/2" NPT x 1.5" Nipple https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830k172/=1b2gr77
2.5 inches is too long.
Dockside Brewing gave this to me.
2.5 inches is too long.
Dockside Brewing gave this to me.
Thedutchtouch
Well-Known Member
would a 2 inch version work instead of 2.5 inch? https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-NPT-Stainless-Pipe-Nipple-2-OAL.html 3 dollars.
edit: too slow
edit: too slow
enormous13
Well-Known Member
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
Delete, incorrect info.
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ingchr1
Well-Known Member
Here's how mine sits using a Hex Nipple:
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OP
OP
That looks good. You want the nozzle as high as possible without spraying out the side entry port.
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
Delete, incorrect info
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BudgetBrewer
Well-Known Member
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So those nozzels do spray pretty much downward? Moreso than horizontal?
OP
OP
I think about a 90 degree spread, so 45 off the vertical centerline. That’s strictly a guess though. IIRC the spec is listed at McMaster-Carr.
enormous13
Well-Known Member
80 degree cone on the McMaster sprays.
@ingchr1 Seems like that's a good height with the 1 inch nipple, did you get any of the spray going into the branch off of the tee?
OP
OP
The real key is to maximize the volume of area that the cone sprays in to increase its exposure to steam. Theoretically, as the pipe gets narrower, so should the cone as you don’t want to just water down the pipe’s walls. Of course we use what we can get off the shelf, but just reminding everyone the goal with respect to the sprayer patterns.
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
Here's the spray:
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If I may ask, where did you find the flex pipe. I can only find 20' lengths and it's expensive. My google fu skills must be low today.
enormous13
Well-Known Member
Thank you for going out of your way to get that picture, I think I will shorten up the nipple like you did. I found a 1-1/8" long on McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830K171), which is the shortest I could find on there. I'll add this to the list above as well in case anyone else is interested in the shorter option.
@BrunDog thanks for that reminder. So if we could find an "atomizer" spray with an angle/cone less than the current 80 degrees we'd perhaps increase our efficiency/effectiveness?
I'm sure you looked at all the various options for sprayers, but what're your thoughts on something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/#32885k711/=1b2x7ds or https://www.mcmaster.com/#4759T14
The first is a full cone spray nozzle, the gph would come out to 12-15, but the spray angle is down to 60*, and it's about the same price as the original nozzles. The second is a "fogging nozzle" which apparently gives an even finer mist, gph is 7-12 (40/100 psi), the spray angle goes up a tad to 90*, and the price jumps to $30 for the nozzle.
EDIT: Added nozzle links
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ingchr1
Well-Known Member
They'll also be available at most any of the online shops. The nipple I used was from a weldless bulkhead.
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
It's a 20" Vibrant Performance Flexible Interlock Hose. I ordered it from Summit, $20. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-84027).
Ordered. Thank you.
I want to switch to electric brewing and move indoors. I'm seriously considering a Brew Boss to make this happen. I have two sources for 220:
Basement Laundry room. Pros are access to water, possibly a drain (piggy back off the washing machine drain line), vent (piggy back off of the dryer vent), easy to attach a lifting winch to the ceiling. Cons are that it's cramped an aesthetically not pleasing (near the kitty litter, lots of storage crap, etc.)
Kitchen. Pros: not much other than a much nicer environment. I can't access the water from the kitchen sink because I have a sprayer faucet. I can't really use the stove vent because it's just filtered....doesn't go outside due to vaulted ceilings. The only drain option is to drain down the sink. There's no good way to set up a winch unless I create a brew structure.
You guys are all creative. Any ideas how to make this happen in the kitchen?
Basement Laundry room. Pros are access to water, possibly a drain (piggy back off the washing machine drain line), vent (piggy back off of the dryer vent), easy to attach a lifting winch to the ceiling. Cons are that it's cramped an aesthetically not pleasing (near the kitty litter, lots of storage crap, etc.)
Kitchen. Pros: not much other than a much nicer environment. I can't access the water from the kitchen sink because I have a sprayer faucet. I can't really use the stove vent because it's just filtered....doesn't go outside due to vaulted ceilings. The only drain option is to drain down the sink. There's no good way to set up a winch unless I create a brew structure.
You guys are all creative. Any ideas how to make this happen in the kitchen?
ancientmariner52
Well-Known Member
Do you own this home? If so, the smart move, in my opinion, would be to upgrade the basement until it meets your needs. I've done kitchen brewing, and to my mind it's a last resort.
Thedutchtouch
Well-Known Member
you can add a tee to your water supply line right after the shut off valve under the sink, throw another shut off valve valve on one end of the the tee output, the other goes directly to the sink as normal, and presto, you have somewhere to connect a brewery line hidden under the sink, only downside is you'll have to brew with the under-sink cabinet door slightly open to snake the hose/line/whatever you connect out. easy to remove if you move, just shut off the main valve, remove the tee/valve, and re-connect the sink line as it was before.
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
@enormous13 looks like I made a mistake, what I used was not 1" as I thought. I used one of these that I had: 1/2" Hex Nipple. Length isn't listed on this one but the one I have is 1 5/8". I'd imagine they're probably a standard length give or take?
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enormous13
Well-Known Member
So it's actually longer than the 1.5" nipple, but sits the nozzle a tad higher in the tee?? Lol how'd that one work out? Thanks for giving me the heads up though.
ingchr1
Well-Known Member
No idea, I must have tried a 2 1/2" at first.
OP
OP
The first sprayer looks good. I should probably get one to compare. I don’t think it has a filter up front, so that would need to be added unless you are certain your supply is 100% particle free (hint: it usually isn’t unless the supply went through a softener). The fogging type may also work but would have to be tested.
Theoretically the nozzle which produces the highest temp waste per same flow rate is the best one.
enormous13
Well-Known Member
Now that you mention the filter (which is listed on the misters), I'm noticing it is not listed on either of those links that I gave, so I'd imagine they don't have any filters built in. Oh well, no biggie, why mess with something that works perfectly well already. Thanks BrunDog
OP
OP
Well the 60 degree unit might be better. You definitely want full cone in any event. I’ll pick one up and compare. I also selected the SS units because I don’t have any brass in the brewery, though this has no contact with the wort.
I noticed the flow rates on this one are in GPM, which means at 40 psi you will use 12 GPH. At my 60+ psi, I would consume over 15 GPH. Still curious how it works out if you get one, maybe it's worth the extra H2O consumption.
OP
OP
Good point. I just glanced at the 20psi number. My pressure is closer to 30 (I think). Some are much higher, so you are right that it would be a lot higher volume of waste water.
It seems like with the addition of a needle valve (and maybe a pressure gauge) you could regulate the pressure at the nozzle. That would allow you to find a balance between water use and discharge temp.
OP
OP
Flow control is not really the right way to regulate pressure but it may work well enough if enough adjustment range. A pressure regulator is mo betta.
I was thinking of using a pressure regulator also, the same type used in drip irrigation. Water rates in my area are outrageous and every L (GAL) saved not going down the drain makes sense. Regulators are available in various fixed pressure rates.
Something like this
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20-PSI-Drip...hash=item3cd83954b4:m:m1Mi7zEA5wyaYsx3U8QgQxA
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