I have a blichmann burner with a natural gas conversion kit. I linked the burner to the natural gas coming in from the wall and I made sure to use the smaller 1/8" aperture hex nipple into the burner itself that came with the conversion kit (the default hex connection for propane is larger).
However, the burner still burns incredibly low. The natural gas coming from the wall is 7" water column, which should be suitable for the burner. After trying several settings, nothing works. If I turn it on full blast, the burners all go out, but it never shows a good burn. The highest burner tip I can get is maybe about 1/4", if I blow on them they go out.
I split the gas line with a T-connector to bring the gas to where I need it. Might that because the pressure to drop further? One line goes to the dryer, which is always on because wife, the split line goes to the burner but I added a ball valve I can turn on and off by the wall (as well as another ball valve near the burner in addition to the more finely adjustable valve with the converter kit).
What I don't quite understand is why the NG conversion kit's valve would reduce to a 3/8" male flare entering the valve, then increase back to 1/2" (I have 1/2" coming all the way to the valve) only to drop to what looks like 1/4" then the 1/8" pinhole. The reductions I understand (to increase pressure), but why would they increase to 1/2" before dropping down again, seems a bit nuts.
Anyone else have or had this problem and know a good solution?
However, the burner still burns incredibly low. The natural gas coming from the wall is 7" water column, which should be suitable for the burner. After trying several settings, nothing works. If I turn it on full blast, the burners all go out, but it never shows a good burn. The highest burner tip I can get is maybe about 1/4", if I blow on them they go out.
I split the gas line with a T-connector to bring the gas to where I need it. Might that because the pressure to drop further? One line goes to the dryer, which is always on because wife, the split line goes to the burner but I added a ball valve I can turn on and off by the wall (as well as another ball valve near the burner in addition to the more finely adjustable valve with the converter kit).
What I don't quite understand is why the NG conversion kit's valve would reduce to a 3/8" male flare entering the valve, then increase back to 1/2" (I have 1/2" coming all the way to the valve) only to drop to what looks like 1/4" then the 1/8" pinhole. The reductions I understand (to increase pressure), but why would they increase to 1/2" before dropping down again, seems a bit nuts.
Anyone else have or had this problem and know a good solution?